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Everything posted by Stobes21

  1. Agreed. I have a 3hp cabinet saw and I'd take that board straight to my bandsaw.
  2. Lunchbox planers can and regularly do plane 12-13" wide boards running no more than 1 or 1.5 hp. And from a cutting/motor perspective that's really no different than what a jointer does. I'd say a similar principle applies: if the motor starts to bog down just set it for a lighter cut. I keep my 8" jointer with a 1 or 1.5 hp motor set to take about 1/32" per pass and have never had any problems with it bogging down.
  3. I'll throw in another endorsement of the PEC squares from Harry Epstein. I bought the 12" combo and the 4" combo and they both are dead on accurate.
  4. Stobes21


    I don't bother with them. Barn wood and old fence boards are a great source of authentic weathered/rustic wood that is far less likely to be contaminated with nasty chemicals. It's a fad that has been taken way too far in my opinion but if I'm going to jump on board at least that way is safer. Pallet wood almost always looks cheap and dirty to me. Sure, you may find some decent hardwood on a few, but I'd rather buy good hardwood from a reputable dealer than dig through a huge pile of crap to find it, run the risk of dangerous contamination, chew up my blades trying to clean it up, and then hope the end product looks as good as it would had I just bought decent materials to start with. I'm a hobbyist and don't get much time to work in my shop. I'd rather spend my money on wood and my time building stuff I like than my money on blades and my time trying to make dirty, crappy pine look like anything other than dirty, crappy pine. That being said, if the pallet wood you're using has an odor remember that shellac makes for an excellent sealer against smells. Go ahead and topcoat it with something more durable, but if fully applied the shellac should lock any nastiness inside.
  5. Most 110v plugs have small holes through the prongs on their plugs. A narrow pad lock or cable lock can be put through those holes and will prevent the plug from being inserted into an outlet. Another thought: most power tools have a removeable safety "key" built into the switch that you simply pull out to disable the switch. Pull those and put them in a lockbox or small safe that is bolted to the floor or wall. Label the keys so everyone knows what key goes to what tool. Basically the same setup most car dealerships use.
  6. Never done the whole dado stack backwards, but I did flip a single chipper once. I knew immediately something was wrong because I had to push so much harder to get the material through. Still took me a bit to figure out exactly why though.
  7. I had the successor model to that saw, the 4512, and I was able to make some up using tempered hardboard and 1/4" ply. The hardboard fit the very shallow recess available but was way too flexible to be of use by itself. So I used the ply to reinforce the hardboard and make the whole thing more rigid (no pun intended). Basically cut the hardboard to fit the oval, then shaped the ply to fit around as much of the insert as possible without interfering with the metal tabs that hold the insert. Then glued the ply to the hardboard, drilled a finger hole, and went to work. Took a while to get everything shaped exactly right, but then I batched out a bunch of them with a pattern bit so I had a nice little stack I could use for new blades, dado's, etc. I gave them all to the guy I sold the saw to, otherwise I'd show you a pic.
  8. That's a very open topic, but as for the mobility question I can say that the integrated mobile base on the sawstop cabinet saws works well.
  9. If you're referring to the one by Jeff Miller it is indeed excellent. Though it doesn't cover anything like what the op is asking about, at least I don't think. There is a bunk bed plan, but it isn't a frame and panel design. Jdubs, I would strongly suggest building the rail to headboard joints unsung some sort of knockdown hardware. You want to be able to take it apart if you ever move, or even just to get it from your shop to your kid's room. Bed bolts are the traditional way to do it but the rail connectors that rockler and woodcraft sell work fine too and don't even require mortising for the hardware.
  10. I have the harbor freight collector with the rockler flex hose and quick connect fittings. I just move it from machine to machine. Really isn't a big deal, it just takes a few seconds. I recently converted it to a two stage system by building a thein separator on a trash can. That took longer than I'd originally planned but it works well in collecting the vast majority of the dust and chips. I'm going to pick up a Wynn filter too and that should really help keep the fine dust out of the air. When the weather is nice and I can have the garage door open I can just roll the collector out into the driveway and pop the filter off and let the fines blow to the wind. The miter saw is a huge dust machine though. I may need to go with a hood type setup like what higtron posted.
  11. Schwarz recommends yellow pine from the home center. The large sizes, 2x10 and 2x12, are usually the best quality wood. Pick through the pile to find the straightest, clearest boards and then cut them down to the sizes you need. Doug fir, if it's cheap and easily available in your area, would be a nice choice too. If you want to go hardwood then go with something inexpensive and easy to work. Roubo and his colleagues way back went with oak. Ash, soft maple, and beech are all good choices too depending on availability and price. As for wet wood, a wet top and dry base is ok as it'll tighten up the joints as the top dries over the years in your shop. But a wet base and a dry top will do the opposite, so avoid that if you can.
  12. I buy most of my lumber from two local yards. One is a smallish operation that uses a solar kiln and the other is actually Eric's yard (or the yard where he works at least) where I believe they source their lumber from the bigger distributors that use the big ovens. I've had good luck with both. I don't have a moisture meter but I usually let wood acclimate for a good while before I start using it. I think as long as the person/people in charge of the drying know what they're doing and take the time to do it right it doesn't matter.
