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SawDustB last won the day on August 1

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About SawDustB

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  • Location
    : Nova Scotia, Canada
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, picture frames, and generally spending time in the garage with tools.

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  1. I think it makes a big difference if portability is part of the equation. For me, my shop space is so small that my vacuum and dust deputy are attached to the wall, and 25' of hose (a 15' and a 10' connected together) gets me to everything in the space. I usually just have the 15' hose on the dust deputy and that reaches everything in the front of the garage along with my workbench, router table, etc. If I was lugging around a cart with the dust deputy I'd probably view it differently.
  2. I've found filter cleaning to be a non-issue with the Dust Deputy in the setup, unless I let it overflow. That never happens anymore now that the planer is going to an actual dust collector instead. Not that I wouldn't probably enjoy the perks of a higher end vacuum, but mine does basically everything I ask of it at this point. The one issue I had was the lack of HEPA filtration, but the Ridgid replacement filter fixed that for me.
  3. The muffler was the major benefit I found from my previous shop vac, aside from the slight increase in suction. It reduces the noise level to the point where you don't have to wear hearing protection with it if you don't want to.
  4. These vacuums seem to be sold under a couple of brands - at least Vacmaster and DuraVac, from what I can tell. I have a wall mounted DuraVac that I've been using for about 6-7 years now with a Dust Deputy, with pretty good results - claims 5 HP peak, but smaller capacity. There's a VacMaster direct equivalent for that one. Incidentally, I found that you can make the Ridgid HEPA filter fit on with a bit of persuasion, if that helps. Here's the vacuum I have in Vacmaster: Or Duravac: I think it might be a Canada vs. US thing for the distribution, with it being DuraVac here and Vacmaster in the USA.
  5. Yeah, that's a tough one. I reorganized and painted my garage a few years ago before I started the Roubo, and a tool cabinet was always in the plan. For me there was really only one spot it could go, and I left the space blank since then. I put it off this long because I originally figured I would modify the plans from the Mike P. FWW tool cabinet, which was the wrong form factor - my space was short and wide, not tall and narrow. It worked out well for me that Matt's dimensions were pretty much ideal for my space.
  6. OK, fair enough. I am trying to only buy things I really need at this point. I'm embarrassed to say I've found tools in the process of fitting them that I forgot I owned. On the plus side, I've started using them again now that they live over my bench. I do want to make sure that the tools I have fit in the storage I have, since my shop was such a mess before.
  7. I tried to do the same, but I also know I'm not done acquiring tools so I tried to keep my options open for later. I view this build similar to the roubo in that even though it's a shop project, I intend to only ever build it once. I felt kind of silly about not checking the dimension on the saw till, but I guess Matt has smaller than average handles and saws, so it worked for him. Otherwise I was generally happy with the internal layout, so I figured it was better to build to the plans. The customizations I made were minor, like adding more plane cubbies in the space. I did also watch a few other tool cabinet videos, like the Mike Pekovich series from fine woodworking. They've now uploaded that one to YouTube, so check it out if you haven't already.
  8. Hey Drew, that's great. It's a fun project, and I'm pretty happy overall. There were a couple of minor things that I wish I'd known ahead of time. The biggest complaint I had was discovering that my back saws wouldn't fit in the height for the saw till. The Veritas tenon saw is over an inch too big, and another Disston saw was about the same. I also found the gallery was bigger than necessary, so I would have had the left side of the cabinet go down to the shelf above the drawers for the 6 inches or so of the till (dropping two cubbies). Actual hand saws require almost the full height of the cabinet, so I'm OK with putting the one I have in the door. The plane cubbies aren't very deep, so they end up being useless for anything bigger than a #4. As it is, I had to plan what was in the doors so it left a gap where the bottom of the plane castings are. If you wanted to make it more useful, adding 1/2" to 1" to the carcass depth would make a big difference. I'm limited on space since it's over my bench, so I'm happy as is. In the shorter plane till, if you follow the plans it's just barely big enough to squeeze in a #5, but I wanted to plan for possibly having a low angle Jack later. This was an easy fix, just requiring a wider piece of plywood and a shallower angle. I think I ended up at 14 degrees instead of 16. I didn't bother making it full width since I don't have that many planes, but I can later if necessary. Both plane tills hold the planes, but they're not in there all that firmly at that angle. I will be adding some magnets behind the plywood. I'd still build it the same next time. The piano hinges worked fine, but I bought the heaviest ones I could. I wouldn't want anything lighter duty on it. The butt hinges would have worked too, if I'd been willing to spend the extra on them. I ended up deciding the card scraper tray was way overkill for the 7 scrapers I have, which is why they went into a cubby. This depends on your tools. As I said, I'm replacing it with a drawer. With the carcass, I built the carcass, then built the doors. This wasn't a great idea, since I ended up having a discrepancy in size of between 1/32 and 1/16, which I then had to plane and sand away. Clamping the doors to the carcass worked to a point, although one door warped a bit after I put everything up. Hope this helps. Let me know if I can answer anything else.
