Mark J

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Everything posted by Mark J

  1. Mark J

    Darrell Peart is in the House!!

    And here a tool to make tools!
  2. Mark J

    Hand tool cabinet in maple

    Okay, as long as we're over thinking this, do the slots need dividers? If the planes will sit down nicely with each other (i.e. not fall over) then loosing the dividers gives you some more space. If the planes need lateral support to stay in place then maybe some other method such as pegs which could be re-positioned. I'm just thinking that these are the planes you have now, there could be others in your future and some of your current planes may move on to other workshops.
  3. Mark J

    Hand tool cabinet in maple

    Why not make some spaces wider and some narrower?
  4. Mark J

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    I would imagine high fives are out, too.
  5. Mark J

    Fusion 360 tutorials

    Any suggestions for Fusion 360 tutorials? I downloaded the free hobby version last night and have been struggling to get started with it. I have tried some tutorials supplied by Autodesk (Matt Perez) and an independent You Tube from Lars Christiansen and these have not been helpful.
  6. Mark J

    Fusion 360 tutorials

    I was able to draw out the jig I was trying to model. It took a few tries as I stumbled and fell up the learning curve. I'm no expert and I'm sure I've forgotten some, but I count that day a success.
  7. Mark J

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    Yeah, but we still don't have to be happy about it.
  8. Mark J

    Need help with picking plywood

    And make sure you are looking at baltic birch plywood. There is such a thing as birch plywood, which confused me for a time. I mention this because BB is more commonly found in 5 x 5 sheets although I can get it in 4 x 8.
  9. Mark J

    Northern Woods Exhibition

    I get that. I submitted one of my pieces to an American Assoc. of Woodturners competition. I figured for the small entry fee I'd find out what the rejection letter looked like -- they could have done better .
  10. Mark J

    Charles Neil Finishing class

    Sorry, I don't know where to get Blotch Control. You might try a gel stain like the Bartley product line. This is a gel polyurethane varnish with pigments.
  11. Mark J

    Northern Woods Exhibition

    Like Rick says. Are there categories to the competition like large, small, carved, turned, etc?
  12. Mark J

    Darrell Peart is in the House!!

    That's going to be a very exciting weekend.
  13. Mark J

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    Maybe it was shot by somebody famous. That would raise the value.
  14. Mark J

