Richard Link

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About Richard Link

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 06/28/1967

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Houston, Texas
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture making, Box making, Integration of CNC and CAD/CAM into woodworking, laser
  1. There are many ways to finish cherry. When dealing with a dining room table, you have to consider whether you want a very durable surface finish that will resist stains and solvents (like polyurethane) or something that will require renewal when it gets damaged (oil based). Oils can be a bit challenging with cherry in some cases as there can be blotching. Also consider the fact that the cherry will change color over time if it sees sunlight - generally getting darker. In my personal opinion (take that for what it is worth), I don't favor staining cherry. It's a beautiful wood that develops a l
  2. Beautiful work! Can you provide some more details on the top? Is the top solid mahogany with an inlayed border or is the entire top veneered?
  3. This is my rendition of the William and Mary bookstand published in the November 2010 Popular Woodworking. The original plan is courtesy of Charles Bender and the Acanthus Workshop. I ended up making several of these using different techniques to try things out. It was interesting to do the same steps several different ways: hand cut dovetails vs. machine cut dovetails, band sawn side profiles vs. template routed profiles, integral tenons vs. floating tenons, etc. This one is something I made for a charity auction. It's made of American Walnut with mortise and tenon and dovetail joiner
  4. LOL. I think the problem is that your idea is so clever that nobody has anything to add.... Please show us the final product and give us some feedback on how it works. R
  5. I would definitely get rid of the greasy stuff from the blades. I've never put wax on my planer blades in the past. I bet that stuff gets abraded off the blades PRETTY fast with the planer in use. Might be pointless. I suspect that the same might true for any rust if you use the planer frequently. Also, the blades are probably high speed steel so they may be more rust resistant than the usual cast iron stuff. One tip to consider is to blow off the wood dust and chips that might be left on the blades after you are done with the planer. Wood is hygroscopic and can accelerate rust if you leav
  6. +1 to Paul-Marcel. Resaw is the way to go. Why turn your nice 5/4 stock into sawdust and chips when you can use the cutoffs for other projects? How close you can safely resaw to your finished size depends on how well set up your bandsaw is. If your saw is tuned for drift, etc. and your technique is good then you may be able to get close enough that only a few passes through the planer will be sufficient. If you have problems with uneven thickness off the bandsaw across your board than you will want to leave more meat to clean up on the planer. Aside from tuning up the bandsaw, super ba
  7. Jeff, I think it would help to know what you plan to do with it. Are you thicknessing a relatively small amount of wood for small projects or are you planning to push hundreds of board feet of hardwood through this thing? The Dewalt 735 (used to have it) was a nice machine for its purpose. It had the advantage of being easy to store under the table saw and came out as needed. Loud as heck but left a nice finish. On the other hand, its a bit underpowered for hogging off material in big hardwood boards and the tables are a bit short. If you envision surfacing a lot of material, a floor st
  8. I think that was a great idea. There is so much interesting stuff going on in this piece, particularly across the miters already. Keys would perhaps have overcomplicated it. What sort of problems did you have with the spalted maple? Did you end up having to stabilize it with CA glue or epoxy? R
  9. A few basic thought stimulators for you. You seem to have a well fleshed out structure in mind for the cabinet, which is a great starting point. You might want to rethink the plexiglass idea and consider using regular beveled glass. Unless the thing is going to be taking bullets, plexiglass is hard to make look good in my experience. From your description, I am envisioning something relatively fancy for storing his collectibles so glass would be a better fit. For inspiration, you might check out the woodcraft magazine plan for a collectible cabinet (
  10. Black tuxedo....rented if possible. Those polyester blend rented tuxedos are like plate armor - impervious to anything - sawdust, glue, kickbacks, etc. Stick to bow ties though so you don't get pulled into a machine or something. In all seriousness, when I had a non-air conditioned garage in Houston, it was tough. Pretty much as little covering as you could get away with and not lose an important part. You could easily lose a couple of lbs of water just working in the afternoon. With the current air conditioning, its just shorts and a T-shirt. No apron for a lot of reasons, not the least of
  11. Alas, they aren't available online. Your local PBS station may be playing the program and they run repeats all the time. R
  12. Nice job on those. I particularly like the zebrawood and Wenge version. I'm a bit biased against purpleheart but I love me some Wenge. You took on some challenges there though what with cut zebrawood being smelly and cut Wenge being splintery. All in all, excellent job!
  13. I'd agree with the other posters that protecting your electronics isn't as big a deal as you might expect. I have several computers in my shop and neither is in a dust-free enclosure. I simply vacuum them out a couple times a year and all is well. Now you may be in a slightly different situation if you are using electronics that have mechanical parts and read optical media all the time. A bunch of sawdust inside your DVD player is probably not going to be good for reading disks. For solid state stuff like ipods, radios, etc. I wouldn't be too worried. R
  14. You might want to check out the most recent episode of the Woodsmith show. They are doing a cabinet made of plywood with doors on tracks made of hardwood. Pretty easy to set up and might be applicable to your piece. R
  15. Hmm...I guess that's a good question. Things I might do differently next time: 1. Get rid of the metal drawer slides and go with either well fit wooden runners or dust frames. 2. Consider switching from a solid wood glued up top to perhaps something veneered. I'm a bit concerned about the top warping in the future, but we shall see. 3. I'd like the top to have been slightly thicker and to have had the grain flow across the entire top rather than just in the central section. This would have required longer 5/4 starting material, though. That's about it. Otherwise, I'm pretty sa