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Everything posted by rkrueger

  1. Acutally, I just retested and I think I was measuring from the wrong side. I think my incra miter is slightly out of square. I'm going to go do some adjustments and test again. I tried to delete this post. Sorry for wasting time.
  2. I'm having a hell of a time with cross cutting the ends of a 3" x 3" milled boards so they are square. I've used a wixey angle guage and my eye+square to ensure the blade is a perfect 90 with the table. But each time I cut, it's not square. I've adjusted and adjusted to the point that I don't think it's the angle setting perpendicular to the table, but something else. What ever that something else is, I'm not sure and need some help. Other than blade angle, is there anything else that could be causing the top of the cut to be off. In the attached picture, the base of the square is where the board was on the table, and the rule goes to where the top of the blade was cutting. The blade is raised to its maximum height.
  3. I was able to get it replaced. Unfortunately that video is for the 540, mine is the 590.
  4. Since I'm using new bearings and not worried about saving the originals, I used a hammer and tapped the small bearing off the cutter head. The gear on the end is simply screwed in. I was able to unscrew it and put it onto the shelix. I did run into an issue though with the shaft on the drive side being a fraction of a mm too wide to fit the aluminum pulley. I had to sand the inside of the pulley down a bit and then used quite a bit of force to get it on. It's on now, but I doubt it's ever coming off again. Oh, and I had to remove all the inserts in order to slide the head in. That was a PITA to do and putting them back on was even more so. I'm waiting for a torque wrench to be delivered so I can tighten them properly, then I should be able to do a test run soon.
  5. I'd like to thank everyone here who was able to help me through this. I was able to finally get the cutter head removed. I'll document the last few steps here in case someone else needs the same help I did. I did have the lift the entire carriage up, but not fully off the posts. You can raise it high enough to get by those flat bars the would have prevented the cutter head from sliding out. The reason I couldn't pull it up any last time was due to the power cable being secured to the frame via a small bracket. Now that I had the carriage raised high enough, I needed to get access behind the chains. I thought I would have to disconnect the entire gear assembly, but once I removed the snap rings on the two sprockets and pulled them off, I could see the the end of the cutterhead and bearing clearly. There's a snap ring nestled inside that I thought I had to remove to get this out. I spent some time trying to pull it through, but it's not supposed to come off our out this way. Not seeing anything else holding this in, I took a wood block and lightly hammered the end of the sprocket in the pic above. The cutter heard slowing slid out. Once both bearings were free of the housing, I was able to slide it all the way out. Now I just need to figure out how to get this small gear off the end of this cutter so I can install it on the new one!
  6. It does help, and it will certainly help when I put it back together. It appears I would have to lift the entire carriage off the posts. I tried raising to the top and lifting it, but it didn't really budge. I may need a second person to help.
  7. Progress... Pulley is off, snap ring is off.... and..... still stuck I did contact Byrd and they weren't able to help. New Pics... thoughts on next steps?
  8. I did buy some snap ring pliers ahead of time just in case. Here are both ends of the Shelix head since I'm not sure which is the drive side I also took the bolt off of the pulley and it looks like there's a nut that I can unscrew, but I don't have a big enough socket for it right now.
  9. I'll try the pulley first and see what I see. It will need to come off to put on the new head anyway
  10. Only thing in the box was a paper that tells you how to rotate or replace the inserts, and a link to installation instructions: https://www.byrdtool.com/tech-corner There is not one specific to my planer, unfortunately.
