Al Capwn

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Al Capwn

  1. Always interesting to see what people listen to. Lately, 80s pop has been a guilty pleasure, so Genesis, Rick Astley, Depeche Mode and Wham! (among others) are in rotation on Spotify. Generally though, I'm a rock fan, with an emphasis on prog rock similar to @Llama. I like most all of it, with the exception of modern "bro" rock, aka Nickelback, Hinder, Buck Cherry, etc. Southern mullet rock: yes, bro rock: no. As for metal? Gotta be 80s "big hair" or power-metal for me. So that basically means bands along the lines of Rush, Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd, ZZ Top, Guns N Roses, Black Sabbath, Yes, Boston, Kansas, Soundgarden (RIP, Chris), Alice in Chains, Primus, Coheed & Cambria, Dragonforce, and Lost Horizon.
  2. @wtnhighlander - Ahh ok, I am presuming it works along the same principle as this router jig? I would absolutely be interested in seeing your contraption!
  3. Using your example, would it be easier to use a pair of dividers and a sector? Again, in certain applications, it is just "better" or at least more efficient to do the "hard" (really, basic) math, figure out what it is, set the table saw fence and cut it to size. In regards to metric vs. everything else, that is like Mac vs PC - everyone has a favorite and some are passionate about one over the other. They are both numbering systems that have advantages and disadvantages. The irony is that no matter the number, 99% of the time, most people don't really care - it is just going to be plugged into the tablesaw or CNC and cut. 23 5/16th (or 592.1375mm), set fence, cut piece. It is when performing computation, which system, in that given equation is easier to solve? To me the appeal of things like dividers and sectors is that the process is a constant, and works more in the realm of geometry and algebra rather than integer-based mathematics. It isn't that one is superior to the other, it is just my personal preference to remove as many variables that are easy to make mistakes. A / B = C vs. 27 / 7 = 3.85714285714
  4. I could see that; I haven't used the super long rods in the Veritas kit yet. Keeping that in mind, I'll save the Veritas set for the smaller work, and either make my own or get the Rockler kit for stuff over 36" if the rods get a little squirrely on me.
  5. @Janello - I do have a pair of digital calipers, and I should use them more to be perfectly honest. I just frequently forget about them. @wtnhighlander & @woodbutcher74 - Center finder sounds useful; is that something shop made or some whiz-bang gadget that someone sells nowadays? I was just thinking about this today "If I want to center a mortise quickly, say with a router, how would I go about finding the center quickly..." @micks - You know...that is actually pretty genius. I am sure I could have Google do the math for me as well. As a computer nerd I am not sure why I didn't think about that. In the cases where I must crunch numbers, I will try to keep that in mind. @K Cooper - Yeah, I uhh, do the same thing too. Especially with things like table legs. @Tom King - Makes sense, and I was thinking about that for finding the center points of locations (see above pondering in regards to centering a mortise). I figure I already have those for laying out things like dovetails, but they can do much more. I have been reading a bit of By Hound & Eye, and that is what also got me started thinking in terms of ratios (which then can be built out to scale). One of the tools they mentioned was a Sector, to be able to divide out parts evenly. Seems like a handy shop-built layout tool as well.
  6. Short Version: What tips/tricks/tools/jigs, etc. do you use to skip unnecessary math/measuring? Long Rambly Version: Ok, so I know that this may be controversial or somewhat unavoidable, but I am wanting to remove trivial math from my workflow when possible. What I mean by that is constantly having to do mental juggling with the imperial system to cut parts: I.e. "Width is 28 5/16th, but I have two dados with a depth of 1/4 each, so the shelf will need to be...blah blah blah..." I much prefer using referential measurements, geometry and ratios. I picked up the Veritas bar gauge, and so far that has been fantastic. Because I can accurately measure my existing dimensions (internal/external) and transfer them over as needed. Make a drawer box, measure the inside groove for the bottom, cut it out. Done. Or, when I was cutting out a mortise and tenon by hand, I just set the marking gauge into rough "3rds" and scribe out my mortise and matching tenon - done. I know that in some cases and circumstances, mucking about with measurements will always be needed, and I am not pitching my tape measure and adjustable squares anytime soon, but any "shortcuts" to "make these parts like (or fit) the other parts" without busting out a calculator would be welcome. I know of story sticks and bar gauges, but if there is anything else I am missing, I would love to hear it.
