Idaho Andy

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Everything posted by Idaho Andy

  1. For marking or measuring angles I use a sliding T bevel and a Veritas bevel setter. Either set the sliding T bevel to the proper angle with the bevel setter, or, if I want to measure an angle, set the sliding bevel to the angle to be measured and then read it off of the bevel setter.,42936,50298,52403
  2. Just received a reply from the OSMO rep.... Top Oil only comes in a .5 liter container, and is very close to the Polyx formulation. The main difference is that OSMO has made the investment to get a third party “food safe” certification for Top Oil. In actual use, it’s unlikely that you would notice a difference between TopOil and Polyx.
  3. I have a summer place near Hayward, Wisconsin. My neighbor needed to drop a few trees, all native... the red oak he repurposed into flooring and I was able to talk him out of a couple of nice lengths of red maple (Acer rubrum)... soft maple. The area has a history of lumber jacks and timber harvest, and was actually able to have one of the older and still operating historic mills do a custom milling for me... all 8/4 live edge. I also found a local kiln operator to dry it. All I needed to do was schlep it back to my shop in Idaho and yes... I really lucked out with the figure!
  4. As Gary suggested, give it a try on a test piece, but it should work fine, there's no water in OSMO. The reason the white Scotch-Brite pads were suggested is that they do not absorb the finish like a rag would, and a 2x2 inch pad (roughly, maybe 2 11/16 x 2 5/8 ) is a good size to work with and limits the amount of finish in the pad (still plenty). White Scotch-Brite is also a match finer abrasive than 0000 steel wool. I believe the gray Scotch-Brite is the equivalent of 0000 the next finer being maroon and finally the white. BTW... one more photo... the barstools where an extended project for me, this is the first photo of the project
  5. I've been sucking information from this group for years and decided it's probably time to try and contribute a bit, so this is more of an info thread than a real question. Recently there was a thread asking about using oil/wax finish as a maintenance coat over existing oil/wax. I have just finished a Maloof inspired low back chair and couldn't get my regular "Maloof" oil/poly and oil/wax blend from Rockler. It seems Rockler, at least for now, no longer carries the product. As a standby, I used Tried and True oil/varnish and oil/wax (beeswax) finish. Three coats of each per the instructions. The bottom line is that it wasn't the finish I had hoped for. It had a lower sheen and seemed to grab you when you sat in the chair... I assumed that was due to the softer beeswax. My next project was a couple of maple bar stools, and I was again faced with a finish issue. I had heard Marc drop the names Rubio monocoat and OSMO so I started a bit of research. I wasn't looking to add color and it appeared that was a major selling point for Rubio monocoat. OSMO looked to be possible solution, I ordered a can to try. During the research I dropped a "contact us" email to the OSMO guys and a day later received a phone call for the return conversation... suffice it to say I was impressed with the service. We not only discussed application on raw wood but also the impact of renewal coats over exiting oil/wax finishes. Don't be mislead by the name OSMO Polyx ... there is no polyurethane in the finish, it's strictly plant oils ( read that right) and hardwax with a small amount of odorless mineral spirits. There are virtually no odors during use. I applied the finish with a 2x2inch white Scotch-Brite pad. About an 8 hour dry. Today I finished the final coats on both the bar stools AND re-coating the low back chair. I was amazed how much more the OSMO popped the grain and improved the sheen on the already finished walnut... unbelievably impressed. The difference was so profound that even the bride saw a huge improvement. As for the maple bar stools... it popped the figure and provided a flawless finish. Easy to apply and seems almost fool proof. A quick note here, OSMO poly hardwax oil was developed by the flooring industry, as a result the instructions that come with the product are for applying it to a floor.. the following is a link for furniture application I've taken the liberty of attaching a couple project photos. I hope if someone is trying to search OSMO as an option.. they might find this thread. It's my new go-to for any oil/wax applications.
  6. I did the upgrade and haven't looked back. Rotated the cutters once due to a minor nic...but felt I needed the practice to know how... that was three years ago.
