Denette

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Everything posted by Denette

  1. I'm making a modern-style sideboard/entertainment center thing. I've got it pretty much figured out, the design is pretty simple, but I'm torn when it comes to grain direction. The front is divided roughly into thirds. The center third has two drawers (over & under) that will have solid front panels with the grain running like you'd expect - horizontally. Those doors are flanked by doors on either side, and these doors will also be solid wood - not a frame & panel. The doors will be almost square - 14"x14.25" roughly. Convention would say to orient the grain vertically on the doors, but that would also have the weird effect of making it perpendicular to the drawers, which are at the same level. I sketched it up. Traditional orientation is on top, alternative orientation is on bottom. Personally I'm leaning toward lining up all the grain parallel, since it's one of the defining traits of modern furniture that it has simplicity and looks clean, and to me I feel like making it all look and feel like one continuous grain pattern across the front would help in that. Just thought I'd pick the brains of the think tank.
  2. Denette

    Grain direction opinions?

    Ooh, just realized something else, too! Since I'm wanting to have just simple solid wood doors on knife hinges, I'm going to have to have the grain run vertically like a normal door panel - that way any movement would not upset the hinges by binding them tighter or pulling them looser. If I put the grain so that movement will occur along the width, the worst that could happen is a tight door in the summer or a wide gap in the winter, but if I were to put the grain so that expansion occurred vertically, I could blow the case apart if I were careless -Tricky tricky! I feel like my question was silly now. Always learning.
  3. Denette

    Grain direction opinions?

    Neat idea! If I didn't have all my materials already almost there, I'd totally do it. As it is, this project is from leftovers from a previous large cherry project and I haven't spent a penny on the wood - I'm running low on materials, haha. Also, I feel like I should mention that the photo I posted yesterday is of a dry fit - those gaps are NOT final, haha. Anyone have any strong opinions on solid wood cabinet doors that are basically just edge-glued solid cherry? Because that's the plan. I've been told it could pose a movement issue, but, at the same time, it'll be in my own house and I could just take the doors off and trim them down as needed if there is a problem when the sweaty days of summer cause expansion.
  4. Denette

    Grain direction opinions?

    Still not to the doors or drawers yet, but here’s where we are at!
  5. Denette

    Grain direction opinions?

    Thanks for the feedback! So, problem #1 is that my SketchUp model was stupid - I rendered the grain of the drawers the opposite of what it will be. The drawer grain will run horizontally, contrary to the image. Oops. With that in mind, I’m taking some advice from another user and making my doors vertical while the drawer fronts are horizontal. Since it’s not all continuous grain from ya same board, lining it up in parallel would only emphasize that I used different boards; making them perpendicular would hide the mismatched grain better and not detract from the overall design.
  6. Denette

    Kumiko Lamp

    I got The Why and How of Woodworking for Christmas and quickly contracted kumiko fever. I hit a brief lull between projects and realized that I hadn't made anything for my own house since 2017, which is just unacceptable. I decided to make a kumiko lamp to replace a sad little Walmart lamp my wife and I have had ever since we got married. I started by making the jigs: Two jigs with a simple screwed-in stop in the right position. Snug enough on the sides to hold the kumiko piece in place. The kumiko is primarily ash, but the thinner pieces are white oak. It just happened that way with the scrap I had. I think it looks nice. Things were going great until I got a little TOO in the groove and a piece of white oak snagged on my chisel, and the chisel jerked out of place. Had to get four stitches in my left index finger. Not actually that bad of a cut, but it was weirdly shaped and I did not want it getting infected. I've cut my fingers before, and the wounds never seem to close up right without help. So at that point I took a week off. After it healed up, I got back on it! I decided I wanted a walnut frame. I had some walnut leftovers from my last project, so I The walnut is just simple mortise-and-tenon joinery. Super simple with a dado blade and hollow-chisel mortiser. The rails have a very slight rabbet that receives the kumiko panel. Not pictured is how I added a border to the outside of the kumiko so there is a nice border of light-colored ash around the edges. The top is not going to stay like that - I'll have to make something to hold it in place. Next up is to sand the kumiko panels until they're pretty. I'm also looking forward to getting to apply the rice paper to the inside of the panels. I'm going to use a thin double-sided carpet tape between the rice paper and the kumiko. I think it'll look pretty sharp! I still want to trim the legs a bit shorter, and I still want to put some sort of curve on the legs - something kind of like what Cremona did on his son's twin-size log bed's legs, if you remember that thing. Other than that, I have got a SWEET idea for the light installation. I bought some remote-controlled RGB LED strips that I'm going to adhere to a cylinder to basically create my own intense, huge, super-bright light LED light bulb. The rice paper should diffuse it enough that it will look incredible. This thing is going to be really cool.
  7. Denette

