Stobes21

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    St. Louis, MO
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture

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  1. Around me red oak is cheap, reasonably hard for a tabletop, and stains and finishes well.
  2. I made Marc's toy box for last year's woodworkers fighting cancer build out of leftover unfinished red oak boards from when I put some in my house. Worked fine for that since I didn't need wide boards and the grooves could all be faced in. Of course, that was pretty much a bunch of frame and panels with chalkboard ply as the panels. Other types of furniture would be hard. But there are some definite options: rails and stiles (as mentioned above) drawer stock (mill grooves out and you have ~1/2" thickness), may have to glue up a couple for wider drawer sides Picture frames small boxes lay some down on top of 3/4" ply for countertops on shop cabinets story sticks/spacer boards rip a 45* angle and use for french cleats
  3. I've done BLO under Arm-r-seal and I've done shellac under it, but never both. The BLO I've done as a way to pore fill. Just wet sand the BLO with a fine grit wet dry paper and then wipe off the excess slurry. After the BLO has plenty of time to dry I sand lightly and apply arm-r-seal for a nice protective finish. In this instance the BLO (or Danish oil works the same for this purpose) isn't there for color but rather as a medium for the pore filling process. And I particularly like a thin coat of garnet shellac under Arm-r-seal on walnut. It warms up the wood nicely without obscuring the grain. And it seals the wood nicely so the arm-r-seal starts to build immediately and the piece overall requires fewer coats.
  4. http://www.woodfinder.com/listings/012869.php I should add that I got those boards fresh out of a new batch. They have always had nice walnut boards every time I've been but those were exceptional.
  5. I have a place where I can find nice wide boards with minimal or no sap. So that's rarely an issue for me. Unless a knot or other defect is really gnarly I try to stabilize it and include it. This is from my last walnut project. Fresh off the planer. Either 5/4 or 6/4, I don't actually remember.
  6. Bed bolts work well but require a hole in the headboard and footboard. Or get bed rail brackets from rockler/woodcraft.
  7. I seriously doubt most of those home made tools come out costing much less than a decent used machine would. For example you can get used 14" bandsaws on craigslist pretty much any time for a couple hundred bucks. No way you could get all the materials, wheels, bearings, and a decent motor (plus other stuff I'm not thinking of) for much less than that. Not to mention all the time you'd spend building it instead of just building the projects you want to build. Now, if that's what you want to build then go for it. But if you want to build furniture then just build furniture. You can build nice stuff with very limited tools and slowly save up for the bigger machines while watching for good deals. About the only major tool I'd say makes sense to build is a router table. There are plenty of good designs online and in the major woodworking magazines.
  8. I keep a deck of playing cards around for shims and find them very useful. Cheap, easily available, and glue doesn't stick to them. But for what you're doing why don't you try hot gluing the board to your sled? The glue will match the exact thickness you need, dries nice and hard, and will make sure the board doesn't rock. After you're done it'll pop right off with a scraper.
  9. I did a table a while back with knock down legs. The hardware is basically a corner bracket that connects to the aprons with a dado/saw kerf and some screws. Then you sink a hanger bolt into the corner of your leg, stick the machine screw side through the bracket and cinch down with a wing nut. As it was a big table I actually put two brackets into each corner. Very simple to do, the only hard part was drilling the holes for the hanger bolts as it's going into the corner or the leg as opposed to a flat side. But a simple jig on the drill press makes that easy too. I don't recall where I got the hardware. Probably woodcraft. Ah, yeah, here you go. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/27A31/hafele-corner-brace-table-leg.aspx The aprons attach to the top just like any table top. I think I used z clips. With the legs off it becomes very easy to move even by yourself.
  10. I thought I heard Marc say somewhere it was going to be a kids table and chairs. The podcast maybe?
  11. Pretty interesting. Amazon sells it. Looks like $160 for the head and $150/per profile insert pair. They also sell a similar system by a company called Corob that is a lot cheaper. It looks to use molding knives much more like a molding planer.
  12. Yeah, I'd give it at least 48 hours if not 72 from your last coat of Danish oil and put on arm-r-seal or some sort of wipe on poly. Just get a satin finish and stir the can well before applying. A kitchen table in a house with kids is going to take a lot of abuse so you'll want to protect it well. A catalyzed lacquer would be good too if you have spray gear.
  13. Yeah. When I eventually list my house for sale I'll be renting a storage unit somewhere nearby and taking the vast majority of my tools and stuff there to clear out the garage. Some sawhorses and a miter saw, maybe my workbench and some hand tools, and a small amount of lumber will stay behind. Most of what I would be working on would be fix-up projects inside the house anyway, and I want the buyer to see the garage as nice and spacious, not crammed to the gills with tools and rolling cabinets and all sorts of other stuff. If the guy happens to be a woodworker he'll notice the sub-panel with numerous outlets, the roubo bench, and the substantial amount of pegboard on some of the walls and hopefully it'll be a nice added feature. Otherwise, whatever.