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Everything posted by jussi

  1. Had the day off yesterday so I Started install of Byrd head on my planer yesterday but got stuck when I couldn’t get the pulley out. Instructions say it should just pop out but it wouldn’t budge. Had to borrow a bearing puller from auto parts to get it out. Will have to wait till my next day off to finish.
  2. jussi

    My New CNC

    Well I shut it off at night (mostly to be courteous to my neighbors) so I run it for 11-12 hours at a time. I'm sure it will wear life of the router sooner than if it were used intermittently like a normal hand held router would be. But at around $100 per router I figure it's not too bad. Plus I'm not doing 3D carvings all the time. So most of the time the projects will run a few minutes to maybe 1-2 hours max. Ideally I would a water cooled spindle but I'm still debating on which one to get.
  3. jussi

    My New CNC

    Thanks for the compliments. When I checked the estimate carving time initially using the standard settings for that bit I was impatient and double the pass over which cut the time in half but that also ended up with the half as good results. So I re carved everything with the nominal settings and it came out much better.
  4. jussi

    My New CNC

    Here is a my first try at 3D carving. The design isn't mine. I wish I was talented enough. I bought it off etsy. Took 28 hours not including the first failed attempt which took 14 hours.
  5. No. I thought about it especially since I have alot of Milwaukee M12 but I don't think I would use it enough and am happy enough with my Grex corded
  6. jussi

    My New CNC

    It's from Onefinity. Journeyman model with their QCW frame. 48 x 32 cutting capacity. I bought an aftermarket screen and dust collection. Both of which I'm very happy with especially the DC. I flattened the spoilboard which makes ALOT of dust if there's no DC (damhik) and it got 95% of the dust. So far all I've done is flatten the spoilboard put in a grid and added some numbers. As you can see I had to re do the numbers because I screwed up with alignment. Plus when I did the dog holes I forgot to put diameter instead of radius for the hole size and the first 2 holes came out twice as big. Oh well it is a SPOIL board. Otherwise dead on accurate as you can see from the woodpecker square. It's what you expect from a cnc but it still surprised me.
  7. A new to me DC. Sounds like a jet taking off in my small shop. Will have to build an enclosure with some sound insulation. Anyone know the rules on how much air space is needed? And what material to use for sound insulation
  8. Tom is a member on woodnet and goes by TablesawTom. He's a former machinist I believe and sells the moxon kit on their classifieds section. Old post. https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7361263&highlight=moxon
  9. @Tpt lifeA couple of things. I'd like to use it to make personal complete projects, templates for other projects, some joinery, and eventually make things to sell to hopefully pay for itself and maybe even have a little side business. @Mark J Will do. I still need to make a simple table to mount it on. I was gonna go all out and make a torsion box but seeing the price of mdf now and how long it would take I think I'll just go with a simple 2x design for now. Plus I don't want to put a lot of time in the current design until my base arrives. I also plan on making a vertical support for it to do joinery in the future.
  10. My CNC arrived last week. Came while it was raining. Luckily the UPS guy was nice enough to wait till I got home and didn't just leave it in front of my door to get soaked. Still waiting for my frame to arrive which was delayed but I can use it without it for now. Footprint is huge. At least for my shop but it will be worth it. I hope.
  11. jussi

    Axiom vs Avid vs ?

