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Everything posted by Stobes21

  1. A lot of discussion here about how to get your boards flat and square, but not much about how to judge that in the first place. First, plan on spending some time digging through the lumber to get boards that are as straight and free of defects as possible. Home center lumber is usually pretty poor quality, but unlike some lumberyards you can dig through the piles as much as you want. With dimensioned lumber all the boards cost the same so you'll want to get the best bang for your buck. So dig and select the best options, sighting down the length of the board to find the straightest stock. If some boards are noticeably heavier than others discard them as well: they are wetter and will be more likely to move on you. And of course look for knots, cracks, bark inclusions, and other defects. Then you'll need a couple tools to check straight and square. As mentioned above, a cut of mdf can make a very inexpensive straightedge, though it will be heavy and not particularly durable. A 60" metal ruler is a much better choice in my opinion and can also be used for layout. You'll also want a square. Combination squares are the most versatile option, but many of them aren't actually square. There are different ways to test this, but the easiest thing to do is bring a pad of paper like a legal pad. Put the square up to the edge of the paper more or less in the middle and draw a line with a fine mechanical pencil. Then flip it over and draw along the same line. If the line tracks the whole length the same then it is square. If it deviates then it isn't and you don't want it. Don't be afraid to test multiple squares until you find one that is actually square. Do this with both the top and bottom of the ruler. When you get home check your tools and calibrate as needed. The 5 cut method is perfect for sleds. Make sure your tablesaw blade is parallel with both the miter slots and your fence. I have a power jointer, but I find it unwieldy for particularly long boards. My favorite method is to use my track saw to put on a fast straight edge. But with minimal practice a jointer plane can be very quick as well. If you are just going to run it through the table saw then remember that you don't need a perfect edge, just one straight and flat enough to put up against the fence. Final piece of advice is to rough cut your pieces to length and width before milling them further. It's a whole lot easier to flatten and straighten multiple small boards than it is to try to get an 8' board perfect before you cut your pieces. After you've gotten the faces flat and the edges straight then you can cut them again to get nice, square boards of exactly the right length and width.
  2. Plenty of good options listed. I usually use cedar since its sheep, easy to work, and I don't mind putting it out in the elements. I would have a harder time putting out a more expensive wood. I made a patio dining table out of black locust, mostly just because I could get it cheap and wanted to try it. It's so incredibly hard that it's a bear to work but after two years of outdoor exposure with no covers or any real treatment it is still in great shape.
  3. If you're in an area of the country where alder is common that would be a good choice as well.
  4. Looks like a generic Asian import hardwood. Rubberwood or maybe luan?
  5. Woodcraft sells kits and blanks as well.
  6. My suggestion would be to skip the BLO and grain filler entirely. Start by getting your piece fully sanded. Then wet sand with plenty of natural Danish oil and 220 or 320 wet dry paper. Let it dry for 30 to 45 mins and gently wipe down the surface with plenty of paper towels, moving across the grain. Let dry 24 hours or so, wiping again if it has any wet spots. Then sand dry with the same grit paper you used to wet sand, blow off the surface with compressed air, and hit with a couple coats of arm-r-seal. As others have mentioned, with a satin finish grain filling isn't necessary at all. But the above has given me very nice results on walnut several times with far less hassle and sanding than using a commercial grain filler.
  7. Sounds like you're not sure how to make the curved posts with power tools. I'd make a template out of 1/2" mdf. Just draw a nice looking curve and cut it out with a bandsaw or jigsaw. Then use a spindle sander to smooth it all up and tweak the shape as desired. Once the template is exactly right you can use a router and a pattern or flush trim bit to cut your posts all with identical matching curves. No need for any hand work after except for some sanding. The headboard and footboard panels in the link you provided appears to be flat, so that would be simple enough to make and then attach to your posts using your joinery method of choice.
  8. Think of it like a ruler, but instead of taking measurements in some unit of length you simply mark down a needed length from your particular work. So if you needed to build something like a drawer box to fit into a given opening you'd just mark the story stick to show the actual opening. You don't then need to care what the precise measurement is in inches or mm or whatever, you just cut exactly to your mark on your story stick. No risk of transposing numbers or forgetting the exact fractional measurement or anything like that.
  9. Rubber cement would work too, especially if you use card stock or some other thicker paper. It isn't a spray, but it is cheap and very easy to come by.
  10. Any time you're getting movement that extreme from a board I think you should really pull it off the table saw and use a bandsaw to rough rip it. The edges won't be straight anyway, so rip it on a machine that won't possibly throw it back at you first then clean up the edges at the jointer or, if the fence edge is still straight, a kerf width cut back at the table saw so it can't pinch.