    Kumiko Lamp

    I got the whole thing pretty well together. It took a little fiddling with the fit of the panels, and took a bit of creativity to get the homemade LED strip bulb mounted in such a way that would still allow me to retrofit a regular bulb later on if I so choose, but I got it! Disassembled it, put a ⅛” chamfer on all the edges, and then set out to figure out the solution to the last bit of this puzzle: how the heck to install that top panel. Due to the fact that I’ve kind of been winging it, the top ended up being a casualty. It’s a good bit too small. The square kumiko panel can’t work as is, so I am going to have to either remake it or modify it. It’s currently fudged into place on top of a larger kumiko frame that is large enough to rest on top of the rails. It’s not going anywhere right away, anyway. I’ve got to figure something out, though. So, for now, the project is on a hard pause. Since this project is for my own house, I have dry-assembled and pre-finished the entire lamp. For a lamp that will never be touched, the joinery alone is plenty to hold it together. I’m doing this because I’m uncertain about those legs. Are they too tall? I’m unsure. I’m also not even about to let that top be this lame when I call this one complete. So it gets to perch in the living room this week, looking finished but secretly still devoid of glue in the frame. I’ll mull it over.
  8. Have y'all heard the news? Anyone know what that means for these forums?
  9. Denette

    Well, the WoodTalk Podcast is over.

    Crap, sorry! They've posted it all over Facebook and Instagram already.
  10. Denette

    Kumiko Lamp

    Got to work on it a little more today! Spent most of the time sanding the centers of the kumiko flush before adding the outer border. It’s not the “right” way of doing it, but it’s how it worked out this time. Anyway, after that I cut the inset into the legs and rails that will accept the panels from behind but not let them fall out. Each side panel is more or less held in place by a 1/16” rabblet lip that runs around the whole thing. I also put a coat of spray shellac on the first panel to dry up and then used double-sides tape to attach the rice paper. I cut off the excess tape and paper with a knife, and then got to work on the light bulb. The light bulb is... different. I got a 12 foot self-adhesive RGBW LED light, like is often used under kitchen cabinets. I then made a plus-shaped “bulb” out of a 4” wide piece of plywood. I half-lapped it over an identical piece to give it a 3D form, just like what they use inside LED light bulbs if you’ve ever taken one apart. I spoiled the lights around carefully, and tested them out. I’m getting excited about this thing, it’s going to be very custom and very cool. The light set comes with a remote to control color and brightness. There’s also a selection of modes which cycle the colors, which is also awesome! as fun as the LED lights are, I’m not putting all my money on that horse. The plywood of the “bulb” will be screwed into place and easily replaceable if these lights end up not being great in the lamp.
  11. Hey everyone! Back from the dead. Here’s what I’ve been up to for the last three months or so! https://imgur.com/gallery/heMQGGJ It’s a sideboard that will serve as an entertainment center for a client. Solid cherry all over, with cherry veneer plywood for the shelves, back panel, and internal vertical components. The only screws in it are holding the ledger strips in place and fastening the top via figure-8 fasteners. I’m pretty happy with it!
  12. Denette

    Kumiko Lamp

    Yes, but I didn't want to risk it. My wife is NOT a fan of DIY wound repair. And it was in a spot that moves a lot and gets wet a lot, which is exactly the condition in which CA glue would fail.
  13. Quote of the day right there.
  14. Denette

    Tool ID help?

