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Everything posted by Calix

  1. Greetings! Recently I had to make some 5 dregree miter cuts on some 2X4 for a couple of workhorses, I made those cuts by hand and honestly it took me a lot of time and patience, so finally I bought the Nobex standard miter saw and it works really good, in fact better than I expected, all it needs is a very sturdy base where you can screw the miter saw onto, and like me, if you want to cut some 2X4 you better get the replacement blade with 12 teeth per inch. The saw comes with a 22 tpi blade wich is good for smaller pieces. Check out the reviews...
  2. Well, after all, the blade had a micro bevel so I regrinded it using my honing jig and some coarse sand paper, it turned out well after a few minutes. About the back side of the blade I decided to hone it not using the ruler trick, I'll just use some 2000 grit sandpaper on my glass plate and see how it works. I just think the blades should come with a flat side and a bevel side and leave the secondary bevel or any microbevel as an after sale customer decision. I thank you all for the comment and excelent advice! Have a great week!
  3. Hello Freddie! I needed to know because this blades are suppose to be dead flat on the back, but you are right I have to hone the back to get rid of the burr. I just need to find the right ruler to try this trick, a really thin ruler. Hey thanks for the advice!
  4. Hello everyone! After workign for a while with my new LV plane blade upgrade, I have to sharpen it for the first time, but I have some questions for more experienced woodworkers like you guys. I don't need to polish the back, right? I know the blade has a 30 degree bevel. I use the LV MKII honing guide for all my sharpening, but the blade-registration jig has two different color codes, red for high angles, and yellow for standard angles, both color codes have a 30 degree preset position. Wich option is right for this kind of blade and why? So far I have only used blades with a 25 dregree bevel
  5. All right, bad idea to use a Jointer handplane for a heavy cut. Anyway, I was checking the information about the LV BU handplane and I believe it can't be used with a shooting board. I think I found a very good reason to keep my number 7 handplane. Thanks for all the advice and information!
  6. Hello Franklin! Never thought of this before but a jointer hand plane with a heavy cambered iron will take some serious heavy shavings. In fact I will use the old and rusted blade for this porpouse. I will write about the results. Maybe this will team up with my scrub plane for faster work... Until I can afford a Felder power jointer-planer.
  7. Hello! Actually, I do a lot of hand planing, so I also have a scrub plane. I have to give it a try, of course the jointer is heavier but I bet it would be a lot faster than the scrub plane with long and wide boards. That would be a good reason to keep the Record. Thanks!
  8. Hello Mr. King. I have a No. 7 Record I bought 4 years ago, I have done some research and I found out the quality of my plane is not as good as the older Record planes. I will try to post some pics later.
  9. Hello everybody! All of a sudden I have a great chance to buy the highly recommended Lee Valley low angle jointer plane. I already have a Record jointer plane and now I don't really feel the need to keep it, so I am thinking about selling it despite the money spent on a blade upgrade and all the time I've invested in the tune up, but I have to admit it, it was educational. But, just in case, I was also planning on keeping the Record plane with a jointer fence just for edge trimming. Do anybody have two similar tools and really find it useful to have both?
  10. Hello everyone! Thanks for all the comments, I appreciate it! After doing some further research and after reading all your comments I will definitely invest my money in some other tools. Have a nice weekend!
  11. Hi Mr. Haydon! You are right, definetly I can trim an end-grain edge with the tools I already have. Maybe in the near future I'll find a very good reason to buy this kind of planes. Thanks for your comment.
  12. Great! I'll make sure the screws have all the characteristics you mentioned. Thanks a lot!
  13. Hi everyone! It's exiciting when you find out about new tools, well at least new for me. I am relatively new in woodworking, and didn't know about edge-trimming planes, until today when I accidentaly found a video on the web, the video was shot somewhere in Europe, I don't even recognize the language, but I did recognize the tool's name, a LV edge plane. I believe this planes can be good solution to square the end-grain edge of a not so thick board, and even long end-grain edges wich is something I can't do with a shooting board. Does anybody have some experience using this kind of planes
  14. Hello everybody! Thanks for all the great advice! I'm sure I'll find the right screws around here. I guess I'll definitely order that jig. Thanks!
  15. Greetings everyone! After buying for the first time a smoother and a jointer planes and going through all the tune up, man it was so nice to start using my first BU LV plane, it is a skew block plane, and after that the BU LV jack plane and now I am saving money for the BU jointer. There is no going back now that I have use them. I guess my Record jointer plane will stay aside with the LV jointer fence attached always just, for edge planning. Oh boy! so many nice tools, not enough money... Have a nice weekend everyone!!
  16. Greetings everyone! Before I buy a Kreg pocket hole jig, I would like to know if I could use any brand of self-tapping screws, I know it must have a square screw drive. Or will I always have to buy propietary Kreg self-tapping screws? Thanks for your help!
  17. Hi Tumbles! You know, I was thinking about one of those Arbotech mini turbo woodcarving blades, that would be really fast!
  18. Thanks for the advice Wilbur! I find this technique very efective,and now that I got myself a Veritas jointer fence for my Record #7 it is even better, that helps me take full shavings very fast.
  19. Thanks for the advice ChrisG. I worked the knot with a chisel and my mallet, got a lot of tear out but that's OK, I won't use the board to make furniture. Anyway I finaly got a flat edge. This was a valuable lesson, I'll pay some extra bucks for good lumber but I will save a lot of time. Greetings from Mexico!
  20. Hi there! I am actually very good at hand planing, but this is the first time I have to do this with an 80 inches long board. Well, I am very close to finish squaring this big chunk of wood, but the last edge is giving me a hard time. I end up with a convex edge every time, and I am doing the same thing I do with every other edge of every other board, except, this time this edge has a big knot right around the middle. I think I will have to use a big chisel to flat the edge right where the knot is, I think! Does anybody has had the same situation before? Does that big knot really could be
  21. Hi Wilbur! As you say, it is not an amergency, so I will wait for my new sharpening jig and get that 80 grit sandpaper. I can imagine putting more pressure on one side of the blade so it will get even with the other and finally get it square right? Or maybe I just have to concentrate on the lapping and the jig will do the rest? Thanks!
  22. Hi JWatson! Thanks for the advice! I didn't know about the Hock blades! I visited their Web Page and those blades look like really fine metallurgical craftsmanship. I'm sure gonna get one of those plane irons. Thanks!
  23. Hi. Unfortunately I don't have a honing guide, so I will keep using the blade as it is, at least until I get the honing guide, but I will definetly try the sandpaper, I hope soon. Grazie John!