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Everything posted by jussi

  1. I went the other way and got the router guides first. But I really haven't put them to use yet. I agree using them with smaller rip cuts is more cumbersome. So far I found what works for me is using scrap wood to push the stock through. No sideways pressure needed from me. Which is nice because you never out your hand over the blade. It's not as fast as using a conventional push shoe though. I'll see how it goes. I may find I end up just taking them off for smaller rips in the future. Time will tell.
  2. As I said I would stop the saw and take out the piece after the blade stopped spinning. I wouldn't lift it while the saw was running. The guides are spring loaded so you can lift them up, taking away the tension and pull board out. They're also aren't permanently attached. They can swing up out of the way by loosening 1 knob or taken out completely by loosening 2.
  3. How far did the board travel when you pulled it back? At or past the back of the blade? Personally I wouldn't pull a board back that had gone more than an inch or so. Certainly not if it had gone past the back of the blade. For me there's too much chance of kickback. If it started binding I'd bump the off paddle with my knee and start again. If it was real bad go to the bandsaw and joint it. I had to do that a few times. I can definitely see this might not be for everyone. Probably the same reason alot of guys take of the anti kick back pawls. And some of the work flow does chan
  4. Unless the cut is really small you can still fit the push stick between the hold downs and the blade. And when the cut is that small I use a sacrificial board that's as thick or thinner than my stock and push it forward. The guides pull it toward the fence so I don't need to apply lateral pressure. But they also remove easily if I feel I don't need them. Another equally large benefit (at least for me) is to use them when making dados. They apply constant pressure over the dado giving you a more consistent result. You can of course do it by hand with push pads but long pieces sometime
  5. It's a great add-on. I'm sure you won't be disappointed if you decide on getting one. Incremental tools will give you a 10% discount for your first order if you sign up for their email list.
  6. It depends. You can vary the pressure by adjusting the height of the individual hold downs. In the video below it shows their recommendation of how to set the tension. The rollers are angle slightly towards the fence so it pulls the piece tight to it. The bearings also only spin one way which helps prevent kick back.
  7. I got the same Jointer on craigslist as well. Mine had the quickset knives and the replacement cost was about half of what I paid for the jointer so I splurged and got a helical head and absolutely have no regrets. The infeed table will always be a lower than the outfeed so it doesn't really matter that it can't be adjusted to be flush with the outfeed table. The important thing is that they're in the same plane. So if you take a straight edge and span it from the out feed table to infeed table, the gap between the straight edge and infeed should be consistent through out the infeed.
  8. I should say new to me. This has been out for a year or 2. Jessem's Clear Cut Stock guides for the tablesaw. I have been a fan of the router table versions since I bought one a year ago. When they released the tablesaw version I was intrigued but the price tag put me off and I was pretty happy with the board buddies I had. A month or so ago a pair popped up on craigslist and I couldn't resist. After some haggling I got them for a good deal (not gloat worthy by any means). I was all set to install them when I realized I needed an adapter since I recently upgraded my tablesaw fence to an
  9. I haven't used feeler gauges to measure the track but it should be really flat. I've used it several times to joint boards and they come out as flat as if it came out of my jointer. The back of the track (side opposite splinter guard) should also be parallel with the the ridge that the saw rides on. This allows you to use a square (I use the woodpecker framing version) to reference off and make square cuts. I'm not sure this is a claim Festool out right states in any of their documentation but it's the case in the tracks I've used and is validated by many on fog who do the same thing. If
  10. Depends on how much you want the sawstop brake feature. Personally I think you can be perfectly safe without it if you follow the necessary safety guidelines. But I can certainly understand why someone would want it. If you can live without it, you can get grizzly cabinet saw or save $1000 and get a hybrid saw. If you go with the latter option, that could be more than enough for a bandsaw and still keep the domino. If you go with a Grizzly 14" ultimate for example that is only $634 with freight. I'd also go with an 8" jointer. I think the Domino is fine to get now. No reason you c
  11. Oh I didn't realize you wanted it for machine setup. In that case I suggest this. Guys on fog love it. I already have the woodpecker 26" square so I didn't get one but have seen them in person (store is close to me) and they are very well made and it's really hard to beat the price. I've heard shipping fees might be kind of high though http://www.andersonplywood.com/square-for-festool-mft-square/
  12. I have a woodpecker T-square (actually a couple) and love using those. One disadvantage I see about the lee valley square is it has no lip so it will take longer to make sure the base is registered completely flat against the stock. The T-squares also have holes that let you scribe a line. But it is more expensive. 24" model They also have a 32" and 12"
  13. After a certain length the f-style clamps flexes too much. I'm not sure what the magic number is but I know I had some 36" ones that would bow like crazy when I used them. I got rid of them and don't think I have anything over 18" (rest are parallel). I have some longer squeeze clamps but they don't really get used for glue up. That said I would get the longest ones that you would need but not flex. Maybe someone with more f-style clamps could enlighten us on the magic number. Longer clamps will always work with smaller projects, maybe be a little cumbersome but it will work. Then as
  14. A lot of green and white tools.
  15. I would check the used or clearanced items first. One of my first tablesaws was craftsman zipcode saw that I was clearanced from Sears for $200. My current saw is a pm2000 from Craigslist. There are a lot of bargains out there if you have the time to wait for them. If not or are just not in your area and you need to buy new I would go with a ridgid or grizzly model.
  16. I had a similar problem before and found it was the position of the outfeed table. Theoretically it's supposed to be exactly even with the knives when they're top dead center but in practice I found it works better when the knives are a few thou higher.
  17. Long shot but check to see your local Lowes and see if they have the robo reel on clearance. They had both air hose and electrical reel and have ceiling mounted and portable versions of each. This was a few months ago so it's definitely ymmv.
  18. Looking to get a replacement 6mm bit and was considering the CMT brand bits. The reviews on Amazon (at least for the 6mm) are nearly 50/50 5 or 1 star. But there are only 9 reviews so it's not a huge sample size. My initial feeling to just get the Domino and pay the premium but I thought I'd see if anyone here has experience with the CMT brand before I do so.
  19. jussi

    45 degree zctp

    Ah yes of course. Thanks for the explanation.
  20. Just listened to latest woodtalk and they suggested making a 45 degree zctp the same way you make a regular 90 degree zctp. Maybe I'm over thinking this but wouldn't the part of the blade, that doesn't have any teeth, still under the slot push the throat plate up?
  21. If you're in socal Laguna has a refurb (I think) every year and they usually have a lot of 1412. Downside is I don't believe it has a warranty.
  22. Hope they get back to the west coast next year
  23. You may also want to check out the mirka brand. I have both the festool ets 150 and mirka ceros and really like the ergonomics of the mirka. That said I've tried festool ec models at a demo and they have a much better feel than the older models. I also have the rotex 150 and 90 sanders and while the overall results from them are great they are a alot more tiring to use. I'm guessing partially because you're hands are not over the center of gravity. I actually just ordered the 3" ceros and am excited about seeing how that handles. Which ever very sander you choose try and take