SawDustB

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SawDustB last won the day on May 2

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About SawDustB

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    : Nova Scotia, Canada
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, picture frames, and generally spending time in the garage with tools.

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  1. It's not actually that long of a build, I'm just not putting a lot of time in. I'm pretty excited to be able to load it up. You should definitely build one too.
  2. I'm with Tom on this - the Iwasaki carving files are amazing, and they're not crazy expensive. I've bought a fine and x-fine from Lee valley. The fine is the tool I use the most in fine tuning the fit on joinery, and ends up being a general problem solver. It can be very aggressive, or with a lighter touch can leave a surface almost like the wood was planed. It's so much better than trying to use a home center rasp and then spending forever trying to get the gouges out of the wood. These ones: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=63451&cat=1,42524
  3. My experience would suggest that anything at their height or in their room will become a teething toy. I've got bite marks on my toy box and coffee table to prove it. Either way, they didn't make it all the way through the finish (water based poly) so I wouldn't worry about it. I've given my kids toys with parts made out of cherry and even some exotics without being concerned about it, as long as they were thoroughly sealed.
  4. I've now got glued up drawers with bottoms in them. I couldn't be bothered doing solid wood bottoms when I had a sheet of 1/4" Baltic birch in my way, so that's what I used. I also put in finger pulls along the top edge. These give enough clearance for my fingers, since Matt's measurements didn't work for me. You can also see the hinges I got. They're heavy duty continuous hinges in stainless steel. Unfortunately Amazon decided to only send 3 out of 4, so I may not be hanging the doors until next week.
  5. I've done this before by just routing two keyholes for screws directly in the workpiece. You can use paper to make a quick template for screw placement, then drill and drive them into the wall.
  6. These drawers were my first time doing half bind dovetails, aside from the condor tails on the Roubo. I marked them out carefully and used the drill press to hog out the waste. I had to modify my fence to allow the bit closer in, so that I could use it to set the distance to place the bit on the baseline. This drill press clamp is fantastic, especially for repetitive operations like this. After that, I went to the bench to chop out the waste, starting with the board flat and then finishing with it vertical in the leg vise. Not sure if this is the recommended procedure, but it worked for me. I was pretty satisfied with the fit I had on these. I found them a little fiddly, but not nearly as bad as I expected. I cleaned up the pins on the back of the drawer as well and I've now got drawers. These need a groove for the bottom and a finger pull and they're done. I was originally going to use inset ring pulls, but I didn't leave the fronts thick enough, so I think I'll just put a notch for a finger at the top instead.
  7. I've opted to go the route Marc did in the jewellery chest videos. It's a standard half blind dovetail for the front, and a single through tail for the back. I think this keeps the look without going overboard. I cut the tails on the table saw again. I really like how easy that is. I just need to do a little clean up with chisels and then it's on to pins.
  8. I could use the practice, but I want to get this finished up and on the wall in the next few weeks. I've never tried half blinds before, and my total dovetailing experience is this project and one other. I want to actually have time to make the holders too, so this doesn't end up taking me 6 months to move my tools into. I actually briefly considered just using box joints to get it done quickly, but I don't think the aesthetic would look right.
  9. I finished gluing all the doors over the last few days. It mostly went well, although my parts seem to have had some minor sizing discrepancies. As a result, I'll need to plane or sand them to eliminate it. Not a big deal, just annoying. I was happy with how the dovetails cleaned up though. I needed a break from the main case, so I've started on the drawers. I glued up a pile of my maple scraps to get the backs and sides, then planed them down. I also got my drawer fronts cut to size. I'm really happy I found this board for it. Next up is getting back to dovetails for the drawers. I'm debating whether to bother with half blinds, or just do another set of through dovetails.
  10. All internal door parts and panels are now sanded. The first door is glued up. I'm so glad I loosened the panels or this would have been very stressful. It went together fine, and I've clamped it to the main case. For some reason it's about 1/32 bigger, but that can be planed away. I suspect one of my setups was a tiny bit off between the two.
  11. I find I really only use it on thin rips, bit I only bought one. Maybe it'd be different if I had a pair. My guard is only on maybe half the time, mostly because it's a pain to adjust the height of my riving knife and I need it low to use my sled.
  12. I think for a router table it really depends on your budget, your space, and what you want to do with it. @Mark J has suggested an excellent setup if you want to go with a higher end (and is probably what I would do if space and budget weren't a concern). For me personally, I have the fixed base from my Porter Cable 1 3/4 HP variable speed router attached to a Kreg plate in the wing of my table saw. It gets the job done, and having it on the table saw saves space and helps with stability (as compared to a small bench top router table). Even a cheap and simple router table, which can be as crude as a piece of plywood with your router bolted to it on a couple of sawhorses and a piece of wood for a fence, is extremely useful. You can see mine here in my table saw wing with a flush trim bit in it:
  13. Yeah, the more I think about it the more I'm leaning toward using heavy duty piano hinges. It will be cheaper, and I think it might be easier. The ones I'm looking at are on Amazon so I may order them this week.
  14. In the end I went with Coop's suggestion and used the router table. I lined up the fence with the previous groove, then used paper to space it over 10 thou. That made all the difference to the fit. It only took me about 20 minutes to set up and run them all through. I also added a tiny chamfer on the edge of the panel going in the groove, so they'd slide in easier.
  15. I finally got the doors dry fit with the plywood panels. I ended up needing to loosen the fit a little in the router table, but right now it all looks good. Here's how the dry fit (and the preview of the full cabinet) looks: I'm happy with it so far. We'll see how I feel after the glue up. Right now the plan is to use hide glue. I still need to do some sanding first.