rkrueger

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Posts posted by rkrueger

  1. There is a materials list in the plans that include BF.   The design is for a 10' x 44" table.  The 8/4 tabletop is net 77bf, or 85 with 10% waste.
    The 16/4 assembly is 54 net bf, or 60 with 10% waste.  My calculation was in all 8/4, so I would have to double the plans calculation of 60bf of 16/4, to 120bf of 8/4. That would be 205bf of 8/4 with 10% waste included on a 10' x 44" table, right?

    Add one bench with 10% waste calculation included (21bf 8/4 + 29bf 16/4) is another 79bf of 8/4 for a grand total of 284 bf of 8/4 stock. 

    Mine is only 8' by 3', I calculated 252bf  , which included some waste, and rounded up to 260.

  2. It's a beefy farmhouse style table. Tell me if I'm wrong here :

    It's an 8' x 3' dining table,  plus 1 matching bench at 67" x 15".   The top is 1 5/8" thick milled down from 8/4,   and all the leg and trestle assembly is 3 1/2" thick milled from 16/4.

    I can put my calculations here if you think that's still way off.

     

    FHT-2.jpg

  3. Thanks for all the great feedback everyone. She is starting to listen to reason and I'm pretty sure we've taken WRC off the table, no pun intended. I'm still trying to push cherry as I can get it for $4.65bf (before shipping) from Bell Forest. That's a heck of a lot cheaper than I can get for that locally. I haven't found a local source for hickory/pecan yet, but I'll keep looking. I'm at about 260bf of 8/4 at 8" width to get this done. If I can keep the cost at or below $4.50bf, I should be good.

  4. I appreciate the suggestion.  I wasn't focusing on the work-ability aspect actually. This will be my first big project working with solid wood, so I really have no idea how much of a bear working with it would be.
     

    I have a grizzly G0771,  I think it can handle most I throw at it. Plus I have access to a local Maker Space that has all the extra tools I need, like the jointer, planer, bandsaw, and a large SawStop  if my ts proves too weak.

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  5. I'm about to start my first guild build with Cremona's Farmhouse Dining Table. I was originally going to do this in cherry, but my wife apparently doesn't like the look of aged cherry.  :blink:

    While watching the Spag's refinishing video of his outdoor rustic table, my wife commented on how much she liked the look of that table. It was made of Western Red Cedar. How easy of a wood is this to work with? I have a local supplier that can give me rough sawn true 4 x 8's at $11.31/ln ft. They told me it was air dried. I live in Florida, but this will be an indoor dining table. I imagine the wood will be quite wet at that 16/4 thickness air dried? I would resaw most these in half so I have 4x4's for the legs and trestles, and 3 boards would be resawn vertically into 2 x 8's for the tabletop and breadboards.  Final dimensions would be 3.5" x 3.5", and 1 5/8" x 6"

    Should I have concerns? They were telling me that this wood was very stable. Anything else I should know or be aware of?



     

  6. 2 hours ago, Just Bob said:

    For the most part all of my jigs are based on that distance.   How would the knowing the center of the bit location help?  I am very curious because I use a router in almost every project.

    I'm following the low profile plywood entertainment center build plans by Marc. He talks about how since the plywood is not true 3/4", figuring out the start and stop of 3/64ths or 32nds is more cumbersome than just measuring to the center line of the dado.

     

     

  7. I'm looking at pictures of the MRP23EVS, but I can't seem to see any center markings. If there are, I'm guessing they are on the flat edge of the base? If so, if I'm using a straight edge as a guide and I'm butting the flat edge up to guide, then that center marking isn't that useful to me in that sense, unless I got this all wrong.

    Cutting scrap, measuring, and marking my own is an alternative, but I think I would prefer something a little more accurate than what I mark up. Then again, I maybe just too scared. I suppose I could do a couple test cuts to ensure its accuracy.

  8. I'm about to start my plywood entertainment center build and I've found that my 15 year old Ryobi plunge router is missing the depth marker,  and there is no center marker on the base. Sounds like a good excuse to purchase a new plunge router. :)

    I was looking at some of the Bosch versions, but I couldn't tell if their base has a center markers or not. I have a brand new Milwaukee fixed base router that also does not have this marking. How do I go about lining up the center of the bit for a cut if I don't have this? 

  9. @Eric.

    You are correct, I will be doing double doors for a total of 4 doors. My entertainment center is going to be a bit wider than Marc's, about 7 feet, and just a tad shorter. I fear you won't really want to see it when it's finished as the wife has requested it to be.... wait for it....  painted. The reasoning is this will be up against a 10 foot high wall that is clad in a variety of wood, and she thinks it will be too much wood on wood action.

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    I do not have a domino unfortunately, I wish I did. If I start completing the long list of projects I've made for myself, I can probably justify the purchase. I still need a jointer and bandsaw though, so those would probably come first anyway.

    I don't have a tenoning jig yet either, but I could get one if there is one that comes highly recommended. I could definitely use the practice making m&t since I have yet to have done that before. But since this will be painted, perhaps a bridle joint would be the easiest? 

  10.  

    11 hours ago, treeslayer said:

    i built a stereo cabinet with glass doors and used hardware just for glass doors, no wood frame at all. whatever route you go use tempered glass, more expensive but well worth it for safety's sake, plate glass breaks in all sharp edges, tempered does not.

    What kind of hardware did you use? Do you happen to have a link to something similar?

     

    11 hours ago, wdwerker said:

    If you are planning tall glass doors either use dominos or tenons in the 4 corners for strength . You can make a simple square edged frame, cut mortices & tenons to assemble it then rabbet the back to accept the glass.  

    The doors will be small, about 12" x 18.5".  Do you think I could get away with biscuits and edge gluing? I'm not opposed to mortise and tenons either, I'll just need to get my first dado blade set.

    Great advice with the glass and caulking. Thanks!

  11. I'm about to start building a plywood entertainment center that is very similar to the one that Marc has shown on the free site. But instead of an 1/8" sliding panel door, I want to do hinged doors. At first I was just going to do solid wood/plywood doors with no embellishments as we're keeping it a more modern look. But now I think I want to do glass panel doors. I have never built a cabinet door before, but I see there are some router bits specially made for making glass door panel frames.

    Now I do not yet have a router table. It's on a very long list of projects yet to be built. Is it possible to use these w/o router table? If that is not possible, are there any recommendations on how to build such a door with one?

     

  12. 23 hours ago, Dknapp34 said:

    Overlapping tenons would probably work. Not sure how you'd drawn bore them with the angled legs, though. Once the tenons are glued in you, should have plenty of strength to pull the whole thing together with the wedges on the ends.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

     

    Yes, but if I glued it, I wouldn't be able to take it apart which means it would never leave this house if we move. With the last design I posted, it could be knocked down which is what I would need to 1) get it into the house, 2) get it out if we moved.

     

    4 hours ago, Jason Hotze said:

    Don't mean to keep putting this table on so much but it's looks just like what your doing. This was long grained pine from a hardwood dealer in NC. I paid 2.50 a bf and it was about 350 dollars all together. I have the Sketchup for it if you need it or have any questions about it. The top is just under 2" thick and 8' by 40"

    Walnut would be astronomical at about 4 times the price where I am at and that's not including the waste from removing the sapwood.

     

    Sure, I'd love to take a look at the sktechup file.  So your table is 8' long and you're only using two bases. It looks pretty sturdy with only two. Would I be able to get away with only 2 bases for 9' long if I'm using 2" thick boards for the top?  If I could then that would solve my problem of how to get the trestle joined and through the center base.

    How did you join those cross beams in the bases?