    I would stay away from the origin. I've used the demos at my rockler to do a simple box joint jig using their right angle table and it just seemed way too much work and frankly didn't feel much easier than using an simple router and a jig. Unless you need the portability (would be amazing for flooring guys) I personally don't see the appeal. And this is coming from a guy who is heavily invested in green. I just ordered the onefinity journey man. It seemed to be the best built machine in my price range. You can add an optional Jtech 7w laser. If it was in my price range I think I would have gotten the axiom. One feature it has that I really like is the integrated liquid cooling system on their spindles. So no annoying hoses running all over the place. If I can make my money back on the onefinity I will eventually upgrade to one of the Axiom pro models.
  12. I would hate moving all my tools so If it was me I would first research both how profitable selling your tools in your current area and maybe more importantly the used prices tools market in the area you will move to. If Either is not a good option only then I would look into moving. Several good suggestions here already. I think would rent a truck and a couple of helpers because I’m assuming any good reputable moving company would be kind of expensive.
  13. So far so good. Gonna try and do the rest of my hand tools this weekend.
  14. Bought a couple of new stones to try out. For those that don't read Japanese (raises own hand). It's the sigma Power select II ceramic stones. Lee Valley carries them but I ended up getting them domestically from a place called Heartwood tools. Never heard of them before but the website looked cool, saved a little and most importantly I would get them sooner. Bonus they sent a personalized card and stickers. Who doesn't love stickers. I have a set of shapton pros but always thought the higher grits developed swarf super quick and I constantly have to clean the surface off. Specifically when polishing the back. Plus they feel kind of slow and I don't have the "feel" of them sharpening as with the lower grits. I don't have much to compare them too however and it may just be my inexperience and impatience. At least now I have something to compare them to. We'll see after I try these out. From what I've read these supposedly have a better "feel" and are faster.
  15. Veritas shooting board and lie Nielsen honing guide. Bought both second hand. LN used but looks to be in great condition. Shooting board was nib. I got the shooting plane a couple years ago well before they even made the shooting board but I kind of forgot about it and sat unused till I got around to making a shooting board. Turns out I was just waiting for LV to make one for me lol
  16. I hit my surfaces with a coating of boeshield. Let it dry for a hour or so. Wipe off then coat with paste wax.
  17. Glad it all worked out @Chestnut in the end and acme did right by you. It shouldn’t be abnormal for a company to stand by a product they sell but nowadays it isn’t always the case. Another expense you save with the Milwaukee is that you won’t have to buy a set centrotec bits to work with the 1/4” chuck. Depending on how many bits or which set you buy that could be as much as you paid for the Milwaukee drill itself. I’ve been very happy with my installation drill and Pretty sure you will as well. As an aside regarding the impact drivers, while it’s true the peak torque isn’t as much, the ramp up the Hydraulic drivers experience is less. So as long as you don’t go over their peak value the time it takes to drive a given faster should be about the same. I believe there are yt videos that confirm this. And as you mentioned you will probably next exceed the peak torque anyways for these 12v tools.
  18. A while back festool rep told me it’s so the pushing force is in line with the bit which helps not only to apply more force but perhaps more importantly lessens the likelihood of stripping the screw when the bit slips out of the screw. If you can see if they will let you drive some screws in. Let you test out the balance and clutch in action.
  19. I misspoke earlier and meant to say the middle finger depresses the trigger, not index. See pics below. This is different that the traditional T type drill where the index finger is used. I'm wondering if people who have complaints about the toggle switch are holding it in that fashion. For me it's not a problem and I don't have to reposition my hand to adjust the switch. Oh and another critcism I have of the CXS is the switch has 3 positions. Forward, Reverse, and neutral. I have no idea what that neutral position is for. When in that location the trigger is locked and cannot be depressed. So if you don't depress the switch all the way in either direction you accidentally lock the trigger. Not a big deal but annoying. AFAIK the CXS has never had an offset chuck. The Offset chuck uses a friction ring which is not compatible with the cxs. They're meant for their larger drills. I have one for my C15 and it will not fit in a CXS. They're more useful on the larger drills for sure but I think they could also be useful on the CXS even if It's not an everyday tool. You could probably accomplish the same thing with the right angle but it's hard to deliver the force behind the drill with the right angle attachment. For me if I could only choose 1 yes I would go with the Milwaukee. Everything else is close enough that the much lower price coupled with the MUCH larger 12v line Milwaukee has I think would go red over green. Also I forgot to add that the Milwaukee is brushless while the CXS is still brushed. At least mine (I've had it for 5+ years) is and I'm almost sure the current model is also brushed. The only differences I know of is the battery style switched from stick to slide on. But again I highly suggest trying out the Milwaukee in person. I showed it to a friend and even demonstrated how to hold it properly and he said he still hated the toggle switch position. Recon prices are usually 25% off although sometimes they are a bit lower or higher in case you want to factor that into your decision.