  7. My Guess is that Clemenules has had his question answered and moved on :) BUT... I just received a call from the "guy from OSMO ... I had gone to the link left by Mark J, it was t he Canadian branch of OSMO, I decided to leave an email in the contact link and asked (after reading the FAQ) for a bit more specific info on using OSMO to recoat over an existing oil/wax finish. To my surprise, the Canadian guys forwarded my inquiry to the US branch for my location and the US guy decided it was easier to call and discus the issue. Great guy, great conversation and info. The bottom line is that there's no reason it shouldn't work just great. If the oil can't penetrate into the wood it will simply rub off, but more than likely on a previous oil/wax finish, it should penetrate and leave the hard wax coating as designed. He did suggest applying with a white Scotch-Brite pad as it will leave a better coating of the product and help eliminate any swirl. While, like most oil/wax finishes, you want to use a very thin coat, he suggested a cloth application (rags) might rub off too much. I thought I'd share the conversation not only for the positive answers, but for the customer service that frankly stunned me!!! Looks like these guys are serious about competing!!! Well... back to the's ain't gonna sand itself :(
  8. Rockler made a two part "Sam Maloof" finish (currently pulled from the shelves and not available)... the crux of the system was the same as Maloof had used, part one was oil/poly blend for three coats, Part two was oil/wax blend for another three coats. Obviously this last process would be applying oil over wax... which I believe was part of the concern. Tried and Tru runs a similar system but with softer bees wax in their oil/wax blend, but again, multiple coats of oil/wax blend. Like Mike S had mentioned regarding OSMO, the Sam Maloof finish from Rockler and the Tried and Tru all claim the benefit of touchups, and the Maloof finish even suggested using the finish as a maintenance coat when the shine started to fade. My question would be (not to hijack the thread) can I use OSMO over a cured "Tried and Tru" or cured Rockler finish. I believe that's simply another form of your original question. My gut says yes... but confirmation experience is always better :)
  9. Congrats on getting started... mine still makes me smile every time I walk in the shop... as has already been said, take your time and enjoy the journey !!!
  10. Eric... after considering your reply I had a couple follow-up questions for you. Is there any reason for the two part process, that is, T&T oil/varnish blend followed by T&T oil/wax, or would the oil/wax only suffice? Maloof used (and Rockler sells his formulas) the two part process. I've used the T&T oil/varnish blend on my bench and shop fixtures, it seems to stop 'stuff' from sticking, but not certain there's much more than standard BLO. I wonder if the Maloof oil/varnish would perform any better... it seems to use a tradition varnish/oil blend as opposed to the polimerized oil and resin. Any thoughts? Right now I'm tempted to just place the order with Rockler and figure if it was good enough for Maloof, it should be fine for me.
  11. Thanks for the kind words Dave, but I've got a long way to go to compete with the "Cabriole thing"..... THAT is a GREAT project!!!
  12. Eric ... thanks for the reply. Marc used 3 coats of T&T varnish oil blend followed by 3 more of the "Original" oil beeswax blend. The beef was initially it looked good, but after time it looked like it was a single coat of BLO, and little if any protection. He mentioned that it was dusted with a damp rag and that dusting raised the grain.... simply put, just not what he expected. Your correct on the Maloof blend... and Rockler sells the "Maloof" finish that Sam M had originally used, so I guess that's an option.
  13. I just had one of those "saved by the bell" moments... I was doing the final 320 grit sanding to the Maloof rocker Guild project, while listening to old episodes of Wood Talk. As I was doing the final sanding on the crest rail I listened to Marc express his disappointment with the finish he had used on his rocker. Things came to a screeching halt <REVERSE ALL ENGINES> The cans of Tried and True were NOT going to be opened this afternoon!!! After updating and reading the project comments, it was apparent that there had been a change in heart regarding the use of oil and wax finish on the rocker. Possible options suggested would be Watco Danish Oil or the good ol' wipe on poly ... I was really hoping to see that air dried walnut color 'pop' this afternoon... but that's gonna wait. I was hoping the extensive knowledge of this esteemed group might have the much needed guidance into "finishing" (OK...pun intended) this project. Your thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Andy keep the DNA off of the woodwork!
