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Everything posted by Stobes21

  1. If you decide to just go for it and need some help give me a holler. I'm in town and would enjoy seeing your shop. Plus, sooner or later my wife is going to tell me to do the same for my kitchen. I too have a couple kids at home and a project list a mile long, but I can make time. Oh, and I have a torch/flamethrower that attaches to a propane tank that is awesome for scorching wood if you take wtnhighlander's idea.
  2. If I'm reading this chart correctly poplar and yellow pine/southern pine are almost identical in weight, at least if their moisture content is the same. White pine is a bit lighter. But moisture content is an important consideration, especially with construction grade lumber. Dig through a pile of 2x4s at the home center and some will be much heavier than others. That's all water weight. So if you do elect to go with pine pick the lightest boards you can find. And prime with either regular shellac or a primer than contains shellac to help seal in any sap.
  3. Steve is right. Poplar paints well and is fairly lightweight.
  4. Make a large panel and set it in a frame for the headboard/footboard on a bed. Get or make a bullnose profile in solid wood and use it for countertops, benchtops, etc. Glue a couple planks together, cut out a circle, and edgeband it. Add a clock mechanism and numbers (stick on, drill holes and inset dowels, stencil on with paint, etc) for a nice wall clock. Slice off the tongue and the bottom of the groove on the other side, edgeband the exposed plys and make picture frames with a rabbet already present to hold the glass.
  5. I don't actually see a problem with this. The logs were lost/abandoned on a state navigable waterway. So the state claims ownership. Why not? The state pays to maintain that waterway and if some yahoo disturbs it trying to recover the logs and ends up blocking the waterway to navigation or creating an environmental hazard or whatever then the state will have to clean up the mess. This isn't like the state is taking logs that belonged to him in the first place, or were on his own property. You want to harvest timber on government land, you better get all your permits. Don't see why the same wouldn't apply to a waterway.
  6. I can just barely fit 4x8 sheets of plywood into the back of my minivan. And I don't recall my length limit for boards but it's at least 10', maybe 11'. So I use that most of the time. My dad has a ford e150 van that is awesome for hauling lumber, so sometimes I'll borrow that if I need a lot. You can always rent a truck. I think I paid $25 for a uhaul pickup for a couple hours a while back when I needed to move a large couch to my inlaws. Even if I didn't have the van I think I'd still rather do that than deal with the hassle of buying, setting up, titling, and then storing a trailer. I just don't need to buy full sheets of ply often enough to make that worthwhile.
  7. Whether you glue the panel into a rabbet on the back of the frame or into a dado within it you're going to have to cut the panel oversize. I don't think you will save any material going for a rabbet as opposed to a dado. With a dado you only need it oversized by a half inch or so in each direction (so it's inset into the dado 1/4" on all 4 sides). That isn't much extra and if you're gluing it to the back of the frame you'd need at least that much overhang if not more. And then you'll have to worry about the finish interfering with the glue joint. And if you're uncomfortable with the panel floating in the frame you can certainly glue it since it's plywood.
  8. Mine shipped pretty fast. I don't recall exact time but it was quick. Be sure to check it over as closely as possible when it's delivered. Mine arrived damaged - something had banged into the motor and dented the fan housing and cracked the fan. It wasn't shipped in a closed crate. Instead they put it on a small pallet and then added wood framing around it, plus heavy plastic sheeting. So unfortunately I couldn't see the damage until I got the whole thing unwrapped and started the assembly. Fortunately grizzly was great about getting it fixed. I didn't want to send the whole thing back, so I described the damage to them and they sent me replacement parts. I was able to repair it myself, though one of the screw holes for holding the fan cover to the main motor housing had torn out. So my fan cover is only held on with 2 screws instead of three. Doesn't seem to effect operation though. After a quick trip to the home center for a 220 plug and putting on a woodslicer blade I was up and running. This is my first bandsaw so I don't have a lot of basis for comparison but it's been great for me so far and I've been very happy with it. Hope you enjoy yours.
  9. A compass. Can be as simple as a piece of string with a nail on one end and a pencil on the other.
  10. Here's some pics of the bed I built. As I said, all 4/4 poplar. I used pocket holes to assemble the headboard and footboard (filled the holes before painting). And a simple no mortise connector for the rails. You can kinda see it in the last pic, but I didn't want to disassemble the whole thing for pictures.
  11. I would guess those are between 2 and 2.5" square. You could either rip down some 8/4-10/4 lumber or laminate up a few layers of regular 4/4 lumber and then square it up. I would do that as a single large frame and panel: cut a dado in the posts and rails for a plywood panel (1/2" birch or maple probably) and stub tenons in the rails. Not unlike an oversized cabinet door. Then just apply some thin strips of wood to the face of the panel with glue and brads to create the inset rectangle. Or do the whole thing as a false frame. Dado the plywood into the posts and apply strips to simulate rails and the inset rectangle. An off the rack moulding or a router bit along the inside of the rail should give you the profile seen there at the top and bottom of the panel. It may just be a round over with a shoulder. Then cap it with another hardwood board with a nice routed profile. Just glue would be fine, but you could screw it down to the rail or panel and plug the holes before painting if you wanted extra reinforcement. There also appears to be a drawer unit or a trundle bed underneath. I would suggest you build that as a separate unit if you want it at all.
