Pete Staehling

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Everything posted by Pete Staehling

  1. Do you have a picture of how you chucked them? Just curious...
  2. I found the pancake model that I had to be a total fail. If I were to list it's faults, it would be a long list. Other models may be better, but I think most shops will find a need for a bigger better compressor. I have been much happier with my California Air Tools 10020C. It is quiet and works flawlessly. I have it set up to run only when the lights are on in the shop. If anything I'd go bigger, but it is a pretty nice compressor for a small shop.
  3. One thing that wasn't mentioned... Before doing anything to the sled, I'd try just not pushing down on the router. Take light cuts and let the weight of the router provide most if not all of the downward pressure on the sled.
  4. I have never seen that with the oil I use. Is it possible that it came from dust settling on wet excess oil? Maybe try wiping off the excess more thoroughly at application time and again in the next hour or two? FWIW, I use Gulf Coast Tung Oil. He is a local grower and producer of tung oil trying to revive the production of tung oil here on the gulf coast. The product is top quality.
  5. Looks like not to far from the size I buy to shoot out of my slingshot. Maybe someone is taking pot shots at your shop. Just kidding, sort of any way. If I had to bet, I'd bet on a detent or similar function. FWIW, I wouldn't lose a moment of sleep worrying over it. I sure wouldn't be taking stuff apart to figure it out. Set it aside and enjoy your shop.
  6. Wood, rubber, and dead blow all have very different properties and are far from interchangeable IMO. That said I'll add another choice that I use and like... I find my rawhide mallet to be very useful too.
  7. Just food for thought, but... Things like a spindle sander or a 12" disc sander don't benefit as much from the application of more money as most tools. For example the various inexpensive bench top spindle sanders are all pretty good. Just as an example of the kind of tool that has some minimal standard that has to be met to make it a good tool... Even Harbor Freight sells a pretty nice 12" disc sander is a real work horse. I like mine enough that I have no desire to replace it with anything better. If I were to upgrade my Triton spindle sander I'd probably be thinking of getting an edge sander and even then would keep the Triton. I don't claim to know your specific usage, so maybe a real production heavy duty tool is required. I just have a hard time imagining that being the case in anything but a high production commercial shop.
  8. I have found that the lumber yards that are likely to treat you the way you describe are the ones that sell lumber mostly to the construction industry or other largish commercial customers. They are not the kind of place that I want to shop for lumber. They are usually selling big lots of lumber mostly not in the species that I am interested in. At the other end of the spectrum are places that sell hardwoods to hobby woodworkers and charge really high prices while usually having a selection of small quantities of a variety of species at a premium price. Some of these are also tool suppliers like Woodcraft. These are not my choice either. I find that there are lumber mills that have a variety of hardwoods at decent prices who sell to small buyers as a major portion of their customers. Some are a one man or family operation. Before I moved south there were a lot of these within an hour drive of home in Amish country (SE Pennsylvania). They had a great stock and were good to deal with. Prices were fair. Depending on the region they will be fewer and further between, but they should be available in your area, maybe with a day trip to shop. I don't know your area well, but a google search would likely turn up several family run or one man mills that are within an hour drive. I am sometimes willing to make an overnight trip to somewhere to lumber shop. I'd even go to Groff and Groff or Hearns in SE PA if they weren't 1000 miles away from here. I will sometimes even go that far if I can figure out a way for the trip to have more than one purpose, in my case visiting family in Maryland is a good excuse for a stop in SE PA. I might also look up sawmills when I travel for backpacking trips or other recreational activities.
  9. If it was me I'd rather have the space open than split it that way and in those proportions. It doesn't look very workable if you will have projects of much size. I did use a wall across the back in my two car garage shop to create a 6' deep laundry/storage area. Depending on what you are storing in the other side maybe shelves would accommodate much of it and if not I'd suggest doing as I did and adding a big shed to get the other stuff out of the shop. I have 16" deep shelves floor to ceiling on close to half of the wall space and added a largish shed to get a lot of the non-shop stuff out of the shop. Between the laundry/storage room, the shed, and putting some non shop stuff on the less easily accessible shelf space I wind up with a nice workable 18'x18' space dedicated to the shop.
