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About SawDustB

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  • Gender
  • Location
    : Nova Scotia, Canada
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, picture frames, and generally spending time in the garage with tools.

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  1. Morris Chair

    Based on your last couple of posts, it seems like in about 5 more posts you'll have decided to remake them . Seriously though, I think they look better than you're giving yourself credit for. Once the wood darkens, especially with an oil based finish, they'll blend in much more.
  2. Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    Thanks guys. It wouldn't be the first time I'd ended up with my project being an inch smaller . For now, I've glued in a 1/8" thick strip in all the dados that has the correct grain direction. I figure if it looks bad after I flush them up, I can still cut the case narrower, but I'll try this first. I suspect it'll be fine. I had to fix one of them up with a chisel and use a wider piece, but the rest were very consistent. The glue is drying and I'm walking away from it for today.
  3. Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    I should mention, I'd welcome any suggested fixes. Going and getting more wood to replace the shelves isn't in the cards, though, at least not until next week.
  4. Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    So I screwed up a little... It turns out I used the wrong spacer when I set the stop block and cut my shelves to length. As a consequence, they're only long enough for a 1/4" dovetail on each end. That by itself would be OK, except I cut all the dados to 5/16" deep. As I see it, there are two options. Option 1 is to glue in a 1/16" or thicker piece with the right grain orientation in the grooves, then cut the 1/4" dovetail. This only really has to be done in a couple of places, since many of the grooves are stopped and invisible from the front. Option two is to cut the dovetails off one end of the top, and make the whole bookshelf 1" narrower. This means I have to cut one new set of tails, but it gives me the chance to recut everything to length, fixing my mistake. I think I'll do this as a last resort, since I'd prefer not to make it smaller, and the dovetails are exactly how I want them right now. I'm concerned that trying to recut the tails from the pins won't go well. Either way, I'm kicking myself. I hate it when this happens in a project.
  5. Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    Yes, I was glad to know it's sharp. I was peeling off that plastic goop from the cutting edge when it all decided to pop off at once. Nothing serious, but enough to tell me I was done.
  6. Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    I went with straight, on @wdwerker's recommendation. The layout for this is tricky enough without introducing the taper to think about too. The other factor is that with the 3/4" dovetail bit, there isn't really enough material to mess around with a taper. You may notice that a couple of the shelves are going to be inset, so they're getting stopped dovetails and are a different length. Just too many variables - I know I'd end up with the wrong taper on one of them.
  7. Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    The bookshelf is no longer on hold, now that I've reclaimed my shop from the bathroom renovation. I decided on sliding dovetails for all of the remaining shelves. I cut them all to length with a stop block, and got to work on the dovetail sockets. I made a small t square jig from plywood and clamped it on. I cut one side so it would line up with my layout mark and put the dado in the right place. Here it is: I used a spiral 1/2" bit to plow out most of the waste. I'm going to come back with the dovetail bit and cut them to final size. After this evening I had all my dados, so you can see the shelf and divider layout. I then sliced my thumb on the new dovetail bit when taking it out of the packaging, so I quit for the night. I'm happy to be making sawdust again, though.
  8. Chisels

    As far as sizes go, I've got the 4 piece Narex set and use the 3/4" by far the most, followed by the 1/4" and 1/2", and I'll admit I'm not sure where the 1" one is. I did buy a 1 1/2" chisel which I find I use quite a bit, since it's nice for evening out a surface with the width of it. I'm pretty happy with them, but I've never had better so I don't know the difference. @I B, I was eyeing those dovetail chisels. How do you find they've worked out for you? Most of the other options seem pretty expensive for something I'll only use once in a while.
  9. Restoration Tips

    Depending on how bad it is, I've had luck with using autosol polish and a buffing attachment on the drill press. It helps take done of the black off without making it look new.
  10. GluLam Beam for Roubo Top??

    Why not just use the 3 1/2" version? There's no need to hit 4" exactly.
  11. I wouldn't overthink it. I just put a zig zag bead down and called it good.
  12. I didn't do anything else - seemed to work OK. I added a couple of galvanized finish nails to hold it tight while everything cured.
  13. I did exactly the same thing, and used polyurethane construction adhesive (PL premium). It worked great.
  14. Frustrated Novice

    I meant to ask - is your fence face square? There's an adjustment to make sure it's square to the table. That could also throw off your edges.
  15. Frustrated Novice

    I have the same saw. Have you tried a new blade? The one that comes on the saw is junk. I got much straighter and cleaner cuts after replacing it with a decent combo blade. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk