C Nelson

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About C Nelson

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  1. I called DeWalt today and they confirmed to me that the dust port is fixed and does not adjust. As I said the inability to attach a hose only occurs when I am cutting a 45 degree bevel which makes the downturned dust port impossible to use. The pictures that Chrisphr attached are interesting. I agree that is appears that the port is adjustable but it may be the camera angle.
  2. I recently bought a DeWalt DWS520 Track Saw. I am very happy with its performance save one issue. One of the features that made me buy it was the vacuum port. I planned to attach my wet-dry vacuum to it to vacuum up the saw dust. The problem is that the port faces down. Since I use the saw mostly to cut 45 degree bevels the port is essentially useless as even a smaller diameter hose won't fit between the vacuum port and the work piece. I am curious as to whether anyone has a workaround for this problem. Thank you
  3. Thanks for all the advice. I am the originator of this thread. I did speak to my building inspector and I do not need to install sheetrock or a vapor barrier over my studs (that already have insulation tucked in between). So at this stage I am trying to decide what to install. I'm scared off by the prospect of the thin paneling buckling or curling. I'm surprised to hear that it would do that. I wonder if I nailed the paneling every 16" on the studs whether it would still buckle? I did see some a few other options at my home center today. Any comments on the plusses and minuses
  4. I intend to install some inexpensive paneling in my dry basement. It is in an area I use for my workshop so I'm not real fussy about how it will look. My primary objective si to cover the studs and insulation. My intention is to install the paneling directly over the studs and nail or glue them. But I've read information online that unless the paneling is over ¼" it should be installed over sheetrock. I have no intention of also installing sheet rock. Why the requirement for sheetrock? Does it have something to do with buckling? Is there anything I can do to mitigate that? Is there a
  5. Thanks for the feedback. I'm convinced. time to look for a track saw.
  6. I'm in the market for a circular saw that has a dust collection port that will enable me to connect it to my shop vac. I would appreciate any advice on this matter. I don't want to build a box around the saw. I'd prefer a cordless if there is such a thing. Thanks
  7. I have to cut a lot of 3" holes in either ¾" plywood or pine 1 x stock. Since i already have other Milwaukee M12-volt cordless tools i am considering buying a Milwaukee cordless jig saw. Would that tool do the job or will I wish I had bought bigger 7 AMP corded jigsaw instead?
  8. Hello, I am planning to erect some paneling in my cellar. Currently, the 2 x 4 framing is exposed with insulation between. There are diagonal 1 x 2's throughout the cellar. They will get in the way of my [paneling. But I am reluctant to remove the 1 x 2's as I am concerned that they has a purpose that might involved something structural. The picture below is a section of the wall. Ignore the hanging tools. Note the diagonal 1 x 2. Can I remove these 1 x 2's that exist throughout my cellar?
  9. Wow! Incredible ideas......and so fast! I will do some experimenting and post back what I come up with. I did look around for parabolic winged brad-point bits. But I couldn't find any larger than about ⅝". Maybe its time to buy a bigger drill. I'm going to experiment with better quality hole saws and use the backer board. Thank you!
  10. Hello, I need to create hundreds of 1" to 2" holes in ¾" stock (plywood and lumber). I'm using an inexpensive hole saw but it leaves the wood rough which means I have to do a lot of sanding, because I want a very smooth surface. I will be using a ⅜" drill. I do not have a drill press. Is there a better solution for me? Forstner bit? or do more expensive hole saws create smoother cuts? Thank you!