SawDustB

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SawDustB last won the day on March 12

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About SawDustB

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    Master Poster

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    : Nova Scotia, Canada
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, picture frames, and generally spending time in the garage with tools.

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  1. SawDustB

    Hand tool cabinet in maple

    Yeah, I had a few of those in the Roubo too. The back legs on my bench both have inner faces pieced together from scrap. That project seemed to generate so much wood that was 2" wide and useless for any project parts. The piece I glued actually looks pretty good after cleanup, although my planer was being annoying. The boards coming out the other end were varying by 1/32" in thickness, so I went right past 5/8" and ended closer to 9/16". It should still work, but I wasn't happy.
  2. SawDustB

    Hand tool cabinet in maple

    I'm not worried about it. The plane till covers it almost entirely. I glued on three scraps to get the full width . I just really wanted that board to be the visible part you'd be looking at with the door open.
  3. SawDustB

    Veneer Adventures

    Very cool! I bought some veneer supplies a while ago, but never actually got around to playing with them yet. I'll be interested to see how this goes.
  4. SawDustB

    Hand tool cabinet in maple

    So I realized that the divider above the cubbies could come out of an interestingly flawed board I have, except it wasn't wide enough. The back couple inches won't really be seen, so I'm gluing on my scraps before I plane it and cut it to width. It seems a little ridiculous, but the alternative was using one of my pieces that are intended for the door frames. Once that's dry, I can start on the pieces for the inside of the case. For the top piece that is more visible, I've decided to go with a splined miter joint, with continuous grain.
  5. Makes sense. I use mine a bit more, but I can understand why you might not need to. The one big annoyance I have with the tail vise is the handwheel sticking off the right side. I'd like to be able to use a handsaw to cut things to length on that side, being right handed, but I have to position my cut out past the hand wheel. This makes it less stable and causes more vibration.
  6. SawDustB

    Hand tool cabinet in maple

    No toes harmed in the course of this discussion . I completely understand wanting to know why, rather than accepting conventional wisdom. I tend to be the same way, must be an engineer thing. I'll let you know if I see a difference - I'm curious myself. The way I view it, it can't do any harm, and it's easy. The copper tape is used for a few things, but one of our primary uses is to prevent radiated emissions from equipment. It can be used to tape over seams in boxes or enclosures to prevent RF from leaking out. For that to be effective, you want it to be conductive so it's a decent electrical joint. You can get it where it's not specified as conductive and it's a bit cheaper. I've also seen it used to mock up a circuit board where the geometry was important, since it's easy to modify using the tape. As with all engineers, EEs do a variety of things. Like you said, some are in power systems, others end up dealing with plant controls, or some like me are involved in electronics design. I'm involved with a company that designs high power radio frequency systems for a range of applications. My piece of it is mostly the signal processing and control to make them work. A lot of that entails writing software on a DSP or embedded processor, as well as some circuit board design. Maybe a lot . I started it when I posted the DC though. I promise, I'll try to post something with wood being worked soon.
  7. SawDustB

    Hand tool cabinet in maple

    Like I said, I'm not overly concerned about having problems if I don't ground it. I'm an EE in my day job, and I'm used to grounding everything to protect against RF and lightning. These are obviously not a concern here . But for grounding against static, the bar is really low. Basically anything at all conductive is enough. The copper tape should take me a couple minutes to do, unlike the screws, wire nuts, and terminals that most people seem to do. I'm going to be brushing by this setup all the time, which is the main reason I'm bothering. I already got a couple of small zaps from it. But if there's enough charge to jump the air gap to me, the copper on the surface should be able to dissipate it first. Aluminum tape might also work, but I know this stuff has conductive adhesive on it.
  8. SawDustB

    Hand tool cabinet in maple

    Probably not, it's been fine. I just don't want to lose what performance I have. I don't tend to have an issue, except for when my planer was plugging up the grate going into the dust collector. That's mostly what inspired this whole exercise. The only other thing I'm likely going to do is run a strip of copper tape along the pipe to remove the static. I'm not worried about fires or explosions, but it gave me a pretty good zap after running it for a few minutes.
  9. SawDustB

    Hand tool cabinet in maple

    I'd heard about the sand trick as well, but it sounds messy. I figure I'm out an extra $30 in elbows doing it this way, which is worth it for the hassle. I've bent thin pipe, but never anything approaching 4". Probably the next biggest performance increase would be if I shorten the flex hose I use on the tools, but that would also limit my layout in the shop.
  10. SawDustB

    Hand tool cabinet in maple

    That should work, if it ends up being an issue. It's actually more secure on there than it might appear. My main concern is what happens when the barrel fills up, and if it becomes tippy. At worst, I can put something on the cart base as ballast.
  11. SawDustB

    Hand tool cabinet in maple

    It's close to square, but not quite. At the very least it would require drilling new holes and some sort of adaptation. I probably won't bother unless I find a way to go vertical with it. This contraption should be able to go beside my workbench if I clear some more junk out of the garage.
  12. SawDustB

    Hand tool cabinet in maple

    Yes, I was too lazy to empty the bag until I'm sure that it's staying as is . That was from my planing yesterday. I could have easily made this much shorter, but I used a mix of 22.5 degree and 45 degree elbows, mostly the 22.5. I'm trying to keep it a gentle sweep. I could eliminate at least one of the smaller bends if I shortened my connecting pipes a bit, so I might do that. The optimal setup would be to raise the dust collector about 18", flip the blower 90 degrees so it went into the top of the cyclone, and stack them. I'm just not sure I want it that tall, and there's no good wall space to hang it, since I have a door, window, and electrical panel on the wall where I would ideally put it. This version took me about 20 minutes total, so I haven't got too much invested in it.
  13. SawDustB

    Hand tool cabinet in maple

    I know . I think the longest piece of pipe there is about 6". I wanted to keep the whole thing pretty compact. I won't bother gluing until I'm a bit more sure that I'm keeping it that way.
  14. SawDustB

    Hand tool cabinet in maple

    I think I'm done being distracted for now with dust collection. I did get the drawer divider milled down to 5/8", but I can't make up my mind what piece to use for above the cubbies. I have a couple of piece with interesting defects, one of which will probably end up there. I raided the plumbing aisle at Home Depot to connect my dust collector with the new dust deputy. I wanted to have hard pipe from the dust deputy to the collector, since it's a pretty ugly connection (unless I get into disassembling the dust collector and building a new cart, but that sounds like work, and would make it really tall). I was able to have the dust deputy ride on the same cart, although I suspect I'll add a better support to hold it. And yes, it's being held on with a bungee cord right now, but it actually is quite stable like this. Obviously I'm currently missing the hose, but I'm happy with the result. Plan B was to try bending the PVC if I didn't like how it turned out. I can't tell a difference in the airflow from right at the collector input, or going through this, so the difference is likely small enough that I don't care. And the back view. I may end up adding a counterweight on the back corner to prevent it from being tippy with the dust deputy hanging off the front. The other option would be to shift the pillar with the motor back and drill a couple of new holes.
  15. SawDustB

    Plastics vs. Melamine plywood

    I don't see any reason not to... Melamine (on particle board) can tend to chip a bit around the edge, but if you use a high tooth count blade you'll get decent results. It's also really cheap, which means that it can be easily replaced if it does fall apart on you. I've used it for a router table fence and a few other things and it's a decent choice. It will stand up better if you put at least the iron on edge banding. I would think that the phenolic coated plywood might also be a good choice, but that tends to be expensive and hard to get. @Chet is right, the Formica is more durable, but it's more work, more expensive, and it is probably not quite as flat.