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Everything posted by MHRestorations

  1. Hello, Ive got a new grizzly jointer with mobile base. I’m running a 9 foot piece of oak through the jointer on edge. When I get about halfway through the board, the jointer begins to move as well (same direction the board is moving). Is there something wrong with my setup? The jointer table is not level with the ground bc I raised the adjustable legs enough to minimize contact between the ground and the locking wheel when the jointer is in stationary position. Any tips and pointers would be appreciated. Thanks!
  2. Alan - Ideally we would go waterborne because we are around this stuff all day every day. But we also don't want to sacrifice on durability. Tom - Good point there. I've not read anything where folks have recommended not going HVLP with this type of precat lacquer, but I'll do some more searching.
  3. That is fantastic. Can't thank ya enough!
  4. I've been doing some research on professional grade cabinet finishing strategies, and a lot has come up on using Pre-Catalyzed, Pigmented Lacquers in place of paint. I know the advantages/disadvanteges etc, but I cannot find a place to purchase online. Do I purchase the lacquer not yet tinted, and have it tinted to a custom color somewhere locally? I've got limited knowledge on how to get it, so any and all help is appreciated!
  5. Sounds to me like oak slabs are more work than they are worth.... Thanks all for moisture test recommendations. I think my best plan of action at this point is to live with the 1/4" cup in the middle, and let the customer know that it could continue to move (potentially in either direction, correct?) once it is in his home.
  6. We don't have a moisture meter in the shop, but sounds like we will need to get one. Any recommendations on what brand/model to go with? K Cooper it is currently sitting on two separate carts, so it is elevated with plenty of space for air circulation. I wish I could say that was the reason I put it on the carts, but I'm not that smart yet!
  7. @Bmac I've taken off right around 3/8 off the top. The side has such a large ridge in the middle (in addition to being slightly cupped) that there was a lot of material to be removed. I haven't had the help to flip it at all yet, so I may do that, take the belt sander to the rough side, which should allow some moisture to escape that direction as well. Then flip it back over, clamp the sucker down and let it sit for a bit?
  8. If I flip it now (with the help of 3 other guys) and remove some material from the other side, will it improve or hurt the situation?
  9. That's good to know. I have a general understanding of wood drying principles, but the specifics are good to see. So let me ask another question: what would you do now with this slab? The customer and I decided to flatten only one side to save as much thickness on the piece as possible, and a table base being made for this would account for any height differences on the underneath side.
  10. I have a kiln-dried oak slab sitting at 11 feet long, 4 feet wide (at it's widest point) and an original thickness of 2 3/4". I built the popular router sled flattening system, and it worked like a dream. I had it dead flat on Friday all across the top. It is now the following Thursday, and there is just over a quarter inch of cup in the middle of the board. This slab was kiln dried, sat in the customers barn (out of the elements, but not temp controlled) for 4 months, then in my temperature controlled shop for a month before I started flattening it. The other thing that is confusing to me
  11. Sure can't. That looks really good. When you ripped down the middle, was there still some cupping on each half? I believe I would still have a little left to take care of.
  12. I have a 16" wide walnut board with a lot of cupping. Sending this through the planer is not an option. Wondering if ripping it down the middle, joining the edges and glueing up as a panel would be an option? This is for a shelf, and unfortunately it came out of the kiln like this when I picked it up from my supplier.
  13. Nothing special obviously, but here is what I put together. Thanks for all the input. If possible I'd like to avoid having to add any angle iron to it, but not against it completely. Router is a basic Skil combo base. Around 15 lbs. Current height of my walls are 3". Glued and screwed the bottom up into the walls.
  14. I've built a used the router sled for flattening slabs made famous by Nick Offerman a few years back. Multiple YouTube videos now on how to build them correctly, including one by Marc. Im having an issue with mine that I've not seen addressed in any of the videos that I've found. I have a 4 foot wide slab in the shop, which means my sled is about 5 feet long. Im having issues with the sled sagging in the middle from the weight of the router, causing a slight dip in the slab in the middle. Im not pressing down with any more or less force in the middle vs the ends, so I think I need to make
  15. Probably go with two for this size door? Also, what type of hinge should I have to go along with that?
  16. Building an outdoor TV Cabinet for a customer. The door is of substantial weight (25-30 lbs) and they want it to swing up when open. The door needs to open past 90 degrees, probably closer to 110 or so. Searching for the best type of hinges for this project. Any recommendations? Thanks!
  17. Ive done a little bit of research on bits for this purpose, but seems to not be much consensus on the best options. Anyone have any brand/size they prefer? My router has a 1/4" collet and is 2.25 HP. I'm assuming that will change how large of a bit I should be using since it isn't a high power router.
  18. So, thanks to the help in here, we've made some really good progress on fixing the jig. Things had apparently started to twist on me without me realizing it, so I've added some bracing where necessary, and I'm pleased with how it is turning out. After making a few passes this morning, I took some mineral spirits to clean it up and see how it would look with finish on it. I did some light sanding to lessen the router marks, but as you can see the pass lines are still visible. Outside of a large drum sander, is there any other alternative other than lots of sanding to remove these lines? Any
  19. Some flex in the jig was my first thought, as this is the first jig like this I've taken a whack at. I can see why some flex would cause the uneven pass, but would it also cause the bit to take more material on a second pass? Perhaps I should borrow a much nicer router from a friend and see if it does any better in the same situation?
  20. I slid the bit out so that the end of it was not all the way down in the collet. That removed the huge amounts of movement in bit depth, so thank you for that comment. Really appreciate it! Now that I've got the bit staying consistent, I'm getting what looks to be about 1/32 "lip" on one side of the path after making a pass with the router. When I make one pass, I can go right back over the same exact spot and the bit seems to want to take a little more material on the second pass. That would be fine, but it is still leaving this uneven surface. Is this just a normal thing or is there so
  21. I've had the SKIL 1830 combo for a year or so now. I've been having issues of the bit slipping and going deeper into the wood on long passes. Over a 30 inch pass it can lower as much as 1/16th of an inch. Ive cleaned the bit shaft, and no debris is in the collet. Thoughts on how to fix the issue, other than purchasing a better router?
  22. I agree, unfortunately the nearest service center listed on their website is about a 3 hour drive for me. Thanks for the reminder on the warranty! That will be my next plan of attack.