jussi

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Posts posted by jussi

  1. So I'm finally getting around to re doing my ducting.  I had smaller DC before and used 4" SD straight pipe with pvc joints.  I got a much more powerful 3HP  1600 cfm DC a couple of months ago and want to upgrade to 6" for the main lines with 4" drops.  While I would love nordfab (or similar) it's just way to expensive for me.  I'm leaning towards spiral ducting unless someone can persuade me otherwise.  If I go with metal ducting what gauge should I get?  Doing a quick search most of the local hvac places carry the 6" diameter in 26 gauge.  Will that be substantial enough?

  2. Started installation of Byrd head on my planer.  Hardest part was getting the pulley and bearings on and off.  Instructions said the pulley should slide right off but that wasn’t the case for me. Had to borrow a puller from auto store.  Also since I don’t have a press getting the new bearings on resulted in me putting the cutter head in a freezer.  Unfortunately I seemed to have lost a bolt so I couldn’t quite finish the install. Will get a replacement bolt later this week. 

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  3. On 5/24/2022 at 6:39 AM, drzaius said:

    Biscuit joinery is highly under appreciated by many these days, but it can't be beat for sheet goods. I've had a Lamello for over 30 years and I love it.

    Of course I bought it just a year or so before the patent expired so I paid a bit more. Same with my Fein oscillating tool. My timing sucks

    It’s not a biscuit joiner although the mechanics of it are very similar. The mortises it makes are for mechanical fasteners. They have several types. Some that can be locked using and Allen wrench which is great for knock down furniture.  They also have connectors that snap together and act as clamps. So you can add glue and avoid the need for clamps.  

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  4. Had the day off yesterday so I Started install of Byrd head on my planer yesterday but got stuck when I couldn’t get the pulley out. Instructions say it should just pop out but it wouldn’t budge. Had to borrow a bearing puller from auto parts to get it out. Will have to wait till my next day off to finish.  :angry:

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  5. Well I shut it off at night (mostly to be courteous to my neighbors) so I run it for 11-12 hours at a time.  I'm sure it will wear life of the router sooner than if it were used intermittently like a normal hand held router would be.  But at around $100 per router I figure it's not too bad.  Plus I'm not doing 3D carvings all the time.  So most of the time the projects will run a few minutes to maybe 1-2 hours max.   Ideally I would a water cooled spindle but I'm still debating on which one to get.  

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  6. Thanks for the compliments.  When I checked the estimate carving time initially using the standard settings for that bit I was impatient and double the pass over which cut the time in half but that also ended up with the half as good results.  So I re carved everything with the nominal settings and it came out much better.

  7. I would stay away from the origin.  I've used the demos at my rockler to do a simple box joint jig using their right angle table and it just seemed way too much work and frankly didn't feel much easier than using an simple router and a jig.  Unless you need the portability (would be amazing for flooring guys) I personally don't see the appeal.  And this is coming from a guy who is heavily invested in green.

    I just ordered the onefinity journey man.   It seemed to be the best built machine in my price range.  You can add an optional Jtech 7w laser.   If it was in my price range I think I would have gotten the axiom.  One feature it has that I really like is the integrated liquid cooling system on their spindles.  So no annoying hoses running all over the place.  If I can make my money back on the onefinity I will eventually upgrade to one of the Axiom pro models. 

  8. I would hate moving all my tools so If it was me I would first research both how profitable selling your tools in your current area and maybe more importantly the used prices tools market in the area you will move to.  If Either is not a good option only then I would look into moving.  Several good suggestions here already. I think would rent a truck and a couple of helpers because I’m assuming any good reputable moving company would be kind of expensive. 

  9. Glad it all worked out @Chestnut in the end and acme did right by you.  It shouldn’t be abnormal for a company to stand by a product they sell but nowadays it isn’t always the case. 
     