  12. If it'll be painted I'd suggest poplar. It's inexpensive, lightweight, and paints well. I made my daughter's twin bed out of it and it has held up beautifully so far. It was a simple project: pocket screws to assemble the headboard and footboard and then no mortise rail connectors for the rails. The no mortise connectors are plenty strong and super easy to install. I don't have any pics handy but I'll snap some tomorrow if you'd like. Are you wanting 4x4 posts because of your design? That seems like it would look awfully heavy for a twin bed. It certainly isn't needed from a structural standpoint. The bed I mentioned was all 4/4 material, no laminations, and it is rock solid even when adults climb in and out. I like that it's relatively lightweight as my wife can move it easily out from the wall by herself when needed to clean up the kid's room. Just make sure to get your poplar from a hardwood dealer instead of a home center. The big box stores charge way too much for it and the quality is pretty poor too.
  13. Arm-r-seal has protected a couple of tables of mine from that exact thing very well.
  14. I bought and used the pad below with the safety strap on a dresser I refinished for my baby's room. The strap has an anchor that you can screw down to the table, wall, etc to keep it from going flying. If you run the screw in the underside of your tabletop it shouldn't be noticeable and would be easy to remove when the baby outgrows it. It isn't as secure as the tables with rails on all four sides, but it definitely helps. Your Velcro idea sounds good too if you can secure it well to the pad. It's amazing how much force a wriggling baby can exert! Oh, and congratulations Grandpa (or grandma?)! Is this your first?
  15. Looks nice, though how are you securing the pad to the top? I've got a 9 month old now who would send herself and the pad flying off of that with a single kick to the wall. Not trying to be critical, like I said its a great looking piece. Just want to make sure you've considered how to secure it.
  16. How would you join the panels? I've never tried joining multiple pieces of 1/4" ply. Box joints maybe?
  17. Dumb question perhaps, but I'm thinking about building a canvas covered gun case to transport my break action shotgun to and from the range. Something like this, which looks way classier in my mind than a plastic case. So anyway, the basic box needs to be strong and durable but as light as possible. Appearance doesn't matter since it'll be covered. I was thinking 3/8 or 1/2" Baltic birch ply would be the ideal material since it is strong, stable, and lightweight. But I was wondering if a lightweight solid wood like poplar would be stronger planed down to an equivalent thickness. Thoughts?
  18. 2 thoughts, first is you are probably less likely to notice grain misalignment on rift sawn lumber if you cross cut the piece at the hole, then do as others have suggested with a dado blade. Your subsequent glue up would require something to strengthen the joint like loose tenons since it'll be end grain to end grain. But I'm thinking the grain lines, if they are pretty straight, should line back up nicely. Or drill the hole and with a steady hand and a sharp blade use a fret saw to straighten it out.
  19. I love my domino 500 and use it a ton. The metric part isn't too big a deal. Just convert when you need to and it'll be fine. I rarely use the accessory that centers the machine on a narrow piece (like the ends of rails) and never use the one that extends out the stops. I bought the domino assortment of sizes and cutters and while that was expensive it was a nice deal and I'm quite glad I did. I have used almost all the sizes in one project or another and though I've used quite a few dominos I still have plenty left. Plus the organizer/systainer is quite nice. Whether it's worth it or not is pretty much the same decision as any other tool that takes a task and makes it faster/easier. As others have said, there are plenty of ways to accomplish the same thing with tools/jigs that you already have or are substantially cheaper. But nothing I've seen matches the speed, convenience, and ease of setup/use of the domino. Whether that convenience/speed is worth the price to you is a personal decision.
  20. PB, why? Is there any reason other than asthetic to cut the groove off center?
  21. Maybe to measure the thickness of the face veneer on home center plywood?
  22. Like others have mentioned I recognize that if I were to switch over to metric it would make most things much easier. A base 10 system that corresponds to other units in a simple, rational way just makes so much more sense. Converting units of length to volume, for example, is dead simple. And dividing measurements is also much easier. Halves and quarters aren't bad with fractions, but thirds sure can get complicated quickly. Splitting, say, 16 and 5/8" into three takes a bit to calculate out. And when I do I get 5 and 13/24. So then I have to round that to between 5 and 9/16 and 5 and 17/32 (since my marking tools don't measure in 24ths). But 42 cm or 422 mm divided by three isn't too bad to do in your head and easily done by a calculator. And rounding is easier too because I can round to the nearest cm, or mm, or whatever depending on how precise I have to be. All that being said, I still think in terms of imperial units and all my tools (except my domino) are in imperial. Lumber here is sold in imperial units, and all of my customers (that is, my wife and kids) use imperial units to describe what they want. So I use imperial and actually kinda hope for the day I'm forced to change over.
  23. That's true, to an extent. Power tool users also need to be able to work all three sides of a board though. There's a reason that the roubo derived design was, and still is, so popular amongst so many woodworkers who aren't hand tool only types. I'm obviously not saying that the op has to have a roubo, just that he should consider the functionality of his bench for its primary purpose: to hold workpieces. The types of work he does, the tools he likes to use, and the scale of the projects he works will all obviously play a role in what sort of workholding he needs.
  24. According to Christopher Schwarz, who literally wrote the book on workbenches, a bench needs to be able to hold boards securely to work their faces, edges, and ends. I'm not sure a hinged bench could do that, but if I were you that's where I'd focus my efforts. Perhaps look to the black and decker workmate and/or the festool MFT as examples of folding/portable workbenches that have numerous workholding options.