Slagathor

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About Slagathor

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hobby - basic furniture & cabinets/boxes.

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  1. I am experiencing the request for login info. I don't generally trust apps that use that for their landing page, so I will admit not to trying to provide my credentials; just not going to use the app.
  2. Yes, for better an worse.. At home I have a Bosch jobsite saw, along with the various smaller tools, etc. (including the jigsaw.) For milling or larger operations that I can not handle safely/comfortably in house, I have access to an arts school that has a full woodshop (Sawstop tablesaws, bandsaws, jointer, planer, etc.) The machines in the school are very well maintained (blades rotated for sharpening, etc.) - as long as you check the basics - is the fence square, blade square, etc. The genesis of the question I initially asked was based on searching this site for threads on ripping
  3. DrZ - I have a jigsaw... It is just not always with me where I am working. Hence, the 'if available' comment...
  4. I have been using Target Coatings EM2000 quite a bit, although have sprayed it. Very clear finish to my eye. Have no experience brushing this, unfortunately... EM2000
  5. Thanks for the replies... I kind of figured the answers would be all over the map (including trashing the board.) For the record, the saws I use all have riving knives that are correctly adjusted. The cuts were stopped at the point that the resistance started ramping up - the blade/motor was never bogged down and the impingement seemed to be across the back side of the riving knife from the left side of the kerf. Since I generally don't have access to a band saw, I was a bit stumped on the 'least worst' set of options that presented. I think as a best practice moving forward I wil
  6. I searched for several answers on this, but did not get a definitive answer on the best practice for dealing with tension/kerf closure on a TS rip. The threads that I found had feedback that ranged from: Use a bandsaw to rough cut, then use the TS. Use a bandsaw, then use the jointer to clean up the edge. Use a circular saw. Use the TS, kitty cat... Is there a consensus on the best (or least worst) way to rip cut wood with tension in it on the tablesaw? I saw several references to sticking a wedge into the kerf to keep it from closing up, but wondered if stopping
  7. Not a flawed approach at all - just different versions of belt, suspenders, etc... Frankly, anything that would fry the cabling would probably be smoking quite a few other things in the shop too... RG6 Protector Something like that will work if you are just passing regular cable TV/internet over it (pass up to 1 GHz). If you run MoCa over it you would need to pass up to 1.5 GHz - but no reason to with the fiber in place. You would just tie the protector into the earth connection for the electrical in the shop - should be easy. Again, you would be at super low risk here with ev
  8. Matt K - Very nice shop, very jealous! On the topic of one of the things I deal with in life - lightning and wiring... Not to freak you out, but generally a 'no no' to have communications wire and fiber in the same conduit in my business. An unfortunate (and fun) fact is that the telco & cable connections into your house have very good grounding, and in many, many cases are beat the building ground system in terms of low resistance. Equally unfortunate is that they cannot handle a lot of current. Just make sure that anything connected to the RG6 & Cat5
  9. Just thought I would update this in case anyone else needs to look into this. I have used the space a couple of times since getting tested for access, and thought I would breakdown the overall experience. My overall impression of the space and people is positive, and think this is a good situation for me at the current time. Positives: Lots of space, great lighting, and good dust collection.Tons of clamps & jig access. This is probably the biggest increase in overall safety, but having a ton of different options to hold work is a plus and allows me to work efficiently. Also gives me so
  10. Brendon/Minor - Well, unless your Google-fu & Craigslist skills are better than mine we are trying to F$%@ a unicorn here. There just don't appear to be clubs or other reasonable shared space options. There is one other shared space option in Seattle that I found that charges $150 for 20 hours of use per month, with no roll over (or $100 per day.) But I'm open to direction on this - I just have not found a club or other alternative. But post up when you will be in Seattle next, & I'd be more than happy to buy you a beer and show you my hilariously small space that I'm using today.
  11. WTN - Thanks for the reply. I really was not thinking along the lines of keeping fences square, etc. I will ask how they manage this. Chet - Yes, I knew I would need to be organized to make this work. Was thinking along the lines of having a cut & operations list mapped out for each visit, along with tools needed. Was thinking that I would bring my own hand tools, blades, etc. to make sure I get the most out of each visit. Worst case, I selected this location since it is only about 10 minutes away from my house if I pull a complete boner and forget something important. NC - Pratt is a
  12. New poster, longer term lurker... I have been working out of a very constrained space in my garage for a while, and decided that the most likely route would be to look for shared workspace in Seattle. I'm trying to set up an interview to check out the space at Pratt Fine Arts. The decision around actually doing this is due to not having available space in my electrical panel for additional circuits, not wanting to open myself up for additional inspections just to run 220 & additional circuits, and the basement slab in the house is hilariously uneven making tool placement challenging. So