treeslayer

I did/have messed up, I’m just not telling anybody

next was over to the mortise machine to put in 2 1/4 X 1/4 by 5/8” deep mortise and one in the center 1/4” by 1/2” long in the center, over to the router to remove the material in the center (underneath) at 1/2” depth, several passes and depth adjustments got this done, this will allow light to shine thru and also serve as a vent for the heat

I started with a 4” square piece 3/4 thick, used the dado to put a 1/4” by 5/8” deep groove a 1/4” down from the top then over to the TS and put a 30 degree bevel on the bottom. I started a little big and snuck up on it to get a good fit, works well because I was not taking off any material from the very top and could reference it against the fence

got back in the lamps today after a weekend of working on other woodworking projects. I removed the clamps on the shades and put a rabbit on the inside for the glass and glued the 4 sides together, next was dealing with the top in the center top of the shade, you can see they are at a 30 degree angle

You read my mind, they do make a 22 1/2 degree but that I think would work I just haven’t gotten around to buying one yet, great idea

i'll give it a shot Coop next time i do one, i'm not the best at journals as you can see but i sure like to follow along

Thanks Steve, i use the micro adjust on the Incra to sneak up on it then run all one side, change the set up and do the other side, its not too bad if you pay attention to what you're doing but still a little scary especially on the first couple of cuts.

I do too, and then my thoughts go to how can I no it better-faster-easier

i've been thinking the same thing for a corner lamp in the same design for behind our chair in the corner, i was thinking a tri-pod base but i haven't had much time to think about that project yet.

Just a dry fit Gary, they get a 3/8 X 1/4 inch rabbit

Thanks @pkinneb, these dimensions are all OAL, bottom is 14 1/4, the sides are 8 and the top is 5”. There is a “skirt” for lack of a better word that is added to the bottom of the shade to allow for clearance for the light fixture and that piece is 2 1/2” and has to have a bevel to match the shade

those cuts are nerve wracking for sure, one slip and you start all over. I could, should make a special sled for those cuts but I don’t make enough of them to make it worth while. anyway, success! next is to rabbit the inside for the glass

So here’s the set up to cut the 22 1/2 degree angles on the left and right sides. blade at 22 1/2 set with the Wixley, sides square to the blade

50/50 I think on making them smooth, more work for you but I know you ain’t scared of work, once they are stained I don’t think many people would notice, oh, and just wish I had you for a neighbor

Thanks Coop, I designed it myself and in the spirit of full disclosure I’ve made about 7 of these so far, lots of trial and more error refining the design over the last builds. Cherry ones with rosewood inlay, oak with walnut inlay. I had a request to do a journal from another member as he wanted to see the process and I’ve been wanting to build another pair for about a year.