Keggers

I have a G0572 hanging air filter w/remote that I turn on as soon as I enter the shop and I leave on two hours after I leave. I figure anything that will remove micro dust particles from the air is a good thing. No matter how good your dust collection system is, you're still going to get fine dust particles floating in the air and settling on everything - waiting to be stirred up as you pass by. Wearing a respirator is the best, but that won't help your wife much as I doubt that you'd be able to get her to wear one all the time.

I bought the Grizzly G9860ZX with spiral cutterheads recently. Before that I had a Grizzly 8" jointer with spiral cutterheads. I don't know if it's true, but I've always read and been told that machines with indexable carbide inserts are more quiet than machines without. Hope this helps.

Have you ever had one of those days where you walk out to your shop - look around and see all sorts of things that you could do - and just want to turn around, walk out the door, lock it, and go back to the house? Well, I'm having one of those days today. Maybe it's because it's Friday the 13th. Maybe it's because I'm in the shop seven days a week. I don't know, but today I'm having one of those days. There is plenty that I could do. Sweep the floor, empty the dust collectors, empty the shop vacs, assemble a project that i'm building for my wife. Lots of things. What did I choose to do? Well.......you're reading this forum, so I guess you figured it out. I'm interested in how other folks deal with this situation or am I the only one?

I've used several different brands of blades. Mostly Forrest and Freud blades. Both are good blades, but the Forrest blades stay sharp longer. I use my tablesaw almost every day, and the WW2 is a great blade. Thin kerf blades are ok for underpowered tablesaws, but they can bend a little when sawing thicker stock. And that's NOT a good thing! I like the full kerf blade.

Thank you for all the replys. They are very much appreciated!

Skip planing was what I was going to try if I couldn't find a better method.

Hello Fellow Woodworkers, I need some advice on SAFELY flattening long boards. I'm talking about boards that are 7 to 8 feet long. Much too long for my jointer. I'm making my own chair rail molding and I have several hundred bf of rough cherry. None of the boards are perfectly flat and I'm sure there is some degree of cupping on each board. I'm thinking that if I just run them through my planer - alternating sides - I won't get sides parallel to each other. The finished thickness needs to be 1/2 inch. Any help will be greatly appreciated. If I can't find a good solution I'll just have to buy pre-made cherry molding. Thanks!

I'm here and very glad to be here. Or am I there? Where am I?