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Everything posted by jussi

  1. Check and see if there is a state / community college near by that offers woodworking classes. There are also many prestigious woodworking schools around the country. I know in my state (CA) we have the college of the redwoods founded by James Krenov. Here a few listed on Pop woodworking site for PA. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-schools#pennsylvania I would also check out many of the woodworking content online. I learned all I know from guys like Marc. I'm just a hobbiest and was able to take my time with my progression. Being that you want to make this you
  2. It's not perfect but the best solution I've found is a heat gun and some type of scraping tool.
  3. Another vote for the Ridgid. I had that same model. Great saw. Until I got my current saw the herculift was by far the best mobile base I had ever used.
  4. Might be better if they added a handle that was perpendicular to the current handle and maybe add a plastic cover that goes over the bit.
  5. Be prepared. Ducting is expensive and the costs goes up considerably the larger diameter you go. Even pvc will be expensive. For example a 20ft long 8" pipe will cost over $100. Until you're ready I'd get a portable system and a good respirator.
  6. Use the included limit stop. See pic below if you don't know what I'm talking about. Butt the saw up against it and then make your plunge cut. You didn't say what thickness. Only time I have ever had it kick back (and unfortunately this was before I started using the limit stop) was on some 10/4 stock. I still have a reminder on my track of the incident. Also I have the front of the blade slightly toe in. Not much.
  7. According to TylerC (Admin on fog)
  8. New to the US anyway. I have a set vac pods that came with my vac veneer press. Much more basic compared to Festool system. Works well so I was interested in the Festool system when I first saw it. But I couldn't justify the cost for me. Anyone thinking about getting one? http://festoolusa.com/power-tools/work-tables/clamps/vac-sys-system-57000003 http://festoolusa.com/power-tools//vac-sys-system-set-57000004
  9. If you can find one with a cabinet mounted trunnions (as opposed to ones mounted directly to the top) it would make setting the miter gauge and in turn the fence, parallel to the blade much easier. Riving knife will be hard to find on older saws. A splitter will be fine, just not as convenient as the riving knife. Obviously test out the tilt / raise mechanisms and maybe bring a straight edge to check out the flattness (at least of the main table). Check out which way the blade tilts and see if that will work for you.
  10. Oh yah forgot about that. Gee tech right?
  11. For the jointer I would keep my out for Jet, Delta or Ridgid. I personally had the Ridgid before getting a PM54a and was very happy with it. I've never used the other 2 but haven't really heard too many negatives. For the bandsaw I still have 14" a Rikon clone Craftsman. I don't recall the model number off hand but it looks pretty just like the Rikon except for the paint color. Again I think delta or Jet 14" would be equally fine. I think a 14" bs is fine for resawing if you have the right blade on it. You might not be able to push the stock as fast because the motor isn't as powerfu
  12. Cragslist is definitely a risk vs regards type of venture. It's true that a new saw will be the much safer bet but you can also get some amazing deals on craigslist. Many times there are certain tools you wouldn't be able to afford (or justify) buying. I have a pretty decent shop and 90% of it came from craigslist / estate sales. Then when you're ready you can sell it (often for more than you purchased) and upgrade to a better machine. That's how I started. My tablesaw started as a Ryobi BT3000 and 5 years later and half a dozen saws in between, it turned into a Powermatic 2K. If y
  13. I went the other way and got the router guides first. But I really haven't put them to use yet. I agree using them with smaller rip cuts is more cumbersome. So far I found what works for me is using scrap wood to push the stock through. No sideways pressure needed from me. Which is nice because you never out your hand over the blade. It's not as fast as using a conventional push shoe though. I'll see how it goes. I may find I end up just taking them off for smaller rips in the future. Time will tell.
  14. As I said I would stop the saw and take out the piece after the blade stopped spinning. I wouldn't lift it while the saw was running. The guides are spring loaded so you can lift them up, taking away the tension and pull board out. They're also aren't permanently attached. They can swing up out of the way by loosening 1 knob or taken out completely by loosening 2.
