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Everything posted by Stobes21

  1. Agreed on the backer board. And I notice you cut them across the grain. Why? That'll cause more tear out and with the design you posted I don't see why you would need them cross grain instead of on the ends.
  2. You can make your own laminate/composite material. It's basically just layers of cloth glued up with epoxy and clamped in a form. Decent epoxy isn't cheap, but if you've already invested in some for other stuff it may be a way to get the material you need with minimal new out of pocket costs. Just google how to make micarta and you'll find plenty of results.
  3. I have one I picked up off eBay a couple weeks ago for a bit over $50 with shipping. There was some surface rust but it cleaned up nice with some basic rust remover and a scotch brute pad. I haven't sharpened the iron yet to start cutting but the plane is nice and solid and I'm happy with it so far. The backlash is certainly more than my new lie nielsons but not unreasonable. Certainly not a dozen turns.
  4. That label was all that stood between you and a firey death. One night you're going to lay down and BAM! - the whole thing is just going to explode. Shoulda read the label...
  5. For what it's worth I did a class recently with Christopher Schwarz and Deneb Puchalski of Lie-Nielson than focused heavily on sharpening. Their setups were- Schwarz: Shapton 1k, 4k, and 10k. Dia Flat plate for flattening. Deneb: Ohishi 1k and 10k. No intermediate stone. Dia Flat for flattening. Both used a grinder for work rougher than 1k. Schwarz used a cheap $15 side clamp honing guide. Deneb had a prototype guide that Lie-Nielson has been working on and will supposedly start selling later this year. Schwarz indicated that when the Lie- Nielsen guide came out he would probably switch to that. As with so much in woodworking at a certain point you have a choice between lots of options that work and you just need to pick what you want to use and what will work best for you. Personally I recently ordered the sigma power 1k/6k/13k special set from tools from Japan. Seemed like a good deal when you include the flattening plate and stone holder. Haven't received it yet so I can't give any specific reviews.
  6. I built a patio table that has a very similar design, but because it's outdoors I left expansion gaps between each board. Probably wouldn't work for an indoor design though. Probably your best bet is to build the cross grain oriented pieces as breadboards. That way the long pieces can move as needed. Only issue is that middle board. You may need to omit that or build each half of the table as an independent top. Perhaps even make the top expandable so you can drop a leaf in as needed.
  7. I really like that design. The floating top and tapered legs give it a beautifully light feel. And that walnut top is awesome. I'd be hesitant to put a lower shelf on there though. Seems like it'll really detract from the airy design. Perhaps a single long stretcher across the width and two short stretchers across the depth? I'm a bit confused by the dowels though. I thought you said the skirt would join the legs via mortise and tenon? Hence the issue with dye? If you're using dowels that should allow you to dye the skirt before you put in the dowels and you won't have any issues at all.
  8. Yeah, a polyurethane glue would probably work. They say that stuff works on glass, so I'd imagine it'll work on any surface treatment you could put on wood. Epoxy works on nearly anything too.
  9. The shellac flakes I bought from woodcraft came dewaxed. Mixing them up is pretty easy, especially with those little mixing cups with the measurements and ratios all printed in the sides that the woodworking stores sell. I've never sprayed it though so I'm afraid I can't help with that much. Didn't Marc do some tests in a video a while back and found no difference in how poly adhered to waxed vs dewaxed?
  10. Just glue up some test boards. I too suspect the ink will have little to no effect on the glue, but ebonize and then glue some scrap boards together and bang them around when they are dry and fine out for sure. If it does cause issues you could always use a different glue.
  11. Not what I normally put in that holster, but it seems to work.
  12. Your mother was a hamster and your father smelt of elderberries! Nice bench though man. I've got a sharpening bench penciled in on about page three of my to build for the shop list, so in a decade or so I may steal some of your ideas.
  13. Well, cutting a circle with a hole in the middle is easy with any number of jigs for the router, bandsaw, or even the table saw if you really want. And real records didn't have the song and artist carved into the center, they had a printed sticker. Stickers are easy on home printers.
  14. Rips: both work. Table saw rips are much cleaner, bandsaw rips are somewhat safer since it doesn't kick back and you don't have to worry about pinching the blade with reaction wood. The larger table on the tablesaw allows longer rips without outfeed or indeed support, but both need support for real long boards. The stock fence on my grizzly bandsaw is ok but not as good as a decent tablesaw fence. Cross/miter cuts: table saw is much better. You can do it on a bandsaw but you're limited in length by the post. Sleds are much easier on a table saw. Curves: perfect on a bandsaw. No go on a tablesaw. Resaw: can be done on both. Bandsaw is generally preferred as it will give you a larger capacity, you lose a lot less wood to the saw kerf, and you aren't likely to burn the wood. Joinery: depends. Both can cut tenons, though the cuts are cleaner on a tablesaw. Hybrid dovetails are fairly easy on a bandsaw. Table saw will cut rabbets, dados, tongue and grooves, and with a jig can do box or finger joints easy. Tablesaw has the edge here. All in all I agree with most others that the tablesaw is probably a better choice. But if you mostly do curves, or primarily are a turner, or prefer to do most of the tablesaw jobs listed above with other tools then the bandsaw may be better.
  15. If it's black locust be aware that it's a rather unique wood to work with. It is super hard, rivaling IPE, and can be a challenge for your tools. Be prepared to spend extra time sharpening. It is super durable outdoors. From what I've read locust fence posts can last nearly a century. My own experience is much shorter in duration but I've got a table that's been outdoors for about three years and, aside from color, appears to be in as good of shape as it was the day I put it out there. On the other hand I understand it makes for really great firewood. I read somewhere that it contains as much thermal energy as anathracite coal.