    Another expense you save with the Milwaukee is that you won’t have to buy a set centrotec bits to work with the 1/4” chuck. Depending on how many bits or which set you buy that could be as much as you paid for the Milwaukee drill itself.   I’ve been very happy with my installation drill and Pretty sure you will as well. 
     

    As an aside regarding the impact drivers, while it’s true the peak torque isn’t as much, the ramp up the Hydraulic drivers experience is less. So as long as you don’t go over their peak value the time it takes to drive a given faster should be about the same.  I believe there are yt videos that confirm this.  And as you mentioned you will probably next exceed the peak torque anyways for these 12v tools. 

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  10. 2 hours ago, legenddc said:

    Had no idea you were supposed to use your middle finger for the trigger. I'll have to see if Home Depot has one on display next time I'm there.

    A while back festool rep told me it’s so the pushing force is in line with the bit which helps not only to apply more force but perhaps more importantly lessens the likelihood of stripping the screw when the bit slips out of the screw.  

    2 hours ago, Chestnut said:

    Every dewalt drill I've used has the neutral position. It comes in handy quite a lot when I'm transporting a pile of drills and want to lock the trigger from running the gun. Nothing is worse than having a 4" hole saw start to take off in a pile of tools.

    I just know it exists i know nothing about compatibility. If i was going festool I'd go C 18 more than likely as it's a bit bigger than the CXS but uses the 18V batteries.

    I"m going to run to Acme right now and fondle all of them.

    If you can see if they will let you drive some screws in. Let you test out the balance and clutch in action. 

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  11. 32 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

    I really appreciate the post. On the M12 installer Is the forward reverse switch reachable with your hand on the tool or do you need to re reposition or use another hand to change directions? Is the offset chuck useful? It seems like it cold be. Festool still makes one they just dont' include it in their set any more. It makes it seem like it's not a useful accessory.

    So in your opinion between the festool and the M12 the M12 would edge out just because of price? There have been a few drills on recon and I almost bought one. Even at reconditioned prices it gave me pause. I will say that as far as batteries go festool's really aren't that expensive. Ok well they used to be comparable. When i bought airstream batteries last they were $84 for 5.2 Ah. They are now $100. I also got 2 festool batteries free with a tool purchase so sales are possible but few and far between.

    I misspoke earlier and meant to say the middle finger depresses the trigger, not index.  See pics below.  This is different that the traditional T type drill where the index finger is used.  I'm wondering if people who have complaints about the toggle switch are holding it in that fashion.  For me it's not a problem and I don't have to reposition my hand to adjust the switch.  Oh and another critcism I have of the CXS is the switch has 3 positions.  Forward, Reverse, and neutral.   I have no idea what that neutral position is for.  When in that location the trigger is locked and cannot be depressed.  So if you don't depress the switch all the way in either direction you accidentally lock the trigger.  Not a big deal but annoying.

    AFAIK the CXS has never had an offset chuck.  The Offset chuck uses a friction ring which is not compatible with the cxs.  They're meant for their larger drills.  I have one for my C15 and it will not fit in a CXS.  They're more useful on the larger drills for sure but I think they could also be useful on the CXS even if It's not an everyday tool.  You could probably accomplish the same thing with the right angle but it's hard to deliver the force behind the drill with the right angle attachment. 

    For me if I could only choose 1 yes I would go with the Milwaukee.  Everything else is close enough that the much lower price coupled with the MUCH larger 12v line Milwaukee has I think would go red over green.  Also I forgot to add that the Milwaukee is brushless while the CXS is still brushed.  At least mine (I've had it for 5+ years) is and I'm almost sure the current model is also brushed.  The only differences I know of is the battery style switched from stick to slide on. 

    But again I highly suggest trying out the Milwaukee in person.  I showed it to a friend and even demonstrated how to hold it properly and he said he still hated the toggle switch position.

    Recon prices are usually 25% off although sometimes they are a bit lower or higher in case you want to factor that into your decision.

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