  15. How far did the board travel when you pulled it back? At or past the back of the blade? Personally I wouldn't pull a board back that had gone more than an inch or so. Certainly not if it had gone past the back of the blade. For me there's too much chance of kickback. If it started binding I'd bump the off paddle with my knee and start again. If it was real bad go to the bandsaw and joint it. I had to do that a few times. I can definitely see this might not be for everyone. Probably the same reason alot of guys take of the anti kick back pawls. And some of the work flow does chan
  16. Unless the cut is really small you can still fit the push stick between the hold downs and the blade. And when the cut is that small I use a sacrificial board that's as thick or thinner than my stock and push it forward. The guides pull it toward the fence so I don't need to apply lateral pressure. But they also remove easily if I feel I don't need them. Another equally large benefit (at least for me) is to use them when making dados. They apply constant pressure over the dado giving you a more consistent result. You can of course do it by hand with push pads but long pieces sometime
  17. It's a great add-on. I'm sure you won't be disappointed if you decide on getting one. Incremental tools will give you a 10% discount for your first order if you sign up for their email list.
  18. It depends. You can vary the pressure by adjusting the height of the individual hold downs. In the video below it shows their recommendation of how to set the tension. The rollers are angle slightly towards the fence so it pulls the piece tight to it. The bearings also only spin one way which helps prevent kick back.
  19. I got the same Jointer on craigslist as well. Mine had the quickset knives and the replacement cost was about half of what I paid for the jointer so I splurged and got a helical head and absolutely have no regrets. The infeed table will always be a lower than the outfeed so it doesn't really matter that it can't be adjusted to be flush with the outfeed table. The important thing is that they're in the same plane. So if you take a straight edge and span it from the out feed table to infeed table, the gap between the straight edge and infeed should be consistent through out the infeed.
  20. I should say new to me. This has been out for a year or 2. Jessem's Clear Cut Stock guides for the tablesaw. I have been a fan of the router table versions since I bought one a year ago. When they released the tablesaw version I was intrigued but the price tag put me off and I was pretty happy with the board buddies I had. A month or so ago a pair popped up on craigslist and I couldn't resist. After some haggling I got them for a good deal (not gloat worthy by any means). I was all set to install them when I realized I needed an adapter since I recently upgraded my tablesaw fence to an
  21. I haven't used feeler gauges to measure the track but it should be really flat. I've used it several times to joint boards and they come out as flat as if it came out of my jointer. The back of the track (side opposite splinter guard) should also be parallel with the the ridge that the saw rides on. This allows you to use a square (I use the woodpecker framing version) to reference off and make square cuts. I'm not sure this is a claim Festool out right states in any of their documentation but it's the case in the tracks I've used and is validated by many on fog who do the same thing. If
  22. Depends on how much you want the sawstop brake feature. Personally I think you can be perfectly safe without it if you follow the necessary safety guidelines. But I can certainly understand why someone would want it. If you can live without it, you can get grizzly cabinet saw or save $1000 and get a hybrid saw. If you go with the latter option, that could be more than enough for a bandsaw and still keep the domino. If you go with a Grizzly 14" ultimate for example that is only $634 with freight. I'd also go with an 8" jointer. I think the Domino is fine to get now. No reason you c
  23. Oh I didn't realize you wanted it for machine setup. In that case I suggest this. Guys on fog love it. I already have the woodpecker 26" square so I didn't get one but have seen them in person (store is close to me) and they are very well made and it's really hard to beat the price. I've heard shipping fees might be kind of high though http://www.andersonplywood.com/square-for-festool-mft-square/
  24. I have a woodpecker T-square (actually a couple) and love using those. One disadvantage I see about the lee valley square is it has no lip so it will take longer to make sure the base is registered completely flat against the stock. The T-squares also have holes that let you scribe a line. But it is more expensive. 24" model They also have a 32" and 12"
  25. After a certain length the f-style clamps flexes too much. I'm not sure what the magic number is but I know I had some 36" ones that would bow like crazy when I used them. I got rid of them and don't think I have anything over 18" (rest are parallel). I have some longer squeeze clamps but they don't really get used for glue up. That said I would get the longest ones that you would need but not flex. Maybe someone with more f-style clamps could enlighten us on the magic number. Longer clamps will always work with smaller projects, maybe be a little cumbersome but it will work. Then as