Paul Edgar

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About Paul Edgar

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Bowl turning, general sawdust generation

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  1. The problem is the part that connects to the planer fits into one fixed pin and one spring loaded pin. The plastic collar will not tolerate much stress before ending up as in the photo at the top. The port the fitting attaches to is a bastard size.
  2. Beechwood, Remove the port and look at it from the tool side....
  3. I will the next time. There are more pieces, but the corners will be crisp, Thanks...
  4. The exhaust port adaptor is not very robust. I have an angle adaptor so that the hose stays away from the board exiting the planer. The weight of the 4' hose was too much for the plastic, see photo. I rigged a support and will probably get a replacement exhaust port, but before I do, I was interested in hearing from others who have this model to see what they do.
  5. Some more progress..... worst so far has been removing material where the drawers will live...what's the hot lick? Free hand is out, hand shake and can't see well enough to stop in the corners. Tried to use a guide for the jig saw shoe, but there wasn't enough material on some cuts and on others half of the shoe would be unsupported. Finally arrived (by sanding for way too long) at a compromise before the drawer rectangles got too large. Tomorrow we'll start making the drawers.
  6. Here are a few progress photos of the splayed leg utility table. I used a taper jig made by the same outfit that makes the gripper push block. Works very well! I added a 3/4" strip to the edge off the 1/2" plywood as the hardwood corner wanted to roll during dry clamp up. Didn't foresee that the 3/4" filler would be in the way when the next panel was fitted, so had to rabbet a channel to make the sides fit flush. The added benefit is a larger glue area and sturdier construction.
  7. Don't know about you, but "ample beer" usually by means the cessation of any meaningful woodworking for that day. For the finger head count and avoiding coming out in the morning to something unrecognizable........
  8. Is it just me or are there others that can't always wait until the glue has set up completely before handling or moving to the next step in the project? I've gotten better because of all the mishaps and I have to remind myself of past experiences. It also helps to have more than one thing going at one time. What is the rule of thumb with TITEBOND II, other than overnight? It's my understanding that the difference between I, II and III is the time allowed to get the parts into alignment before the adhesive begins to cure. I've also used 2P-10, but only for smaller projects that would take forev
  9. Yes, thanks. I've decided to dumb it down by only splaying and not tapering the legs. I may hang on to that plan for future use. I came up with 16"x16" for the top and 18"x18" for the bottom with a total height of 22" plus whatever I use for the top. A couple of drawers will finish it off, it will help with the clutter at the kitchen table.
  10. I'm thinking that with all the replies I have solved ( or you all have) my dilemma. If I splay the legs, all I need is the proper angle on the bottom and top, so that the cabinet will sit on the floor with out rocking. I'm intending on keeping it simple as in all four sides will be identical save for one side with two drawers. I'll try to remember to document as I progress. Thanks
  11. I had a Ridgid TS2424. There was a plastic funnel that mounted to the base and had a 2 1/2" fitting for the Shopvac. It got some dust and debris, but the design of the saw with the motor mounted out in space, left much open area for dust and wood chips to escape. Without sealing off most open areas, I don't think you will get good results.......
  12. My question is: if I taper the legs or corners of this stand, the panels that adjoin them should be the reverse taper so as to meet without a gap. Here is a picture of a mock-up with three scrap pieces. Having been satisfied with the joinery, I decide to add a degree of difficulty by making the base slightly larger than the top. I'm thinking tapering the corner supports would be the way to go. My question pertains to the angle of the plywood that joins the corner support. An opposite angle of the taper is what I have come up with. Looking for confirmation or another pair of eyes that see
  13. Looking to build an accessories table and I want to splay the legs out a few degrees so that the bottom has a wider stance than the top. I figure a few degrees should do the trick. The overall height of the table will be in the 20"-24" range. Planning on using premium plywood with a hardwood piece at each corner. I'm thinking that whatever the taper on the legs, I would reverse the taper on the adjoining pieces (plywood panels). I'm thinking two faces of the corner pieces need to be tapered and the other two can be perpendicular to the base. Is my planning sound or am I missing something?
  14. You screw up again and you'll be flying a cargo plane full of rubber dog shit outta Hong Kong. "Top Gun 1986"