The Region Rogue

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About The Region Rogue

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Dining Tables
    Home Restoration and Rehab

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  1. I do this a lot in rehabbing. The accepted practice here is that the sistered joist extends at least three feet beyond the damaged section, and then secure using adhesive as well as three screws/nails every 16 inches with two 1/2 inch carriage bolts at each end, though that last bit is not as important if the sistered joist extends the whole span and is supported by a wall/foundation on each end. For a joist that's 8 feet long, I'd be using something around 12 screws or nails. Screws hold the joists together better over time, but nails have much better sheer weight strength. Personally,
  2. It looks like you're projects consist of a lot of panels. Were you planning on using the tracksaw to accomplish processing? Given your budget, perhaps the SawStop sliding table attachment would be a good investment considering it would just bolt on to your tablesaw? I have a lot of panel processing needs on the horizon, and I know a sliding table would be preferable to me to using just a tracksaw for everything, but it no doubt can be done with the ts55, too. I'd second the LR32 investment, particularly since you've got a lot of other Festool stuff on your list and you have a lot of ca
  3. I have the 14/12 right now. I will say that for hobby work it's about all you'll ever need. I haven't used the full resaw height, but I have little doubt that it could handle resawing that much. It's very smooth, and the build quality is good. Lots of people love the guides, but I'm not a fan. I'm using it to pretty much exclusively resaw old barn timbers, joists, etc., and for that it falls short, particularly in feed rate. That's not a knock on it, though. It really wasn't designed for that application. Don't expect to properly tension a 3/4" blade, though. I found that the
  4. Right now I'm on the near east side: St. Clair Place just east of Woodruff place. It used to be really rough, and it still is somewhat, but it's been turning around since they had the Superbowl in Indy as there has been major investment to revive the area. Two houses down the street, two houses on the next block, and the house right across the street from the one I'm working on are all being rehabbed. I'll be working in the Fountain Square area as well. Honestly, anywhere there's a good deal. Thanks for the recommendation on the property management groups, and yeah, I'll definitely
  5. I suppose I should have been more specific. In terms of the structure of the sentence, "bell" is the next word of any significance. "The" is serving as an adjective/article. If you were to diagram the sentence, "bell" would indeed be the next word. It doesn't really matter; it was just a tongue-in-cheek comment. In terms of the hard money and where I'm coming from: This first house is going to take me nearly a year to finish from close to close, if not a little longer. That's with trying to do most of the work myself. On the next one, I'll be hiring a contractor to oversee all the w
  6. Yeah, $1000 won't break me, but it's not a drop in the bucket, either. I'm on my first house, so I don't have large capital reserves yet, but I'll be getting some machinery after we sell this first one. Not really where I expected this conversation to go, but it's an interesting discussion. I'll probably be carrying over a huge loss because I'm carrying the house through the tax year, so I'm not really worried about cashing in the depreciation in the next few days. Besides, I'll likely Section 179 write off the equipment for one year rather than dragging it out over several if it's an
  7. I'll just say this: there's a reason this thing has been listed for over a month. I just don't feel comfortable doing business with this particular seller; perhaps that sounds stupid, but in all honesty I was really psyched when I first saw it, and I usually like taking road trips. I just have a bad gut feeling about it I guess. Anyway, I don't think I'm ever going to need the production speed that a power feed lends, and if I do, I'll just get a horizontal resaw at that point and be done with it. From all the responses, it sounds like I'm looking for a saw that has 4+ hp and can tensi
  8. No, it's not really just that; it's just a contributing factor. Actually, most of my tools have been bought used through Craigslist, and I've sold a bunch, too. My first jointer was a Ridgid that had so much rust on it that it barely looked like it was made of steel/iron. After doing so many deals, actually, I've learned to identify pretty quickly the reasonable people from the unreasonable. There's always exceptions of course. The distance is a big factor for me right now, and coupled with the fact that the seller seems unaccommodating and disinterested in letting someone who genuine
  9. Yeah, it seems like a great deal, but after mulling it over, I just got kind of a bad vibe from the seller, so with it being so far away and not being able to really judge what kind of work I'd need to put into it, I just decided to pass. $1100 is an awesome price; maybe someone who lives closer can get a great deal.
  10. Wondering what others would do here. At $1100 it seems like a good deal, but it needs a TON of work to get it back to shop-worthy condition. It's also 4-5 hours away from me. The guy says that it runs, but it's in a place where it can't be plugged in to verify. Would you buy it not being able to see it run? My thoughts are a new motor would be $300-$500 if it didn't work, but there could be so many other problems that don't present themselves when it's not on that it just doesn't seem worth for that price.
  11. So, this looks like it's built specifically for what I need. It's a decent drive, and who knows the condition, but here's the modern version: I'm guessing minimum 5hp on it, but likely 3 phase. 2" blade capacity, though. It was posted a while ago, so who knows if it's sold already. For anyone in the Montana region: Looks like a good deal on a Minimax, way too far away from me, though.
  12. You guys have been a great help and have given me many things to consider. Hopefully, in the next few months the correct option for me will become more clear (and maybe someone with an old Northfield will decide they don't want it at just the right time).
  13. I haven't used a carbide blade admittedly. I've been using either the Laguna 5/8 shearforce or 1/2 Timberwolf 3pc, but even with the 1.75hp of the 1412, I have to feed pretty slowly to keep it from bogging down. I haven't really had much of an issue with stability. I use rollers on the infeed and outfeed side. Granted, it's not easy feeding 8 ft of resaw through, though. Trying to maintain that slower feed rate is harder with the longer boards. I try to avoid feeding a whole 12-14 ft board through, too, and haven't had to, yet.
  14. I don't have three phase. I have a 30 amp and 20 amp 220v circuit fed from a 100 amp subpanel, so 5hp single phase is pretty much my upper limit, as anything over is typically three phase, and converting is too expensive right now. Right now I'm in the startup phase of the business after having transitioned from being a high school teacher, so the budget is tight. Not to mention, most of my capital is in the house. In fact, I'm probably going to power through on this first house with the 1412. Honestly, I'm not really all that worried about fit, finish, and finery. I just need
  15. The height of the resaw is typically 8 inches. Species: mostly oak, but it varies depending on what the barn was built with. Poplar and old growth pine are typical. Maple, too. Really just a variety. The guide blocks aren't a deal-breaker or anything, I just don't like them. If I had my choice regardless of price and space, I'd get a horizontal resaw. That would be awesome, but it's way too big for my space right now.