Mark J

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Everything posted by Mark J

  1. Drill press is a pretty simple machine. All it has to do is spin the bit and take it up and down. Like Chet said, bring a dial indicator. Grab a piece of 2 by and a drill bit you know is straight and sharp. See if the chuck holds the bit and spins it reasonably straight and the quill goes up and down easily and then drill some holes. But for 30 bucks it's not a huge risk. The motor's got to be worth something.
  2. Can you elaborate? What is teak guard?
  3. I haven't much to add to the above discussion. The easywoodworkingdesign.com mentioned in the post above sounds interesting, but I haven't laid eyes on it. Since starting this thread I have begun using Fusion 360 in addition to Sketchup. Taking into consideration the tutorials available for both, and my complete lack of any CAD background, I find F360 more difficult to use/understand, and I have only achieved the least mastery of it. If I were designing a piece of furniture I would prefer to use Sketchup, but for designing the turned objects I make, I use F360 because it can draw true circles where circles in Sketchup are actually polygons. So I think it depends on what you're gonna do and what training and experience you can call upon. For Sketchup there is @Bob Lang 's excellent interactive ebook. I wish there was a community college course on F360.
  4. And the smiles you received are no surprise. Came out beautiful.
  5. Tom, can you explain how you did the "reverse roll"? Did you "wind" the tape back up on the roll? I would have thought you'd have torn off the strip after taping an edge.
  6. I've always been curious how those chain drives perform over time. Even though the opening is on the bottom it looks like it will collect a lot of sawdust.
  7. Good video. My solution to blotching is to never apply a color coat. It is interesting to see, though, that the clear coat also benefited.
  8. Mark J

    Hijack!

    That's what I've been hearing on the news. Now if the price of cars would follow suit....
  9. Mark J

    Bees!

    so @JohnG, how are your bees doing?
  10. Well, and then you would of had to turn some chess pieces, too.
  11. Considering moving costs you made more than a couple of bucks on the Rigid.
  12. Should be able to sell the Rigid for a couple of bucks, too.
  13. Mark J

    Hijack!

    I'm thinking that's going to turn out to be a once in a lifetime find. Let us know what they look like when you get them.
  14. Or you could just leave it natural. All wood is biodegradable, but teak will last a long time outside.
  15. We really need a "jealous" emoji.
  16. Absolutely bar none, the dustiest thing in my workshop is the dust collector. I'm guessing that's why it is so named.
  17. Accumulates fine dust that's easily dislodged... Sounds like you'll need a dust mask in your DC room. Would there be any point in, or way to, ground the panels?
  18. Yes that photo is along the lines of what wtnhighlander is suggesting. I think template routing is a good solution. If you go with the drill bit approach, then Coop's idea looks good to me. You could use either a hole saw or Forstner with this method, but as the owner of a 3" Forstner I have to say it's next to impossible for me to drive with either lathe or drill press as the bit just spins in the chucks no matter how tight I make it. I see a couple of keys to success with drilling. First is to use a drill press and second have the hole's center within the jig marerial as Coop did. I would also offer this suggestion for modification. Make the jig thicker than the working stock. That way either bit you use will be partially guided as the asymmetric cut is started.
  19. I think you will find that a Forstner will not perform well in this application. The point wants to be fully engaged in wood or the bit will walk. And a 3" Forstner is a BIG bit so you can expect that "walking" to be forceful and with purpose. Indeed you may find (as I have) that it is difficult to drive a 3" Forstner as it keeps slipping in the chuck. Could you drill a three inch hole in a larger piece of wood then saw the circle in quarters to create 4 pieces at once. Your quarter circles will be a trice small due to the saw kerf, but I doubt it would be noticable.
  20. Since my previous post I have learned a little bit more about the Osmo products. First there is now a USA customer service number (previously you had to reach out to Osmo Canada). So I have this from Osmo USA: The only difference between Top Coat and Polyx-Oil is that Top Coat is lower viscosity (contains more solvent I think). Top Coat is certified food safe in Europe, but Polyx was not submitted to the certification process. The process is very expensive and has to be done for every SKU number, so ever formulation and every can size. Top Coat has way fewer SKU's then Polyx-oil so Osmo only submitted Top Coat for review. Maybe that info helps someone.
  21. Nice work! I always thought sugar maple was hard maple and all the others, like red and silver were soft maples?
  22. My guess is that flakes of rust are a bad sign, but I don't know how bad or how imminent. Does a big tank like that have any kind of inspection port?
  23. Yes, I believe you can. I have the 1000HD and the miter guage can ride directly in the saw's miter slot or, as in my case, attach to the sled. Why not give Incra a call to be sure, before you shell out some bucks. By the way, good to see you on the forum again.
  24. Mark J

    Ooo! Ooo!

    He was making reference to a TV commercial.