rinconmike

Members
  • Content Count

    32
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Neutral

About rinconmike

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    hobby

Recent Profile Visitors

1073 profile views
  1. Thanks to all for comments. Install went well. Very Solid. Here is a photo of them lined up before install and one after with the instruments on it. Just need to finish the toe kick with the vinyl base. thanks, Mike
  2. To screw then cabinets together, I planed on using 1.25" flathead wood screws. Would it be better to use a cabinet screw line this? Connection points will be a couple inches below a shelf. I figured one in the back and one a 2 inches in from the front. https://www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fasteners-8-x-1-1-4-in-Star-Drive-Low-Profile-Washer-Head-Drive-Style-Cabinet-Wood-Screw-100-Pack-114069/203556408 thanks, Mike
  3. Well we put the platform in. Had a tough time figuring it out. Part of the issue is the 2x4 are a little warped and with no load, they pop up so I had my wife and son stand on them. There also happens to be a small bump in the floor at the point the two platforms connect (circle in one of the photos). In the end, on the right side, looks like we need to shim 1/4". Still need to work on it. I really do not have these tow platforms working as one continuous platform. The photo with the clamps is where I connected the two, I put a temp board in the front and back to align and then s
  4. thanks. We are going to use the one we built shown i the first post. If things do not go well, we will just pull the cabinets off and then go to plan B. Thanks all for reading and comments.
  5. My concern with the one we did out of 2x4s (initial post photos) is that the boards are not flush and will be as shimming pain. So was looking at doing it out of plywood. A carpenter (cabinet maker) said he can do these in a couple hours. These are the sketches from today. He said the cabinets are supported by just the front and back pieces that span the 81". The pieces going from front to back they usually keep a hair below the top of front and back, but they do sit on the ground. I just wanted to post here to see if that sounds correct that these would be basically supported by a
  6. I posted the sketches (I am rinconmike). Two different sketches we are discussing. Cabinets are against the wall and we are looking at adding the rubber base just along the front toe kick.
  7. We did not build it in the cabinets but want to get it off the ground since this is on VCT and they mop. We are amateurs and not pro's at this. The scouts and I learned a lot along the way (been working on it since February), but by the time we realized we wanted to get it off the ground, too late and did not want to change course figuring we could do a platform. Here is another concept.
  8. I spoke to a carpenter that builds cabinets. He can help us out and to the platform quickly. This is what he recommends. Yellow are my notes. He said the cabinets are supported by just the front and back. The pieces going from front to back they usually keep a hair below the front and back. These are just to hold the frame together and provide nailers to screw the cabinet to the platform if we want to do that, but not needed to screw it. Any thoughts on this? thanks, Mike Custom Platform.pdf
  9. Thanks. I think it is a white fir or a hem fir. On the Home Depot Website some posts note a hem fir. I need to look tomorrow to see i there are any stamps. I think it is softer than the Doug fir, but wondering if ok to use under the weight or if i am better off just using what we built and not bother doing again. There is no wobble when we mocked it up. Since there are lips between the 2x, I am assuming the bottom of the cabinet does not sit flat on all the tops of the 2x4. The way we did these, the sides and back of the cabinets site on the bottom. The back is also 3/4" BB. On eit
  10. Thanks. I do not have a jointer. I did not want to do with the 3/4" since I figured I would have issues with ripping the strips with the table saw or track saw and having those be off. thanks, Mike
  11. Hi. We have been working on a cubby system for the local High School band room to store the instruments as part of an Eagle Scout Project (I had a separate post on urethane). We now want to build a platform to raise the cabinets (act as a toe kick). The cubbies are made out of 3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood. We have six of these with varying cubbies. Four of them have overall dimensions of are 27" wide, 29" deep, and 72" high and the last two are 78" high (photos below). The platform will be a framed that is 27" deep and provide a box for each cabinet (outside of the side 2x4 to line up with
  12. thanks for the replies. We used the semi-gloss urethane. I am not sure if we got all the gloss off. I thought we were following the directions when we did a light sand but concerned we are too light. So if there is an issue, would peeling happen right away or will it take time or no way to tell.
  13. Hi. We have been working on a cubby system for the local High School band room to store the instruments as part of an Eagle Scout Project. Been working on it for 7 months. The cubbies are made out of 3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood and we decided to use Waterlox Urethane to finish. We have six of these with varying cubbies. Four of them have overall dimensions of are 27" wide, 29" deep, and 72" high and the last two are 78" high. Attached is a photo with one that has the most cubbies and also one showing the six together. We have done the three coats of Urethane over the entire cabinet and a four
  14. Thanks. Is there a min depth of the screw. I previously found this article on Kreg (cant find the link now so I attached it). It shows .622" or 15.8mm on 3/4". Using 11/16 I can meet that and have around .0655" cover (just over 1/16" .0625). Kreg selecting-the-correct-screw.pdf
  15. Hi. I am using a Kreg Foreman DB210 for pocket screws. I have Baltic Birch Plywood that is 17.5mm. I used the 3/4" setting for the fence and backed the bit off from the gauge block around 1/32", maybe a little less and the screw is shy of poking out the side of the wood by around 1/32". I checked this by putting the screw in, but not attaching the second piece and instead put the second piece against the screw to check the depth. When I screw it together and tightened it down good, it does not poke out. I am using the 1.25" Kreg screws. Is this ok with 1/32" cover over the