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Everything posted by Denette

  1. Woah, now, hold on, hahahaha. I actually don't have anything in my shop that lends itself to rounded shapes. The closest I've done is some power carved buttprint barstools. I actually don't have a lathe (or room for one). I like my angular forms, haha.
  2. I actually considered making it even crazier by flipping it, but decided the proportions were a bit off. I may use the idea in a later piece, though.
  3. My boss is a hard man to please. He keeps me working long hours, and I just haven’t had time!
  4. You’re one of the Ancient Ones ™ Its really remarkably stable. The legs spread out so that the top only really overhangs the footprint by about 1.5” on each side. No twist or wobble.
  5. Hi everyone! I’m an older member who doesn’t post often, but here’s my latest finished piece:
  6. I'm in Arkansas, and I had a lady from New Hampshire contact me about making and shipping her two Adirondack chairs. These would be fully completed and assembled in my shop, and shipped to her address. Anyone have ANY idea on how to do this? I have never made a large piece of furniture for anyone outside of my home state, so I've always just delivered it myself. I want to give the lady a price estimate so I can either snag her business or scare her off with the shipping costs, but I'd just like to be able to give here an honest answer.
  7. I usually just design it from scratch. If I want a general sense of proportions, I'll look online at furniture for sale and its listed dimensions.
  8. For extra strength you could also use long screws countersunk into holes about ½” below the surface, then plug the holes with dowels. If you want to spend a couple bucks on something you’ll use again and again, buy yourself one of these: it allows you to cut your own plugs to cover over screw holes, which is really nice because it allows you to A, show only face grain instead of end grain, and B, get an exact match on the grain since the plugs can be cut from an off cut of the exact board they’re going into.
  9. My son needed somewhere to keep his books. I had almost a full spare sheet of ½" baltic birch plywood. I cranked this thing out from design to finish in about 5 hours today. I had it almost totally finished, and then I decided to give the front face a gentle slope so it would be more bottom-heavy and less likely to tip. The final dimensions are something like 14" deep at the bottom and 10" deep at the top, with a consistent angle across the fronts of the shelves and ends. My son approves. The construction is super simple. The sides got dadoes for the shelves. The back panel is ¼" thick baltic birch and is also dadoes into the back. I used glue and a few pin nails to hold it together. Nothing too crazy. I wanted it very simple, very unobtrusive. The kind of thing that just disappears underneath whatever is on it. It's not fine woodworking - it's woodworking that I look at and think, "yeah, it's fine." I did have a little fun with the selection of boards, as the BBP had some deep mineral streaks that I decided to keep clearly visible by selecting carefully to use them on the shelf tops. The first thing he tried to do was climb on it (of course). I need to anchor it to the wall so he can't tip it, but for the moment he seems to get that it's for books and not for climbing. The second thing he did was put a bucket and a toy boat on his new shelf, because when you're almost 2 and have a bucket and boat, that's just what you do. I think he approves! He was smiling a lot. Altogether a morning well spent!
  10. Think wood flour, not sawdust. You want the fine kind of sawdust you get from fine sanding. Sand something at 220 grit and collect the dust from that, then mix it with some glue. If you use coarse sawdust, it just looks nasty.
  11. I really didn't know what to call it. It's not an "entertainment center" in my mind because those are those awful overbearing things that dominate an entire wall and frame the sides and top of the TV. It's not a sideboard because it's not for food. It's not a TV stand because the TV is floating on the wall above it. Media cabinet? Credenza? I don't know.