  9. I think these are the last couple additions: a holder for my digital calipers, and a magnetic block to find my 6 inch rulers. The other tools are in the mail, but I think I'll get these holders all finished. I need to get onto a couple of other projects soon.
  10. Very nice. I go with the Evaporust if the rust goes into a lot of crevices and things, but my new favorite method is a brass wire wheel on my bench grinder. As long as you're not too aggressive, I find it does a nice job of removing rust and leaving a reasonable looking surface.
  11. Thanks! I really wanted something that wouldn't close off the space, but I needed it to be secured. If I had just placed a block in there like Matt, I'd be knocking it over in no time. If only! I replaced our crossover with a new Subaru in the spring, so the other car will need to hold out a bit longer. I suspect my wife might notice what goes with the keys... I was instructed not to buy any tools since my birthday and Christmas are coming up, but I might have made a couple of small additions anyway
  12. The PCS seems more worth it to me if you're getting the sawstop. On the contractor saw and especially the jobsite, it seems like a larger percentage of the price is just for the safety feature. Nothing wrong with that, but it creates a larger price discrepancy from the comparable models. That's true. I saw the latest price increase and it's quite a bit more than when I bought. I paid $599 + tax Canadian during their annual sale, but that was a few years ago now. It seems like the tariffs have had a large impact on the price, along with normal inflation.
  13. I really haven't had an issue with the Ridgid. In my mind, it's about the minimum saw you would want to have for doing any amount of serious woodworking. Not everyone likes the fence, although I personally have found it to be fine as long as you check it for square every once in a while. I like the Ridgid for a few reasons: 1. Price - it's hard to find much else in this range with similar features, other than the Delta (although it seems like they're in the process of raising the price) 2. Mobility and footprint - for me this was key. The saw is super easy to move around, and it doesn't take up that much more space than a jobsite saw. I work in a pretty small space, so I constantly need to shuffle my tools to work. 3. Space for router table - it's really easy to add a router table to this saw, and even comes with screws and instructions. Some people have used the Bosch table top router table for this, as apparently it basically just drops in. 4. Riving knife - to me this is more important than the SawStop technology, and is the reason I didn't go with a used saw (although there was a used Powermatic contractor at the time, so I thought about it). The riving knife helps with preventing kickback on the saw, and was only common as of about 10 years ago. I personally wouldn't even look at a saw without it. At the end of the day, I'm happy with having bought it. Would I rather have a cabinet saw? Sure, if I had the room for it, but this one fits my needs better.
  14. I would agree with @wtnhighlander above. You can't go wrong with the SawStop if you're going to be in this hobby for the long haul. If you have the budget for it, it seems like an excellent saw, and the resale value on them is pretty good if you end up changing your mind. All that being said, when I went to make the jump from a junky jobsite saw, I went with the Ridgid R4512. This is their cast iron hybrid saw, which isn't a cabinet saw but it does enclose the base for better dust collection than a typical contractor saw. In Canada the SawStop was going to be at least a couple thousand, even going with a contractor version, and I wasn't 100% sure how far I'd get into the hobby. In retrospect, maybe I should have gone that route, but I figured worst case I'd have this saw for a few years and sell it used to trade up. I suspect I may revisit this in a couple of years when my daughter is getting to an age where she might be using it.
  15. I think my measurement area is just about complete, aside from adding a lip for pencils. I'm especially happy with the holder for the folding ruler, which has is very securely but lets you slip in a finger in the side to get it. I still also need to hang my bevel gauge, but somehow it got misplaced in all this. I did also order a couple more items that are in the mail, like a new 12" combo square. You can see in the right side my solution for the scrapers. I don't have nearly the number Matt does, so a block in a single cubby takes care of it. This way you also don't need to remove the block unless you want to, since the scrapers easily slide out the front. Just a couple more items and then it'll be time to pull it all out for finish.