  20. Also if you like the power of the impact but hate the noise check out Milwaukee's surge impact. They make them both in 12 and 18 volt. It's a hydraulic driver. Peak power is a little less but soooo much quieter. I use the M12 version all time when I'm not so concerned about control. Especially when you need to drive alot of longer screws.
  21. I've used a few 12v drills and my favorite for the type of application you mentioned would be installation drills. Festool started it but as you mentioned most of the bigger brands carry their own now. I personally have experience with the Milwaukee and Festool. Both are great drills and I would be hard pressed to say I personally like one over the other. That said there are features that might be more important to you such as the toggle switch for forward/reverse. Here are the advantages one has over the other, again for me YMMV Milwaukee advantages 1. It's cheaper. Considerably so if you get it in a bundle with other tools. As you Festool almost never discounts their tools. Only time they do is when you bundle it with another tool and the savings is minuscule comparatively speaking. That said there is (was?) a recon version up today. I paid around 1/3 for my Milwaukee drill compared to a new CXS. 2. 1/4" Chuck. You can use standard 1/4" bits on their 1/4" chuck. As you probably know Festool uses centrotec bits for their version of the 1/4" chucks. And aside for some very rare instances only Festool makes centrotec bits. Which as you also know ain't cheap. 3. Other chucks. 2 points here (1) The milwaukee has a close quarter chuck. Festool does not. Not for the CXS. They say its because the cxs is small enough that it's not necessary but I have found on more than one occasion that is not the case. Or at least using the close quarter on the Milwaukee was much easier. (2) The chucks on the Milwaukee are metal and seem better built. Now this isn't a drill likely to get alot of abuse so it may not matter. Also this makes the Festool drill slightly lighter which may have been their thought. 4. Batteries. Much cheaper / easier to get batteries. Again Milwaukee loves to bundle their tools so it's much easier to get multiple batteries and ones with higher AH. 5. Balance. This is totally subjective. But the Milwaukee just feels better in my hand. Not by alot but noticeable. I've seen reviews on the contrary however so I would try it yourself. Festool advantages 1. Control. I think Festool has the (or one of) best clutches. I can't quite quantify it but I just feel like I have more control when driving in a screw. 2. Weight. Haven't looked up the exact numbers but the CXS feels lighter for sure. Especially when comparing it with the Jacobs and Right angle chuck since, as mentioned, Milwaukee is metal. 3. Forward / reverse switch. Maybe the biggest reason to go with the CXS. You already mentioned it so I won't explain the differences. I personally like the Milwaukee switch as it allows me to keep my index finger on the trigger and just toggle the switch with my thumb. I've seen alot of reviews on the contrary for this one also though. So again I would try before you buy. This alone may make up your decision depending on how much you hate Milwaukee's switch placement.
  22. Picked this up off Craigslist. Just playing around with it and it seems well built. Folding it up seems a little cumbersome. Will have to check out the vids and instructions to see if I’m missing something. Didn’t come with rail or saw which is fine because I intend to use my festool rail and saw. Just trying to figure how I want to do it. There’s an aftermarket bracket but it’s a little pricey or I can buy a festool bracket and make that work. For now I think I’ll just butt the rail up to the dogs and use them as reference.
  23. I was at Lowe’s a couple of days ago and the 3/8” osb cost almost the same as 3/4” maple. I think the maple is really old stock and i have a feeling they won’t be ordering anymore of the maple ply anytime soon because of lack of demand but even at this price osb is still in high demand.
  24. My first thought was to use a taper jig like Marc made. You may need to add extra shims or screw on additional hold downs. And after you're done you have the added benefit of having a really nice taper jig. DO NOT however use the more common taper jigs that has a hinge at the front and has no hold downs whatsoever. To me those look like just accidents just waiting to happen. A link to Marc's vid below in case you haven't seen it already. https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/the-taper-maker/
  25. If the price is right (for me it would be 25% off or more from msrp) I would definitely get the nordfab ducting as well. That has been on my alerts for craigslist for years and except for 1 listing which only had a handful of items, I've never seen one on craigslist. As for the dc, it should be fine. As mentioned the dust / debris is not supposed to pass through the impeller itself. Personally I would want a decent discount from the msrp for this one however. Good luck