  12. Everything here is my own design and construction aside from the lamp and the guitar. The chair was built with my dad circa 2009 when I was learning how to make furniture. The footstool was made on the porch of my apartment in 2012 when my wife and I first got married. The side table was made in 2017 when my son was born.I'm focusing on the nicks, dings, and imperfections in this post. Here's one. I noticed after the finish was far enough underway that sanding it back would've led to inconsistent color or completely restarting the finish. I figure that with a toddler, this is the first of many dings, haha.The right door went on very well - consistent 1/16" reveal all the way around.The left door has a bit more of a problem with the reveal - the right edge of it is a bit too wide, probably ⅛ instead of 1/16. The top is also tighter than it should be, which in turn emphasizes the oversize gap on the right.When I was gluing the case up, something weird happened that I still can't figure out, and when I clamped it there was a split here - it's the dark vertical streak about ¼ of the way in from the front. I filled it in with glue & sawdust, and it is hidden with the grain well enough, but it wasn't a perfect project. The miter joint right there ended up being a tad gappy, too. I guess there must have been a chip or chunk of something in the joint that caused it to not want to close evenly, leading to a split when put under heavy clamp pressure. Yeah, I over clamp. Guilty as charged.The only visible sapwood. There's a little more on the bottom of the cabinet. Also, I'm trying to figure out how to manage my mess of wires in this cabinet. It seems like a shame to waste so much space, but I'm also only just figuring out what I want where in this thing. Our previous "TV stand" was actually a repurposed coffee table, so having somewhere to put things is a new experience, hahaha.The Lee Valley offset knife hinges I used for the project were pricey, but overall very good quality. They ended up sitting just barely proud of the surface after trimming the doors to fit as well as I could. Also, there's a nick out of the corner of this door because I got reckless when trimming early on. I hid it, but it's still there! Every ding tells a story, I guess. Most are just stories of my own stupidity, but still. lol.I used Brusso ball catches to hold the doors closed, but didn't anticipate this: The ball catch has a travel of almost ⅛", and my reveal is about half that. This means that over time, the ball catch is going to put a little crescent-shaped ding into the wood where it compresses each time. Not a major concern, but something I overlooked. It was my first time using ball catches, so I guess that is something to remember for next time.Top drawer! Video game goodies. No real problems with this drawer.Bottom drawer! DVDs. So nice to finally have somewhere to stash them. I purposefully designed the drawer to be deep enough to hold DVD cases.The right cabinet currently holds one of those felt storage cubes, also full of DVDs. Funny how those accumulate. I can't remember the last time I bought a DVD, but somehow there are so many of them.There has been some discussion about the potential for the doors warping since they are solid wood. They are also nearly an inch thick, more like a tabletop than a door. I think they should be okay, but if they aren't I can fix them as needed. Time will tell. This photo also shows yet another goof-up, a hole I had to drill to remove the ball catch when I accidentally put it too deep. Those ball catches are tricky.Raking angle shot of the top surface finish. I am pretty happy with it! This image has been reduced by 18.5%. Click to view full size. The back. It's got my TV antenna taped to it (yes, I said TV antenna, we use Netflix, YouTube, and over-the-air local channels), and one hole for cables to go into the far cabinet. Not pretty, not ugly, just "mreh." It's a cabinet back, whatchagonnado.
  13. It's in the house! I'll get my wife's nice camera and get some proper shots of it tomorrow. The bottom drawer is out still because the finish is still drying. I got it all fitted yesterday, and it seems like it's all working swimmingly.
  14. It’s almost done!
  15. Still plugging right along on the project. Here's a video I shot of gluing up the top drawer. It's got zero production value, I just hit record and talked for 15 minutes. At the end of the video I do a walk around of the project if you want to see it from more angles.
  16. Okay, time for an update! This image has been reduced by 7.4%. Click to view full size. The doors are hung and the hinges are in place. These hinges are incredible. I 100% recommend them to anyone. Lee Valley knife hinges. Pricey, but still half of what Brusso charges. Brusso's prices are insane, whereas Lee Valley's are just mildly silly. The handles are in place because I wanted a way to open and close everything - darn difficult, as I discovered the first time the door closed with the hinges screwed into place. I ended up having to stick a hook in the gap around the door, turn it 90 degrees, and pull it back to open it. Sheesh. The drawer fronts are just cut to size, there aren't drawers on there yet. There is zero clearance around those drawer fronts - the clearance will come as needed while making the drawer body. As for the gaps around the doors... Yeah, the left door has a bit more of a gap on its right edge than the doors have everywhere else. Here's a close up of the reveal on each door:Right door: (Still needs a little bit of trimming along the top and bottom for a consistent reveal) This image has been reduced by 7.4%. Click to view full size. Left door: This image has been reduced by 7.4%. Click to view full size. The offending gap: This image has been reduced by 7.4%. Click to view full size. Not much to say about how this gap happened. A classic case of needing to measure twice and cut once, I'm afraid. I'm considering my options to correct it. One idea is that I could try some sort of edge profile on the outside edges of the doors - that might obscure the gap, but then again it might just make it all the more noticeable. Another is to glue a thin vertical strip onto that edge of the door - one perk of a solid panel door, I guess. I'm leaning toward that option, it seems less risky - I still have the offcuts from cutting the door to width, so it wouldn't be hard at all. Just a matter of doing it, I guess.As for the grain on the doors and drawer fronts, I'm pretty happy with the way it is all coming together. The panels' joints aren't that noticeable, and the drawers and doors appear to be a very close match in general color. I ran out of linseed oil a couple of days ago, so I need to pick some more up - that is why the doors & drawers are so much paler than the rest of the cabinet. I treat my cherry with BLO before applying polyurethane. It works really well for me.A few more shots: This image has been reduced by 7.4%. Click to view full size. This image has been reduced by 7.4%. Click to view full size. This image has been reduced by 7.4%. Click to view full size. This image has been reduced by 7.4%. Click to view full size.