    Gold Accented Bowl

    Marcia wants me to tell all of you "thanks". It's pretty cool having something like this that we both do. She's definitely not as in to it as I am, but enough that she understands what I'm doing and sometimes I even get a helpful suggestion. Doesn't hurt that it's a shared interest when I want to buy something, either.
  15. This is a bowl that my wife, Marcia, made. It's made form two pieces of Khaya (African mahogany) sandwiching a thin piece of zebra wood. The rim and stem are accented with Inca Gold Gilder's Paste. The design and work are her own. I consulted on the project, but surprisingly little. Don't know about you all, but I was impressed.
  16. I finally got around to putting together and setting up this bandsaw this weekend, and I wanted to share some initial observations. I haven't used it significantly so I won't make this an in depth review. Like any big power tool the assembly seriously benefits from a second strong set of hands (which is one of the reasons I waited so long to unbox this, that and I was busy doing other things that didn't require cutting anything). Note to manufacturers, when you are planning the packaging it wouldn't be a bad thing if some more assembly was required. A larger number of smaller, and hence easier to assemble, pieces would be appreciated. A lifting point at the top of the machine wouldn't go unused, either. Aside from the mass, the assembly was easy. The saw mounts to the base, the cast iron table mounts to the trunnions and those are the major steps. The saw includes a blade which is already mounted and curiously shipped under tension. The box included all of the metric allen wrenches needed, except for 4 mm, but frankly if you have any power tools made this century you need a set of metric allens so pick one up next time you're at the True Value. I think including the tools was a nice gesture. The instructions were relatively clear and easy to follow (for this day and age). One suggestion I would make is to postpone mounting the table until you have set up the blade and blade guides. Although doable, it is difficult to make the lower guide adjustments from under the table, and while you will have to make these adjustments from under the table in the future, it is nice to be able to see what you are doing the first time and get familiar with the under table arrangement. Also I recommend you review the Snodgrass bandsaw setup videos before you set up your blade. I set up using the factory instructions, but I like Snodgrass' approach better, so now I get to squirm under the table a second time. By the way there is not a lot of difference, mostly where on the wheel he centers the blade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/best-way-set-bandsaw/ When I mounted the table I had to shift it all the way to one side to get it aligned. But it is aligned and I don't wish for more travel, so...OK. I had to file the miter slots at the leading edge of the table. There were burrs that impeded the travel of the miter gauge, certainly not a big deal, but what? they don't have files in China? A bigger beef is the blade guard. It goes down just fine, but jams on the way up. Jiggle it and it continues up, but jams a second time, jiggle and it continues to the top of its travel. The problem is repeatable. After investigating here's what I discovered. It's a stupid design. The orange guard sits loosely in the machine (intentionally). As it is elevated from its lowest point it snags on a couple of internal structures. Here's some pictures: The guard is intentionally able to move a little. But it then snags on this raised area of the rack and pinion housing. And also snags on this screw. Jiggling it will free the guard up, but here is a simple solution. I just put in a simple shim anchored with a piece of packaging tape. Solved both snag points. Now the guard goes up and down fine. Again this is no biggy, a simple solution with easily at hand materials, but apparently that Chinese tool box that has no files has no shims in it either. Lastly, once we had it assembled and on the Portamate mobile base it wobbled. I don't know if this was the fault of the mobile base or the machine base, but again pop in a shim and done. I think these "problems" were minor, so I am pleased with what went together this weekend. As far as performance, I cut through a two inch piece of poplar so I can attest that it will cut through two inches of poplar. Oh one other thing. It has a tensioning lever, and I have been given to understand that running a bandsaw with a detensioned blade is a badness, so I put a bicycle reflector on the tensioning handle to call my attention to its position.
  17. Mark J

    Jet JWBS-14SFX 14 inch bandsaw

    Thanks, Coop, but all's well for me now. lui_b seems to be having some difficulties.
  18. Mark J

    Another Broken Bandsaw Blade

    Did you ask for a 1/2" blade?
  19. Mark J

    Blister Button Cure

    I was griping about the foolishness of blister type buttons on a woodturning forum when one of the members wrote back: "Hi,For all who suffer from "Blister Button Switches," there is a reprieve. My X-wife is blind and uses numerous appliances, etc. that have these cursed switches. But, the blind community has long used small, self-adhesive plastic pieces called "Bump Dots" which allows them to both locate and actuate the appropriate switch(es) on said appliances. They are relatively soft. come in various sizes and colors and are available on Amazon, Blindaccessories markets, and probably in many department and craft stores as well." For those interested I was able to find these on the shelf at Bed Bath and Beyond as well as at various on line suppliers, also check under the name "bumpers". They are the little plastic buttons glued to the iside of a cabinet door that keep it from banging. You can buy a variety pack and try the buttons on your switch before removing the adhesive backing. The fat round ones are easiest to feel, but were not flexible enough to acctuate my switches. The soft flat ones seemed to work best.
  20. Mark J

    Blister Button Cure

    @derekcohen pursuant to our conversation in your other thread: I used the flat round bump stops sized to match the blister. They work well and are definitely worth doing. I originally tried using a larger one for the stop button, but there were more "misses" than with the smaller one, so I replaced it. They've been on there for a few projects and appear secure. I still have a paddle switch interposed on the power cord which I still think is a good idea--even though I keep hitting it by accident.
  21. Mark J

    Hammer K3 - off switch modification

    @derekcohen speaking of crappy on-off switches, I put bump dots on the blister buttons on the Nova lathe and that's been a big improvement.
  22. Mark J

    Hammer K3 - off switch modification

    Is the double sided tape a temporary solution?
  23. Mark J

    Exposed, loose-tenon joinery

    Congratulations on a successful project.
  24. Mark J

    West Systems maintenance

    What is this stuff usually used for?
  25. Mark J

    New storage shed

    ...and that would make it hard to change the batteries. So I was right, right!?