Eric Anderson

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About Eric Anderson

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  1. Last year I was redoing the siding on the back of my house. Doing a relatively high level energy efficiency job. Replacing all of the fiberglass insulation with ROXUL, using polywall liquid applied flashing to seal the mudsill to the slab (and waterproof the mudsill with isn't treated) then a layer of zip r-sheathing. That's when the trouble started. as we were adding sheets of the sheathing, we noticed the slab was slopping. All told, we found the slab was out of level by Over 1 1/2" over 32 feet. This required that every sheet of Zip had to be individually cut on a angle (thank god for my Festool track saw). Once this was done and the new Pella windows installed it was time to try to make the hardi level. After a lot of futzing, we finally got the first row done. On one end of the house, 1/4" overlap of the sheathing, on the other, almost 2". I have found that absolutely nothing on this house was built using a plumb bob level or square. Every project is an adventure. I'm not sure if a woodworker should be doing rough carpentry, as I cut my sheathing with a track saw or table saw. Maybe I'm too picky, but the results, while likely too slow, are pretty nice (and who doesn't love tongue and groove Sapele soffit outside my exterior doors.
  2. I have a franken table. Bench dog cast iron top, woodpecker lift, Jessem fence and hold downs, and shop made cabinet. It works great, but as somewhat of a pain to assemble since nothing was designed to fit together, particularly the fence. I also tend to not finish my shop-made cabinets and accessories.
  3. I had my saw about 5 years before an accidental firing. Sawstop confirmed it was a miss-fire (and replaced the cartridge for free). The cartridges have a chip that tells them why the trip occurred and how long after initiation. We never really figured out why mine tripped, ambiguous messaging. A number of possible solutions, but nothing concrete, so I'm not really sure what not to do in the future, but so far no more problems, so ?????. In my case, the trigger happened on startup, so at least my dado blade wasn't damaged (trip occurred 400 ms after startup, so the trip was not very dramatic, as the saw blade had barely started and consequently minimal force/impact on the blade). I do cut a lot of different materials on my saw, doing fine woodworking as well as a fair amount of homebuilding, and always check marginal wood with the bypass feature. BTW, Sawstop was great to work with and very helpful after the firing. Really responsive folks. You will love the saw and if I didn't already have one, would buy one is a minute. No regrets on the purchase.
  4. Mine cost about $5600, so if Bose can make them that function well for $1000 that would be fantastic. The real problem, is that most people don't need pure amplification, but rather amplification of specific frequencies. In a quiet room, I can talk to most men all day without missing a word, but in the same room with a woman or child, I might not pickup 10%. So I don't need men's voices amplified, I'm quite fine, I need those higher frequencies amplified, but keep the low frequencies right where they are or the low frequencies are too loud. Unfortunately spent too many years working at power plants and refineries without proper hearing protection. 40 years ago, they didn't stress hearing protection nor give workers hearing protection in high sound areas. I'm glad that today, it is a real priority, but too late for some of us.
  5. Most people would hate my shop, cabinet and work table heights (39 - 40 inches), but I'm 6'6" and don't like to bend over at my age. Oh, and my kitchen cabinets are at 39" also (my bathroom vanities are also higher than normal, but not quite 39". Can you sell a house "for tall people only"? Build things to your height. Its nice to have everything at table saw height for a lot of reasons, but particularly if you are outside the "normal" stature, either higher or lower, build to be comfortable.
  6. First, let me say I'm a big fan of Powermatic, I have the PM 1500 BS, and PM60HH and PM 15HH jointer and planer. But, I have the Sawstop PCS 3 HP. As others have said, go for the 3 HP. There is a world of difference between the 1.75 and 3 HP saws. I have had my SS for about 5 years now, and can say the customer service is great (so is PM's) and the saw is really top notch. I almost went ICS with 5 HP motor, but couldn't really justify the extra $1000 and truthfully, I can rip 8/4 hard maple, oak, Sapele, all day long, and never even think of bogging it down. While this is probably heresy on this forum to admit, I've even ripped a fair amount of Pressure treated lumber for outdoor projects, and even that was no problem (did disable the blade sensor to do the ripping though). I'm sure either way you will get a great saw, but even with a shop full of mustard yellow, I still won't replace my SS.
  7. I have been residing and air sealing my home side by side. I have replaced all of the fiberglass insulation with Roxul (Rockwood). It has made a huge difference in sound transmission from a nearby highway. Before I resided the back of the house, I could sit had hear the traffic. Since then I can't hear anything. It is also completely fireproof, you can put a blowtorch on it for hours, and nothing will happen. They make a special type of Roxul just for sound proofing, so I would recommend it along with some of the other ideas presented by many of the very smart people above.
  8. http://NPR, if you have a Festool 1400, it comes or should have come with 1/2" 1/4" and 8 mm collets, so you should have the power and collets to run larger bits
  9. I have the Porter Cable version, from long ago. Not used a lot, but was well designed and very comfortable to use. I think the PC would be more ergonomic than this one.
  10. Just what I need. Thanks again Steve. I always appreciate your experience and thoughtful posts on this site.
  11. Steve, so like a BLO? Hadn't thought of that and would be very easy to wipe on. Thank you
  12. I'm getting ready to do a residing and deep energy retrofit on the back side of my house. While I'm tearing everything off, I thought I would dress up the soffit in the alcove outside my sliding glass door. The area is about 8' x 3'. I was originally going to use WRC, but when I got to my wood supplier, the WRC was $1.75/bft more than Sapele, which I love working with anyway and should stand up well. I've milled the lumber with tongue and grooves and will nail off with an 1/8" gap between boards (allowing for expansion of the tongues within the grooves). My question is what finish to use. It is outside, but very well protected. The likelihood of the boards ever getting wet are pretty small (unless the rain is blowing up), and there is no sun due to overhang and heavy shade. So there will be temperature and humidity issues, but Sapele is well suited for that anyway. I was thinking of spraying dewaxed shellac, to bring out the color and grain of the Sapele. Would be very easy to apply and to re-apply as necessary. Don't really like a poly outside as will be very difficult to refurbish and a marine varnish may be overkill. Could just leave natural, but want to show off the color and grain. Other ideas?thank you all for your ideas.
  13. When I built my kitchen table, I made it higher than normal to accommodate my 2 meter height. I sat in my chair, measured up to my thigh and added an inch. I was sick and tired of not being able to get my legs under a table without scrapping them on the apron. So on my table, I can do that. If you are smaller than about 5'5", we have a phone book for you to sit on.
  14. Review the cabinet depth with your client. You typically overhang the counter top (assuming granite, or stone) by 1" and this makes the cabinet 25" deep. If the woman is on the shorter side, this may be too deep to easily see the mirror. Typical bathroom vanities are 22.5". If the clients are on the taller side, then 24" deep is nice because it makes more counter top space. Also check to see the door width going into the bathroom, some older homes have 24" wide door ways which will make getting a 24" wide vanity through it not fun. Don't ask me why I know this.
  15. I've had the EZ smart system for 10+ years and it is OK. You use your own circ saw and have to install the base. The track is well made and it is a good entry level system. Since this came out, many others, including Festool, have come out with far superior products, with riving knives and more accuracy. So I would look at it as a low end beginner system. I intend to move up to the TS55 very soon.