jussi

Members
  • Posts

    291
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Posts posted by jussi

  1. You may also want to check out the mirka brand.  I have both the festool ets 150 and mirka ceros and really like the ergonomics of the mirka. That said I've tried festool ec models at a demo and they have a much better feel than the older models.  I also have the rotex 150 and 90 sanders and while the overall results from them are great they are a alot more tiring to use.  I'm guessing partially because you're hands are not over the center of gravity.  I actually just ordered the 3" ceros and am excited about seeing how that handles. 

     

    Which ever very sander you choose try and take your time and get the best one, for you, that you can afford.  A huge part of woodworking is sanding so you may as well get the best one that works for your situation. 

  2. 2 hours ago, shaneymack said:

    What do you disagree with? If you read back to wdwerkers first post he has the same router as you!

    Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

    I may have misunderstood but I thought he was implying you need a shaper or even 3 shapers to do a full kitchen frame and panel doors.  My opinion was that the 7518 or similar router is more than capable of doing one.  Perhaps just not all day, every day.  Or as fast

  3. 2 hours ago, wdwerker said:

    If you are going to make a small batch of doors for an entertainment center or bathroom vanity a large router will suffice. For an entire kitchen you're pushing it a bit . A shaper is a better choice for making the cuts for frame and panel doors.

    Realistically you need 3 shapers or large routers to make F& P doors. One for the inside edge of the doors, one for the cope joints and 1 for the raised panel cutter. That way once you get them all set up you can make an extra part or door without doing so much setup and adjusting.

    It can be done with just one but it takes longer and the quality can suffer.

    Respectfully disagree.   I'm just a hobbiest but have made 2 sets of kitchen cabinets and my PC 7518 held up just fine.  In fact i still use it in my router table.  It takes a bit longer probably because you have to make more passes but if you're careful I think it will be fine. Perhaps if I was a pro using it heavily 9 hours a day and trying to hog out everything in one pass it may be a different story.

  4. I have the ubiquitous pc 7518 and really like it. You can usually find them on sale or craigslist. Only way I would upgrade is if I found a good deal on the Milwaukee 3-1/4 router with the detached speed control. They currently don't make it anymore so it would to be used. 

  5. On January 3, 2016 at 1:28 PM, bigarm said:

    Let's pretend you are going to get a new router table and router. 

    My ideal setup would be using an Incra fence.  If you have the room then use it with on of their offset base.  If not, then use a cast iron router extension wing for the tablesaw and use a combo TS fence that is both a ts and router table fence.  I currently have a tablesaw mounted router table. Or if you have a festool mft, incorporate it into that.  Ideally I would pair it with an Incra made woodpecker lift.   It's a expensive setup however, regardless of which way you go.  If that's too much then I would go with a simple fence from Rockler and add just attach any supplemental fence to it.  The other expensive ones (kreg, Jessem, etc) just seemed to similar to the Rockler set up to justify paying the extra amount.  

  6. One thing I did was make it so that a the tops of few of my benchtop tools were in the same plane as the top of the cabinets.  In my case it was my pocket hole machine and ridgid OSS/belt sander.  

    Also I used an Incra fence for the mitersaw and that leaves a foot or so of space behind the fence.  I put some of my hardware storage behind there and my table top Mortiser.  You have to reach a bit more to use the Mortiser but it was worth it for me for the added space.