ulloa_josh

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Everything posted by ulloa_josh

  1. Beechwood, I also heard that it has to be beer cans. Soda cans are too thin, won't work. Yup, uh huh. Anyway, I think I'm going to go with this stuff I found on amazon http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065UXD8/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
  2. Anyone have a link for the metal shim stock?
  3. Thanks for posting that link, I'm about to go through this with my 6" Ridgid jointer. Not looking forward to it but I think it needs to be done.
  4. I should have timed this better for safety week Appreciate the support and advice you all have given. One thing I keep thinking about is, why is there this blah attitude towards safety and best practices among the skilled trades. I realize I'm making a huge generalization as I've only worked in this one shop and saw a few others while handing out resumes. But if you're a shop owner, why not keep up on safe practices and educate yourself. Does anyone rip the seat belts out of their cars because they're a "pita and I've been driving with out'em for 20 years and never been in an accident."? Maybe a slippery slope I'm going down. Anyway, it's done, I'm not going back and tomorrow the search for employment begins again because there has to be something better.
  5. I understand the no guard/ splitter thing and I wouldn't be upset if that were the only issue. I think a decent owner would be willing to install something like the mj splitter. At the same time, I think a decent owner would want to run a safe shop and already know about such things. The lack of jointer was a concern because solid wood was being cut without a square edge. The 4pm-4am shift was a surprise. I thought I was just going in for a few hours to help with some staining. I'm going to call it a learning experience and I did learn a few things. I wasn't too impressed with the finished product but it was interesting to see how fast stuff can be made. Also, maybe woodworking as a career isn't for me. I enjoy it as a hobby and doing the occasional commissioned piece.
  6. Apologize if this belongs in the going pro section but thought it might be a good discussion for the community. Yesterday was my first day working in a professional cabinet shop and the realities/ observations were pretty shocking. Pretty much felt in danger every minute I was there, and have decided not to go back. Anyone here in the trade? Is this really what it's like? Some highlights from my shift that ran from 4pm to 4am because units had to be installed next day: Boss had 4 empty beer cans on desk when I walked in and continued to drink for remainder of night. No hearing protection, safety glasses or respirators No guard or splitter on table saw. Oh and ts was frequently left running! No jointer or planer. Way undersized dust collector for ts and wide belt sander. Free hand cutting on the ts, cutting boards on end (ie: tenons), cross cutting long narrow boards using the rip fence. Witnessed two kickbacks Not a single push stick in the place Boss nearly had spinning router bit to face contact when he plugged it in and switch was already on. I think that sums up most of it. The experience left a pretty bad taste in my mouth and the decision not to go back was especially hard because we need the income. So how many of you would have stuck around? Was this just a bad shop or typical of what's out there?
  7. Thanks for all the info. I've also heard back from others who have done outdoor projects with walnut and they're still going strong. Now just need the green light from the customer
  8. Wondering if anyone has real life experience using walnut for outdoor use. I realize there's tons of variables so here's the details of my situation. I'm in central california, our winters are wet, no snow but some freezing temps. and summer's hot (100+). I may be building several benches that will be outdoors and for public use. I'd like to use walnut slabs for the benches because the wood has special meaning to the location. I would finish the benches using one of the epifanes products and probably plan on doing some sort of annual maintenance. So any thoughts? Sound reasonable or should I stick with something like teak, white oak, or ? Thanks, Josh
  9. Just noticing that the shapton pro's are largely unavailable right now. Anyone know what's up? Hope it's just temporary.
  10. Not sure if this is the best place to post but wanted to give a heads up to anyone near Stockton, CA. If you have a chance, I highly recommend checking out The Woodsman hardwood lumber. I've done a small write up on my visit there which you can read here: http://www.sharpendw...2/the-woodsman/ I'm not affiliated with The Woodsman in any way, just felt like it was a worthy place to plug after my visit. The owner, Warren has had a rough few years and his wife has become increasingly ill from Alzheimer's. He's a great guy to talk to and he's got some beautiful wood at very reasonable prices. Thanks, Josh
  11. Do you have a spindle sander? That would be my first choice. Routing end grain like that on the router table has never worked out well for me. If you can somehow bring the router to the piece and do it handheld, that would be safer for both you and the cane Climb cutting while holding the router is doable, on a table is no good. Hopefully others will chime in. Good luck!
  12. YMMV, but I placed an order for two Jet 24"s on Amazon and they were listed as temp. out of stock with delivery after Dec. 25th. Maybe an hour later I got the email saying they'd shipped and will be here on Monday! The new(er) Bessey Revo's are nice too but I think the trigger offers a sight advantage.
  13. Definitely going for something simple on the pulls. Hard to what the biggest challenge was, it all went pretty smooth. This was my first guild build, and I think a large part of it going smooth was the excellent, step by step process Marc goes through in his videos. The knife hinges were especially easy after watching Marc do it. Routing the stopped dados for the shelf and divider was a little tricky.
  14. Plenty late but figured I'd post some pic's of my wall hanging cabinet. Learned a lot on this project and as you can see, still need to figure out what to do for pulls. Walnut for the case and Claro walnut for the door panels and drawer front. Thanks for checking it out!
  15. Ok, thanks! That's what I was thinking, just something to seal the wood and offer a little protection.
  16. I just completed something that's sort of like a handle and I'm depending on the natural texture of the wood to provide "grippiness." I'm probably just going to leave it as raw wood but wondering if it would be better to put some kind of finish on it or let it develop a natural patina from lots of hand contact. Curious to hear some other opinions/ ideas. Thanks!
  17. I guess I fall into the camp that would rather buy a $30-40 blade and replace as needed. I've never used a forrest so maybe I'm really missing out. I recently bought a ridgid combo blade (with the gold coating) and have been really happy with it. You get what you pay for but sometimes the sweet spot is in the midrange priced stuff
  18. I think the prefinishing is your best bet and if possible use blue tape on each corner. And just to be safe, use Marc's trick of waiting ~30 minutes to scrape off the glue. Takes some extra time to pre finish and tape but I think it saves a lot of head/ heart aches in the long run.
  19. I knew there had to be a better way. I searched hd a while back for a solution but will have to poke around some more for the contractor bags. If I can't find anything local, I'll try Wynn. Thanks for the help!
  20. Trying to find a source for 640 x 1000 mm bags for the collection drum on my grizzly cyclone. I just tried placing an order with grizzly but they are backordered until the end of June. I'll dig thru google but was hoping someone has a known good alternative. Thanks! Oh, if it helps any, it's the g0440 model.
  21. If anyone's interested I went ahead and tried out gf enduro var. It's a water based product that according to general finishes is supposed to resemble the look of an oil finish plus have great durability. The skateboard was a mix of mahogany, walnut, and maple and I'm pleased with the results. I didn't do a side by side with armor seal but really don't think there would be much difference as far as appearance in the wood. On the negative side, it really wasn't fun to apply, as it dries super fast. I thinned maybe 20% with water and wiped on as best I could. Maybe brushing or even spraying would work best? Anyway, it does seem to level itself out and I didn't notice any uneveness or streaking once fully dry. I think it's a good product, just hard to apply but that could largely be due to user error . Photo attached to check out for yourselves.
  22. Ok, this is a question I probably already know the answer to but curious to hear your thoughts. The skateboard is a longboard and will be used for casual riding, no tricks or grinding, etc. I assume something from Epithanes is the best choice for this and I plan to order some for future builds. For now though, I have two choices; Armor Seal which I love and use all the time or GF Enduro Var which I have not used but I think is supposed to be more durable. