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About Strasberry

  • Birthday 07/31/1950

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Joseph Oregon
  • Woodworking Interests
    cabinets, furniture, decks, etc.

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  1. I guess I can never come to the level of the experts in this field and as I seem to have nothing to offer .....Bye!
  2. You can flatten with a planer if you use a sled, but that's a much less efficient & complicated way to do it, time wise. You can joint edges pretty easily with a table saw & jig. A jointer's most important function, in my opinion is to flatten one face. Of course if you have a jointer, you'd use it to joint the edge. With my little 12" planer I've never had a problem with getting my rough stock flat and true. I have put at least a 1,000 lineal feet of stock through it and have never had an issue. My whole kitchen came to me random width and length. If there was a 12' board warped or twisted I'd cut it into shorter usable pieces and then plane it. Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
  3. Not trying to Hi Jack this thread and I'm sure it's been discussed before, but isn't it much easier to use a planer for flattening a panel and just using the jointer for edges?
  4. For me I think good old fashioned rabbits and dadoes with some good glue and some pin nails to hold until the glue is dry and it should hold for many years to come!
  5. As long as we are waiting for the answer to what kind of joint it is, can anyone identify this specie of wood?
  6. Great looking box! Love the double sides! Last time I made a toy box for my kids I used a lock miter on the corners, Very tight and when glued, virtually no gaps to deal with and no screws or other fasteners to deal with!
  7. While looking around for router bits I found a flush trim bit with bearings on the top and bottom of the bit! If these are any good it should cure some of my problems. It has a full 2 1/2 " cutting surface The bit is a Yonico patern/flush trim bit #14135. Anyone ever use one?
  8. I hadn't thought of this before! I like the idea of using the all ready routed part for the template! Good idea!
  9. Thanks all! This gives me some good ideas to look at!
  10. I have a client that I make small boxes of different shapes, hearts, ovals, hexs, rectangles etc. Some are made with a simple box joint but the odd shapes I currently cut the inside and out with a bandsaw. This works fairly well but it is very hard to make them consistent. I am looking to create a jig that will speed up the process, make it repeatable and decrease the differences between boxes so the lids would be interchangeable with each other. The boxes are 2" thick with tops and bottoms on, about 8" across. The sides of the boxes are about 3/8" thick with the bottoms 1/4" and tops 1/2" . The tops have a 7/16 rabbit around the edge so the top is recessed a 1/4 into the box. To date I haven't come up with a viable way to us a router with a collett and jig or a bit with a bearing either on top or on the bottom of the bit. The biggest issue is not knowing of a bit that will cut 1 1/2". Even if there is a bit that would cut 1 1/2 how would you hold the center piece of wood steady enough to not bounce and turn into a projectile when the cut is finally made to free the waste from the inside. The outside of the box is fairly simple to jig up so its just the inside that has me stumped! I could cut from both sides but lining up to match the top and bottom seems troublesome to me. Anyone have a better idea?
  11. I need to make one for my dog that just died a couple months ago, but haven't been able to come up with a design I like! Good looking box!
  12. The cabinet shop I worked in we made all our own fences for the shapers. A good 3/4" piece of good hard wood (we used oak) about 8 or 10" wide with a piece turned at 90 degrees on the front edge. Cut a hole the size of the cutter you want to use on the base. Cut a couple slots in the base on opposite ends and drill and tap the top of the shaper according to the slots. These are quick and easy to make and you can add a box over the top of where the cutter head is for Dust collection. The best part of these if the face of the fence gets chewed up, just run it over the jointer and its ready to go again!
  13. Planing against the grain with even slightly dull blades will cause this. The blades are actually pulling up the grain before cutting it. By turning around and cutting with the grain will stop most if not all of the problem. If the blades are dull it will just make this even more apparent!
  14. Just screws for me, but you may want to use stainless steel for outside use.