  17. I highly recommend these. The layout is tough, and you have to be precise - and you are advised to do it prior to assembling your workpiece - but they're smooth and strong.,41241,41267
  18. Hey everyone! I know I don't post too often, but I figured I'm about halfway through this build and I wanted to share progress and maybe keep myself accountable to finish the darn thing. So a few years ago, when my son was first born, I made a midcentury modern side table. It's shown here: This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. I am proud of that piece. It was the first time I ever tried to do nothing but best practices in my woodwork. Lots of hand-tooling, lots of hidden and half-blind dovetails, lots of creative crazy joinery. It's holding up quite well, too, and I liked it so much that I decided it needed a friend. Two projects ago, a client wanted a cherry TV stand, so I over-ordered cherry and kept enough back to make myself something. For my next few projects, I want to keep building in this style and filling out my living room. My goal is this: This image has been reduced by 25.3%. Click to view full size. The TV stand, bookshelf, and coffee table are all new, while the other stuff is existing. I know a mission-style white oak Morris chair doesn't exactly go with a bunch of cherry midmod stuff, but I'm keeping it for sentimental reasons. Here's the TV stand that's in progress: This image has been reduced by 25.3%. Click to view full size. This image has been reduced by 31.6%. Click to view full size. On the original side table, I was trying best practices with no regard to how long it took, and that tiny table took about two months as a result. It turned out GREAT, but that's a long time, and I've got commissions to build after this. Gotta make money somehow. So the way I'm looking at this project is that I'm trying to see how quickly and efficiently I can make a piece that I'm proud of without sacrificing too much quality. The project is an exercise in "compromising without compromising," so to speak.Compromises:1. No buying new material. So far so good on this one, I had just the right amount in the shop for the case, doors, and drawer fronts. I did have to use sapwood-heavy boards on the interior, but nobody will ever see that in daily use. I also had to use a board that had a half-inch bug hole through it. It's also on the inside - it'll be the surface that the top drawer rides on top of. I filled the bug damage with epoxy, and nobody will ever be the wiser. Everything on the outside is looking good. I did have to do a few panels with three boards when two wider ones would have been preferable, but I'm working with limited stock here, and I'm keeping it pretty symmetrical, so it's not a major loss. One compromise that I'm somewhat okay with is that the back panel is actually ¼" cherry-veneered MDF panel.2. No overly complicated joinery. On the original side table, the miter joints featured blind mitered dovetails. Those took FOR. EVER. And they look great and were a dream to glue up, because everything came together perfectly, but I'm not sure how much of a payoff there will really be. For this one, I just cut the miters on the table saw with a sled and used biscuits for alignment. On the original, the vertical components were held in place by sliding dovetails in the top and bottom of the case. In the TV stand, they are just held in by a simple tenon in a groove. Simplified joinery, but not to the point it will be weaker.3. Fastening hardware is okay. I'm attaching the base to the top with screws up through the base into the bottom of the cabinet. On the side table I did a crazy sliding dovetail thing - a very cool magic trick for woodworkers to ooh and ahh over, but it actually doesn't really help the piece in use, and it took forever. Screws where they will work better faster and never be seen? I'm in.Non-Compromises:1. The joinery will still be solid. It'll hold up to everyday use. And it will look good doing it.2. The wood will still be as-well-selected as possible in spite of trying to avoid buying new material for this project. It's all pretty decent cherry aside from the defects deep inside the case, which will be invisible during ordinary use.3. The hardware is going to be niiiiice. I bought the stainless steel knife hinges from Lee Valley and installed them in the case prior to glue-up. I just ordered ball catches from Brusso (via Amazon) and will use those to lock the doors shut. I've already got my handle hardware - it's as close as I could find to the hardware from the original side table, and I think it'll look great.So here's my progress so far: This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. The legs and stretchers went together without a hitch. Simple enough, just vertically-oriented sliding dovetails into the tops of the legs. This is the fourth or fifth time I've used this technique for attaching legs, and it's become one of my favorite techniques. It's just so solid. This photo was prior to final glue-up, but it looks essentially identical right now. This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. Testing the miters with the biscuits. It went pretty well for the most part. There was a little trouble during