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Everything posted by rkrueger

  1. So fellas, I've redesigned my table based on Shannon's design, which is longer at 9', and added a 3rd trestle base in the middle for stability, and some feet b/c the wife liked that. Seeing the model now, I realize why in my original post the bases have the vertical beam, so that it may hold the trestle all the way through each of the bases. The problem I now have using Shannon's trestle design with a 3rd base is that there is supposed to be just two tenon end points that are held with a wedge. Since I can't end in the middle, I'm not sure what the best way to go about this should be. Do
  2. Some good news. She likes Shannon's design, so I'll go with that. She likes the walnut.... but not the price. So I've been told to make a decision on two options: 1- Walnut top with painted wood bottom 2- Full table out of ash or alder and stained. hrmmmm..... descisions
  3. I'll run it by her for sure! Oh I most definitely did consider that the top has to be removable. We'd never get it into the house otherwise. I forgot to put a top rail in my X design. I'll have to redo those in my sketchup. $800 is not terrible, but I'd certainly prefer to spend less. More to think about. Good ideas on the oak wood there. Something I will definitely consider. In regards to the saving lumber, are you suggesting to just run another .5" piece along the length of the two boards that make up the side edges of the
  4. You're totally right. I wasn't thinking about that. Like I said, my first build
  5. Roughly , 40bf at 8/4 thickness and 24bf at 16/4 thickness this doesn't include the feet or the 1x6 runner That is what I'm trying to avoid
  6. Got a ballpark estimate? I'm still trying to convince her to go natural, but I'm not getting my hopes up. Nice! Although his design is slightly different than the one I have pictured. Are you saying it is not properly designed? I'll start calling around to see what's available.
  7. Hello friends! I'm about to endeavor on my first real furniture build and it will be a fairly basic dining room table. Initially, my wife found that dreaded Ana White pedestal dining table that's been making the rounds for years now and she wanted me to build it. We just moved about a year ago and it's taken a long time to get my garage and tools setup to finally begin to do some work. During that time I did a lot of research and found that the AW design was seriously flawed b/c it doesn't allow for movement. I'm glad I didn't have the setup when I did as I would have built this table, an
  8. i am certainly not insisting on a mitered corner, it's the only idea I had really which is why I started this thread. This is a great idea for me to work with. Thanks for sharing! Since the top edges of the case would be covered by the wooden collar at the lid, and the sides facing the wall would be unseen, there would be no need for me to finish those edges. I just couldn't think of a good idea for the corners and joinery as I'm still very new to the hobby, but you've covered that for me. Thanks again!
  9. Most use an external thermostat that has a sensor fed inside the the unit. The freezer plugs directly into this and it shuts the power off and on. There are others who have went a bit fancier and wired in their own digital thermostats.
  10. The coils are definitely in the sidewalls, which is why you build a wood collar on top so you don't drill through the walls. Being that I'm not using it to freeze, or get close to freezing, it's not working that hard I'm thinking. I've been seeing ideas for this on pinterest. There's a lot out there. Of course it doesn't mean that their freezers are still working today or not having issues. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/39125090487193246/
  11. You mean something like this? You're right, that's something I'll have to consider and research.
  12. I converted a chest freezer into a kegfreezer a few years ago and I have to say, it was one of the best things I ever decided to do. My wife and I had it in a couple rentals in a side room out of the way, so it wasn't much of an eyesore. But now we bought our first house together and the only good spot we have for it is in our kitchen/dining area. Needless to say the wife is not a fan of the white chest freezer look in her contemporary/rustic styled kitchen. I'm allowed to keep it though, as long as I gussy it up and make it look nice and fit in with the decor. My plan is to wrap the thre
  13. So for another $150 I could get brand new, an extra HP, and delivered to my house? How is the quality on Grizzly jointers?
  14. I found a copy of the manual Oh, and what's the best way to move a 400lb tool?
  15. Tell me about the issue with the knob. I'm new to woodworking and never owned a jointer before. Serial number : 8561181 This would indicate it was manufactured in 85?
  16. There's someone selling a Powermatic 8" jointer Model 60, 72" infeed/outfeed for $1000 on craigslist. I happen to be in the market for a jointer, and an 8" would be wonderful, but I have no idea about these original models or what I should look out for, or if they're any good, is it a good price? "2HP 3 knife Powermatic Jointer Model 60 with 2 extra knife sets. 72" infeed outfeed"
  17. I probably shouldn't, but I'd need to buy a few more tools to make it
  18. I did a little more poking around and I'm now realizing that my G0771 rails/fence are not Biesemyer but a hybrid (my first tablesaw), which means I'll need to purchase new rails in addition to a new fence. For the VSCT, you have to make your own which I'm not sure I'm up for. I may have to consider some of the other options you all have presented here.
  19. That's was my kind of thinking as well...
  20. You can adjust the front to back so that it is parallel to the blade, but there's no adjustment to change top to bottom tilt of the fence to account for it being perpendicular to the table surface.
  21. I'm looking to replace the stock fence for my Grizzly G0771 with something that allows at least wing adjustments so that the fence can be properly adjusted to square from the table surface. I started looking around and there are quite a few options. I like the idea of the Very Super Cool Tools t-square and extruded aluminum fence, but wonder if $300 ish may be a bit overkill on a $700ish TS. I probably wouldn't be doing any custom jigs utilizing the t-slots too soon as I'm still fairly new to woodworking, but it'd be nice as an option. Still, does it makes sense to spend that much on thi
  22. I actually looked at those, but I need a flush mount and would prefer 5000k on the color. They do have some flush mount options available for a good price too, but those are sitting at 4000k as well. I think I'm going to go with the LED T8 with ballast bypass. The only problem is the ones with high CRI are pretty expensive (ie Toggled). I used Design Lights QPL to find ones that fit my criteria, and there were many, but virtually none of them are readily available or easy to order.
  23. Whoa! I see the caveat already... each of these LED tubes are just about as expensive as an entire fixture...