Immortan D

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Everything posted by Immortan D

  1. Yes I can slide it to that position. But if it's just for that purpose seems like overkill to me, I mean a short piece of wood clamped to the fence is all that is required.
  2. The attachment has a t-track and the fence has 3 holes for the included bolts.
  3. Thanks for the info. My table saw came with an L-shaped aluminum fence attachment. I always thought it was an L-fence... now I know it's not, since the height cannot be adjusted. I don't know what is it good for.
  4. "They'll be dry enough by the time for them to go up", at first I thought he was talking about number two.
  5. 100 yards from your home? I'd plan for a toilet in your new shop, especially if you have a coworker or two.
  6. I don't have a sawzall either, but I did buy a Dewalt cordless angle grinder with two included 18v batteries and charger just because it was only $20 more expensive than getting just the batteries.
  7. Use your drill in hammer mode and make sure the tip of the bit is in contact with the tile when you start drilling. Watch your angle, it must be very close to 90º when you start drilling. I use Bosch multiconstruction drill bits for tiles (they have blue stripes). As most construction drill bits, they have tungsten carbide particles on the tip (also known as Widia).
  8. Just google the comments on this and the other threads where this "new member" has posted. Try with his comment on the "Protecting Lumber While it Seasons" topic... And about his comment on this thread, see https://updweller.com/tool-reviews/orbital-vs-palm-sander/. He basically copied and pasted sentences from that blog post.
  9. People and their phones.
  10. Very impressive Ross, I wish I had your patience and commitment!
  11. I'm not sure I like them, but google silestone integrity sinks.
  12. Yup. The picture from the Jet website shows something in there: (part #70412H)
  13. I think Pop rivets will outlast those plastic handles anyways and you can install them in a split second. I wouldn't spend the extra time and effort setting pins.
  14. A question for @difalkner. He made his own super pro CNC machine a while back:
  15. It can be done but it's not as easy as with conventional planes. You need to fine tune the pressure on your lever cap in order to do that, without tightening it to much. Now the lever cap will become loose over time, especially after retracting the blade... And that sucks.
  16. A bit late to the party but merry Christmas to everyone
  17. I have the LN one and it's a nice general purpose hand plane. I don't like the Norris style adjuster on LV planes, but YMMV.
  18. The red thing is a Woodpeckers ruler stop. The beading blades are scrapers, all they usually need is a couple of passes laying flat on a honing stone. You may need a ceramic stick or a dowel with sandpaper if you have to touch or clean the profiles, but I haven't used them enough to need that.
  19. I made a holder for my beading tool blades. Each slot can hold upto 3 blades.
  20. If you have a DIY table saw without miter slots, you may want that contraption. If your miter slots are not parallel to your saw blade and you do not know how to fix that, ditto.
  21. Looks like more 3D printed crap.
  22. Nice markers! I once made a similar one but the CA glue didn't last. It came apart after a few uses. So recently I made a new one using wood for the top part and epoxy for glue. I don't think this one is going to come apart, seems pretty sturdy, but time will tell.