Mark J

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Everything posted by Mark J

  1. Good show, and good idea. I like that the boards are stacked edge out so ther's no "bottom of the pile" to get lost in.
  2. Mark J

    Baby on board!

    Actually, Mick, I'd like to know more on how you acomplished that step. When I have done it in my shop I have attached the top of the machine to a hoist and lifted only to find the bottom of the machine start sliding away. I see a srap running to the top of your saw, but is that a mover I see lurking in the back of one of the photos?
  3. Mark J

    Baby on board!

    Congratulations!! When are you passing out the cigars?
  4. @Bmac's longboard build makes me wonder if this might be a good application for a few layers of fiberglass cloth and resin?
  5. I built that rack a few years ago (there's a post about it on here somewhere), but like everything in your shop it evolves over time. I didn't have the Woodpeckers stuff when I built the rack, but they found a safe home behind the clamps. I picked up the drill set one day for some can't pass it up price. They then proceeded to get moved from one work surface to another because I had no shelf or drawer for them. One day I realized the drills have these goofball belt clips** and I just happen to have a ton of picture hanging wire and voila storage was born. The thing with the clamps is that the first thing I'm going to do when I take one off the wall is flip the head down, because the next thing I do is put the clamp on the floor standing on the clamp head. So I'm a step ahead, and the Jorgy's don't slide down and smack my hand. **belt clips, really? Like my pants were staying up too much and I really need to hang 5 pounds of drill on my belt to keep them down.
  6. OK problem solved, but I was already writing this so you get to read it anyway. I just came back a two day carving class, so of course now I'm an expert, right. But here's a secret I did learn, carvers carve woods that are easy to carve, like basswood. There is some overlap with furniture woods, e.g. butternut. So not sure what you made the lid out of, but it may by a more difficult wood, especially for a first foray. +1 to pyrography, or you might want to consider just using a pen and archival ink. Also +1 to the laser engraving idea and the idea of labeling a small piece that you would then inset into the lid**. What about a brass inset? **Weddings get delayed. We were originally set for November, but ended up marrying in April.
  7. If you can place a thin piece of cardboard or thick paper between the tool and the magnet this can help.
  8. I didn't like the single big slat so much, it looks too robust for a living room table. On the other hand I'm not sure that a three slat design will scale down very well either. The side panel might be something worth mocking up in card board. Another thought. That "different from the rest" design is very cool. Have you considered using that for your small table?
  9. But gee-dub, you've got your clamps upside down again.
  10. Nice work. Just have to ask, though, do you play?
  11. Welcome to the forum. It's great to have some one from New Zealand join in.
  12. You beat me to it, I thought it was Bob Lang. But now that you've posted we'll look forward to hearung more from you.
  13. Sorry @woodydixon I thought @Chip Sawdust would have seen your question by now, but maybe he hasn't passed by lately. By the way if you want to get someone's attention the best way is to type @followed immediately by their whole username, just as I did with yours. Then if they're "alert" they'll get an alert.
  14. Amazingly fast. I would have spent 10 hours making up scale drawings.
  15. Mark J


    Actually, Coop, I agree with you. When I can rely on 2D I prefer to just draw it. Sometimes what I'm thinking is too complicated for me to visualize withput 3D rendering.
  16. Oh something else that crossed my mind earlier, but I forgot to mention. You said your slab was 2 5/8" and you intended resawing to yield two 1 1/4" boards. I think that might be optimistic. You've only left yourself 1/8" for saw kerf and surfacing and that is assuming that 2 5/8" is the minimum thickness of the slab. You might get lucky, but just make sure your table design could tollerate a top that is 1 1/8" or 1 3/16" thick. And lastly, we'd all love to see some follow up on your project, with pictures of course.
  17. Couple of suggestions which are not mutually exclussive. Look around you (Google) for a: maker's space; woodworking school; woodworking club. Any and all of these are avenues likely to lead to the help you need.
  18. Hey, don't knock it till you've tried it, right? But you go first.
  19. Mark J


    Looks like I'm going to have to climb the learning curve on one of these programs. For Fusion I probably need an updated computer. My last foray into Fusion seemed to tax my 2012 laptop. @wtnhighlander any good training videos or books on how to use FreeCAD? Does it run on Windows 7?
  20. Mark J


    But is she easy? I mean is it easy, is it easy?
  21. Farming this job out to a woodworking shop seems like a good idea. Is the community bandsaw big enough? You'll want the resaw capacity to be 12". If you do go with using the community bandsaw consider buying and donating a new blade (appropriate for that model saw and your resawing task). Also if you don't know it to be well maintained, then you might want to watch a couple of videos (e.g. Sndgrass) and give the saw a look over yourself.
  22. Mark J


    I turn forms like these... ...and I would like to model them before I settle on a final design. This drawing was done in Sketchup, but takes a lot of labor. I create a 2D cross section of the side wall. "Follow me" this into a 3D shape. I then create a 3D squared block to represent the wood and superimpose the two models in exact alignment. The two models are joined with "intersect faces". Now I laboriously remove every line segment that is not part of both models. This takes a solid day of work. I am looking for a process that is easier and faster so that I can readily try small changes to the idea. Also Sketchup cannot draw a true curve, only polygons so I am left with lines and facets on the drawing which are distracting. This also means that instead of a single curved segment to remove I may have to delete 10 smaller straight segments. Fusion 360 does not seem to have an equivalent to the "intersect faces" function, hence my friend suggested Solidworks, but that price is too steep.
  23. Don't know if you saw, but he has some more info at his website: