Richard Link

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About Richard Link

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 06/28/1967

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Houston, Texas
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture making, Box making, Integration of CNC and CAD/CAM into woodworking
  1. Beautiful work! Can you provide some more details on the top? Is the top solid mahogany with an inlayed border or is the entire top veneered?
  2. This is my rendition of the William and Mary bookstand published in the November 2010 Popular Woodworking. The original plan is courtesy of Charles Bender and the Acanthus Workshop. I ended up making several of these using different techniques to try things out. It was interesting to do the same steps several different ways: hand cut dovetails vs. machine cut dovetails, band sawn side profiles vs. template routed profiles, integral tenons vs. floating tenons, etc. This one is something I made for a charity auction. It's made of American Walnut with mortise and tenon and dovetail joinery, hand turned bun feet and a traditional shellac finish. For the finish, I basically put down a thin layer of dewaxed shellac and then sprayed 3 coats of Bullseye amber shellac diluted 1:3 and then toned with Transtint reddish brown dye. Surface leveled with a 500grit Festool pad. Final top coat is wax. This finish feels very nice to touch, has a pleasant color and the entire finish can be done in a day. I have not tried to give it an antique patina although I might fool around with that for the last one in production. If you are looking for a fun project to try out some techniques, this is a nice one. Thanks for looking. Richard
  3. LOL. I think the problem is that your idea is so clever that nobody has anything to add.... Please show us the final product and give us some feedback on how it works. R
  4. I would definitely get rid of the greasy stuff from the blades. I've never put wax on my planer blades in the past. I bet that stuff gets abraded off the blades PRETTY fast with the planer in use. Might be pointless. I suspect that the same might true for any rust if you use the planer frequently. Also, the blades are probably high speed steel so they may be more rust resistant than the usual cast iron stuff. One tip to consider is to blow off the wood dust and chips that might be left on the blades after you are done with the planer. Wood is hygroscopic and can accelerate rust if you leave it on the metal for a long period without use. R
  5. +1 to Paul-Marcel. Resaw is the way to go. Why turn your nice 5/4 stock into sawdust and chips when you can use the cutoffs for other projects? How close you can safely resaw to your finished size depends on how well set up your bandsaw is. If your saw is tuned for drift, etc. and your technique is good then you may be able to get close enough that only a few passes through the planer will be sufficient. If you have problems with uneven thickness off the bandsaw across your board than you will want to leave more meat to clean up on the planer. Aside from tuning up the bandsaw, super basic things that can help are: a. Have a tall fence on the bandsaw to provide support. b. A featherboard can also be helpful. c. Slow feed rates unless your saw is very powerful. d. Tune the saw for drift or, if that's an issue, draw a line on the side of the board and simply follow it as best you can. This second approach is why some resaw fences have a curved pivot point at the center to allow on the fly adjustment. e. Joint two adjacent faces before resawing to keep everything square. Have fun! R
  6. Jeff, I think it would help to know what you plan to do with it. Are you thicknessing a relatively small amount of wood for small projects or are you planning to push hundreds of board feet of hardwood through this thing? The Dewalt 735 (used to have it) was a nice machine for its purpose. It had the advantage of being easy to store under the table saw and came out as needed. Loud as heck but left a nice finish. On the other hand, its a bit underpowered for hogging off material in big hardwood boards and the tables are a bit short. If you envision surfacing a lot of material, a floor standing model might be a better investment. Another factor is consideration for a spiral head. Several floor standing and at least the Steel City lunchbox planer have a spiral head, which can be a big advantage. Buyer beware, however, as "spiral" heads are not all created equal. A good one (ie Shellix) is a lot quieter, leaves a great finish and can go a long time without changing the carbide inserts. Like the others said: cost, space and your needs will drive the decision. If you are looking for a lighter duty machine that can be stored away when not in use, however, the Dewalt is a nice choice. R
