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About MHRestorations

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    Southern Illinois
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture stripping, staining, and finishing with Maplehill Restorations. Lots of reclaimed wood projects for customers.

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  1. Alan - Ideally we would go waterborne because we are around this stuff all day every day. But we also don't want to sacrifice on durability. Tom - Good point there. I've not read anything where folks have recommended not going HVLP with this type of precat lacquer, but I'll do some more searching.
  2. That is fantastic. Can't thank ya enough!
  3. I've been doing some research on professional grade cabinet finishing strategies, and a lot has come up on using Pre-Catalyzed, Pigmented Lacquers in place of paint. I know the advantages/disadvanteges etc, but I cannot find a place to purchase online. Do I purchase the lacquer not yet tinted, and have it tinted to a custom color somewhere locally? I've got limited knowledge on how to get it, so any and all help is appreciated!
  4. Sounds to me like oak slabs are more work than they are worth.... Thanks all for moisture test recommendations. I think my best plan of action at this point is to live with the 1/4" cup in the middle, and let the customer know that it could continue to move (potentially in either direction, correct?) once it is in his home.
  5. We don't have a moisture meter in the shop, but sounds like we will need to get one. Any recommendations on what brand/model to go with? K Cooper it is currently sitting on two separate carts, so it is elevated with plenty of space for air circulation. I wish I could say that was the reason I put it on the carts, but I'm not that smart yet!
  6. @Bmac I've taken off right around 3/8 off the top. The side has such a large ridge in the middle (in addition to being slightly cupped) that there was a lot of material to be removed. I haven't had the help to flip it at all yet, so I may do that, take the belt sander to the rough side, which should allow some moisture to escape that direction as well. Then flip it back over, clamp the sucker down and let it sit for a bit?
  7. If I flip it now (with the help of 3 other guys) and remove some material from the other side, will it improve or hurt the situation?
  8. That's good to know. I have a general understanding of wood drying principles, but the specifics are good to see. So let me ask another question: what would you do now with this slab? The customer and I decided to flatten only one side to save as much thickness on the piece as possible, and a table base being made for this would account for any height differences on the underneath side.
  9. I have a kiln-dried oak slab sitting at 11 feet long, 4 feet wide (at it's widest point) and an original thickness of 2 3/4". I built the popular router sled flattening system, and it worked like a dream. I had it dead flat on Friday all across the top. It is now the following Thursday, and there is just over a quarter inch of cup in the middle of the board. This slab was kiln dried, sat in the customers barn (out of the elements, but not temp controlled) for 4 months, then in my temperature controlled shop for a month before I started flattening it. The other thing that is confusing to me, is that when I started working on the slab, the side opposite the one I am working on is what had the cup in it. Anyone ever deal with an issue similar to this in the past?
  10. Sure can't. That looks really good. When you ripped down the middle, was there still some cupping on each half? I believe I would still have a little left to take care of.
  11. I have a 16" wide walnut board with a lot of cupping. Sending this through the planer is not an option. Wondering if ripping it down the middle, joining the edges and glueing up as a panel would be an option? This is for a shelf, and unfortunately it came out of the kiln like this when I picked it up from my supplier.
  12. Nothing special obviously, but here is what I put together. Thanks for all the input. If possible I'd like to avoid having to add any angle iron to it, but not against it completely. Router is a basic Skil combo base. Around 15 lbs. Current height of my walls are 3". Glued and screwed the bottom up into the walls.
  13. I've built a used the router sled for flattening slabs made famous by Nick Offerman a few years back. Multiple YouTube videos now on how to build them correctly, including one by Marc. Im having an issue with mine that I've not seen addressed in any of the videos that I've found. I have a 4 foot wide slab in the shop, which means my sled is about 5 feet long. Im having issues with the sled sagging in the middle from the weight of the router, causing a slight dip in the slab in the middle. Im not pressing down with any more or less force in the middle vs the ends, so I think I need to make a change to the structure of the sled (all made with 3/4" ply). Anyone have a similar issue or know what I might do to fix this? Thanks guys!
  14. Probably go with two for this size door? Also, what type of hinge should I have to go along with that?