  10. There are some three or four wheeled bandsaws that have a much deeper throat than the wheel diameter would be with a two wheeler. I am not sure if any are currently in production or not. On the usefulness of bench top bandsaws in general... I thought when I got a bigger saw that my little 9" Ryobi cheapie one would be unused and probably be disposed of. I was wrong. While it was a very poor excuse for a bigger bandsaw, it is super handy and I use it numerous times everyday for many little light duty tasks. If it were to die I'd replace it with another bench top band saw. It is a very poor substitute for a bigger bandsaw, but is a useful tool in it's own niche, or at least it is in my shop.
  11. Just my two cents on a few aspects of this... Not sure what $100 blade you bought, but on the 14" delta clonesI doubt that a heavy duty re-saw blade makes much sense. I found that even the thin (0.022"?) 3/4" Timberwolf blade really can't be tensioned very well on these saws. It is supposedly designed to run lower tension, but I didn't find that to really be optimum. Initially I thought they were pretty good, but ultimately I found problems. Running the necessary tension for those blades to really perform destroyed the tensioning arm on my saw in about a year of not very heavy re-saw use. I built about 100 mountain dulcimers in that year and did all the re-sawing of the sides and sound boards, so it was used a good bit but not like a production shop making furniture. I decided that a 1/2" blade gave as good or better re-saw results compared to the 3/4" one on these saws. I am not convinced that it is worth upgrading the guides to carters or whatever. I think that on a properly tuned saw the guide choices are not super critical to the cut quality. For me one key was setting up the tracking so the bottom of the gullets was in the middle of the tire or at least close (a problem with the 3/4" blades). I have found that for my work my 14" delta is fine. Maybe not ideal, but Ok. It is slower and the results might require more passes through the thickness sander than a bigger better saw would require, but for my work that is acceptable. If it was a higher production shop doing the same work I might be able to justify the expense and space taken by a bigger saw. In that case I'd want to keep the 14" saw for cutting curves and avoid changing blades on the big saw leaving the re-saw blade on it most or even all of the time.
  12. It sounds like you are actually a segmented approximation of a cone rather than a cone. A birds mouth style construction might make sense for that, but it seems to me to be more trouble and more material used than either a sheet metal cone or a Thien type baffle, with no significant advantage over those options. FWIW, I found that the Thien baffle is very easy to build, more compact than a cone, and very effective. You might want to consider that option if you have not already done so.
  13. This brings up a good point. A lot of this depends on what you will be building. I typically break down my stock into about the lengths that the actual pieces will be first before jointing and have been very satisfied with my shop fox bench top jointer. I have not wished I had bought bigger or better. I have found it fine for 5' lengths, but I most often work with lesser lengths. If I were to need to rarely joint something too long for my little jointer, I'd just have my lumber supplier joint it for me rather than buy a large jointer for a very rare or one time project. If you will be frequently needing to joint longer stock that can't first be cut to length or wider stock a small jointer may not work for you, but I suspect that a lot of folks would be just fine with a 6" bench top jointer. BTW, on the width limitation I find that I often want to book match when I need wider pieces which cuts the needed width to be jointed in half. Once the glue up of the book matching is done the thickness sander quickly gets it to where I want it. Also, Different strokes and all that but, "good enough" is literally good enough. It may take a bit of extra care to do quality work on mid level or cheaper stuff, but it can be done. Personally, I require my tools and materials to pay for themselves in finished products that either would have cost me as much to buy pre made or finished products that I can sell and at least pay for my tools and materials, but preferably making a profit. That is easier to do if I keep the tool purchase prices down and don't splurge too heavily on tools. I have friends who spent many thousands on tools and have never built enough to even come close to recouping their investment on even one of their large power tools. I think that at least some of them derive a lot of enjoyment from buying and owning their tools, but I prefer to get my enjoyment from turing out nice finished work on "good enough tools".
  14. I have not found that to be the case. They do require a good bit of hand pressure to get them tight, but I didn't find them to be especially lacking in clamping pressure.
  15. FWIW, I have a pair of the Jorgenson EZ Hold ones that, if memory serves me, have lasted at least 20 years. They do have some plastic parts though.
  16. Actually the c-clamp and board option is not all that bad on a bandsaw. It is far less critical that the fence aligns exactly with blade since the blade is narrow and the kerf wide enough and the blade narrow enough to accommodate a bit of misalignment. Also a bit more elaborate wooden shop built fence can be quite functional and not that hard to make. The "real" fence that came with my 14" saw is nice, but I have a shop built fence that I use for re-sawing veneers and other wide thin pieces. In actual practice it typically stays on the saw most of the time even for setups that would normally be done with the "real" fence. It works well enough and is less effort than swapping fences. My little 9" bandsaw didn't come with a fence and I make a lot of small parts on it so after successfully using a piece of wood and two c-clamps for a few years I finally built a fence for it as well.
