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About xxdabroxx

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    Journeyman Poster

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    Central Valley, CA
  • Woodworking Interests
    New woodworker, interested in hand tool woodworking. (They are cheaper than power tools so far, haha)

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  1. I'm not sure that I really like the gun in that kit either, I was just surprised to see that they were less than a grand these days. I did like that it came with additional needles though. I like the cup on this gun better. https://www.amazon.com/Fuji-2803-T75G-Mini-Mite-PLATINUM-Gravity/dp/B00D4NPPO6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1531323311&sr=8-6&keywords=hvlp+system The interchangeable cup deal on the semi-pro seems a bit cobbled together to me. Kinda weird how it has a gravity feed cup that feeds into a siphon cup location on the bottom of the gun. I still n
  2. That looks better than the "Sher-Wood 275" white lacquer that they suggested at the store. I noticed that the 275 said that yellowing over time was likely particularly when used in white. The Kem Aqua Plus says that yellowing wasn't' an issue even with white. I'll have to get a price on it but even if it costs more it's worth it to not have my cabinets yellow, especially in a cool toned room. Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I've got a little side job coming up so I still may get my HVLP gun referenced earlier, I doubt I'll have the money for a turbine but I may just look into a whole
  3. It was my grandfather's Binks, not sure what model but I know my dad says that grandpa's had a bigger needle than his does. I've used my dads quite a bit I'm guessing it has a 1.5ish needle in it. Grandpa's was probably from the 60's or 70's but it still worked good into the 2000's when it was last used to paint my cousins El Camino. I'm sure it is still in good shape. I'll have to dig it out and give it a test. I figured I'd paint it outside over a drop cloth, overspray shouldn't be an issue. I don't really want to mask off everything in my shop but I can if I have to. I could als
  4. Will do, I've got a separator sitting in a box that I've never hooked up but I'll get it up and running before I spray this project. I've got an upright Craftsman compressor that I've had for a while, it's only 120v but it should be big enough. And I've got lots of air hose. I wish there was a distributor closer for the paint you recommended. I'll post results with whatever paint I come up with. I looked up the spec sheet on the Sherwin Williams stuff and it seems pretty resistant to just about everything but a couple solvents. Hopefully it finishes pretty hard. They gave a pencil h
  5. Looks like I can't get the ML Campbell within 100 miles of my location but you set me on a better path @wdwerker I think the closest thing I'll be able to get locally is Sherwin Williams pre-cat epoxy. https://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/pro-industrial-precatalyzed-water-based-epoxy I'm going to go into the local SW store after work and see if they can get it. Seems like not all locations stock it. If I can't get that there is a Valspar or Behr pre cat epoxy I might try. Doesn't seem to be easy to find a pre-cat lacquer around here, maybe it's a Califo
  6. I'm about to start on my kitchen cabinets and I'm planning on a painted finish. That said, I do not want to brush these things (I hate painting, my pantry took way too long to brush). I'm willing to buy a gravity feed HVLP gun if need be or use my grandpa's old Binks siphon gun. I have a decent sized air compressor that I feel will be adequate to get the job done. That being said I'm in need of some help from you guys, probably @wdwerker would know a lot about this. What paint can I use to get a good long lived finish in a kitchen? It needs to be tintable as I'm planning on doing th
  7. I just caught up with this thread, great work Dave. Is the finish in sight?
  8. I was working on a miter sled for my table saw this weekend and decided that one of my KD doug fir 2x4's was the straightest and thickest piece of wood I had in the shop so that became my fence. It's been sitting at my house for over a month without being used and stayed extremely straight for what it was. I ran it through the planer to get smooth faces and the cut to length and ripped to clean up the faces that didn't get planed. I think it's going to work quite well really, it's rift sawn so I think it will be fairly stable. I guess my point is that not all construction lumber is garbage
  9. I've had problems with tear out before one thing that helped me was setting the throat and the chip breaker. I found that either one can be closed up tight but not both at the same time. I think I found that tidbit in a Paul Sellers video but I cant remember for sure.
  10. I went a little overboard with the kiln build but it works great. Used insulating fire bricks in a metal cabinet I fabricated. Pulled an old PID controller out of another project and set it up to work in the new system. I did a lot of calculations to try and get the right size coil and wire so it should be fairly long lived if I ever get around to using it again. It should make plenty of heat to harden even stainless steel.
  11. I got some free bins from my dads work when they were trashing them. The are the fold open type that come in a small cabinet with slides. I’ve been trying to buy extra screws when I get some from the store because I live about 20 miles from the nearest hardware store.
  12. Is it even face to face? Twist in the board maybe
  13. The were really simple to make too. I’ll try and get some more pictures of the last one I made. Redwood 2x4 and about 16” of 1/2” copper pipe. I’m going to do the wall that you can’t see in the picture with MDF shiplap to get out of more drywall. I’m going to wrap the same material into the living room too for one wall. Should make that whole part of the house look like it’s built that way from the entry door. I like following through with details like that rather than just doing a singe face. Im excited to get started on the cabinets for the kitchen. I’m not very good at
  14. Thanks Steve. I’m happy with how it came out.