  7. I think that was a great idea. There is so much interesting stuff going on in this piece, particularly across the miters already. Keys would perhaps have overcomplicated it. What sort of problems did you have with the spalted maple? Did you end up having to stabilize it with CA glue or epoxy? R
  8. A few basic thought stimulators for you. You seem to have a well fleshed out structure in mind for the cabinet, which is a great starting point. You might want to rethink the plexiglass idea and consider using regular beveled glass. Unless the thing is going to be taking bullets, plexiglass is hard to make look good in my experience. From your description, I am envisioning something relatively fancy for storing his collectibles so glass would be a better fit. For inspiration, you might check out the woodcraft magazine plan for a collectible cabinet (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080869/30078/Collectors-Showcase--Downloadable-Plan.aspx). The April WoodCraft Magazine had this article. This isn't exactly what you were proposing but might have a few ideas in it. 20 x 14 x 20" with 6 or more trays is a pretty big and heavy case for lifting and putting onto something else like a table or shelf. This might be better given its own dedicated legs or perhaps constructed in the "case on a stand" type of design. Maybe even integrate some type of nice quality furniture grade castor (eg http://houseofantiquehardware.com) into the legs so he can move it around to show people the contents. How about a locking mechanism? How about integral lighting for the top compartment? How do you envision lining the trays? flocking? Felt? etc. That April WoodCraft Magazine had a nice article, as well, about lining drawers with fabric that would might be useful. Sounds like a very fun project. Please keep us in the loop as it evolves. R
  9. Black tuxedo....rented if possible. Those polyester blend rented tuxedos are like plate armor - impervious to anything - sawdust, glue, kickbacks, etc. Stick to bow ties though so you don't get pulled into a machine or something. In all seriousness, when I had a non-air conditioned garage in Houston, it was tough. Pretty much as little covering as you could get away with and not lose an important part. You could easily lose a couple of lbs of water just working in the afternoon. With the current air conditioning, its just shorts and a T-shirt. No apron for a lot of reasons, not the least of which is that it looks mighty disturbing with shorts....at least on a guy. Does anyone else think "coed naked woodworking" with most of the woodworkers you've seen would, to put it delicately, get poor television ratings? R
  10. Alas, they aren't available online. Your local PBS station may be playing the program and they run repeats all the time. R
  11. Nice job on those. I particularly like the zebrawood and Wenge version. I'm a bit biased against purpleheart but I love me some Wenge. You took on some challenges there though what with cut zebrawood being smelly and cut Wenge being splintery. All in all, excellent job!
  12. I'd agree with the other posters that protecting your electronics isn't as big a deal as you might expect. I have several computers in my shop and neither is in a dust-free enclosure. I simply vacuum them out a couple times a year and all is well. Now you may be in a slightly different situation if you are using electronics that have mechanical parts and read optical media all the time. A bunch of sawdust inside your DVD player is probably not going to be good for reading disks. For solid state stuff like ipods, radios, etc. I wouldn't be too worried. R
  13. You might want to check out the most recent episode of the Woodsmith show. They are doing a cabinet made of plywood with doors on tracks made of hardwood. Pretty easy to set up and might be applicable to your piece. R
  14. Hmm...I guess that's a good question. Things I might do differently next time: 1. Get rid of the metal drawer slides and go with either well fit wooden runners or dust frames. 2. Consider switching from a solid wood glued up top to perhaps something veneered. I'm a bit concerned about the top warping in the future, but we shall see. 3. I'd like the top to have been slightly thicker and to have had the grain flow across the entire top rather than just in the central section. This would have required longer 5/4 starting material, though. That's about it. Otherwise, I'm pretty satisfied with it. This is definitely not a two year project if you just stick with it. It took me a long time because I kept losing interest or getting distracted with other projects. If you are focused, it shouldn't take too long. R
  15. Thanks. No worries. I know where you are coming from. I never want to see another sewing cabinet as long as I live.... This thing has literally been languishing in my workshop for months and months waiting to be finished. Mom is patient but I think she is contemplating putting a hit out on me if I don't get this thing delivered soon.