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    Still a beginner with a few decent projects under my belt. Dabble in woodturning (pens, wine stopers, small bowls).

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  1. Great consensus, guys. Thank you. I will plan on open faced with poly. The shed we will be getting has a cathedral ceiling and I have been going back and forth on putting in some horizontal stretches and making a mini "attic space" which would include the vents. Is there an advantage to adding this or just keep the cathedral shape?
  2. We will be ordering a pre fab Reeds Ferry Shed in the next few months which will serve as a workshop (wife wants all explosive-y stuff out of the basement). I will be doing the wiring, insulation trim etc etc to the interior. I am in Massachusetts and the shed will be approx 12x18. Do I need a proper vapor barrier in addition to the vapor retarder included in the paper faced insulation, and will 3 Louvered vents provide enough air movement or should I upgrade to the ridge line and soffit venting? To start I will have a window AC in the summer and a small ceramic heater in the winter. Eventually I want to put in a mini split (unless the AC/space heater perform better than I think they will. Thanks in advance.
  3. I'm using the bit and die recommended by the mandrel manufacturer and turning in the appropriate direction. Too much resistance from a cut over rotates it and tears the threads in the wood. I actually just tried some thin CA on the threads and some activator to give the threads some extra strength before placing it on the mandrel. Worked great but I did keep the tail stock engaged for most of the turning. Held strong for some detail work, burning some rings and sanding.
  4. I'm using a 5/16" bit and the appropriate tap but I am still getting my blank slipping on the mandrel once I take away the tailstock if I have to take anything more than a scraping off of the piece. Anyone try a dab of CA to hold it on? Tough to get the finished piece off the mandrel after? TIA
  5. Thats a great price! I'm working on getting some pieces from local tree services but its slow going. I have a nice Stihl chain saw but I think I'll need to invest in a nice rip chain!
  6. My Wolverine jig is arriving this week so hopefully sharp tools will be a moot point. I was free hand sharpening prior to that with mixed results. I've done mostly pens, bottle stoppers, salt shakers etc on my mini lathe up until I took a break from woodworking the last two years (two preemies, two moves and one new business in less than 30 months... it's been crazy). I'm looking to get back in the saddle and invest in a good midi or maybe large lathe since bowl turning is always what I always eventually wanted to do. Related topic but in terms of acquiring blanks, is it kosher to cut pieces of thick rough, kiln dried stock and turn that? There's no good local source of blanks but we have a great hardwood dealer who regularly has 12/4 and 16/4 stock which couldbe good in terms of dimension, but will the fact that its been thoroughly dried be a detriment to turning? I've used dried lumber for the spindle turning but not for bowls so I don't know if I'll be holding my breath waiting for a pieces to bop me in the forehead.
  7. Why do your first two pens look better than my 99th and 100th!
  8. I am just getting into bowl turning and was wondering what orientation you typically have the grain running. I.e. is it parallel or perpendicular to the base of the bowl? From what I gather in my own reading is that you can really orient it any way with different grain patterns showing for each. Thanks in advance for any insights.