Stobes21

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Everything posted by Stobes21

  1. Around me red oak is cheap, reasonably hard for a tabletop, and stains and finishes well.
  2. I made Marc's toy box for last year's woodworkers fighting cancer build out of leftover unfinished red oak boards from when I put some in my house. Worked fine for that since I didn't need wide boards and the grooves could all be faced in. Of course, that was pretty much a bunch of frame and panels with chalkboard ply as the panels. Other types of furniture would be hard. But there are some definite options: rails and stiles (as mentioned above) drawer stock (mill grooves out and you have ~1/2" thickness), may have to glue up a couple for wider drawer sides Picture frames small boxes lay some down on top of 3/4" ply for countertops on shop cabinets story sticks/spacer boards rip a 45* angle and use for french cleats
  3. I've done BLO under Arm-r-seal and I've done shellac under it, but never both. The BLO I've done as a way to pore fill. Just wet sand the BLO with a fine grit wet dry paper and then wipe off the excess slurry. After the BLO has plenty of time to dry I sand lightly and apply arm-r-seal for a nice protective finish. In this instance the BLO (or Danish oil works the same for this purpose) isn't there for color but rather as a medium for the pore filling process. And I particularly like a thin coat of garnet shellac under Arm-r-seal on walnut. It warms up the wood nicely without obscuring the grain. And it seals the wood nicely so the arm-r-seal starts to build immediately and the piece overall requires fewer coats.
  4. http://www.woodfinder.com/listings/012869.php I should add that I got those boards fresh out of a new batch. They have always had nice walnut boards every time I've been but those were exceptional.
  5. I have a place where I can find nice wide boards with minimal or no sap. So that's rarely an issue for me. Unless a knot or other defect is really gnarly I try to stabilize it and include it. This is from my last walnut project. Fresh off the planer. Either 5/4 or 6/4, I don't actually remember.
  6. Bed bolts work well but require a hole in the headboard and footboard. Or get bed rail brackets from rockler/woodcraft.
  7. I seriously doubt most of those home made tools come out costing much less than a decent used machine would. For example you can get used 14" bandsaws on craigslist pretty much any time for a couple hundred bucks. No way you could get all the materials, wheels, bearings, and a decent motor (plus other stuff I'm not thinking of) for much less than that. Not to mention all the time you'd spend building it instead of just building the projects you want to build. Now, if that's what you want to build then go for it. But if you want to build furniture then just build furniture. You can build nice stuff with very limited tools and slowly save up for the bigger machines while watching for good deals. About the only major tool I'd say makes sense to build is a router table. There are plenty of good designs online and in the major woodworking magazines.
  8. I keep a deck of playing cards around for shims and find them very useful. Cheap, easily available, and glue doesn't stick to them. But for what you're doing why don't you try hot gluing the board to your sled? The glue will match the exact thickness you need, dries nice and hard, and will make sure the board doesn't rock. After you're done it'll pop right off with a scraper.
  9. I did a table a while back with knock down legs. The hardware is basically a corner bracket that connects to the aprons with a dado/saw kerf and some screws. Then you sink a hanger bolt into the corner of your leg, stick the machine screw side through the bracket and cinch down with a wing nut. As it was a big table I actually put two brackets into each corner. Very simple to do, the only hard part was drilling the holes for the hanger bolts as it's going into the corner or the leg as opposed to a flat side. But a simple jig on the drill press makes that easy too. I don't recall where I got the hardware. Probably woodcraft. Ah, yeah, here you go. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/27A31/hafele-corner-brace-table-leg.aspx The aprons attach to the top just like any table top. I think I used z clips. With the legs off it becomes very easy to move even by yourself.
  10. I thought I heard Marc say somewhere it was going to be a kids table and chairs. The podcast maybe?
  11. Pretty interesting. Amazon sells it. Looks like $160 for the head and $150/per profile insert pair. They also sell a similar system by a company called Corob that is a lot cheaper. It looks to use molding knives much more like a molding planer.
  12. Yeah, I'd give it at least 48 hours if not 72 from your last coat of Danish oil and put on arm-r-seal or some sort of wipe on poly. Just get a satin finish and stir the can well before applying. A kitchen table in a house with kids is going to take a lot of abuse so you'll want to protect it well. A catalyzed lacquer would be good too if you have spray gear.
  13. Yeah. When I eventually list my house for sale I'll be renting a storage unit somewhere nearby and taking the vast majority of my tools and stuff there to clear out the garage. Some sawhorses and a miter saw, maybe my workbench and some hand tools, and a small amount of lumber will stay behind. Most of what I would be working on would be fix-up projects inside the house anyway, and I want the buyer to see the garage as nice and spacious, not crammed to the gills with tools and rolling cabinets and all sorts of other stuff. If the guy happens to be a woodworker he'll notice the sub-panel with numerous outlets, the roubo bench, and the substantial amount of pegboard on some of the walls and hopefully it'll be a nice added feature. Otherwise, whatever.
