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About BrandonD

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 04/07/1989

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  • Location
    Central Florida
  • Woodworking Interests
    All, in the pursuit of making anything a step above sawdust :-)

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  1. I'm working with cherry for the first time on my largest project -- queen size Murphy bed with a couple bookcases. I cut out most of the (cherry veneered) plywood parts and had them stacked in the shop for a couple weeks. As you can see some of the parts darkened from UV where they weren't covered by another. How do I address this? If I put all the parts outside will it even out or will it all just get darker at the same rate? I am going to be applying several coats of Arm-R-Seal. Will the cherry continue to darken even after it's finished? I hope so... I like it darker, just not unevenly
  2. Quick update... very busy these days, so it took a while to get out there. I took the belts off and grabbed ahold of the pulley on the motor shaft to see if it had any play. It came right off so easy like it was lubricated. I couldn't find the square key... it's long gone. No telling how long that's been running without a key... hard to imagine but if it didn't have a key as long as a year ago when I first had this problem... and I've really pushed that saw... Looked around at some hardware stores and couldn't find anything. The key is metric and they only had imperial keys. So it's on order.
  3. Thanks guys. I'll take a look soon, probably tonight. I have a feeling this isn't going to be easy since the access to the pulley is limited.
  4. I have about an 18 month old Grizzly G0690 table saw. Probably about 4-6 months after I received it I experienced what I'd describe as the belts slipping -- on start up, the motor would start up loud and strong but the belts would only occasionally (and barely) catch on the pulley and spin the blade a bit. Figuring it was the new belts loosening up, I tensioned them by loosening the bolts on the motor mount, pushing down on the motor and securing the bolts. Started back up with no issue. Fast forward to a few weeks ago. Using it a lot with a whole house flooring project. I get the belt slippin
  5. Go to your Notification Settings from your user drop down (top right), uncheck the box "Automatically follow content I reply to" and save. Alternatively, you can leave it checked and tweak the settings below that so that you only get it in your notification list and not an email.
  6. Nice to see you've started and have gotten so far. Keep us updated.
  7. I had an old receiver hooked up to a sub and speakers that I mounted and ran through the ceiling. The receiver died some time ago. Now I mostly just use my phone for music.
  8. I have a set of Norton water stones and a Veritas honing guide that I've used with my chisels.
  9. Not much progress today... I may go out this evening again and get to work on the tenon. I got out there earlier and cut the slabs to length using my miter. I thought I could get through the rear slab entirely but it left maybe 1/2"-3/4" of material at the far corner. Used a flush trim saw to cut it through and it doesn't require any cleanup. Then got to work outside on the yard... that'll be delaying progress as I have a lot of yard work to take care of and my wife is really wanting me to build a deck and walkway around and to the pool.
  10. Yes, the tenon is for the end cap. The saw is used to finish revealing the tenon where the circular saw cannot cut all the way through. I may just utilize a thin flush trim saw I have to get it proud of the cut line and use a LA block plane and chisel to get it up to the line.
  11. Part of the tenon construction requires a handsaw. I don't own a good handsaw. Any recommendations?
  12. Thanks all for the advice. I decided to joint as much of the slab as I can and then carpet taped a piece of plywood to the jointed side and ran it through the planer. Seemed to work well. Now I have a shiny 1 3/4 bit for the final flattening. Both slabs to 4"... now to cut what I can to length and start to work on the vise/end cap. I should be able to cut these in one swipe on my miter saw.
  13. Thanks guys. I went ahead and ordered the recommended 1 3/4" wide bit for flattening the top in case I decide to go that method. I am leaning towards it because I need to build the sled anyway. However I'm not sure I want to put that bit to work until the very end, I'd like it as fresh and sharp as it can be for the final flattening. If I don't do the sled for this portion I'll probably do the jointer + sheet good + planer method.