BeingFrank

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About BeingFrank

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Just started with wood working after buying a house in 2014 and setting up a small shop area in the basement.

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  1. I think the real question is...if he got out a crosscut saw and just cut the box open, are you mad that he cheated...or happy that he is a problems solver and uses hand tools to do it? Very nice tradition you have there, your son will be telling stories about this long after you are gone.
  2. I'm very glad I posted here. Lots of things go into the process that I had no idea about. I think for now, I'm sticking with buying lumber from the lumber yard and in the future if my set up allows it, I may take a swing at it. Or if my friends start kiln drying the lumber, it may open the opportunity up quicker. I'm already learning so many different things this early in my wood working that adding another rabbit hole to go down sounds like a bit much.
  3. Just to throw one more thing out, did you orientate the grain of the splines so it ran across the miter rather than in the direction of the miter? If the splines were put in with their grain running the same direction as the line in the miter joint, expansion of the splines might pull apart a weak glue joint.
  4. Yeah I'm really glad to get input on this, sounds like it's not going to be something I'm willing to go through, especially for the oak. My original thought was to get some large beams to make a trestle style dining table using large beams 6"x6" or 8"x8" for the base. I had originally thought pine or reclaimed beams from a barn that were already dried were my only option that would be reasonable, but thought if my friends could mill up some 8"x8" wood that I could then dry and mill down to whatever it took to get it in shape, I could have an oak (or whatever other hardwood they have) base. However I can't even imagine how long it would take to dry an 8" think piece of wood. Thanks again folks.
  5. Thanks for the info guys. I'll try to get some more information on pricing. Sounds like a long time to dry things out, I may not have enough room here to leave wood drying for a year plus, my workshop is in the basement which wouldn't help drying time.
  6. So a former coworker contacted me last week to tell me her and her husband bought a bandsaw mill to use on their farm here in Missouri. They live a few hours south of me, and apparently are looking to sell lumber (currently milling for use on their farm, but open to selling to friends for now. I know almost nothing about rough sawn non dried lumber, other than the difference in quarter sawn, etc. Their property is full of oak, the other species I'm not sure of because I haven't been down there. My question: If I were to buy some lumber fresh off of their mill, both live edge planks and some quarter sawn oak, what surprises/ disappointments will I be with air drying it at my house? I've only bought lumber from lumber yards or box stores. How long would it take for fresh cut oak to get to a workable level in Missouri with just air drying? Thanks in advance for any information or tips. I will try to answer any questions, but as of now this is all the information I have. Frank
  7. I worked with pine for my first few projects. Partly out of not wanting to waste money, partly not knowing better, and partly because I didn't know the first thing about wood working and it was easy to go buy at Home Depot. I have two end tables that I built from pine that we use, and I WISH I could go back and make them from Walnut. Instead they are pine, stained "dark walnut". I learned a lot building them, and a lot on all the projects, but I should have gotten better materials from the get go. However, had I not just been able to grab some pine and build them with my father in laws miter saw on a whim, I might not have even gotten in to wood working. A drill, a pocket hole jig, and a borrowed miter saw is all I had. Sounds like you are already putting some projects together. Step up to better materials and you will probably keep all the projects you make a lot longer. All the above points about your time being worth more than the materials are dead on. You will be much happier holding on to a piece of furniture you built from hardwoods with a nice clear finish that has a few mistakes, than looking at a piece of pine furniture you built 3 times to get perfect.
  8. I've never used one for furniture building, but I will say they are handy when you are doing some smaller tasks while remodeling. I used a Dewalt 18v for cutting back some laminate flooring that was already installed when installing french doors, ripping some tapered 1x for below the door sill, and for cutting a few 2x4's on the same project. It's quieter, seems to throw less saw dust, and is very convenient when doing small random jobs. I like my Makita worm drive if I'm doing a lot of cutting, but I feel the cordless saws do have a place. Not sure I'd buy one with fine wood working in mind. The Dewalt did eat batteries pretty quick.
