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Everything posted by AcworthWW

  1. I am in the process of building a Bubinga and Wenge entry table for some friends. I would like to fill the pores on the top and base. I am looking at using Aqua Coat Grain Filler. My topcoat will be GF High Performance sprayed with an HVLP. I like the way that oil brings out the chatoyance on Bubinga and may give some depth to the Wenge. My question relates to using the grain filler over an oil. Has anyone used a product similar to Aqua Coat over something like a Seal-a-Cell or ARS base coat? Would there be any issues with adhesion assuming the oil coat has 3-4 days of cure time? A
  2. I certainly understand that. Most of the bourbon collection was acquired before I got into woodworking. I do like most of the High West products. They are a bit different and I like that about them. My favorite would probably be A Midwinter Nights Dram. I also enjoy the Contradiction by Smooth Ambler. Both are good blends.
  3. The wife and I started collecting bourbon when we lived in Louisville. Then we started collecting Scotch a few years ago. We have amassed a decent collection of both.
  4. I appreciate tall of the comments and suggestions. We decided to do with a single species. We stopped by the lumber yard to check on the maple and wandered over to see how the walnut looked. We ended up going with the walnut. I was able to get 8/4 FAS walnut for 8.50/bf. Pretty happy with that price. It is all front he same batch so the color matches well. I will likely go Monday and pick up a few more boards to give myself some more options for grain continuity. What I don't use in the top I can use in the base.
  5. I do like the idea of a contrasting dark wood on the top next to the maple. I thought about not using this board and doing a regular ambrosia top with dark breadboards. Wifey was not a fan of that idea. I ma be able to talk her into something light and dark that does not involve breadboards.
  6. I did consider resawing, but I am worried that it would be too thin by the time I got it surfaced. The wife wants a thicker top and that board is only 8/4.
  7. Thanks for your thoughts. I can see how it could be busy and a waste at the same time. The wife wants the table to be between 6 and 7 foot lomg. The ambrosia board is about 10 foot in length. I was going to use that in the middle and get some additioanl ambrosia for the rest of the top. My local yard has 8/4 for 3.50 bf this weekend.
  8. Hi Everyone, I am in the initial planning stages of my next project. The wife wants a new formal dining room table. We have settled on a trestle design similar to the one that Marc did on the free site. She also likes a design that she found on the Ishitani youtube channel. I already built her a figured Sapele table for the breakfast area, so we decided to go with a lighter top for this table. She likes Ambrosia maple and I happen to have a rather unusual piece of 8/4. I will include a photo below. Now we need to decide what to do with the base. We want to go with a darker woo
  9. I have used these to hang several projects. They are low profile and give you some wiggle room during installation.
  10. I have had good luck with Peach State Products in Kennesaw. Good selection of lumber and various grades and types of plywood.
  11. I checked it with a 12" combo square using the ruler against the miter gauge. That smaller square is just what I had handy at the time. I did readjust the nylon inserts to make sure there was no play in the slots. I will try removing the sacrificial fence and see if that helps. Thanks.
  12. I am checking the cuts with a Starrett combo square. I also used that same square to strike the line. No worries. I went back and checked to make sure that I wrote the correct number. It is within .001 and *.0005*. The digital dial fluctuates between those two numbers. That is the limit of the dial's sensitivity.
  13. Thanks for the replies. The first thing that I did was check the squareness of the miter slot to the blade. The gauge fluctuated between .001 and .0005. I do not think that I can get it much better than that. I made sure that all of the screws were tight and no slop in the miter slot. That is why I am at such a loss. I am not sure what else I can check or tighten.
  14. Good evening. I am having an issue with my miter gauge. I have an Incra 1000 HD that I cannot get square with the blade of my saw. I have a Saw Stop and have checked the squareness of the miter slots to the blade. They are within .001 on both slots. I used an engineers square to try and square the miter gauge fence with the blade. The attached photo has some shadows, but the blade and fence appear to be square to my eye. When I make a test cut, the result is no where near square. I am at a loss as to what can be the problem. I appreciate any input or ideas that you guys have. Thanks in advance
  15. Looks like those of us that missed out on the framing square the first time around have another chance.
  16. I have had good luck using the Klingspour Sandflex blocks. They are easy to use and do not require any liquids or solvents. Just like using an eraser.
  17. The figure 8s do look like they would be easier. If I do put them on all 4 sides, should they be installed at an angle to allow for movement? This is the first table top that I have attached and I am not sure what I am doing.
  18. Hello all. I am in the process of building a Shaker style dining table. I plan to use Z clips to attach the top to the aprons. My question has to do with the clips and wood movement. Do I use the clips on all 4 aprons or only on the 2 that will not inhibit wood expansion? I am concerned about the top expanding and bowing the aprons. The top is 42"x42" and made of curly maple and the aeons are QS Sapele.. Any advice is appreciated.
  19. Here are my buddies. Great Dane on the left and Boxer on the right.
  20. I hope that you all have had a great start to the new year. The wife has decided that she wants a new pedestal table for our breakfast area. It will be roughly 42" x 42" square. She wants it built from woods that I already have. She wants a curly maple top and the pedestal made from QS Sapele. The curly maple is 10" wide and will be somewhere around 3/4" after milling. This seems to be a bit thin for a table top. I have enough material that I could laminate the maple to get twice the thickness. I am concerned about wood movement so would this approach cause major issues? Would I be better
  21. Wife came through with someone me of the green kool-aid. CT48, ETS EC 150/3, and RO150. The only problem is the list of projects that comes with new tools.
  22. I live about 30 minutes from Highland Woodworking so I have been able to check out each of them in person. I guess it really comes down to the paddle switch on the Mirka vs. the push button on the Festool for me. they both feel good in my hands. Going to down there again today to check them out. I decided on the ETS EC as an option after looking at what is available to me. I do not have a compressor large enough to run a pneumatic sander. I have tried some of the other offerings from PC, Bosch etc. and did not like them that much. I have been able to check out both the Mirka and the Festool
  23. I am a long time lurker looking for some advice on a new ROS. I want to get a new sander as I currently have a 5" Ryobi. The wife has blessed the idea so I am looking at the Festool ETS EC 150/3 or the Mirka Deros 6" 2.5 mm. I have read several reviews, but they did not offer any perspective after an extended period of use. Those of you that have used either or both, which is the better way to go? I plan to get a CT vac at the same time and add other Festool items as I go. How easy is it to attach the Mirka to a Festool vac? I do mostly furniture and the occasional box. I appreciate the feedba
  24. First post from a long time lurker. For those of you in the Atlanta area that missed out on Jet clamps online, Woodcraft still has plenty of clamps in the store. They have had much lower traffic than they expected. I made this haul this afternoon. 6 - 12", 8 - 24", 8 - 31", and 4 - 40".