PlaneAndDestroy

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About PlaneAndDestroy

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 11/30/1986

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver, British Columbia
  • Woodworking Interests
    Fine furniture, shop level production

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  1. It's all about the level of protection you're looking for, and the types of things you're looking to protect. As you can see by my avatar, I have some experience... I wear a 3M silicone face mask. With the Pancake N100 filters I feel like I'm probably sitting at a N97 level of protection. Basically that's better than the cloth dusk masks that provide N95 protection. I don't assume 100 percent filtration, but it's certainly better than a cloth mask cleanshaven. When fiberglassing and wearing OV filters I can say it's way better than no mask at all. Any vapor is obviously going to travel through the beard matrix just fine, so you can't assume full protection in that case. Hobby woodworking just get a 3m mask, some N100 filters and call it a day. You'll live, and I doubt you'll see any poor health effects.
  2. You can add another row of pins on the back of the case to extend the shelf width before it starts to sag. You're then looking directly at pin holes in the back of the case though. I think with a back one you can go to ~36", depending on what gets stored in the shelf. Books are heavy, feathers are not.
  3. Something about that cross joint with the through mortise doesn't sit well with me. Looks like it could be weak, since 90% of the long grain is cut, and the areas that are glued together are essentially endgrain joints. Is it really a through mortise on the original piece, or do they do some trickery and tack on a piece to make it look like it is?
  4. I use a red scotchbrite on a sander when mine gets too gnarly and I can't look at it anymore. As was already said, as long as the surface is smooth, and there's no bumps on it it "works" as well as a shiny surface. Residual rust does, however, spur on the formation of more rust, so take that as you will. I also used Boeshield on my cast iron. Or mold release wax. Or Renaisance wax. Whatever you have handy. The Boeshield is expensive though, and I found I could go overboard with it easy and deplete a whole can before I knew it.
  5. I'm in a different age class, but I ALWAYS have my phone at hand. I can't imagine keeping track of a slide rule, much less my pocket protector and bakelite glasses.
  6. I only check this forum periodically, but all this new Goldberg drama is interesting...
  7. LOL. "Wood"... So, we took all the lignin out and filled all the voids with polymer.... still wood right!?
  8. My dad and I ran a business building poptop campervans. One of the larger companies (PleasureWay) took one of our vans from somewhere, brought it into their shop and took direct molds of our fiberglass roof parts and came out with their own model. We talked to a lawyer about it, and he said it would cost us way over 6 figures, and we might not even ever see anything from it. Bottom line is its really hard to defend a design/shape. Expensive. Don't be a dick and you'll probably be fine.
  9. So, the beams were under, or over 10%? Beams cut 150 years ago (when the tree would have stopped packing water into the cells) could very well be as dry as the environmental humidity allows, but that doesn't really say anything for how long it took for them to reach that state, or how long it takes for say a 8"x8" timber to dry all the way through. No hard and fast rules, but the general rule I've heard is good luck trying to air dry something over 2" thick in a commercial time frame. Barn finds of stacked and stickered 40 year old lumber and reclaimed timbers don't count
  10. This topic might be dead, but... Wood has bound and free water. Water in between the cell walls is the free water, and it's what goes away rather quickly. A seasoned log for a fire has the free water gone, but not necessarily the bound water. Bound water is inside the cell walls themselves, and takes a lot longer to go away. This is the water you're losing when you're going from 20% down to 7%. This can't be air dried from thicker than 2", I've heard, and any timbers that are thicker are essentially still green on the inside. Apparently there's crazy microwave kilns or kilns with lasers on sharks heads that can take care of this and fully dry a piece, but that's beyond most supply options.
  11. A 4" slab wont air dry to its core, from what I've read. No matter what it"ll still be green inside.
  12. Sometimes you just can't win. I went to rip a 2" wide piece of Wenge on the TS the other day, perfectly acceptable, right? Well... The darn piece spread apart at the kerf 5/16" extra (of course, on the fence side, bowing the middle of the cut inwards towards the blade) over 10" of rip length. I gave up at the 10" mark and just went for another piece of stock.
  13. Somebody really needs to add a secret compartment for a firearm in "The Anarchist's Toolchest". Mayhaps a musket?
  14. Use epoxy stabilized wood. Bada bing! no movement issue. The issue is the 1000$ of epoxy you used...
  15. Do you have experience with that mask? I have a beard, and I'm looking for an all in one option that might work with it...