Keggers

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Everything posted by Keggers

  1. I've been trying to come up with an easier method to sand the profile in my raised panel doors that I'm building for our kitchen. I have arthritis in my thumbs and sanding the end grain is impossible for me. SO I looked on the internet and found a product called the Sanding Mop. I watched the video and it seems that it should work. I was wondering if anyone on here has one, or has any input they can give me. Perhaps an alternative method that won't cause me pain. Any help is appreciated. Here is the link to the company selling the sanding mop. http://www.stockroomsupply.ca/shop/sanding-mops/6inmop80-1.html
  2. Hello fellow woodworkers. I thought I'd give you an update on what 3 planes I chose to buy since my December 12th post titled "What Planes To Buy." First, I'd like to thank everyone who posted a reply. I sure appreciate it. A special thank you goes out to Marc for his input and a very special thank you goes out to Paul Marcell for his outstanding efforts to help me make a decision. Pictured are the Veritas MarkII Honing Guide, the Veritas Side Rabbet Plane, the Veritas LA Jack Plane with an A2 blade, and the Veritas A2 Scew Block Plane. Now all I have to do is learn to use them properly.
  3. Hey Ace, Thanks for the reply. Yes, I'm using the Charles Neal product primarily for blotch control. I'll email him for suggestions. Since my earlier post I've read that tung oil is definately not a good choice for kitchen cabinets. I don't think I want a poly finish either. I don't have the means to spray on a finish so I'm looking for some type of wipe on finish that will protect and be durable. I'm hoping I get more suggestions
  4. I'm changing my original post to ask for suggetions as to how to finish my cherry kitchen cabinets. I've learned that tung oil and wax is not the way to go. I might add that it will have to be a wipe on finish. I guess I could buy a spraying system, but I really don't have any place other than outdoors to spray. All suggestions welcome!
  5. Hello. My shop is a 30 x 40 and I'm cramped for space. I wish I'd built it larger. I'm sure most everyone will agree that they could use more space. I get the impression from your post that you are having doubts about the size of your proposed shop since you are downsizing. I'm sure you can make the smaller size work for you, but will you want to expand your woodworking in the future with additional equipment? Perhaps a finishing room? My suggestion is that if you are having doubts about this smaller shop building, wait a week or two before taking the plunge and see how you feel about it then. The bottom line is you can't have enough space. If you have more space, you'll find a use for it. When I was building my shop, I was given similar advice. I was advised to build it bigger than I thought I'd need and I did. And now I wish I'd built it bigger. I know you have limitations on the final dimensions that your shop building can be, but if you can build a bigger one, I'd suggest doing it. Just my opinion.
  6. In the "golden days" before central heat and air - moisture content wasn't as much of an issue. I see a possible problem when you bring your finished projects into your centrally heated and air conditioned home. If you could check the moisture content of some of the wood in your house you'd find that the moisture content was closer to 8% - at least it is in my home. That is the exact same moisture content of my lumber that I have in my shop - which also has central heat and air. The M.C. goes up a little in the summer and down a little in the winter. Just some thoughts.
  7. Even when you screw up - you learn something. You learn how NOT to do something and won't make the same mistake again. I'm pretty much a self taught woodworker. I spent many thousands of dollars building a nice shop and filling it with many thousands of more dollars of equipment. Then I started reading and watching woodworking videos. I did have the local high school shop teacher come out to my shop to teach me how to safely operate my machines. But most of my learning came from trial and error and studying. Nothing worthwhile comes easy. If you mess something up just chalk it up to experience and plow ahead. You'll get it.
  8. Cherry will darken with age. You can speed the process by placing your project in direct sunlight.
  9. I've never even seen one. What a great idea. Sure would make scraping alot easier on my arthritic thumbs.
  10. I own alot of Grizzly equipment and have very good luck with it. Whenever I have a question concerning one of their products that I'm considering buying, I give them a call. They are ALWAYS friendly and knowledgeable. Here's their phone number: Phone Orders & Customer Service: U.S. 1-800-523-4777 Hope this helps.
  11. I'm very interested in all the input you'll get on your post. I haven't used my bit set yet. I'm going to build the doors for our kitchen as well. I haven't watched Marc's video yet, but I sure will. Good luck!
  12. I am useing reclaimed pine for the rails and stiles that are 1.5 inch wide by 1 inch thick for this. This might be a silly question, but is your bit set designed to be used with 3/4" stock? The one I just bought is. Just a thought.
  13. Congratulations! That is quite an accomplishment! I look forward to reading your book when it's available. It won't be too soon as my wife keeps reminding me that I haven't started on her new kitchen cabinets yet.
  14. Hello, I've been searching the net for a source of miniature drawer knobs suitable for small jewelry box drawers. I've had no luck in finding them. Lee Valley has some but they don't have exactly what I'm looking for. Any helpful suggestions are appreciated.
  15. You have excellent advice given in all the feedbacks. I agree with Beechwood. You must have a featherboard applying downward pressure IN FRONT OF THE BLADE to aid you in controlling the feed.
  16. I have three Grizzly dust collectors in my shop similar to the one you are thinking about buying. They do a wonderful job for me. I run them several hours a day and have done so for about three years. No problems with them. I also have a huge Grizzly GO573 floor model and a Grizzly G0572 ceiling collector. The only problem I've had is with the floor unit. The switch quit working and Grizzly sent one out to me pronto. It was a quick fix. I like Grizzly equipment.
  17. Great deal! Did you ask the previous owner what else he has for sale?
  18. Looks great! What finish did you apply to the top of the bench? I bought a Hoffman and Hammer workbench from Highland Woodworking and I'm thinking that I need to put something on the wood.
  19. Here is a link to a woodworker that I found online. I'd strongly suggest asking permission from the owner before using it. http://www.tomkatfinewoodworking.com/estimate-form.htm
  20. Welcome! Glad to have you! This is a great place to learn and to share ideas.
  21. A very nice collection! Don't you just love purpleheart? I really like the clock. Very well done!
  22. Welcome! We're very happy to have you! This is a great place to learn and to share ideas. Thank you for your service! You are greatly appreciated!
  23. I have all Bessey clamps. The only issue I have with them is that they don't slide easily all the time. I have such a large investment in them that I'll stick with them. I do plan on buying a few 50" Jet clamps to see how they work.
  24. You might try using some very fine sawdust of the same type of wood that the crack is in and some thin CNA glue. You'll be able to see the fix later but you won't have a crack there. Is this a permanent fix? I don't know. If your crack is a stress crack then it will likely come back.