Mark J

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Everything posted by Mark J

  1. No real world experience, but I think you are correct that plan B will tend to push itself apart. This could be mitigated with some expansion space between each quadrant. But then when the beer spills....
  2. The 1000HD looks to be capable of more precision than the 3000SE (or the 1000SE), but they have the 3000SE priced much higher? What's the advantage (if any) to the 3000SE?
  3. Speaking of @Spanky, where is he?
  4. Looks like Rockler has the 1000hd for $170. https://www.rockler.com/incra-miter-1000hd-miter-gauge Or did you mean the 3000/3000se, https://www.grizzly.com/products/Incra-Miter-3000-Special-Edition/H7480?gclid=Cj0KCQiA04XxBRD5ARIsAGFygj-8PTfnQHp_q6gooiprZHMgVz30Axepjx1x2ijQbxzAh-yz2-stPdIaAnwhEALw_wcB Or for the same $300 the 5000, https://www.rockler.com/incra-miter-5000-sled
  5. Marc started this forum many boards ago, but now sticks pretty much to his own site, www.thewoodwhisperer.com. Most here would consider his advice to be solid. If memory serves he has one or two videos on making a sled which you should be able to find with the site search function.
  6. Have you checked The Woodwhisperer site, too?
  7. Felder has an excellent slider and they also just came out with a flesh reacting safety system that does not damage the blade and can be reset in a minute. I am not in your league, but I would definetly give their product a look.
  8. So I spent yesterday setting up the SawStop I bought last summer at the estate sale. It needed a few taps and tweaks, but most everything checked out. So last night I used it to cut down some 2' x 4' plywood panels. I was struck by the fact that I don't think I've cut anything on a TS in a few decades, and secondly that I didn't feel real comfortable cutting the unwieldy panels. I certainly wasn't getting straight cuts. Checking TWW I see Marc recommends this video: https://passionforwood.com/woodworking/dvds-tablesaw/ Care to share any thoughts?
  9. I'm guessing we'll have to wait for @MJC to buy one .
  10. Federal Style. Complete with stringing and inlays. But if I could magically make just one piece of furniture it would be a Goddard and Townsend block and shell desk.
  11. Yes full on OCD: some things go in blue drawers and some things in red drawers.
  12. I had to try multiple times to get the post to "submit" due to what I think was a slow server, but I only saw one copy post.
  13. So how many or how few thousandths would be small enough to ignore?
  14. Sounds like I should keep two machines connected at a time.
  15. So I'm using a dial indicator and a purpose specific mount that rides in the miter slot. Measuring from the left miter slot the back of my table saw blade measures 4 thousandths toward saw right. Measuring from the right miter slot the deviation is 6 thousandths to saw right. I'm willing to ignore the 2 thou difference in the measurements and call it 5 thou. But is that enough of an error that I should try to correct the alignment. I now Marc is fairly tollerant in his setup video, but what about you guys? It is a SawStop ICS, so left tilt with extension table to the right.
  16. @Chestnut, I recall somewhere else on the forum you mentioned that load on the motor was decreased if the airflow was decreased. Something about once a vacuum was created there was less load on the impeller. So I am interested in the above statement. The P-Flux comes with an 8" intake and a removable manifold with three 4" intakes. Since I only use one machine at a time I've tended to use one of the 4" ports and keep the other two capped. But I've always wondered if this was the "best" arrangement. Based on your earlier comment I don't think I'm overloading the motor, and I'm probably getting the largest possible pressure gradient, but how about overall airflow (CFM) and separation?
  17. Ceiling height is 7 feet under the I-beam which is the lowest point, otherwise 8 feet in the rest of the space. The DC is the Laguna P-Flux 3 (3HP, 240V). It comes on casters and it rolls easily in my space, including across the expansion joints. I do not, however, move it much unless re-arranging the space (that is its third parking spot) or I have to get at the sump pump. So my goal was moveable, not portable. I am not saying that the P-Flux is perfect. I have had it for a few years now and when I made the purchase it was the best solution for me and my space. I went with 3HP so I would have power to waste knowing I was going to use flex hose. However, since I bought it, Oneida has come up with some other offerings that are not so "vertically demanding" and that are moveable. I would definitely look at those and also see what Clear View is making these days. My understanding is that the cone of a cyclone is optimally 11 degrees which makes it rather tall. By the time you add a dust bin, impeller and motor the entire unit gets quite tall. The P-flux and other short cone units are less tall, but at the expense of a less optimal (and efficient) cyclone geometry.
  18. Everything I've done is with flex hose, but one could use some sections of smooth pipe, especially for a long run to the other side of the shop. I have five machines using dust collection and all but 1 are connected with the flex on the floor, which is not generally underfoot when the machine is in use, and disconnected and put aside when the machine is not in use. The flex going to the lathe (which is also the machine farthest from the DC) is hung from the ceiling to keep it out of the way. I am principly a turner, so this hose is connected most of the time. Like you, down the road (and probably in a future shop) I might put in smooth pipe, but for now I am too lazy. Also I don't move the DC around, but I do want to be able to rearrange all the equipment easily. I do move the router table to use it and the DC to get at the sump pump.
  19. I liked it so much (and filled the drawers so quickly) I decided to buy another one. This is the 5 drawer model. It's a little taller and deeper, but the drawers are an inch narrower. Quality is still good, but a notch down from the red one. There were a couple of minor imperfections in the paint and the pieces needed a little encouragement to line up, but not bad. These drawers have mechanical latches rather than detents in the slide mechanism like the red one, and the latches are not quite aligned. Nothing a little filling couldn't fix, but I'd rather not have the latches in the first place.
  20. As Kev pointed out having to move and connect a portable DC will be an inducement to skip the DC for that one quick cut. Particularly if you have to climb behind a machine and hook up the hose. Still I understand the need for flexibility and mobility in the workshop. I don't move my tools often, but everything in my shop, even the workbench, is mobile. The solution I went with was to run flex hose from each machine to the DC using Rockler's quick connect system. So all I have to do is walk over to where the DC is parked and hook up the proper hose. The hose and connectors were expensive and flex hose isn't as good straight pipe, but these were compromises that worked for me. By the way, the P-Flux was my choice because at the time of purchase it had the deepest cone in a unit that would still fit under the low point of my basement shop.
  21. Is there a reason you are looking at short cones? I seem to recall you mentioned in another post that you have 11 foot ceilings.
  22. Mark J

    Hello from KC area

    Ditto the above. If you check everyone's profile you're gonna find that we all started sometime. And if you look at the questions being asked you're gonna find they are often being asked by someone who is "experienced".
  23. You could use double sided tape or hot glue, but in this case the template and work piece are screwed together. And yes it cut straight despite the thickness. I use this setup to cut back the sides of pieces that I turn. So I start with a square block mounted on the lathe with a screw chuck. I turn the outer contour and then I want to cut into each of the four sides and I want each cut to come out the same. Since the piece already has a screw hole from the chuck I use this to attach the template. That way I can rotate each face into place in turn and cut each the same.
  24. I think you're absolutely right. On sale this was about $160. As to the drawer locks the simplest fix is just not to close them all the way. The lid still shuts, but the lock doesn't engage.
  25. @JohnG, they're on sale this weekend, but even at regular price I think they're a good deal.