twodeuce

Members
  • Content Count

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About twodeuce

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    Doors, cabinets, misc, projects

Recent Profile Visitors

670 profile views
  1. Good point. It is a dedicated router.
  2. Just curious what others experiences are. I am going to purchase a CNC soon. I have a router table now and was thinking I might sell it to recover shop space when I get it delivered. Most jobs seem redundant except routing dovetails and box joints - which I could get a Leigh jig or similar that takes up less space. Am I missing something? So, anyone still use their router table after they purchased their CNC? thanks!
  3. If your oil stain has pigments, the "blotching" will be more intensified. you won't get much noticeable difference with Charles Neil's stuff than you would with your shellac. I wouldn't waste my time there if you have already sealed. You will never totally control botching with Alder, Maple, etc. you just hope to minimize it. there is a good thread on dye staining above this one. I would check it out. i spray multiple light coats of dye only and get good results. If controlling it is a must, you would use a sealer first (shellac is fine), sand it back, spray or wipe your dye, then build your top coats. you can also "tint" your topcoats with dye stain. I.e. Adding the dye to your lacquer or poly. Either of those should give you acceptable results.
  4. I have that Lowes PC drill press. It has ran for roughly 4 years without a hitch so far. I've run 3 1/4" Forster bits no problem with it. I yanked out the belts and replaced them with link belts - that made a huge difference. Careful to note that the belts are a smaller size than what you can get at Woodcraft for table saws. I think it's 3/8". Had to order them off eBay. also had to shim the middle pulley up with a couple of washers as it wasn't parallel with the other two. all things you can expect from a drill press at this price point. runout has been acceptable with stock chuck. you will definitely want to make a table for it... For the $, it has done well for me.
  5. I agree with moving slow. I have the RO 90 and RO 150. I have the suction on max all the time and (hopefully it continues) never get pigtails. My experience is to slow way down and watch angulation. If I start tipping instead of keeping the sander surface dead flat, I can see pigtails.
  6. Thank you. I feel I do most of that. Could always be better I'm sure...and I had thought of getting a power feeder. Good call there. I was more thinking of the larger bits and better entry angles larger bits would give.
  7. I have a tricked out router table. Cast iron top, Incra fence, PC 3 hp router...but I have never used a shaper before. I have used the RT for over 5 years, but never been completely satisfied with the cuts I get on moulding and profiles. I use sharp whiteside or infinity router bits 1/2 shank almost always. My point is, I feel I have maxed out what I can do with the router table for profiles and such (obviously over the top cuts are no go with shaper). So 2 part question, 1. Do shaper cutters with 3/4" bores give a noticeably better surface than router bits? 2. I'm not opposed to going bigger to 1 1/4" bore...is the difference significant over 3/4"? If not, I could save $ and stay with the smaller shaper. I appreciate opinions on the matter. If I do go with a shaper, I will keep my router table. Also weighing between the grizzly 3 hp and their 5 hp models (with the predominantly 3/4 and 11/4 bore respectively). Would also welcome opinions on those machines as well (from current or former owners). I know many aren't grizzly fans, but I am. Thanks in advance!
  8. Jerry, I do 3 degrees on strike and hinge sides. Usually give myself an 1/8" reveal. good idea with saw and guide. I use the Festool Ts75. been doing this for a long time and knock on...well, wood... No call backs.
  9. Like others have said. Lots of possibilities. you have gone from 1/2" to a smaller blade. Did you release the tension every time you used it? If not, tires may form a slight indention over time. I dont think overtightening is your issue... if you haven't bumped or banged it, it has to be your tires. if you sense that's the case, there are videos out there that show you how to sand them smooth.
  10. On a serious note. Aniline dyes come with a warning of causing bladder cancer. At least TransTint does. I suit up for it like I do for spraying conversion varnish, i.e. I don't mess around. i totally understand it was unintentional and accidents happen, just throwing this out there.
  11. I gave up long ago on a mass produced CMS coming with an accurate setup. I do my own "floor" and fence out of 3/4 MDF. By gluing an "L" shape. You can then shim and adjust as needed. been a lot happier camper since then.
  12. Something to consider. I see you are at 5 coats of poly. Possibly more now. You might check the can for thickness limits. I spray lacquer and 2k poly. I don't go over 4 dry mils with lacquer and 8 with poly. You risk cracking the finish. I don't know what poly you are spraying or what time frame you have, but I would think after 5 coats you could let it cure a couple weeks and it would rub out amazing.
  13. This is my wheelhouse. I would do Stave cores for your stiles. Resaw your good pieces of fir and glue on with unibond 800 or some other veneer glue. Frame and panel any large areas. Definitely agree with tempered glass. You using existing jamb?
  14. I weighed this myself. Read all kinds if stuff where it may not be necessary and so on. It came down to this. If my shop catches on fire, the insurance man is going to look at whether it was an explosion proof fan or not. I elected to spend the extra money and cover my backside. To each their own.
  15. Sorry buddy. Maybe it's because I'm looking at it on my phone, but having a tough time figuring out what you're asking. L shaped shelf...with bevel cuts?