  16. So there are really three different aspects of "size" to consider: cutter width, table length, and motor power. Cutter width determines the max width of boards you can face joint. So a 6" jointer is limited to 6" or less wide boards. Bumping up to 8" doesn't seem like that big of a difference but it really is. If you can afford to go to 8" then I highly recommend doing it. Table length determines how long of boards the machine can effectively flatten. Unfortunately long tables also take up a lot of space. And motor size can determine how much wood can be taken off in each pass. Deeper cuts and especially face joints on wide stock will strain the motor more. I personally bought a used powermatic 8" model from when they were still made in the USA. I think it's a mid to late 90s model. It has shorter tables than modern powermatic 8" models. I don't recall the exact length right now but about the same as most new 6" models. That actually works well for me since my shop is pretty small and I can just use hand planes on really long boards when I need them full length. I don't know the exact motor size but it's a 110v motor, so I'd guess 1.5hp. I've never had any problems face jointing wide boards, though I never try to take more than 1/16" per pass. Usually I shoot more for 1/32". I figure if a 110v lunchbox planer can handle similar cuts on 12-13" wide boards my jointer can definitely handle 8" wide. Mechanically jointers aren't very complicated so I think it's a good tool to consider buying used. If the motor and bearings are in good shape and the tables are flat it isn't much work to get it tuned up and ready to rock. Just bring a good straightedge to evaluate it before you buy it. You may need to shim the dovetailed ways to get the tables coplanar but that isn't hard. And new knives (or a jig to sharpen the existing ones if they are in decent shape) are easy enough to obtain. You will probably need some way of setting the knives, but you'd need that for a new one as well unless you get a helical head.
  17. Need is a relative term. The dust extractors will work perfectly fine without a pre separator, but you'll go through a lot more bags that way. So the trade off is the extra cost (in space and money) of the pre separator vs. the cost and hassle of more frequent bag changes.
  18. I'd be annoyed if the butcher rang up a batch of steaks at 5lbs and they actually only weighed 4. Or if I filled up my car and got charged for 20 gallons of gas and actually only got 15. In both instances the businesses can charge what they want per unit of measurement but if they manipulate the measurement so that I'm charged for more than I'm getting that's fraud, plain and simple. If the yard is getting a dramatically different number than you then someone is messing up and you absolutely have the right to question that. Don't be a jerk about it and any place that wants to keep your business will work with you to figure it out. If they have a policy where they round up significantly or charge for the BF of the rough board instead of the S3S board then they should be able to tell you that so you can take it into consideration when you compare prices between yards and when you plan on how much lumber to buy for a project.
  19. I have the rigid contractor saw and its a nice machine. The only alignment issue I had was the miter slots were misaligned with the blade and it took a fair bit of tinkering to get it all squared up. But since then it has been fine. Shame you aren't closer to me as I'm actually trying to sell the saw now. I finally decided to get the full size sawstop cabinet saw so the rigid has to go. But the rigid is plenty powerful enough to handle 8/4 maple as long as you don't try to feed it too quickly, the cast iron top is nice and stable, and the fence is pretty good, especially for that style of saw.
  20. U-Pick is a great place and I shop there regularly. Great selection, reasonable prices, and friendly service. And their lumber is great quality. If you get a chance though there is a yard in north city, near 70 and kingshighway, that sells rough sawn lumber from recycled trees in the greater STL area. They have very good prices, a nice selection of walnut and cherry slabs, and a bunch of species you don't normally see at lumber yards like black and honey locust, catalpa, Cottonwood, Osage orange, and others. They are only open a couple hours on the first and third Saturday of the month, so tomorrow am is a good chance if you have the time to spare. I find it fun just to wander around and see all the different cool species they have. Here's a link:
  21. Is it possible your fence rails are a little loose? Especially if you move it around a couple of loose bolts can let the fence rails move slightly and throw off your measurements.
  22. I just took delivery of that exact saw yesterday. It's still on the pallet in my shop until I can clear out enough junk to start setup. I too considered the longer fence but decided against it for space reasons. Why do you say the ICS mobile base is better? I thought the PCS base that they are including in the promotion got pretty good reviews?
  23. Yes. A higher angle is harder to push but less likely to tear out because it is less likely to lever under the wood fibers and split it out. A lower angle is easier to push but more likely to act as a lever and cause tear out. A low angle also works best for end grain. End grain doesn't tear out because the grain is oriented perpendicular to the sole of the plane instead of parallel. But that also makes it much harder to cut. Hence the lower angle. Think of tear out likes micro version of splitting a log with a wedge. The wedge itself doesn't cut the wood. The split occurs down from the wedge along the grain as it splits out from the force pulling the log apart. The less force trying to rip the fibers apart the less likely it is to split out. That's why a really sharp blade helps so much: the blade severs the fibers instead of splitting them. And a tight mouth pushes down on the fibers immediately in front of the blade, making it harder for them to lift up. It's also why you always want to cut with the grain instead of against it. If the grain is running up toward the face of the board then any splitting that does happen will immediately be cut away by the blade. But if you cut against the grain that splitting is running down into the board and will be left there after the blade passes over.
  24. I actually think any of the methods would work fine. I'd suggest, if it works for your storage needs, to put a divider halfway between the ends dado'ed into the front and back. That will help significantly in reducing the ability of the front and back panels to flex. It will also provide additional support for the seat above.