  14. Oh, and make sure the blade is put in square to the sole of the plane. Put the blade in and advance it until you can just see it when you sight down the sole. Adjust until it looks square. Then grab a small thin slice of wood, maybe a 16th of an inch or so thick and about the size of your thumb. Drag it along its edge on both sides of the sole and feel the resistance as the blade slices the wood. You should be able to feel if one side is taking a shallower cut than the other. Adjust accordingly until it feels even. If you really want to go nuts you can take a pair of calipers to your shavings to dial it in even further but if it feels right and the shavings look even then I wouldn't bother.
  15. On the hand plane side if you're leaving deep gouges then your blade is set way too far out. Start with the blade retracted all the way and slowly advance the blade until you just barely start getting little slices/slivers of wood. You won't get full shavings at first but don't keep advancing the blade. Plane a smallish area over and over until you start getting shavings. Look at those and advance the blade a bit more if you want a deeper cut. No more than a couple thous though if you're trying to avoid tracks. The other thing to do is mark your high spots and only plane those. Using a straight edge (the corner of a plane works well) find your high spots and mark them with a pencil or piece of chalk. Then just plane those areas. No need to start on one edge of the board and go full length. Take a few passes on just your high spots and check for flatness again. Mark again and repeat until the board is flat. Then you can take a few full length passes to smooth the whole face. Oh, and make sure the board is sitting flat on your bench before you start planing it. Use shims if necessary but if it's rocking up and down as you plane it you'll be chasing your own tail.
  16. If you're using a cloth bag filter consider upgrading to a canister filter at the same time you do your separator. The canister filter will increase your airflow, which should negate some or all of the airflow loss from the separator. Plus, it'll do a much better job catching the fine dust.
  17. I've used it for a big outdoor table and a few smaller items. It is quite hard and somewhat prone to tear out. The outdoor oil I used on it peeled/flaked off within a couple of months (GF I think). But i have had no problems with an oil finish on a heavy mallet I made that stays in my shop. The look is somewhat unique. Quite yellow, especially with an oil finish. Reminds me a lot of teak.
  18. I can say pretty definitively as a former lawyer that morality and right and wrong has nothing to do with it. The lawyers will talk a big game but it all comes down to money. Sawstop is making money on this feature and Bosch wants a piece of the pie. So sawstop is suing to try to protect its turf. I'm with Eric: who cares? Companies sue each other all the time over this kind of stuff. Just part of the system.
  19. I'm sure the dewalt would be good too, but I've had good luck with Bosch so I usually stick with them for smaller power tools. Cordless would be nice if you transport lumber in anything other than a truck and occasionally need to break down boards to get them into your car. Otherwise I'd say go corded.
  20. The color would be fine, but ash has fairly prominent grain that I think would serve as a distraction from the top. I'd suggest maple or birch (may not find in solid lumber) if you want to go light.
  21. I see those mini bandsaws up on Craigslist all the time. If you really want to try it pick up one someone else is upgrading from and try it out. Then if the collective advice here is right and you hate it you can put it back up and lose little to nothing but some time and frustration. If the size works but there are little things that a different model of mini bandsaw would address then you can resell the used one and buy new with a more specific idea of what to look for for your work. As for jigsaws: I have a nice Bosch and rarely do I have issues with the blade deflecting. I've cut 6/4 rough hardwood plenty of times and the cuts are surprisingly clean and straight. A decent jigsaw to rough out the shape and the rigid OSS/belt sander combo unit (awesome tool btw) to make sure your edges are square and to smooth out the shapes should have you set for curves in 4/4 lumber and sheet goods.
  22. Agreed with others that you'll need slats for the mattress to rest on. No need for the huge grid of 2x8s. A king size mattress just needs a single middle support running head to foot to keep the slats from sagging too much. How are you going to reinforce those shelves around the side? They are going to need to hold several hundred pounds as the users will definitely sit on them as a bench to get in and out of bed, get dressed, etc. And I would be (actually I was, I built a fairly similar design out of walnut not long ago) concerned that the shelves would split along the grain where it cantilevers off. Perhaps build up the shelf from a layer of 3/4" ply, then a 1x8, and nose the front with a 1x2. How, if at all, does the top frame break down? Made out of all 2x8s that's going to be a heavy beast, and for a king size mattress moving it into a room is going to be a real challenge if it doesn't break down. I suppose if you're using pocket screws you can unscrew it and then reassemble later, but that's a lot of joints if you aren't notching the boards to interlock them, so you may be better off using a set of no mortise bed rail connections or even some simple bed bolts.