Eric Anderson

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  1. I live in Central Texas. I have also found the CRC works great, but my biggest rust problems comes from working in my un-air conditioned shop and dripping sweat on the tables, which turn to rust in about 42 seconds. I wear a hat and a sweat band, but it Texas and hotter than hell here. On the rust spots, hit it with a little CRC spray and some 600 wet/dry paper and all gone. Hopefully next year I can swing a mini-split for the Garage. Am I the only one with sweat issues on machines?
  2. Really beautiful project and well done. I have a question. The mortice's were made with a domino, 500 or 700? 25 mm deep on both sides? I made an outside door from cedar for my garden shed using the largest domino's made for the 500, and 5 years later, still holding well, but keep hearing you can't make a door using a 500 for joinery. Again, great job
  3. I had a true miss fire a few years ago with a dado blade. Turned the saw on, the the blade disappeared. Was so quiet I didn't even realize what happened for a second. Sent it to Sawstop, they noted the trip was 400 ms after startup (0.4 seconds) and was a real miss fire. Sent me a new cartridge for free. Also, because the saw hadn't really started, there as no damage to my dado blade, which would have been a several hundred dollar loss, but with dado blade and cartridge bonded together, was a bear to remove.
  4. I had a real false trip. Was using a dado blade and had a trip on startup. Sawstop took the brake, and found it tripped in the first 400 ms after startup (less than half of a second. Could find no reason for the trip. Since the blade had just been turned on and had not reached speed, there was no damage to the blade, and Sawstop replaced the brake. Were really nice to work with. That was a couple of years ago, and no issues since, so something just weird, we couldn't find any reason for the trip. I have still not tripped the brake other than this one time, so still on original brakes six years in (and I have two unused spares never taken out of the box yet.
  5. I am still using a series of Dewalt 14.4v tools (two drill/drivers 3/8" and 1/2" chucks, right angle, and impact driver). These are old and pre-dated even the 18v nicads. I have rebuilt every battery I have at least twice and a few 4 times at battery plus. They rebuild for about 60% of a new price and I seem to get pretty good service out of the re-builts. Since all of the tools are still working well after all the years, just can't quite give up and go to a new platform, but if the tools die that's a different story. I would probably go with Milwaukee if I was going to start over. I like having cordless drills/drivers/impact driver, but really don't think I need other cordless tools as I don't do a lot of remote work.
  6. Last year I was redoing the siding on the back of my house. Doing a relatively high level energy efficiency job. Replacing all of the fiberglass insulation with ROXUL, using polywall liquid applied flashing to seal the mudsill to the slab (and waterproof the mudsill with isn't treated) then a layer of zip r-sheathing. That's when the trouble started. as we were adding sheets of the sheathing, we noticed the slab was slopping. All told, we found the slab was out of level by Over 1 1/2" over 32 feet. This required that every sheet of Zip had to be individually cut on a angle (thank god for my Festool track saw). Once this was done and the new Pella windows installed it was time to try to make the hardi level. After a lot of futzing, we finally got the first row done. On one end of the house, 1/4" overlap of the sheathing, on the other, almost 2". I have found that absolutely nothing on this house was built using a plumb bob level or square. Every project is an adventure. I'm not sure if a woodworker should be doing rough carpentry, as I cut my sheathing with a track saw or table saw. Maybe I'm too picky, but the results, while likely too slow, are pretty nice (and who doesn't love tongue and groove Sapele soffit outside my exterior doors.
  7. I have a franken table. Bench dog cast iron top, woodpecker lift, Jessem fence and hold downs, and shop made cabinet. It works great, but as somewhat of a pain to assemble since nothing was designed to fit together, particularly the fence. I also tend to not finish my shop-made cabinets and accessories.
  8. I had my saw about 5 years before an accidental firing. Sawstop confirmed it was a miss-fire (and replaced the cartridge for free). The cartridges have a chip that tells them why the trip occurred and how long after initiation. We never really figured out why mine tripped, ambiguous messaging. A number of possible solutions, but nothing concrete, so I'm not really sure what not to do in the future, but so far no more problems, so ?????. In my case, the trigger happened on startup, so at least my dado blade wasn't damaged (trip occurred 400 ms after startup, so the trip was not very dramatic, as the saw blade had barely started and consequently minimal force/impact on the blade). I do cut a lot of different materials on my saw, doing fine woodworking as well as a fair amount of homebuilding, and always check marginal wood with the bypass feature. BTW, Sawstop was great to work with and very helpful after the firing. Really responsive folks. You will love the saw and if I didn't already have one, would buy one is a minute. No regrets on the purchase.
  9. Mine cost about $5600, so if Bose can make them that function well for $1000 that would be fantastic. The real problem, is that most people don't need pure amplification, but rather amplification of specific frequencies. In a quiet room, I can talk to most men all day without missing a word, but in the same room with a woman or child, I might not pickup 10%. So I don't need men's voices amplified, I'm quite fine, I need those higher frequencies amplified, but keep the low frequencies right where they are or the low frequencies are too loud. Unfortunately spent too many years working at power plants and refineries without proper hearing protection. 40 years ago, they didn't stress hearing protection nor give workers hearing protection in high sound areas. I'm glad that today, it is a real priority, but too late for some of us.
  10. Most people would hate my shop, cabinet and work table heights (39 - 40 inches), but I'm 6'6" and don't like to bend over at my age. Oh, and my kitchen cabinets are at 39" also (my bathroom vanities are also higher than normal, but not quite 39". Can you sell a house "for tall people only"? Build things to your height. Its nice to have everything at table saw height for a lot of reasons, but particularly if you are outside the "normal" stature, either higher or lower, build to be comfortable.
  11. First, let me say I'm a big fan of Powermatic, I have the PM 1500 BS, and PM60HH and PM 15HH jointer and planer. But, I have the Sawstop PCS 3 HP. As others have said, go for the 3 HP. There is a world of difference between the 1.75 and 3 HP saws. I have had my SS for about 5 years now, and can say the customer service is great (so is PM's) and the saw is really top notch. I almost went ICS with 5 HP motor, but couldn't really justify the extra $1000 and truthfully, I can rip 8/4 hard maple, oak, Sapele, all day long, and never even think of bogging it down. While this is probably heresy on this forum to admit, I've even ripped a fair amount of Pressure treated lumber for outdoor projects, and even that was no problem (did disable the blade sensor to do the ripping though). I'm sure either way you will get a great saw, but even with a shop full of mustard yellow, I still won't replace my SS.
  12. I have been residing and air sealing my home side by side. I have replaced all of the fiberglass insulation with Roxul (Rockwood). It has made a huge difference in sound transmission from a nearby highway. Before I resided the back of the house, I could sit had hear the traffic. Since then I can't hear anything. It is also completely fireproof, you can put a blowtorch on it for hours, and nothing will happen. They make a special type of Roxul just for sound proofing, so I would recommend it along with some of the other ideas presented by many of the very smart people above.
  13. http://NPR, if you have a Festool 1400, it comes or should have come with 1/2" 1/4" and 8 mm collets, so you should have the power and collets to run larger bits
  14. I have the Porter Cable version, from long ago. Not used a lot, but was well designed and very comfortable to use. I think the PC would be more ergonomic than this one.
  15. Just what I need. Thanks again Steve. I always appreciate your experience and thoughtful posts on this site.