  7. I only own the 14" LANV, and like Dave, I have experienced the same problem with tensioning the blade. Looks like the 17" has a different tensioning mechanism? @TIODS might be able to chime in on that aspect. It seems to cut well - I put a Timberwolf resaw blade on it and that thing is pretty awesome. Haven't had any drift issues or bogging. It happily *zingzingzingzingzingzingzing*'s (that's my bandsaw impression) through the material. Fence is a cheap aluminum one, but it works OK. Incra it aint. I do regret not purchasing the riser block kit for the 14" to push the resaw size up to 12" - by default, if you have a board that is over 6" tall you are out of luck. Riser kit is about 80-90 bucks. I'd imagine the 17" will get you some more resaw capacity out of the gate.
  8. Hickory/Pecan has a very "rustic" look to it as well, but it is hard as nails. It grows in the South/South-East, so the price should be right too? Pretty much the polar opposite of workability though. I will let others chime in on their woes using it, because it has established a reputation of being a bear to work with. But it is hard, should be cheap and is rustic - just a fleeting thought.
  9. @gee-dub - You magnificent madman, thank you for the picture dump and info, that helps a lot. Is there a secret for determining the curves/profile on this: I am a simple man at times, I am guessing that you determined the degree of the primary curve, used your bow-string-thang-a-mah-jig to trace that, measured down and traced that same arc to establish the width. For the "secondary" lift, did the same process with a different degree arc, and then sketched the offset? If the answer is "buy Darrell's book, he explains it best" I can also totally respect that too. Totally see where the pattern jigs come into play, both for consistency and precision. I'll make sure to make some of those when I feel I am ready to tackle this.
  10. Yep, I learn %1000 better from video than words and pictures alone. The blanket chest looks the most appealing, and from the cursory research, it looks like the cloudclift rail/drawer details are done via templates and a pattern bit. I know that William Ng was supposed to have a G&G Coffee table video out, but it doesn't look like it has been released yet?
  11. Perfect, I pinged him. He's only a Texas-sized stone's throw away from me.
  12. So one recent evening, I was talking with the Mrs. and showing furniture designs and discussing what styles/elements she liked. First, I showed her some Shaker furniture, and she decidedly hated that. She wasn't a fan of the "spindly" leg look. Fair enough, so I move on to Mission-style furniture. Nope, not a fan of the slats. Arts and Crafts was slightly better, but she was still mixed on some of the elements. So naturally, this led to Greene & Greene, which I figured would be a big no as well. Once she saw some of @darrellpeart Greene & Greene inspired designs, she was sold. Of course she would like G&G... Now I know @gee-dub has a most excellent G&G inspired piece, and I am far from being able to construct that, but I wanted to ask what practical resources are available to successfully implement some G&G elements? My main aspirations/goals would eventually be to create something akin to Mr. Peart's Aurora side table with the curved (cloud lift, I think it is called?) faceframe and drawer - in fact, I think there is a Popular Woodworking article on that piece specifically. Anyway, for those who have done up some G&G styled pieces, any practical advice to offer? Anything especially challenging or easier-than-it-looks? Just want to know how deep the water is before I end up diving in at some point.
  13. Welcome to the mad house! Lots of great knowledge to glean from here.
  14. So bad news is that the Ridgid 2900 / 2901 edge guide is discontinued... Good news is that the Porter Cable micro-adjustable edge guide for the 690 fits in. Thanks to Amazon, should be here tomorrow.
  15. Fair enough - is there an aftermarket one that soars high above the standard ones, or are they all more-or-less the same?
  16. Yeah, boards are a little wider, I am using the rest of my "not real wood" (SYP) before moving on to using primarily hardwoods from now on. I do now have a "new" plunge router, so I suppose I could use that, eh? My main concern was with the base being wider than the material, so it being a bit tippy. Clamping some "support blocks" to the sides to widen it sounds like the right idea. Guessing I need to find/puchase the edge guide, or is there a clever hack to get by? Also, not sure how to accomplish "stopped chamfers" very will with the hand plane, ala panel doors. On the short stiles, it was easy enough to go all the way through, but performing a mid chamfer wasn't going as well as I'd planned. Side note, you get credit for doing this the "hard way"; little voice in my head saying that I'll never improve if I never try. Get busy livin, or get busy dyin...
