SawDustB

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SawDustB last won the day on April 21

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About SawDustB

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    : Nova Scotia, Canada
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, picture frames, and generally spending time in the garage with tools.

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  1. SawDustB

    Bookshelf toybox

    I'm actually building something like this right now.
  2. SawDustB

    OTT - Precision Framing Square

    I've been hit with similar fees by UPS. I never order anything shipped by UPS from the US unless I know up front the fees are paid. US postal service isn't nearly as bad. As an example, I had fog lights come in that I paid $55 USD for. The duty and brokerage fees from UPS came to $70 USD! This is the reason that it's often not worth it to order from American sources.
  3. SawDustB

    Shop Build: Outfeed Table Base Build

    Looking great! It's hard to tell, is the lip low enough on the planer drawer that you can use it in place? I feel like I need a solution like this, so I don't have all this stuff on the floor.
  4. SawDustB

    Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    So I've been swamped with work the last few weeks, but I got out last night and fit the back. I was surprised at how well my block plane worked on the plywood. Aside from that, I've glued up the drawers and filled/sanded all the joints. Next up, drawer fronts, then a whole lot of surface prep.
  5. SawDustB

    Another Roubo!!!

    That being said, if you're making the bench in the winter, don't make it too tight. I had mine so it was a nice fit before the summer, and by the fall I had to get it out with a mallet. I ended up planing a bit off three times before I stopped having sticking issues. My slabs obviously weren't as stable as would have been ideal - I think some of my boards were quartersawn, so orienting them 90 degrees left me with movement in the wrong direction.
  6. SawDustB

    Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    So following along from Steve's suggestion, I left 1/2" of wood below the drawer bottoms. I cut a 1/4" groove, stopping just short of the ends. The drawer bottoms are 1/2" BB plywood, rabbeted 1/4" in on each edge to 1/4" thick. The drawers seem like they'll be nice and solid, but I need to finish sand all of it before assembly.
  7. SawDustB

    Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    Thanks Steve, good to know. I'll revise my plan up by 1/4".
  8. SawDustB

    Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    Yes, the lower drawer is in a 12" high opening, so it's around 11 5/8". It's replacing a small toy box in her room, so it's going to have blocks, stuffed animals,etc piled in it. It's a bit of an odd form factor, but I'm building to my wife's request here. The box joints worked well, once I bolted the jig firmly to my miter gauge. I just had it on with a quick clamp for the upper drawer, which is why it slipped.
  9. SawDustB

    Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    After a lot of messing around with a crude box joint jig (William Ng style) I have the start of some drawers. I'm using 1/2" ply for both drawers, including the bottoms. The box joints on the smaller drawer aren't perfect because my jig slipped and I had to recut some of the sides to make them mesh together. The large drawer came out really well. I need to put in grooves and cut the bottoms to fit. My plan is to rabbet the bottom to fit in a 1/4" groove, with the bottom almost flush. This should maximize my drawer space.
  10. SawDustB

    Knobs! Glorious knobs!

    Very nice. Although if you have time to be making knobs, you have time to keep your work bench moving along...
  11. SawDustB

    dowel max

    Any chance you've got a picture of your jig? I've considered doing something similar.
  12. SawDustB

    Minwax oil modified polyurethane vs GF Enduro var

    I really appreciate all the help. In the end, I discussed it with my wife who told me not to be cheap and just buy the Enduro var if I know it works. I may still give the Minwax a shot on a couple of projects I expect to be doing for work in the next year or two.
  13. SawDustB

    YARB in Pennsylvania

    That's too bad. This has been one of the fastest and most entertaining work bench builds. Come back soon!
  14. SawDustB

    Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    I glued the whole length of the dovetail for a couple of reasons. I ended up having to make the dovetails only a little over 1/4" deep, rather than the 3/8". That, combined with the fact that I used a 7 degree dovetail bit, left them feeling a little weaker than I liked against being pulled out. I know that lots of sources say you can slide it in most of the way and just glue the last couple of inches. It probably would have been fine, but I fully expect my daughter to stand on the shelves at some point and I don't want to add screws. Also, with the liquid hide glue, it actually lubricated the joint until it started to seize up near the end, so there wasn't much penalty to gluing the whole thing. Had I used PVA I would never have tried gluing the whole length, but I could have with something like epoxy. I didn't use a tapered sliding dovetail, but that would have also solved these issues. If I had used PVA, I never would have been able to slide the dovetail all the way in. It would have swelled the joint, making it tighter, and it would have probably seized up with them halfway in. PVA seems to be the glue being discussed when people talk about gluing the last two inches of tail and socket and then driving them in. Thanks! I was reasonably happy with how the glue worked, although it was critical to have a bucket of hot water for the glue to live in between using it. If it cooled off even a little, it became much harder to use. I think the Titebond glue is a lot more forgiving in that respect, but the Old Brown glue seemed to be what people recommended when I bought it.
  15. SawDustB

    Minwax oil modified polyurethane vs GF Enduro var

    Thanks Drew, that's very helpful. If you'd posted before AJ put up the links for buying gallons of Enduro var, it'd be an easy decision. Now I've got two good options to pick from.