Mark J

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Everything posted by Mark J

  1. Mark J

    Cordless Chainsaws

    I'm pretty impressed with that Stihl and the 20" oak. I don't know much about chainsaws, but even I thought it was a slow cut. But it did get to other side of the log, and that's the key point. I'm not running out to buy a chainsaw right now, but I would give something like that a try. That's an option, but with urban trees you can't always get your vehicle that close. It's worth considering, though.
  2. I do believe that the maker of a piece is always going to find some flaws in his or her own work. I'm honest with myself about these flaws.... But I'm not doing everybody else's work for them.
  3. It's like you went back in time. First time I called I looked down to see if I'd used a rotary dial phone.
  4. I see your point, pkineb, but I'm not sure that messing around with 6 screws would bug me as much as trying to get the dovetails just right. How fussy are those? But in general I like this idea.
  5. Call Titebond's customer service. There is a phone number on the bottle. They are very helpful.
  6. So you just have to replace the blue part?
  7. Welcome to the forum. With the exception of batteries I'm wondering if this is a real problem. Batteries should all be stored in a climate controlled environment. But say a drill press, not sure I see the risk of storing it cold. Now operating it in sub-zero is a concern. What sort of tools do you have?
  8. In my view that's the best way to handle yard work.
  9. Oh, Happy Father's Day, and welcome to the forum.
  10. I will await the contributions of more learned members of the forum, but that seems like a lot to me. I would have thought .005 would have been a more appropriate goal. You certainly don't need a feeler guage to see the discrepancy with your straight edge. But how accurate is the straight edge? One thing I have learned from hanging out here is that there is a difference between straight enough for a stair case or rafters and straight enough for joinery. So if that is an ordinary inexpensive carpenter's square it may not be accurate enough for this task. If that's a precision straight edge. Then yeah that table don't look flat.
  11. It's a very tiny fragment off a thin protrusion. I have a heat gun, but given the small size of the wood at the tip I think Gary has a point about burning. Most of the repair will be lost in final sanding and shaping. My gut is telling me to let it go.
  12. The answer is ... it doesn't work. The acetone didn't discolor the maple, but the little piece won't budge. I tried generous surface application with an artist's paintbrush and imersing the tip in a shallow pool of acetone for 5 minutes. The wood soaked it up generously, but the glue would not give up. I'll just have to live with it.
  13. HopefullyI can get some quick help with this one. I had a small piece chip out on a projeect I'm turning. I was able to find the fragment in the chips, but in re-attaching it with CA I muffed the alignment. I'd like to make it better, but I can live with it (a lot will be sanded off). So I don't want to make it worse. So questions: Can I reverse fully cured CA with acetone? Can I then use CA to re-attach? Will actone have negative effects on the wood or subsequent finishes? How would it be best to apply the acetone? Brush? Immerse?
  14. Never heard of it. You could check The Wood Database or Hobbit House for more info.
  15. The best way to control the cracks is to keep the humidity constant. Cracks will open or close as the wood swells and shrinks with changes in humidity. So note ther may be some cracks that are hairline in the summer, but which become more prominent in winter.
  16. My last car was a hybrid. I loved it. The first time I bought a sheet of Foamular I had the 4x8 sheet tied to my roof. It's only a couple of miles to the BORG and I drove home on the side sreets very slowly. If you go to HD they may be able to cut it down for you, though now I think they are charging a buck. How will you get your plywood home? Just thinking about it out loud, I don't see any reason why you couldn't have four 2' x 4' sections of foam board that you would use in various combinations to support your plywood. Of course I'm talking on the floor. Divided foam board is not going to work on saw horses.
  17. Not sure if I'm answering the question you're asking. I use the 2" thick Foamular insulation laid on the floor. This gives room for the saw teeth with plenty of margin for error and plenty of space to set up the cut. I can't remember if I saw Marc do it or not, but it's a pretty common approach. The foam board is re-useable many times. To manage and store the foam board more easily you can cut it into two 4x4 pieces and use them separately for smaller pieces of plywood or together for a full sheet.
  18. (That picture I will never forget) To learn about handplanes check out the book by Chris Schwarz (but first check my spelling).
  19. Enjoy it as is. And maybe where it is. Don't handle it or move it more than you need to. Humidity changes may open or close a crack, but the crack will never "heal". They are what they are--part of the charm.
  20. Agree with DrZ. You can't post a video directly, but you can put it on YouTube, then include a link.
  21. What I find unnecessarily aggravating is the placement of the drain valve on my pancake. I get that its at the periphery of the tank so you can reach it, but where it's placed I have to balance the whole thing on one leg to get the water out. Next compressor will definitely be quieter and have a thoughtfully placed drain valve.
  22. Oddly enough, so was I just thinking about @wdwerker, too. @..Kev as Admin you wouldn't have any info suitable for public knowledge would you? I've thought about going all metric, too. But it's harder to find the measuring tools in the US, and it's like doing your woodworking in latin, you're forever translating. I did buy one of those half and half tapes, but it's not my favorite.
  23. It is very appealing. Any information on how permenant this color is? My curiosity is that reduction and oxidation reactions are usually reversible. Lye is a reducing agent while the pieces will be in the air exposed to planty of sunlight.
  24. So I got this email last night regarding one of the club members. His compressor tank failed explosively. He sustained injuries that were not life threatening, but required hospital treatment. There was no information as to the age or condition of the compressor. I can't think this is very common, but apparently it is "a thing". Not really sure how one protects against this other than to decompress and drain the tank regularly. Might be worth siting the compressor at some distance from the work area or behind something heavy.
  25. I've never really measured my tape measure. I suppose I should. The inaccuracy makes sense when I think about it, but it would be good to know how much you're lookin' at. I think just intuitively I've been following at least some of the practices that others have described above, but this might explain the occaisional strange event that has occurred.