  11. I finally took the leap and got myself a Shelix cutter head for my trusty Delta 22-590. It arrives Wednesday, so I decided I'd get the original cutter head removed today in preparation. I thought there'd be at least one instruction set or video out that that covered this, but I'll be damned if I can't find a single thread or video that covers this. I've torn the thing down to about as far as I can go and I'm not sure what else I need to do to get this cutter head out. I took a few pictures, but not sure how helpful that would be in trying to figure this out. I can post them and work from there, but I figure I'd see if anyone out there done this with this planer before? Or perhaps is aware of a resource that covers it. Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  12. There is a materials list in the plans that include BF. The design is for a 10' x 44" table. The 8/4 tabletop is net 77bf, or 85 with 10% waste. The 16/4 assembly is 54 net bf, or 60 with 10% waste. My calculation was in all 8/4, so I would have to double the plans calculation of 60bf of 16/4, to 120bf of 8/4. That would be 205bf of 8/4 with 10% waste included on a 10' x 44" table, right? Add one bench with 10% waste calculation included (21bf 8/4 + 29bf 16/4) is another 79bf of 8/4 for a grand total of 284 bf of 8/4 stock. Mine is only 8' by 3', I calculated 252bf , which included some waste, and rounded up to 260.
  13. It's a beefy farmhouse style table. Tell me if I'm wrong here : It's an 8' x 3' dining table, plus 1 matching bench at 67" x 15". The top is 1 5/8" thick milled down from 8/4, and all the leg and trestle assembly is 3 1/2" thick milled from 16/4. I can put my calculations here if you think that's still way off.
  14. Thanks for all the great feedback everyone. She is starting to listen to reason and I'm pretty sure we've taken WRC off the table, no pun intended. I'm still trying to push cherry as I can get it for $4.65bf (before shipping) from Bell Forest. That's a heck of a lot cheaper than I can get for that locally. I haven't found a local source for hickory/pecan yet, but I'll keep looking. I'm at about 260bf of 8/4 at 8" width to get this done. If I can keep the cost at or below $4.50bf, I should be good.
  15. I appreciate the suggestion. I wasn't focusing on the work-ability aspect actually. This will be my first big project working with solid wood, so I really have no idea how much of a bear working with it would be. I have a grizzly G0771, I think it can handle most I throw at it. Plus I have access to a local Maker Space that has all the extra tools I need, like the jointer, planer, bandsaw, and a large SawStop if my ts proves too weak.
  16. It's for the indoor dining room, lol
  17. That's what I fear.... sopping wet. She liked the look of white oak, but expressed she would probably want it stained, which is not what I really want to get into. Someone mentioned some Superior/Clean alder to me.
  18. Yah, I wouldn't buy it from a box store, but from a lumber supplier. Funny though that the knotty look is what my wife wants, not the clear. I may have to convince her on the cherry.
  19. So it being air dried, I'm probably okay? I suppose I could bring a moisture meter and check before I haul it home. How much would be too much moisture?
  20. I asked if she cared about dents and the like, she said she was okay with it, so I guess that's okay.
  21. I'm about to start my first guild build with Cremona's Farmhouse Dining Table. I was originally going to do this in cherry, but my wife apparently doesn't like the look of aged cherry. While watching the Spag's refinishing video of his outdoor rustic table, my wife commented on how much she liked the look of that table. It was made of Western Red Cedar. How easy of a wood is this to work with? I have a local supplier that can give me rough sawn true 4 x 8's at $11.31/ln ft. They told me it was air dried. I live in Florida, but this will be an indoor dining table. I imagine the wood will be quite wet at that 16/4 thickness air dried? I would resaw most these in half so I have 4x4's for the legs and trestles, and 3 boards would be resawn vertically into 2 x 8's for the tabletop and breadboards. Final dimensions would be 3.5" x 3.5", and 1 5/8" x 6" Should I have concerns? They were telling me that this wood was very stable. Anything else I should know or be aware of?
  22. Noted, Immortan, thanks for the tip!
  23. I pulled the trigger on the Makita RPC2301FC. Go big or go home
  24. While doing more research, I found Tools Plus has a $25 coupon code (Makita25) for Makita tools over $100. I'm thinking I might pick up that RPC2301FC for $275 after discount, although the Bosch at $90 cheaper is pretty alluring.