    Ishitani Furniture on YouTube has this thing: He uses it to cut tenon cheeks mostly. It’s incredible. He adjusts the fence position and table height, and the blade stays in place. He scoots the wood forward and pulls it back, and bam, perfect tenon cheeks every time. Does anyone even know what this is called? I’d look into buying one, but I can’t find anything about it anywhere.
  15. Denette

    Walnut Vanity

    I'm making a vanity for a client. Solid wood exterior with plywood interior and drawers. They want it to be dark, so we went with walnut. Here's the material as it arrived: I finished laying out the pieces and got all the solid wood down to its rough dimension yesterday. It's my first time to lay out the pieces like this - I don't know why I haven't done it before, it's a great preview & helps me figure out the grain orientation a lot better. I'm 95% happy with the layout as it currently is. The only piece I'm not in love with is the center stile on the right side - just a case of making do with limited stock. It'll be next to a toilet for heaven's sake, so I'm not super concerned. If I'm committing grave error let me know, but I don't think it's THAT bad. Good color match at least. My client wants it darker. I hate, hate, HATE using stain, so I am looking for a better way. I played with some dark danish oil, to moderately pleasing results. I was reading Jeff Jewitt's finishing book last night and he mentioned Iron Sulfate as a way to semi-naturally / chemically darken walnut, so I'm going to order some of that and test it out. It's pretty cheap and seems very safe - it's sold as an iron supplement for people to drink, so it's probably way safer than ordinary stain anyway. I'm planning on going the utility over grace route for the drawers and cabinet hinges - this is a working cabinet, not a piece going in an art gallery. Full-extension self/soft-closing drawer slides, blumotion hinges. Haven't got my mind settled on pull/knob hardware yet. And thankfully, the client is taking care of the countertop and plumbing. All I have to do is come and install it in place. Should be a fun build! It's my first piece of real walnut furniture, aside from some dabbling in small projects like cutting boards, bandsaw boxes, and floating shelves. Walnut is niiiiiiice.
  16. Denette

    Tool ID help?

    How on earth did you find that? Awesome sleuthing. Looks like it's not a common enough tool to even hope to find one in the US. The little diagram in the documents there shows them in a lot of countries worldwide, but not here.
  17. Denette

    Walnut Vanity

    Thanks! I figured that doing a Norm job with glue, screws, and biscuits was appropriate here. I mean, the outside looks nice, the drawers will be functional until the end of time, and the inside of the vanity - well, it looks just fine. So I'm content. I predicted my hours and quoted a price at the beginning, before shelling out a penny on materials. I stayed pretty well within my estimates. I just closed my eyes and did the whole project in my imagination, right? Lumber sorting, design work, selecting boards, milling, joinery, surface prep, glue-ups, finish application, delivery & installation. I typed up each category and an estimate of how long each task would take in hours. For every imagined duration, I doubled it - because in my imagination everything goes perfectly and I've had a good night's rest and a cup of coffee. I find that my own honest estimates end up being about half of the real-world time taken, so the hours I bill for are usually a pretty good match with how long I actually do spend on a project. It's a lot of thinking work up front the first few times you do it, but I've gotten into a groove with estimating the number of hours in a build and I've gotten halfway decent at it. Now the only difficulty is finding the hours in the day to actually get out there, right? This project was quoted at 52 hours, $15/hr. Ended up costing my client a hair more than $1300 once materials were added in. And I'd say that my estimate was, if not "correct," at least close enough to correct. Thanks! I don't know what kind of countertop, but I know they're getting it custom made, too.
  18. Denette

    Walnut Vanity

    Well, it's pretty much done! There are nicks and dings here and there to polish up. One drawer needs its slide readjusted to get it to close more naturally. But the essentials are done! This project was just kind of average. It paid. It was fun to work with solid walnut! But there was nothing too special about it. I made a lot less fuss than usual about using proper joinery on the plywood elements on the inside since this was a commissioned project and on a pretty clear schedule. I opted for glue, biscuits, and screws for a lot of the plywood's joinery. The walnut is all made with solid wood joinery. Kind of an odd pairing. But I'm fairly happy with the results. The client wants to see it in place and then install the pulls themselves, which has me a little miffed. I'd have liked to have managed that myself, but I guess it's not rocket surgery. I just hope it turns out well. Finish on the walnut is boiled linseed oil topped with several coats of Minwax wipe-on poly, satin finish. Sanded the finish coats progressively up to 320, then hit with #0000 steel wool before the last coat. I'm satisfied. The BLO job really helped darken up the wood. Any thoughts, comments, or questions? I know I haven't posted much on this build, but it's all been so straightforward.
  19. Denette

    I've never done this...