  17. When I want fractional and don't need precision to .001" I find my Starrett rulers to usually be just fine and faster/easier than calipers any way. They have two scales on each side. One side is 1/32s and 1/64s and the other side is 1/10s and 1/100s. I most often use the 1/10" scale. I don't think I'd have sprung for the $$$ that these Starrett rules cost, but I have a few of them in a couple lengths that a previous employer bought for me.
  18. Nice, but kind of pricy for what it is. I wish they showed pictures of it in use. I'll try googling it for more pictures. Edit: I just googled it and after seeing pictures of it in use the cost seems more reasonable than I thought at first glance. It looks like a nice setup.
  19. I have that one and like it just fine. I have been using it for a couple years with no problems. The only minor annoyance is that the battery door sometimes gets bumped and comes off. I bought mine on sale too and I think it was about $12, but even at the full price of $19.95 it is a good deal IMO. I use it way more than my brand name $$$ dial one or my brand name $$$ micrometers.
  20. I have used small motors on specialty tools that are specific to my work (travel dulcimer building). Two things that come to mind are a horizontal drilling station for quickly locating and drilling zither pin holes in the end blocks of my instruments and a fret slot sawing station. The fret saw station is an old 1940's table saw with a 6" x 0.023" kerf blade. Since the slots are only 0.023" wide by 0.070" deep it requires very little power. Those examples are unlikely to be needed in most shops, but they are likely to be other small specialized tasks that may be served with some specialty station that can use a small motor.
  21. I kind of wish that I had bought the Shaptons or something else that doesn't require soaking for that reason. Soaking is a pain and the stones shed a LOT of water onto whatever you are sharpening on after soaking. Even after soaking they seem to need to be frequently hit with a spray bottle or dipped in water. Being able to just hit the stones with a spray bottle with no soaking would be nice. Other than that I like the Norton water stones pretty well. I am thinking of making a small sharpening station, possibly a folding one, or maybe one that fits in some out of the way spot in the shop. Either way I am thinking of storing the stones in water. Anyone have a compact or stow-able sharpening station design that they recommend?
  22. I have some paulownia and some sinker cypress, but don't have anything in off cuts at the moment. I'd have to cut into a nice piece to have anything for you at the moment. I'll keep you in mind when I cut those pieces for a job. Feel free to remind me in a month or two if you still need them and I have not gotten back to you.
  23. I had the Veritas burnisher and it didn't work very well for me. I used it but the results were not that great. It may have been operator error, so I am not knocking the Veritas since it apparently works well for others. It got misplaced during a move and I needed something right away so I cut the bend off of a largish allen wrench. I chucked it in a drill and held it against a running belt sander to grind it to round, Then I used sheets of finer and finer abrasive until it was nicely polished. I fitted a handle and am happy with the result. I have actually found it easier to get a decent burr than with the home made one than I did with the Veritas one.
  24. Yeah, I forgot the hand truck and dollies. I have used them a lot and find them very satisfactory and a good value.
  25. They sell some gems and some junk. Things that I have used from them that worked out OK: The 12" disc sander is a nice tool and a good value. The 4" belt, 6" disc sander is nothing special, but I have found it useful and it is holding up okay The 5" ROS works about as well as my dewalt ones. The 1" x 30" belt sander is handy and super inexpensive. I have found their bench top drill press to be okay for the price Their dust control units are okay Their little 7x10 metal cutting lathe has been handy and is holding up well Their clamps are nice and a good value. The 6" and 12" clamps are a great value. The 18" are okay if you don't need much pressure. Skip the longer ones altogether though. The longer aluminum bar clamps are nice after modifying them (google the Paul Sellers video on this). Their nitrile gloves are a good value. Their digital caliper is okay Their CA glue is okay Some of their plier type tools and wrenches are okay Their pipe clamps are okay Some of their abrasives are okay and some are junk Some of the drill bits are okay and some total crap The 3-1/2 gallon air compressor was on sale for VERY cheap, but was a fail for me. It took forever to get up to pressure and I was never able to get rid of all the leaks. If used heavily at all it would overheat and need to rest before resetting. It died completely when it was a year or two old, but with only maybe 6 months of actual use.