Al Capwn

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About Al Capwn

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    Journeyman Poster

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Antonio, TX
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture construction, cabinetry and technology and woodcraft fusion.

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  1. Always interesting to see what people listen to. Lately, 80s pop has been a guilty pleasure, so Genesis, Rick Astley, Depeche Mode and Wham! (among others) are in rotation on Spotify. Generally though, I'm a rock fan, with an emphasis on prog rock similar to @Llama. I like most all of it, with the exception of modern "bro" rock, aka Nickelback, Hinder, Buck Cherry, etc. Southern mullet rock: yes, bro rock: no. As for metal? Gotta be 80s "big hair" or power-metal for me. So that basically means bands along the lines of Rush, Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd, ZZ Top, Guns N Roses, Black Sabbath, Yes, Boston, Kansas, Soundgarden (RIP, Chris), Alice in Chains, Primus, Coheed & Cambria, Dragonforce, and Lost Horizon.
  2. @wtnhighlander - Ahh ok, I am presuming it works along the same principle as this router jig? I would absolutely be interested in seeing your contraption!
  3. Using your example, would it be easier to use a pair of dividers and a sector? Again, in certain applications, it is just "better" or at least more efficient to do the "hard" (really, basic) math, figure out what it is, set the table saw fence and cut it to size. In regards to metric vs. everything else, that is like Mac vs PC - everyone has a favorite and some are passionate about one over the other. They are both numbering systems that have advantages and disadvantages. The irony is that no matter the number, 99% of the time, most people don't really care - it is just going to be plugged into the tablesaw or CNC and cut. 23 5/16th (or 592.1375mm), set fence, cut piece. It is when performing computation, which system, in that given equation is easier to solve? To me the appeal of things like dividers and sectors is that the process is a constant, and works more in the realm of geometry and algebra rather than integer-based mathematics. It isn't that one is superior to the other, it is just my personal preference to remove as many variables that are easy to make mistakes. A / B = C vs. 27 / 7 = 3.85714285714
  4. I could see that; I haven't used the super long rods in the Veritas kit yet. Keeping that in mind, I'll save the Veritas set for the smaller work, and either make my own or get the Rockler kit for stuff over 36" if the rods get a little squirrely on me.
  5. @Janello - I do have a pair of digital calipers, and I should use them more to be perfectly honest. I just frequently forget about them. @wtnhighlander & @woodbutcher74 - Center finder sounds useful; is that something shop made or some whiz-bang gadget that someone sells nowadays? I was just thinking about this today "If I want to center a mortise quickly, say with a router, how would I go about finding the center quickly..." @micks - You know...that is actually pretty genius. I am sure I could have Google do the math for me as well. As a computer nerd I am not sure why I didn't think about that. In the cases where I must crunch numbers, I will try to keep that in mind. @K Cooper - Yeah, I uhh, do the same thing too. Especially with things like table legs. @Tom King - Makes sense, and I was thinking about that for finding the center points of locations (see above pondering in regards to centering a mortise). I figure I already have those for laying out things like dovetails, but they can do much more. I have been reading a bit of By Hound & Eye, and that is what also got me started thinking in terms of ratios (which then can be built out to scale). One of the tools they mentioned was a Sector, to be able to divide out parts evenly. Seems like a handy shop-built layout tool as well.
  6. Short Version: What tips/tricks/tools/jigs, etc. do you use to skip unnecessary math/measuring? Long Rambly Version: Ok, so I know that this may be controversial or somewhat unavoidable, but I am wanting to remove trivial math from my workflow when possible. What I mean by that is constantly having to do mental juggling with the imperial system to cut parts: I.e. "Width is 28 5/16th, but I have two dados with a depth of 1/4 each, so the shelf will need to be...blah blah blah..." I much prefer using referential measurements, geometry and ratios. I picked up the Veritas bar gauge, and so far that has been fantastic. Because I can accurately measure my existing dimensions (internal/external) and transfer them over as needed. Make a drawer box, measure the inside groove for the bottom, cut it out. Done. Or, when I was cutting out a mortise and tenon by hand, I just set the marking gauge into rough "3rds" and scribe out my mortise and matching tenon - done. I know that in some cases and circumstances, mucking about with measurements will always be needed, and I am not pitching my tape measure and adjustable squares anytime soon, but any "shortcuts" to "make these parts like (or fit) the other parts" without busting out a calculator would be welcome. I know of story sticks and bar gauges, but if there is anything else I am missing, I would love to hear it.
