Mark J

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Mark J last won the day on September 11

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About Mark J

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  • Gender
  • Location
    : Chicago area
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture. Turning.
    Any other project that looks functional or fun.

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  1. Looks great. Is the wife warming up to it?
  2. @gee-dub, when you moved your equipment out of your previous workshop did you do it yourself or hire professionals? And where has your stuff been stored while your new man-castle has been being built?
  3. Mark J


    Well you might not get to 50 if you don't come up with some good story fast to explain why you have your arm around that college girl.
  4. Not really sure how I would make that assessment. All I can say is that a goodly bit of air comes out the blow side and a seemingly similar amount goes in the suck side. So is it safe to say that particulates will not "work their way through" a loaded filter, but rather the filter will just stop passing air? I bought a set of replacements when I ordered the AFS. Price tags say about $75 for the two of them. Seems like a lot, but I probably spend more than that on HVAC filters. And I've been running these AFS filters for going on 4 years. The pre-filter has been cleaned 2 or 3 times before today, but the fine filter doesn't lend itself to being blown off.
  5. gee-dub, you could start a sideline business designing other people's shops.
  6. Doing a belated spring cleaning and have gotten to the Jet air filtration system. I find it difficult to judge the condition of the air filters just by eye. In fact for the home HVAC I change the filter according to the calendar, but that gets reasonably consistent utilization over time. With the workshop air filters it seems to be considered a sin to change these out unless the airflow is actually visibly diminished. I'm looking at my AFS filters and the pre-filter looks pretty filled, while the fine filter looks meh. But the airflow seems fine. So when do you say a filter is in need of cleaning or replacement? And do you blow it out or replace it? How many times can you blow out a filter, anyway?
  7. I don't know what the P-Flux filter is made of, but it is a pleated cannister that is HEPA rated. With as much sanding as I do I was expecting more dust in the pleats than was actually there. I first used a quarter sheet sander as a vibrater to knock off the excess while it was still mounted (Laguna's recommendation). Then I took it outside and used the leaf blower. I didn't go for spotless, just de-bulked.
  8. I finally got around to the annual DC clean out that I've been putting off since last April. There was surprisingly little dust in the canister for having gone so long. Probably didn't need to do it. I dunno maybe I'll be lazier next year .
  9. I like the idea. Sounds like it might work better with spray insulation rather than fiberglass bats. Have you ever done it?
  10. With the 3HP Laguna DC switched on you might as well be parking planes at the airport. Far louder than any machine I have and requires hearing protection. Ross, that's a great idea, but how do you hang drywall/sheathing? Wouldn't you end up with studs on 32" centers? And now back to the original question. Put me down as "surface mount", for both DC and electrical conduit. A well functioning workshop is subject to change.
  11. While I agree with all the advice given, I think the first tool is a library card . I haven't done any bike repairs for a decade, but back in the day a good book on bike repair was key, and I think a more reliable source.
  12. Just got back from our quick overnight trip to St. Paul. We had a good time at the gallery. It was great to see my piece on display with the others in the exhibition--still hard to believe. And yes we were wearing masks, just took them off for the photo.
  13. I'd choose the bare router based on where the speed control is placed. will it be easy to adjust once the router is under the table?
  14. @Coop, I agree. Nothing has suddenly changed in the world of joinery. Except perhaps for our understanding of why things are the way we have observed them to be. With your sitting bench the grain in the legs runs up and down and given the wood's strength in that orientation the crossections have been sized accordingly. So if you add length to your vertically grained leg with an end to end butt joint you will have a strong joint, but one that is probably not strong enough. It's not that the glue is stronger than the wood, the glue is stronger than the lignin. The wood's fibers are stronger than the glue. Which is why most strong joints have wood fibers crossing the joint.