wareaglewoodworker

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About wareaglewoodworker

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Auburn, AL
  • Woodworking Interests
    Just starting out. I really like mission style and rustic furniture

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  1. Thanks to everyone for the feedback. A little more information on how I plan to use the saw. I do most of my breakdown of sheetgoods/roughstock outside in the carport portion of my shed. So great dust collection is a nice to have but not as paramount as it would be if I was doing my work in a confined space or a client's house. Speaking of the shed and carport. I have two framing projects in my near future for both of my sheds. Both will also likely need new roofs as well. That's one of the things that made me start considering the HK/HKC. It seems taylor-made for that type of work the
  2. The only thing I dislike about that piece are the feet. Being disconnected gives them the illusion of being asymmetric. Of course there is the possibility that they are asymmetric which I would also not like.
  3. I hesitated to post this question because I know it has potential to flame out of control. But here goes... Last fall I decided my next tool purchase would likely be a tracksaw. I was considering the Makita for the value but when the Festool HK 55 came out It really caught my eye. The miter system it offers is unique and seems like it has potential to expand the saws capability beyond just cutting parts out of sheet goods. Going that route I can see a few drawbacks. 1. I'll need to buy the tracks to perform the aforementioned task of breaking down sheet-goods. 2. The off-cut side o
  4. Another decent source for beginner information is http://www.startwoodworking.com/getting-started It's a site supported by finewoodworking. I don't think they've put up new content in a while but the information is still relevant. I started out by following DIY blogs I found through pintrest but eventually landed on Marc's website. Plans are pretty easy to find. Living in the digital age has it's advantages! If you're the type that doesn't mind going through a bit of junk-mail in your email folder I'd suggest signing up for the email news letters from the woodworking mags. I see spe
  5. That's the main reason I ended up with my 6" powermatic. I was all set to get the grizzly 8" with HH last spring but they were all somewhere on the other side of the pacific at the time. An 8" in any other brand was out of my price range so It came down to the Jet and Powermatic 6" offerings.
  6. My saw is probably very close to what you have. I have a 10" Craftsman contractor saw from the late 70's or Early 80's with a 1.5 HP motor. I've been using a full kerf Freud Premier fusion 40T combo blade in it. It's a great blade for crosscutting (I use a sled for clean and accurate cuts) but I do have issues ripping with that blade in the saw. It's very common for it to bog down on the hard stuff and it's also very common for me to get burning on woods like cherry or even maple. I'm going to pick up a thin-kerf ripping blade before my next project to see how much it helps. I looked
  7. This is good advice if you have a Direct Tools outlet anywhere around you they often have the rigid planer for $100 leas than list price. I picked up a blemished rigid oscillating spindle sander there last winter for about $80 off list. I've had good luck with my hf dust collector so far. I've used it unmodified to this point but want to grab a wynn filter and thien baffle for it soon. I ordered the rockier quick connect kit (still on backorder ) to speed up the moving from tool to tool. My shop is small enough that a tool to tool setup is feasible.
  8. Maybe anchor them with bolts riding in some channels in the countertop. Even better if the bolts had cams to lock the machines in place when not moving. Oh, and Welcome to the forums Sarah!
  9. Matthew did you ever pull the trigger on one of these bandsaws. I'm about to be in the market myself and was curious if you picked up the Rikon. The new features on that saw seem impressive. Tool-less adjustments for almost everything including drift. Estimated shipping for me puts it at about $1100 which is in the ballpark with the Laguna 1412 (free shipping) and Grizzly G0778/G0457 (free shipping)
  10. Diesel generators are a better bet unless you're just determined to be "green". Though if you had a water source running through your property you could build a millpond and one of those belt drive mills.
  11. I wanted to post a follow up on this subject after a couple of small projects. I have to say I'm very happy with the decision to buy the 54a. A buddy of mine helped me set of it up. Out of the crate it was aligned and ready to go. For starters I ran a cutoff from a 2x4 over it first to see how it worked. I put the calipers on it and the it was practically dead on at all four corners. I broke out the straight edge and Found less than 1000th of a difference between the tables and they were co-planar. We ran hard maple and cherry through it for a cutting board project and it worked perfectly. Thi
  12. Nice to know what I have to look forward to. I plan on upgrading to the helix head sooner rather than later but I might have to go with quickset knife replacements the first time around. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. If you want something very bright look at the puck lights by Lighting Ever (LE) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LE5J4WK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_uCTgxb6DYTTT3 They run about $9. I bought 7 of them for my kitchen and plan to put them in this weekend. As mentioned you'll need a 12 volt driver for them. You can use a decent gauge speaker wire (18-16)to make the connections. These run 3 watts each and are considerably brighter than strip lights and are setup in a flood pattern to cast wide light. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk