Denette

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Everything posted by Denette

  1. Woah, now, hold on, hahahaha. I actually don't have anything in my shop that lends itself to rounded shapes. The closest I've done is some power carved buttprint barstools. I actually don't have a lathe (or room for one). I like my angular forms, haha.
  2. I actually considered making it even crazier by flipping it, but decided the proportions were a bit off. I may use the idea in a later piece, though.
  3. My boss is a hard man to please. He keeps me working long hours, and I just haven’t had time!
  4. You’re one of the Ancient Ones ™ Its really remarkably stable. The legs spread out so that the top only really overhangs the footprint by about 1.5” on each side. No twist or wobble.
  5. Hi everyone! I’m an older member who doesn’t post often, but here’s my latest finished piece:
  6. I'm in Arkansas, and I had a lady from New Hampshire contact me about making and shipping her two Adirondack chairs. These would be fully completed and assembled in my shop, and shipped to her address. Anyone have ANY idea on how to do this? I have never made a large piece of furniture for anyone outside of my home state, so I've always just delivered it myself. I want to give the lady a price estimate so I can either snag her business or scare her off with the shipping costs, but I'd just like to be able to give here an honest answer.
  7. I usually just design it from scratch. If I want a general sense of proportions, I'll look online at furniture for sale and its listed dimensions.
  8. For extra strength you could also use long screws countersunk into holes about ½” below the surface, then plug the holes with dowels. If you want to spend a couple bucks on something you’ll use again and again, buy yourself one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Snappy-Plug-Cutter-3-8/dp/B000H5LGOW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3JHJZTITGJ271&keywords=3%2F8+plug+cutter+tapered&qid=1556994943&s=gateway&sprefix=3%2F8+plug+cutter&sr=8-3 it allows you to cut your own plugs to cover over screw holes, which is really nice because it allows you to A, show only face grain instead of en
  9. My son needed somewhere to keep his books. I had almost a full spare sheet of ½" baltic birch plywood. I cranked this thing out from design to finish in about 5 hours today. I had it almost totally finished, and then I decided to give the front face a gentle slope so it would be more bottom-heavy and less likely to tip. The final dimensions are something like 14" deep at the bottom and 10" deep at the top, with a consistent angle across the fronts of the shelves and ends. My son approves. The construction is super simple. The sides got dadoes for the shelves. The back panel i
  10. Think wood flour, not sawdust. You want the fine kind of sawdust you get from fine sanding. Sand something at 220 grit and collect the dust from that, then mix it with some glue. If you use coarse sawdust, it just looks nasty.
  11. I really didn't know what to call it. It's not an "entertainment center" in my mind because those are those awful overbearing things that dominate an entire wall and frame the sides and top of the TV. It's not a sideboard because it's not for food. It's not a TV stand because the TV is floating on the wall above it. Media cabinet? Credenza? I don't know.
  12. Everything here is my own design and construction aside from the lamp and the guitar. The chair was built with my dad circa 2009 when I was learning how to make furniture. The footstool was made on the porch of my apartment in 2012 when my wife and I first got married. The side table was made in 2017 when my son was born.I'm focusing on the nicks, dings, and imperfections in this post. Here's one. I noticed after the finish was far enough underway that sanding it back would've led to inconsistent color or completely restarting the finish. I figure that with a toddler, this is the first of many
  13. It's in the house! I'll get my wife's nice camera and get some proper shots of it tomorrow. The bottom drawer is out still because the finish is still drying. I got it all fitted yesterday, and it seems like it's all working swimmingly.
  14. It’s almost done! https://imgur.com/gallery/e0Fkykj
  15. Still plugging right along on the project. Here's a video I shot of gluing up the top drawer. It's got zero production value, I just hit record and talked for 15 minutes. At the end of the video I do a walk around of the project if you want to see it from more angles.
  16. Okay, time for an update! This image has been reduced by 7.4%. Click to view full size. The doors are hung and the hinges are in place. These hinges are incredible. I 100% recommend them to anyone. Lee Valley knife hinges. Pricey, but still half of what Brusso charges. Brusso's prices are insane, whereas Lee Valley's are just mildly silly. The handles are in place because I wanted a way to open and close everything - darn difficult, as I discovered the first time the door closed with the hinges screwed into place. I ended up having to stick a hook in the gap around the door, turn
  17. I highly recommend these. The layout is tough, and you have to be precise - and you are advised to do it prior to assembling your workpiece - but they're smooth and strong. http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=68961&cat=3,41241,41267
  18. Hey everyone! I know I don't post too often, but I figured I'm about halfway through this build and I wanted to share progress and maybe keep myself accountable to finish the darn thing. So a few years ago, when my son was first born, I made a midcentury modern side table. It's shown here: This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. I am proud of that piece. It was the first time I ever tried to do nothing but best practices in my woodwork. Lots of hand-tooling, lots of hidden and half-blind dovetails, lots of creative crazy joinery. It's holding up quite we
  19. Shoot, I just use biscuits for alignment. It's never caused me a problem, and makes the whole thing less stressful.
  20. Well, I'm late to the party, but a good practice is to ask yourself what would work best for the function of the piece. Would a smaller but more simply-shaped table be better for its purpose? Or would the natural rawness of the slab serve it better? There's rarely a pat "this is right" answer when it comes to design.
  21. Ooh, just realized something else, too! Since I'm wanting to have just simple solid wood doors on knife hinges, I'm going to have to have the grain run vertically like a normal door panel - that way any movement would not upset the hinges by binding them tighter or pulling them looser. If I put the grain so that movement will occur along the width, the worst that could happen is a tight door in the summer or a wide gap in the winter, but if I were to put the grain so that expansion occurred vertically, I could blow the case apart if I were careless -Tricky tricky! I feel like my question wa
  22. Neat idea! If I didn't have all my materials already almost there, I'd totally do it. As it is, this project is from leftovers from a previous large cherry project and I haven't spent a penny on the wood - I'm running low on materials, haha. Also, I feel like I should mention that the photo I posted yesterday is of a dry fit - those gaps are NOT final, haha. Anyone have any strong opinions on solid wood cabinet doors that are basically just edge-glued solid cherry? Because that's the plan. I've been told it could pose a movement issue, but, at the same time, it'll be in my
  23. Still not to the doors or drawers yet, but here’s where we are at!
  24. Thanks for the feedback! So, problem #1 is that my SketchUp model was stupid - I rendered the grain of the drawers the opposite of what it will be. The drawer grain will run horizontally, contrary to the image. Oops. With that in mind, I’m taking some advice from another user and making my doors vertical while the drawer fronts are horizontal. Since it’s not all continuous grain from ya same board, lining it up in parallel would only emphasize that I used different boards; making them perpendicular would hide the mismatched grain better and not detract from the overall design.
  25. I'm making a modern-style sideboard/entertainment center thing. I've got it pretty much figured out, the design is pretty simple, but I'm torn when it comes to grain direction. The front is divided roughly into thirds. The center third has two drawers (over & under) that will have solid front panels with the grain running like you'd expect - horizontally. Those doors are flanked by doors on either side, and these doors will also be solid wood - not a frame & panel. The doors will be almost square - 14"x14.25" roughly. Convention would say to orient the grain vertically on the doo