  9. While I only have the Porter Cable, I'll chime in one more time For me, I don't drill that many holes with forester bits when wood working, and I don't think I'll ever wear out the PC set. It's been my experience that when I am using them, I'm usually not sure exactly how big of hole I want to drill before I start the project. I have noticed that I will take them out to compare and get an idea of what would look the best once I get to the point in the project where I'm laying them out (if it's decorative like the yin/yang wall hanging I just made my daughter). On a set of serving trays I built, I drilled two holes and then connected the curved lines to make the handle cut outs. I had no idea what size I wanted till the end panels were cut. I say this to say, the PC set, while maybe not "high end" is an affordable way to get quite a few bits that are fair quality and drill nice holes. Then you have many options when using them. If you knew exactly what sizes you needed, I'd buy those few sizes in higher quality. I suppose you could get a set of the PC bits, then if you find yourself using a few of the sizes more often, but those in a higher end bit when the PC ones wear out/dull.
  10. The vanities would be small, 2 doors each so only 4 total there. The laundry room I'm not sure, depends on how many cabinets my wife ultimately wants and if they are base and wall, or just one. My router is the 3.5hp (rated) Milwaukee. I was hoping on the lower speed it would do ok with putting out cabinet doors, I know it's not a shaper but I was under the impression that and the Porter Cable 7518 and the Milwaukee 5625 could handle the workload. Am I in for a surprise there you think? If so I guess I might be making lots of little passes.
  11. I'm thinking either Cove or Ogee style for the raised panel bit, then whatever on the rail/stile bit, I don't know that I have a preference for rail or stile if there are differences in their profile. Thats why I was thinking a 3 piece set for that, to ensure they match up well. Here is a Freud I was considering after hearing that the Sommerfeld aren't the end of all router bits. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DYZVR2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=7VWZD2H7WQCP&coliid=I3THT1PTGKLQ1Y&psc=1 As for the dovetail and straight bits I was going to go Whiteside because I read that the exact size of these bits make the Incra jig dovetails and box joints fit perfect, where as some other brands with slight variance are either loose or tight when using the jig. How true that is, I'm not real sure. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CS7DB4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=7VWZD2H7WQCP&coliid=I3485ITW7V0102
  12. Thanks for all the input, I am actually relieve to hear this about Sommerfelds before investing the money. It doesn't look like Whiteside has any sets that come with back cutters in a complete set. Piecing them together seems to be more expensive than the Freud sets. So for the projects I have planned, would the Freud bits fill the bill? If anyone wanted to link a particular set from Amazon or anywhere I'd appreciate it. Thanks again guys
  13. I have a cheaper set of Porter Cable forstner bits that do the job well for me. I'm far from a pro, but I don't see myself needing anything more in the near future. I paid around $50 for a 14 piece set, but it looks like they are on Amazon now for $37.99 with Prime shipping. http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC1014-Forstner-Bit-14-Piece/dp/B004TSZEB4 Might be worth looking at.
  14. I picked up an Incra Twin Linear set up with the Incra offset table a while back at an auction, and finally got to order a Milwaukee 5625 router and got it all set up in the shop. I'd like to try 2 things in the near future: 1) Dovetail and box joints using the Incra fence and templates (looks like a steep learning curve) 2) Raised panel doors for some misc projects (vanities for 2 bathrooms, built in cabinet in laundry room, etc) , leading up to maybe, eventually doing new cabinets for my semi small kitchen further down the road. For the Dovetail and box joints using the Incra fence, I assume the Whiteside 605 set that is made to go with it would be the best bet? For the raised panel the prices are all over the place. This would be my first attempt ever at building these. I see prices on Amazon from $50 to $259 for a set. The Sommerfeld sets seem to be the ultimate, with the matched heights so that you only set router height once (supposedly) while you interchange bits for the different pieces. Freud is the brand of router bits I've used for flush cutting and rabbet bits and I see they have a large following. Sommerfeld 3 piece is $159 which is inline with Freud, the Sommerfeld 6 piece set is $259. If you were starting from where I am now would you grab a $50 3 piece set to learn to do the doors/see if it's something I want to do on a large project. Or should I just go all in and pick up one of the more expensive sets from the get go? Would there be a huge difference for just a hand full of raised door projects? As with many folks, price is a concern, I work on a pretty limited budget and have only built a few pieces of furniture and misc projects. Most of my work is in general home remodeling. Advice/input is appreciated.
  15. I used a combination of table saw and sliding miter saw for the laminate I installed last year. I bought a cheap blade for the miter saw, and used the factory Delta blade that came on my table saw when new. Good use for a blade that I had replaced almost immediately after buying the table saw, and was just sitting around looking for a purpose. It really dulled the blades, which was expected.