    I think there’s a certain freedom in remembering that it’s just furniture. Don’t take it TOO seriously. As long as your client isn’t asking for something immoral, distasteful, unsafe, structurally unsound, or just utterly hideous, just make the thing. Whenever I do client work, I always do a 5-10-minute spiel on why wood should just be its own color, so if you want brown furniture you want walnut, red is cherry, and so on. If they go for it, awesome! If they’re reluctant, I crunch numbers to show them that the added cost of labor and finishing materials would usually make it cost the same as the better wood. If they say no and demand stain, I let it be and am thankful for the work. All that to say, in your situation I would probably check around and see if a I could source some sort of exotic that is darker naturally, then calculate the cost of that versus the cost of labor to add the finish. Maybe your client would get an excited tingly feeling at the prospect of having something more exotic. Maybe not. if you have to dye it or stain it, hey, just make it look good! This is a matter of taste. You aren’t a monster for darkening up some walnut. (You would be if you used it for firewood.) And if you feel like a sellout, you’re in good company. Michelangelo didn’t like all the rules the Catholic Church handed him while he was painting the Sistine Chapel, so he hid little artistic protests all over it, including lots of unnecessary nudity. So make yourself feel better with tiny hidden protests. I do it. On a project where the client demands bad decisions, sometimes I’ll write complaints on the tenons before gluing them into place. Maybe I’ll make the back beautiful so they’ll know what they are missing by hamstringing me. Maybe I’ll do a perfect job on everything they didn’t micromanage me on, just to say “this is how nice it WOULD have been if SOMEONE had just let me WORK.” I might be a little passive aggressive. But it makes me feel better, hahahahaha.
  20. Denette

    I love this book

    Just got it for Christmas, myself. Got to meet Marc Adams at a nearby seminar and it was his singular recommendation. I love it.
  21. One thing about nails is that they’re hard to control. A ¼” piece of material is pretty much guaranteed to have a nail bust through the side. Have you considered pre-drilling the holes and using very small screws? Pre-drilling would give you much better control.
  22. Denette

    Sideboard Design

    I would also go with a subtler contrast between the frame and panels. That harsh contrast will get old after a while. Something like the contrast between, say, white oak and ash - that tends to work well on larger-scale projects. The general rule I live by is that the larger the scale, the smaller the contrast. Tiny bandsaw box? Contrast it up, that little thing needs to yell to be noticed. Desk organizer? Have fun. Even small details like handles, pulls, inlay, dowels, and so on look great with sharply contrasting woods. But a massive piece of furniture is already visually demanding enough without having a checkerboard-level display of contrasting species. It gets overwhelming.
  23. Hey all! Figured with Christmas rolling through we might want a place to collectively share either projects we made to give away or sweet woodworking loot that was gifted to us. This was the first year in a long time I didn’t get into the shop to make gifts for family - I’ve already done all the fifty items that are typical, and I didn’t want to just make clutter, so it was a storebought year this year. My brother kicked some serious boo-tay and made me a CNC carved aluminum brand of my shop logo! So freaking cool. Took a little finagling to get it to work, but it’s awesome. Crisp precise details, and it was custom made on the CNC at the plant where he works as an engineer. So freaking cool!!!
  24. https://www.core77.com/posts/82065/Our-Favorite-Old-School-Furniture-Designs-Spotted-in-2018?utm_source=public_sidebar Thought I'd share this here and see what you guys think about it! Pretty interesting stuff.
  25. Denette

    Walnut Vanity

    Quick photo update! I have prefinished all the walnut bits, and am assembling it slowly. The ends with the floating panels are assembled and glued, but nothing else. I had trouble deciding how to install the bottom shelf, but settled on the “good enough” solution of biscuits along its edge. It’s got I think 18 #20 biscuits along the front and sides, and the back is getting screwed up from the bottom into the plywood rail, which is just pocket screwed into place. This vanity is kind of a quirky blend of fine woodworking on the outside and Norm Abrams screw’n’glue on the interior. My logic is that it’s just a bathroom vanity. Those plywood rails in the back will be screwed to the studs, so the piece won’t ever be subject to much twisting force. It is what it is.