rkrueger

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Everything posted by rkrueger

  1. There is a materials list in the plans that include BF. The design is for a 10' x 44" table. The 8/4 tabletop is net 77bf, or 85 with 10% waste. The 16/4 assembly is 54 net bf, or 60 with 10% waste. My calculation was in all 8/4, so I would have to double the plans calculation of 60bf of 16/4, to 120bf of 8/4. That would be 205bf of 8/4 with 10% waste included on a 10' x 44" table, right? Add one bench with 10% waste calculation included (21bf 8/4 + 29bf 16/4) is another 79bf of 8/4 for a grand total of 284 bf of 8/4 stock. Mine is only 8' by 3', I calculated 252bf , which incl
  2. It's a beefy farmhouse style table. Tell me if I'm wrong here : It's an 8' x 3' dining table, plus 1 matching bench at 67" x 15". The top is 1 5/8" thick milled down from 8/4, and all the leg and trestle assembly is 3 1/2" thick milled from 16/4. I can put my calculations here if you think that's still way off.
  3. Thanks for all the great feedback everyone. She is starting to listen to reason and I'm pretty sure we've taken WRC off the table, no pun intended. I'm still trying to push cherry as I can get it for $4.65bf (before shipping) from Bell Forest. That's a heck of a lot cheaper than I can get for that locally. I haven't found a local source for hickory/pecan yet, but I'll keep looking. I'm at about 260bf of 8/4 at 8" width to get this done. If I can keep the cost at or below $4.50bf, I should be good.
  4. I appreciate the suggestion. I wasn't focusing on the work-ability aspect actually. This will be my first big project working with solid wood, so I really have no idea how much of a bear working with it would be. I have a grizzly G0771, I think it can handle most I throw at it. Plus I have access to a local Maker Space that has all the extra tools I need, like the jointer, planer, bandsaw, and a large SawStop if my ts proves too weak.
  5. It's for the indoor dining room, lol
  6. That's what I fear.... sopping wet. She liked the look of white oak, but expressed she would probably want it stained, which is not what I really want to get into. Someone mentioned some Superior/Clean alder to me.
  7. Yah, I wouldn't buy it from a box store, but from a lumber supplier. Funny though that the knotty look is what my wife wants, not the clear. I may have to convince her on the cherry.
  8. So it being air dried, I'm probably okay? I suppose I could bring a moisture meter and check before I haul it home. How much would be too much moisture?
  9. I asked if she cared about dents and the like, she said she was okay with it, so I guess that's okay.
  10. I'm about to start my first guild build with Cremona's Farmhouse Dining Table. I was originally going to do this in cherry, but my wife apparently doesn't like the look of aged cherry. While watching the Spag's refinishing video of his outdoor rustic table, my wife commented on how much she liked the look of that table. It was made of Western Red Cedar. How easy of a wood is this to work with? I have a local supplier that can give me rough sawn true 4 x 8's at $11.31/ln ft. They told me it was air dried. I live in Florida, but this will be an indoor dining table. I imagine the wood will
  11. Noted, Immortan, thanks for the tip!
  12. I pulled the trigger on the Makita RPC2301FC. Go big or go home
  13. While doing more research, I found Tools Plus has a $25 coupon code (Makita25) for Makita tools over $100. I'm thinking I might pick up that RPC2301FC for $275 after discount, although the Bosch at $90 cheaper is pretty alluring.
  14. @Immortan D How are you liking that Makita? It's just a tad more expensive than the Bosch, but it has more HP.
  15. I'm following the low profile plywood entertainment center build plans by Marc. He talks about how since the plywood is not true 3/4", figuring out the start and stop of 3/64ths or 32nds is more cumbersome than just measuring to the center line of the dado.
  16. I'm looking at pictures of the MRP23EVS, but I can't seem to see any center markings. If there are, I'm guessing they are on the flat edge of the base? If so, if I'm using a straight edge as a guide and I'm butting the flat edge up to guide, then that center marking isn't that useful to me in that sense, unless I got this all wrong. Cutting scrap, measuring, and marking my own is an alternative, but I think I would prefer something a little more accurate than what I mark up. Then again, I maybe just too scared. I suppose I could do a couple test cuts to ensure its accuracy.
  17. I'm about to start my plywood entertainment center build and I've found that my 15 year old Ryobi plunge router is missing the depth marker, and there is no center marker on the base. Sounds like a good excuse to purchase a new plunge router. I was looking at some of the Bosch versions, but I couldn't tell if their base has a center markers or not. I have a brand new Milwaukee fixed base router that also does not have this marking. How do I go about lining up the center of the bit for a cut if I don't have this?
  18. Is buying a tenoning jig worthy to consider then, and are there some recommendations for one? Or should I go with a dado set instead?
  19. @Eric. You are correct, I will be doing double doors for a total of 4 doors. My entertainment center is going to be a bit wider than Marc's, about 7 feet, and just a tad shorter. I fear you won't really want to see it when it's finished as the wife has requested it to be.... wait for it.... painted. The reasoning is this will be up against a 10 foot high wall that is clad in a variety of wood, and she thinks it will be too much wood on wood action. -------------- I do not have a domino unfortunately, I wish I did. If I start completing the long list of projects I've made for my
  20. What kind of hardware did you use? Do you happen to have a link to something similar? The doors will be small, about 12" x 18.5". Do you think I could get away with biscuits and edge gluing? I'm not opposed to mortise and tenons either, I'll just need to get my first dado blade set. Great advice with the glass and caulking. Thanks!
  21. Thanks, I'll see if I can find some vids on making stiles and rails on the ts.
  22. I'm about to start building a plywood entertainment center that is very similar to the one that Marc has shown on the free site. But instead of an 1/8" sliding panel door, I want to do hinged doors. At first I was just going to do solid wood/plywood doors with no embellishments as we're keeping it a more modern look. But now I think I want to do glass panel doors. I have never built a cabinet door before, but I see there are some router bits specially made for making glass door panel frames. Now I do not yet have a router table. It's on a very long list of projects yet to be built. Is it
  23. Consider spraying the interior wood surfaces of your shop with Boracare w/ moldcare. It will take care of potential molds and protect the wood from all kinds of pests.
  24. Yes, but if I glued it, I wouldn't be able to take it apart which means it would never leave this house if we move. With the last design I posted, it could be knocked down which is what I would need to 1) get it into the house, 2) get it out if we moved. Sure, I'd love to take a look at the sktechup file. So your table is 8' long and you're only using two bases. It looks pretty sturdy with only two. Would I be able to get away with only 2 bases for 9' long if I'm using 2" thick boards for the top? If I could then that would solve my problem of how to get the trestle joined and