  13. If they are selling it as hard maple it probably is. But for something like this even soft maple should work fine. Telling the difference between the two at the lumber yard is difficult. Keep in mind "soft" maple is only soft relative to hard maple. It's still a very hard wood.
  14. So the jointer, as others here have expressed, basically does two things: gets one face of a board flat, and then gets one edge flat/straight and square to that face. So if you follow the solid advice from the others here and get a planer and a reliable tablesaw fence, you'll still need to do those things. Here's how: Face: if the board doesn't have any twist or bow but is just cupped, run the cup side down through your planer until you get a completely clean opposite face. If the board is rough sawn this should be easily apparent. If it's already been surfaced then scribble full width lines all down the face to be planed with a pencil to verify your progress. Plane until clean, then flip and repeat. End result should be faces that are flat and parallel. If the board has twist or bow you'll need a planer sled. This is basically just a flat piece of plywood that you attach your board to. Hot glue works well. Just attach the board to your sled and make sure it can't rock or otherwise move relative to the sled. Plane until you have a flat face, then pull it off the sled and flip and run with your newly flattened side down. The idea here is the planer registers flat and parallel off its bed so the sled provides a flat reference for you. Edge: you'll want to build an edge jointing/tapering jig. This is just a long piece of plywood or MDF (as long or longer than the piece you need to edge joint) with some toggle clamps on it. Steve Ramsey has a good video on how to make one of these. Clamp the board to the jig such that one edge hangs off all the way down. Set your fence to take the smallest cut possible while cutting the edge the entire length of the board. Make sure your blade is perfectly square to the table and then run it through. That freshly cut edge should then be flat/straight and a perfect 90* to the faces. The idea here is the fence side of the jig is straight and runs along the fence giving you an equally straight cut on the opposite side. So you can take a board without a straight edge and give it one by referencing off of a known straight edge: your jig. And your cut will be 90* because the blade is square to the table and you'll run your flat face against that table, thus ensuring a square edge. Also, this jig can do double duty as a tapering jig should you need that function at some point. Note: you can also do all of the above with a hand plane, but since this is in the power tool section I'll leave that alone.
  15. No finish will stop wood movement. If your joinery and design is solid and your wood was properly dried you should be ok. For a natural looking finish an oil would seem to be a good choice. Just make sure the inside of the box can fully cure before you put the lid on or it'll smell like oil for years. If you are time constrained then shellac or lacquer will dry a lot faster.
  16. Is this an indoor or outdoor table? Assuming it's indoor your best best for not adding any color at all would be a water based finish. Minwax polycrylic is available at home centers. General finishes high performance is somewhat harder to obtain but gets better reviews.
  17. With long grain glue joints like that dominoes or a tongue and groove is really just an alignment tool. Put a bunch of pieces of wood together like that in the clamps and they'll slip and slide and be difficult to all get even. So yeah, that would be a good use for dominoes. Not sure what you mean by "wicking." Long grain wood shouldn't wick moisture all the way through regardless of grain orientation. Are you referring to the direction of expansion? In other words orienting the grain vertically so the seasonal expansion mostly happens through the thickness rather than the width of the panel? If so then no, dominoes or t&g won't interfere with that at all.
  18. So basically you want to call both places and find out how much they are charging for 8/4 (pronounced eight-quarter) hard maple. And find out whether it is sold rough, s2s or s3s. Milling rough stock isn't hard if you have the right tools, but it does add an extra step that can take a while. So because you are time limited unless there is a significant price difference I would try to buy s3s lumber. At the yard you'll want between 40-45 board feet. If they let you pick through the piles make sure they are pretty straight and have minimal defects. You can cut around knots and the like but the cleaner the stock the more efficient you can be with it. Figure out how wide you want the strips to be for your glue up before you go. So if, for example, you are doing 2" wide strips then your most efficient boards will be widths in multiples of that plus the needed saw kerfs (usually 1/8".) So a board at 4 1/8 or 1/4 would give you 2 strips with minimal waste. A board exactly 6" wide though will cost more and still not get you more than 2 strips by the time you rip it down.
  19. I've used contact cement, the same kind used to apply laminate to a substrate. In fact, the procedure was almost identical. Cover both pieces and wait until tacky. Put the copper over the wood with dowels in between. Start removing dowels on one end and roll flat with a J roller, slowly moving down the board until the whole thing is on. I don't recall the exact brand of adhesive I used but it was from the home center and came in a red can.
  20. Try brown paper, like the kind from a grocery bag. Rub the finish down with that and then apply paste was and buff. It should give you a very buttery smooth to the touch finish. 3m also makes finishing pads in varying smoothness levels. Their smoothest one, white I believe, may do the trick too.
  21. Holes like that are part end grain and part long grain in varying proportions as you go around the circle. So they will absorb finish to a different degree as you go around the hole with any sort of brushed or ragged on finish. This leads to an uneven appearance. If those are holes for something like candles then it won't matter. But if it will be prominently seen then it may be an issue. Hopefully the rattle can poly does the trick.
  22. Use a wood movement calculator to figure out how much the top will likely move across the distance between the two outermost screws and then plan for expansion and contraction. If you're building in your local climate's humid season leave most of the room for contraction. Leave most of the room for expansion if you're in your dry period. And if you're going to get much movement I would try to make the screw holes slotted rather than just oversized round since wood only moves cross grain and you want the hole tight to the screw body on the long grain sides to give better hold on the screw head.