  14. I'm in the market for a new 1/4 inch blade 6tpi for hardwood on my Laguana 14-12... yep, makin' curves. I can't say I've been overly impressed with the Timberwolf blades I've been using... I had a bad run of welds (they replaced no problem) and various kinks right out of the package. The bottom line is I'm once again asking this distinguished group for your thoughts and recommendations... I was thinking of just placing an order with Highland, but it's always worth asking around TIA Andy
  15. I just posted a quick reply to another thread regarding Epoxy vs TB3.... as I wrote I realized the potential of high-jacking the thread down another rabbit hole so I figured I'd post the questions/comments here and get some of the views from this distinguished group regarding the various PVA glues. I see lot's of folks talking about TB2 and TB3... not sure why anyone would use TB3 for anything other than outdoor projects... and if you need waterproofing... I guess it's ok... TB2 seems real common, but I'm not sure why. Water resistance is nice, but it seems more plyable once dried and if I need to battle moisture, TB2 won't quite do the job. Absent was a discussion regarding TB1. TB1 works great, sands great and seems to be a lot more forgiving than the other two.... even gluing cedar strip canoes, the waterproof properties are no big deal as it all gets covered in glass cloth and epoxy. So TB1, 2 or 3 or maybe even good ol' Elmers Glue-All white glue, or Gorilla Glue's PVA... any preferences or dramatic differences? I used to be sold on TB2 and have recently stepped back to TB1 and have been very pleased... I even tried some Elmers Glue-All all for the clear final product. I just finished some wildlife housing projects with TB3... So far on the trial and error basis... I like TB1 for furniture. Would love to hear your thoughts.
  16. I've used both epoxy systems... like you, mostly for cedar strip canoes and kayaks. Both work about the same. I started with System 7 and currently use West Systems simply for availability.
  17. Nope.... just luck of the Draw... if that color is "lucky"
  18. Da Hammer... in an unrelated thread It has begun. (Roubo No.438271) the last post tonight shows Denette's shop...take a look in the background, he has a Hitachi sliding miter in a recessed bench.... looks pretty wide, but it's obviously been done... thought you might want to look
  19. I heat the shop with wood probably 90% of the time... I DID cheat, however, and installed a nice propane wall unit that I use when I need to keep a constant temp over night for finishes etc., but I have to admit, I do enjoy having the fire going on a snowy day just working' in the shop As for the FJ... I've had it for 30 of its 40 year life... and it was this January, during a snow storm when I pulled it into the shop, I was sitting by the fire... looking across the table saw at the cruiser, I realized it was the same baby-sh_t yellow as Powermatic LOL... but it's a great rig for up here
  20. LOL...Guys... Hang on a sec... Like I said, this was during the shop build out...EVERYTHING was clean then!!! LOL Under normal conditions I keep the "Powermatic FJ40" outside but this was during a snow storm earlier this winter... The other shot was during a recent table build, but you can see the miter station in the background. I'll have to grab a few more shots of what that wall of cabinets looks like today. Actually, the wood burner isn't all that bad... what doesn't burn gets swept up and "reprocessed" outside with the sawdust.
  21. I have a 12" Mikita configured in just that way, 7 feet on each side with a fence extension (removable via Kreg Slots dadoed into the left counter. It works well... but.... be careful and give it plenty of thought. Chop saws are pretty messy and there's really no good dust collection option. I have a 2" dust line that connects to the saw but it's still a mess. The removable fence works great, but needs to be aligned with a straight edge during set up... not a big deal, but something to consider in the work flow. When not in use, if you get lazy and leave the fence in place, it greatly diminishes the use of the infeed side and "stuff" begins to collect. Its a great idea (or at least I thought it was) as long as you have enough space to dedicate for that purpose. The problem comes with multiple use and again the mess that the chop saw makes. The wall of tools and clamps behind the saw is going to get covered in dust and require constant vacuuming. The pix are from the shop build in 2014... before fence and dust collection was installed, but you get the idea.
  22. You say it's a Jack...but you may use it as a shooter.... just curious, what kind of plane? Stanley #5 or low angle jack?
  23. Don't sweat the dust build up..or more probably worn velcro from slipped papers... they sell replacement velcro circles for the drill attachment... Chuck up the drill attachment in the lathe and use your skew to slice off the old velcro... then contact cement a new velcro circle back on and away you go. It's also a good idea to use an interface pad so you can ditch the pad when things get messy as opposed to messing up the primary drill attachment.
  24. Living pretty much in the boonies... I have to drive 15 miles to pick up my mail at the local PO (no rural delivery for me)... And from October through May, FedEx home delivery drops my packages off in town at the local hardware store (again 15 miles away)... UPS actually has a small 4WD pick-up with box on the back (painted UPS Brown w logos and all) that delivers year round... wanna guess my choice?