  7. I only own the 14" LANV, and like Dave, I have experienced the same problem with tensioning the blade. Looks like the 17" has a different tensioning mechanism? @TIODS might be able to chime in on that aspect. It seems to cut well - I put a Timberwolf resaw blade on it and that thing is pretty awesome. Haven't had any drift issues or bogging. It happily *zingzingzingzingzingzingzing*'s (that's my bandsaw impression) through the material. Fence is a cheap aluminum one, but it works OK. Incra it aint. I do regret not purchasing the riser block kit for the 14" to push the resaw size up to 12" - by default, if you have a board that is over 6" tall you are out of luck. Riser kit is about 80-90 bucks. I'd imagine the 17" will get you some more resaw capacity out of the gate.
  8. Hickory/Pecan has a very "rustic" look to it as well, but it is hard as nails. It grows in the South/South-East, so the price should be right too? Pretty much the polar opposite of workability though. I will let others chime in on their woes using it, because it has established a reputation of being a bear to work with. But it is hard, should be cheap and is rustic - just a fleeting thought. http://www.wood-database.com/western-red-cedar/ http://www.wood-database.com/pecan/ http://www.wood-database.com/pignut-hickory/
  9. @gee-dub - You magnificent madman, thank you for the picture dump and info, that helps a lot. Is there a secret for determining the curves/profile on this: I am a simple man at times, I am guessing that you determined the degree of the primary curve, used your bow-string-thang-a-mah-jig to trace that, measured down and traced that same arc to establish the width. For the "secondary" lift, did the same process with a different degree arc, and then sketched the offset? If the answer is "buy Darrell's book, he explains it best" I can also totally respect that too. Totally see where the pattern jigs come into play, both for consistency and precision. I'll make sure to make some of those when I feel I am ready to tackle this.
  10. Yep, I learn %1000 better from video than words and pictures alone. The blanket chest looks the most appealing, and from the cursory research, it looks like the cloudclift rail/drawer details are done via templates and a pattern bit. I know that William Ng was supposed to have a G&G Coffee table video out, but it doesn't look like it has been released yet?
  11. Perfect, I pinged him. He's only a Texas-sized stone's throw away from me.
  12. So one recent evening, I was talking with the Mrs. and showing furniture designs and discussing what styles/elements she liked. First, I showed her some Shaker furniture, and she decidedly hated that. She wasn't a fan of the "spindly" leg look. Fair enough, so I move on to Mission-style furniture. Nope, not a fan of the slats. Arts and Crafts was slightly better, but she was still mixed on some of the elements. So naturally, this led to Greene & Greene, which I figured would be a big no as well. Once she saw some of @darrellpeart Greene & Greene inspired designs, she was sold. Of course she would like G&G... Now I know @gee-dub has a most excellent G&G inspired piece, and I am far from being able to construct that, but I wanted to ask what practical resources are available to successfully implement some G&G elements? My main aspirations/goals would eventually be to create something akin to Mr. Peart's Aurora side table with the curved (cloud lift, I think it is called?) faceframe and drawer - in fact, I think there is a Popular Woodworking article on that piece specifically. Anyway, for those who have done up some G&G styled pieces, any practical advice to offer? Anything especially challenging or easier-than-it-looks? Just want to know how deep the water is before I end up diving in at some point.
  13. Welcome to the mad house! Lots of great knowledge to glean from here.
  14. So bad news is that the Ridgid 2900 / 2901 edge guide is discontinued... Good news is that the Porter Cable micro-adjustable edge guide for the 690 fits in. Thanks to Amazon, should be here tomorrow.
  15. Fair enough - is there an aftermarket one that soars high above the standard ones, or are they all more-or-less the same?