  17. So the Lee Valley bushing and bit is on the way, as well as a couple other LV goodies - you know, to save on shipping costs... This past weekend was spent on somewhat unrelated shop projects, namely constructing an upgraded crosscut sled and working on building a new router table. The Jessem benchtop router table I have isn't big enough to house the Triton (one of the horizontal cross members of the frame catches the adjustment knobs, preventing it from being lowered properly) so I am making a new cabinet for it, and salvaging the Jessem router table top. It also marks an important milestone - my first serious attempt at M&T joinery. *gasp* I know, a woodworker who hasn't done M&T?! Well, decided to remedy my Kreg Jig addiction and apply some real woodworking practice to use. I'm constructing the sides of my router table cabinet using frame and panel construction, so I decided I would M&T the rails/stiles. I used the router plane to route a 1/4" groove for the plywood panel, and used the Veritas bar gauge to measure the internal size the panel needed to be. Worked brilliantly. Cutting the tenons isn't so bad, but the mortises...not a big fan of doing it by hand or using the drill press/chisel method. This is one of those situations where a router table would be my preferred method, but I have to make the router table...I am noticing a lot of Catch 22s in woodworking. Alas, I digress: workbench! While I am waiting for the bit & bushing to come in, I think I will focus on adding a shelf to the bottom to act as plane/tool storage - unless there is some practical/conventional wisdom in not doing so.
  18. *looks at location with envy* Terrible saw. Waste of money. Now if you will excuse me, I need to rent a dispose of...a dryer... Just kidding - looks like a nice find. Google-fu shows like those saws retail 1200, and were on sale for 800-900 at some point. The only question I would have would be sourcing parts if worn or needed. If it was used in a cabinet shop, that probably means a lot more use than say a home hobbyist. Still probably a better value than quite a bit of the other listings on CL.
  19. I have the Spyderco Sharpmaker as well as an Edge Pro Apex knock-off. Both do a pretty good job; quality of the stones of the Spyderco Sharpmaker are higher, the kit is very portable, and it is quick and simple to setup for use. Downsides are that the grits are limited out of the box and you won't be able to reprofile an edge. It also relies on you maintaining a consistent vertical angle while sharpening. The cheap "Edge Pro Apex" clone stones that I have are meh. What I do like about the EPA is that you have a lot more consistent and precise control on setting the degree of a bevel. Pros are that you can really obtain a very keen edge, and even "make" your own stones for it to get whatever edge you want. Downsides are that the setup takes a bit longer, and you must set the jig/holder per knife. You can't really "batch" sharpen knives. If you decide on the EPA, either get the original Apex kit, or if purchasing the knock-off, use the saved cash to buy genuine stones (Shaptons/Chosera I hear are nice too). No experience with the scissor/chisel attachment for it; I would be interested about that as well.
  20. Ok, 10-4 on the LV bushing. I already have some forstner bits. I even think I have a 3/4" brad already, but not sure if the LV brad bit is married to the bushing. The logical part of me says that 3/4" is 3/4" and to save my pennies. The other part of me says, "Do you really want to make two orders if you are wrong". I mean, good excuse for collecting more tools I suppose. . .
  21. I know it is a small trek away, but Alamo Hardwoods deals in big pricey (read: figured) pieces of hardwoods. Might be worth a drive down? Dakota Hardwoods should have a few places, I believe there is one in Dallas, Austin and San Antonio as well. Not sure about the figured pieces there, but maybe worth a call at least?
  22. Ok. So, dog holes. I am sure this has been covered before in a million Roubo builds, but ... what do use to bore them? I've seen some giant 3/4" upspiral router bit to plunge them. A spade bit seems the most logical, short of blowout on the back. So my question to the millions; ok, dozens of you, who have built their benches: What was your chosen method to bore the dog holes?
  23. So, I uhh, have a 3D printer. If there a demand for custom fittings, I can see about printing some out. Have never tried it, but seems like an easy project and beats the price Rockler charges for that kit.
  24. If I could "do it all over again" I would buy a nice quality table saw and skip 90% or what a home center (Home Depot / Lowes) offers. Grizzly, Powermatic, and SawStop all make really nice table saws. Craigslist can be a gold mine for used equipment, if you want to go the used route. I think the Delta and Craftsman table saws are pretty common to see there. However, since space is a premium you may have to opt for a smaller contractor saw, rather than a full-blown cabinet saw. For the projects you listed, it sounds like a good sliding compound miter saw would be towards the higher of your priorities. I can't say I have much experience in that department, my non-sliding miter saw is just a cheap Ryobi. I have heard good things about the Bosch miter saws.
  25. One of the mistakes I made was not using a knife/marking gauge to score the lines. That severs the fibers, which aids in removing chip/tear out. Next rookie mistake I was making was chiseling directly on that line. Big no no. What happens is there is nowhere for the wood to go, so it ends up damaging your lines (which will be your walls) as the chisel pushes backwards (because there is no path of least resistance). This happens in dovetails and mortises, principle is the same. Are your chisels are sharp? Are you clearing out the bulk of the material inside of the mortise away from the edges?