the glue-up, but that may be a different post. Definitely easier overall than the blind mitered dovetails, but the glue-up sucked a lot more, haha. This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. And here's the case put together! This was another pre-glue photo, so what you can't see here (and I'll have to get a picture of later) is the slight bevel on the outer edges of the case. Here's a close-up of it in my sketch up model:That little bit of detailing is really making this piece feel pretty great.So yeah, that's about where it's at at the moment. This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. (pre-glue, those gaps are all gone now)So, here's where I'm at from here. I've got the door panels glued up and I've got the drawer-fronts selected and rough-cut to size. I am going to take a walk in the danger zone and make my doors be solid wood panels. I figure that the worst that could happen is they get stuck, and I have to trim them - or they warp into potato chips and I have to scrap them and make new doors. Honestly, that wouldn't be so bad. I mean, I'm a woodworker. I've never done solid-wood doors, and this cherry seems quite stable, so I'm giving it a go. I think it'll look good with the modern style. For the interior of the drawers, I'm waffling back and fort between ash and maple - mostly because I have a bit of ash on hand already, but I'm not sure if it will be enough to make what I need, so it may just come down to whether I have enough ash on hand. If I don't, I'll probably buy maple just because it would look better with the cherry.More updates will follow.Keep getting splinters, fellow termites.
  19. Shoot, I just use biscuits for alignment. It's never caused me a problem, and makes the whole thing less stressful.
  20. Well, I'm late to the party, but a good practice is to ask yourself what would work best for the function of the piece. Would a smaller but more simply-shaped table be better for its purpose? Or would the natural rawness of the slab serve it better? There's rarely a pat "this is right" answer when it comes to design.
  21. Ooh, just realized something else, too! Since I'm wanting to have just simple solid wood doors on knife hinges, I'm going to have to have the grain run vertically like a normal door panel - that way any movement would not upset the hinges by binding them tighter or pulling them looser. If I put the grain so that movement will occur along the width, the worst that could happen is a tight door in the summer or a wide gap in the winter, but if I were to put the grain so that expansion occurred vertically, I could blow the case apart if I were careless -Tricky tricky! I feel like my question was silly now. Always learning.
  22. Neat idea! If I didn't have all my materials already almost there, I'd totally do it. As it is, this project is from leftovers from a previous large cherry project and I haven't spent a penny on the wood - I'm running low on materials, haha. Also, I feel like I should mention that the photo I posted yesterday is of a dry fit - those gaps are NOT final, haha. Anyone have any strong opinions on solid wood cabinet doors that are basically just edge-glued solid cherry? Because that's the plan. I've been told it could pose a movement issue, but, at the same time, it'll be in my own house and I could just take the doors off and trim them down as needed if there is a problem when the sweaty days of summer cause expansion.
  23. Still not to the doors or drawers yet, but here’s where we are at!
  24. Thanks for the feedback! So, problem #1 is that my SketchUp model was stupid - I rendered the grain of the drawers the opposite of what it will be. The drawer grain will run horizontally, contrary to the image. Oops. With that in mind, I’m taking some advice from another user and making my doors vertical while the drawer fronts are horizontal. Since it’s not all continuous grain from ya same board, lining it up in parallel would only emphasize that I used different boards; making them perpendicular would hide the mismatched grain better and not detract from the overall design.
  25. I'm making a modern-style sideboard/entertainment center thing. I've got it pretty much figured out, the design is pretty simple, but I'm torn when it comes to grain direction. The front is divided roughly into thirds. The center third has two drawers (over & under) that will have solid front panels with the grain running like you'd expect - horizontally. Those doors are flanked by doors on either side, and these doors will also be solid wood - not a frame & panel. The doors will be almost square - 14"x14.25" roughly. Convention would say to orient the grain vertically on the doors, but that would also have the weird effect of making it perpendicular to the drawers, which are at the same level. I sketched it up. Traditional orientation is on top, alternative orientation is on bottom. Personally I'm leaning toward lining up all the grain parallel, since it's one of the defining traits of modern furniture that it has simplicity and looks clean, and to me I feel like making it all look and feel like one continuous grain pattern across the front would help in that. Just thought I'd pick the brains of the think tank.