  11. The blue metal F style clamps from harbor freight are a great deal. I've got a bunch of them and use them all the time. Even more than my jet parallel clamps actually. A good set of those and some 3/4" pipe clamps should get you set up fairly cheap.
  12. Some wood glues are theoretically stronger than others. Within the titebond line, for example, 3 is stronger than 2 and 2 is stronger than 1. But pretty much all the modern wood glues form a bond stronger than the wood itself anyway, so the wood will break before the glue bond regardless of which glue is used. So use whatever you have or best suits the application in terms of water resistance, open time, usability, cost, etc.
  13. I've made shop cabinets with pocket screws, rabbets, and dominoes. All worked fine. Pocket holes are the easiest option, but it is very easy to over torque the screws in 1/2" plywood and blow through the other side. No worries in 5/8 and 3/4" material though.
  14. If you're mixing it with BLO and mineral spirits then you need an oil based poly. Water based finishes don't mix with BLO or mineral spirits. This recipe is for a wiping varnish. It will create a very thin film finish. It will be easier to apply than straight poly but won't build much. A very light sanding between coats is good. If you're looking to build a thicker film you'll want to drop the BLO after the first couple coats and just wipe thinned poly.
  15. Stella, that is a very broad series of questions. I'll attempt to give you a basic overview, but understand there is a lot of room for variation and some situations where an entirely different procedure is necessary. Assuming your top is flat, you'll want to start with a coarse grit sandpaper and work your way up. I usually start with 80 or 120, depending on how rough the surface is. I scribble pencil lines all over then sand until all are gone. Then move up in grit, repeating the pencil marks at each step. Usually the progression goes 80-120-150-180-220. At that point you'll want to clean up the dust with compressed air or a tack cloth. Get it nice and clean then apply your first coat of finish. How you do so depends on the finish. Let it dry and then sand very lightly with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper. Do not use a power sander at this point, just a sanding block or pad. Then apply a second coat. Apply additional coats as needed for protection and aesthetics. We would need to know what type of furniture and what finish to give you more specific guidance on number of coats. Sand lightly between each coat. After the final coat dries you can finish the finish, so to speak. For a gloss finish just a buff with some paste wax and a soft cotton cloth will do it. For a satin finish 0000 steel wool or a piece of brown paper from a grocery bag can give it a nice feel before hitting it too with paste wax and a cotton cloth.
  16. I crosscut rough lumber with a jig saw. Rip it with my track saw or my bandsaw.
  17. I'd use arm r seal. It's simple to apply, won't run (since you wipe off the excess), and is quite durable. Just make sure you have some ventilation while it cures. It isn't too stinky to my nose, but indoors it might be too much for some.
  18. If you want the super shiny mirror finish that people usually go for when they rub out a finish then yes, you need to pore fill. And I may have to disagree with Mike about the oil. I recently did a shop project where, for various reasons, I ended up with some walnut that had been hit with Danish oil and then lacquered right next to some that had only been lacquered. While the oiled stuff was just a hair darker the finished appearance was nearly identical. So I wouldn't bother taking the extra 24 hours or so for the oil. It won't hurt it, but I don't think the difference will be appreciable.
  19. Congratulations! Too bad about WIA. Darn kid is already interfering with your hobbies and isn't even born yet. And yeah, I'll probably go this year. Only a few hours drive for me.
  20. I use a dongle with a little male to male connector so it stays up close to the ear cup. Works fine for me. Sorry, I haven't seen any where the Bluetooth is completely built in. One thing I like about this setup is that it is somewhat more "future-proof." If Bluetooth goes out of style and some other tech replaces it all I have to do is replace the dongle. As long as headphone jacks are still used these muffs will work.
  21. I've never heard of a wood auction either, though occasionally farm auctions will include lumber the farmer had cut and put aside some years prior. My dad bought a bunch of walnut that way some years back. And presumably wood also occasionally goes up for auction occasionally when cabinet shops and the like go out of business and get liquidated via auction.
  22. You'll need to fill the grain as well since both are open pore woods. A clear filler is probably your best bet since a match to either color won't match the other.
  23. What about taking u shaped steel stock with an interior dimension the same as the thickness of your wood and capture the entire panel along the end grain on each side. Cut slots in the steel everywhere except the center for screws. Then attach one or two cleats to the steel to hang the piece. It will be able to expand and contract with humidity but not cup and it will hang on the wall very securely. If you don't like the idea of the steel showing on the front you could do the same with simple angle iron on the back and end grain.
  24. Yeah, it looks like the rather ubiquitous "red mahogany" finish that is very popular on imported furniture. Marc did a video a while back on how to get to that look.
  25. PB, why is MDF used instead of plywood? Wouldn't a good quality 3/4" slab of plywood be just as stable but better able to handle moisture and hold mounting hardware than MDF?