Andy Wright

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Everything posted by Andy Wright

  1. pine is very prone to blowout from dados when you are cutting cross grain. Be sure you have a backer board, and consider clamping the backer board to the workpiece
  2. You can buy the 50s and cut down the bars to make them whatever size you want. I have done that with clamps before when long versions we're on sale cheaper than the short size I wanted
  3. I recently did this cabinet with Blum Aventos lifts. You use whatever higes you want, then add the appropriate lift to keep the door open. They have several styles, the lift force is adjustable, and they provide a good calculator to figure out which lift to buy
  4. My guess is that the construction adhesive will work, but you may want to rough up the edge of the melamine to help with the adhesion. FWIW, Titebond makes a special glue for melamine
  5. Has anyone darkened Bubinga in the sun? Any other tips to darken it (without stain? I have some Bubinga that I just bought last week and I am trying to get the color to match some older lumber.
  6. I weld, grind, and use a torch in my shop all of the time (but it sounds like I am the exception). My shop is a 40x20 and has a full compliment of wood tools to build fine furniture and I have enough space so that I can avoid welding on my wood workbench. I keep my metalworking to one corner of the shop (steel welding table, metal bandsaw, metal chopsaw, grinders, MIG & torch) I keep a fire extinguisher in the shop and pay attention to keeping anything that is flammable out of the immediate area where I am doing metal work. The most important thing to watch is welding around any comb
  7. I've never had a two slide sled, so maybe i am missing out?? Square is square no matter how you get there, and I have a 15 year old single track sled works just fine.
  8. I listened to Jimmy's voice over of the video today and here is an excerpt "I know that I'm not going to get a perfect top, but I'm not really going for perfection. I am just going for a cool table build that looks vintage and a little rustic.... I'm just having fun in my shop. I'm not saving babies, I'm not curing cancer, I'm just building a table so I don't take it all that serious."
  9. I think it depends on how thick your table top is and how you want for it to look. For example, if you are doing a 3/4" table top then 10" is a lot of unsupported overhang. For a 2" thick tabletop the 10" overhang shouldn't be an issue
  10. looking at 3:50 in the video that table top looks pretty damn flat. My bet is that the table will be fine and won't unexpectedly explode into a pile of splinters
  11. I have a coffee table made with that same material and across a 4' wide table it moves around 1/4 to 3/8" per year. My planks were reclaimed, so the table is rustic in style
  12. I paid $950 for one six months ago and it is an awesome machine. I was specifically looking for a DJ20 to upgrade my existing 8" jointer and it took me 12 months to find one at that price. I would take my 30 year old machine over a brand new grizzly any day of the week
  13. I have a jet and get good results. 1) sharp chisels 2) a good way to hold the stock in place - I use a feather board with a magswitch to hold it in place 3) make sure the chisel is square to the fence
  14. Your bed gets a lot of twisting force (especially if two adults are in the bed together...) so you need to account for those. It is not just downward force. Biscuits don't offer much structural strength so you need some additional reinforcement
  15. 1/4" tempered glass. It will need to be cut before it is tempered so not all shops have the ability to do it (most small shops order tempered glass precut to size). Here is an online source
  16. I've done it by raising the blade into the material, but I wouldn't recommend plunging the wood into cut (although I've seen it done many times by wood floor installers on a job site)
  17. We have one that was commercially made with 3/8" steel pins like these You could also easily make these from a 3/8" bolt with a long enough unthreaded section using a hacksaw and grinder
  18. I built one from Rockler plans for my wife a few years ago from cherry, and I am pretty sure that this is the same one. Biggest change is that the Rockler version has butt jointed drawers and wooden drawer slides (but that is easy to change - I did dovetailed drawers)
  19. I would consider using a router with a pattern bit and a straight edge board. It would allow you to take very light passes
  20. As others have said, the best way to do it is to build a box that converts the 220V down to a pair of 110V outlets. If you have a four prong outlet you can use one of these off the shelf adapters
  21. I would suggest starting with domestic species. Maple, cherry, and walnut are all friendly to work with and relatively inexpensive. I experiment with new woods on small projects or when I find it on sale (sometimes my hardwood dealer will have shorts for a good price)
  22. Here is a breakdown of the difference between cabinet/contractor/hybrid saws.
  23. I know a few people who tried to put off the shelf coatings over "old concrete", and all of them had problems with pealing over time.I f you pressure wash the concrete you may be able to get rid of the paint. As for my shop, it is far from "clean and crisp". I am more comfortable in "cluttered and vintage"
  24. For the oversize holes you would cut a bigger hole in the metal then use a pan head screw or a screw with a washer. Unless your wood slats are over 12" wide then you probably don't need to worry much about wood movement
  25. Since the table will be outdoors I would consider putting more cross braces under the top. It could even be flat strap instead of square tubing. My concern would be with the wood wanting to warp when it's exposed to the weather and having it secured to the metal frame in more places will help hold it flat