Mark J

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Everything posted by Mark J

  1. Mark J

    CNC Laser Cutters

    I am interested in exploring CNC laser cutters, if only theoretically at this juncture. I have done a little bit of laser work at a makers space, but unfortunately that is closing permenantly. I'm interested in etching and/or cutting both acrylic and wood. So what's out there at a hobby level or even an upscale hobby level? I see adds for CNC routers with laser options at Rock-Craft, but are these toys or capable? How thick a piece of acrylic can you cut with these things?
  2. Do they have that Makita in a cordless?
  3. Agree, it depends a great deal on the accuracy you're trying to achieve in the cut angle and the surface smoothness you want. My SCMS is limited to a 4" deep cut and I'd like to be able to square up 6x6x6 blocks. So I explored the question of how to cut thicker pieces, searching the internet and at the IWF. I did not find anything better than a bandsaw, but cutting through a 6 inch long piece is a way different problem than cutting through a 6 foot piece. I am sure there are industrial solutions, in fact I did see a 14" radial arm saw--still gives me the willys. Probably nothing practical. Maybe some kind of router jig to flatten a rough cut end? Would it be possible to some how clamp the Pantorouter to the end of a beam? Or could the beam be stood up against the side of a raised porch or deck? Probably dumb ideas. Just thinking out loud.
  4. I would say the best time to buy a SawStop is when you see a used one go up for sale.
  5. Barbers and salons are supposed to open on Friday here. I can't wait, but I'm betting there will be lines and I won't be able to get in for several days.
  6. I was thinking it might be grain variation, too, but you're lookin' at it. Do you have any spare veneer on which you can experiment?
  7. When you tested your systems did you use any particular methodology?
  8. Out of curiosity what does anyone think about the Portamate router?
  9. I also happy to have the big Porter Cable in my Incra lift (made by Jessem), so I'm curious why that unit is not on Jessem's list. For unmounted work I have the Bosch 1617/1618 with fixed and plunge bases that I am also happy with. Caveat, I don't do nearly as much router work as others on this forum.
  10. A HSS bit will be made from a single piece of metal. With a carbide bit the cutting edges are made from separate pieces of tungsten carbide which are brazed onto a steel shank. Ditto on the template.
  11. And now for some real woodworking accessories. Unfortunately, I can't find a chuck adapter for the live center, which I also need. Robust and Oneway are both out of stock and the Robust "plants" is closed. Best Wood Tools hasn't returned my call.
  12. This is what my search found. Seems like a solid design.
  13. Mark J


    +1 on Woodpeckers. After that, probably a high end Starrett.
  14. It sounds like it's time for disassembly, but I'd talk to ajet before pulling out the wrenches.
  15. Looking at the latest pictures it looks like it draws/scribes two "parallel" arcs. i.e. The arcs have different radiuses, but the same center.
  16. Another option is just to rent a pickup from Home Depo, etc. You can rent by the hour and you do not need to make a purchase (besides the rental fee).
  17. Hey @pkinneb, ask your daughter if wearing masks is having any law enforcement implications. I bet it does.
  18. Well, 10 weeks down, starting 11. At this point all of my woodworking clubs and my wife's sewing clubs have tried virtual meetings on Zoom. It's better than nothing, but not really the same as meeting in person. And it's hard to practice social distancing--Zoom puts all those little boxes right next to each other.
  19. Mark J

    Drill bits

    I was going to suggest McMaster Carr, too. That's where I'd look for "quality", but I'm in the drill bits are consumable camp, so I usually buy a set from the hardware store that looks decent. As far as techniques, I have learned the hard way to always peck drill. Also a drill guide is simple to use and cheap.
  20. So it doesn't sound like there is much difference between the two products? How vigorously does one have to buff? From videos I've seen, including Marc's it looks like the buffing needs to be aggressive, i.e. by machine driven buffer. My pieces are small (hand held) and the finishing pretty much needs to be by hand, i.e. rag.