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Everything posted by jussi

  1. After a certain length the f-style clamps flexes too much. I'm not sure what the magic number is but I know I had some 36" ones that would bow like crazy when I used them. I got rid of them and don't think I have anything over 18" (rest are parallel). I have some longer squeeze clamps but they don't really get used for glue up. That said I would get the longest ones that you would need but not flex. Maybe someone with more f-style clamps could enlighten us on the magic number. Longer clamps will always work with smaller projects, maybe be a little cumbersome but it will work. Then as you do more projects you can see what lengths of the smaller clamps you would use the most.
  2. A lot of green and white tools.
  3. I would check the used or clearanced items first. One of my first tablesaws was craftsman zipcode saw that I was clearanced from Sears for $200. My current saw is a pm2000 from Craigslist. There are a lot of bargains out there if you have the time to wait for them. If not or are just not in your area and you need to buy new I would go with a ridgid or grizzly model.
  4. I had a similar problem before and found it was the position of the outfeed table. Theoretically it's supposed to be exactly even with the knives when they're top dead center but in practice I found it works better when the knives are a few thou higher.
  5. Long shot but check to see your local Lowes and see if they have the robo reel on clearance. They had both air hose and electrical reel and have ceiling mounted and portable versions of each. This was a few months ago so it's definitely ymmv.
  6. Looking to get a replacement 6mm bit and was considering the CMT brand bits. The reviews on Amazon (at least for the 6mm) are nearly 50/50 5 or 1 star. But there are only 9 reviews so it's not a huge sample size. My initial feeling to just get the Domino and pay the premium but I thought I'd see if anyone here has experience with the CMT brand before I do so.
  7. jussi

    45 degree zctp

    Ah yes of course. Thanks for the explanation.
  8. Just listened to latest woodtalk and they suggested making a 45 degree zctp the same way you make a regular 90 degree zctp. Maybe I'm over thinking this but wouldn't the part of the blade, that doesn't have any teeth, still under the slot push the throat plate up?
  9. If you're in socal Laguna has a refurb (I think) every year and they usually have a lot of 1412. Downside is I don't believe it has a warranty.
  10. Hope they get back to the west coast next year
  11. You may also want to check out the mirka brand. I have both the festool ets 150 and mirka ceros and really like the ergonomics of the mirka. That said I've tried festool ec models at a demo and they have a much better feel than the older models. I also have the rotex 150 and 90 sanders and while the overall results from them are great they are a alot more tiring to use. I'm guessing partially because you're hands are not over the center of gravity. I actually just ordered the 3" ceros and am excited about seeing how that handles. Which ever very sander you choose try and take your time and get the best one, for you, that you can afford. A huge part of woodworking is sanding so you may as well get the best one that works for your situation.
  12. jussi


    I may have misunderstood but I thought he was implying you need a shaper or even 3 shapers to do a full kitchen frame and panel doors. My opinion was that the 7518 or similar router is more than capable of doing one. Perhaps just not all day, every day. Or as fast
  13. jussi


    Respectfully disagree. I'm just a hobbiest but have made 2 sets of kitchen cabinets and my PC 7518 held up just fine. In fact i still use it in my router table. It takes a bit longer probably because you have to make more passes but if you're careful I think it will be fine. Perhaps if I was a pro using it heavily 9 hours a day and trying to hog out everything in one pass it may be a different story.
  14. jussi


    I have the ubiquitous pc 7518 and really like it. You can usually find them on sale or craigslist. Only way I would upgrade is if I found a good deal on the Milwaukee 3-1/4 router with the detached speed control. They currently don't make it anymore so it would to be used.
  15. jussi

    Router table?

    My ideal setup would be using an Incra fence. If you have the room then use it with on of their offset base. If not, then use a cast iron router extension wing for the tablesaw and use a combo TS fence that is both a ts and router table fence. I currently have a tablesaw mounted router table. Or if you have a festool mft, incorporate it into that. Ideally I would pair it with an Incra made woodpecker lift. It's a expensive setup however, regardless of which way you go. If that's too much then I would go with a simple fence from Rockler and add just attach any supplemental fence to it. The other expensive ones (kreg, Jessem, etc) just seemed to similar to the Rockler set up to justify paying the extra amount.
  16. One thing I did was make it so that a the tops of few of my benchtop tools were in the same plane as the top of the cabinets. In my case it was my pocket hole machine and ridgid OSS/belt sander. Also I used an Incra fence for the mitersaw and that leaves a foot or so of space behind the fence. I put some of my hardware storage behind there and my table top Mortiser. You have to reach a bit more to use the Mortiser but it was worth it for me for the added space.
  17. I bought a carvex and another CXS at the recon sale. Hoping to get an RO 90 next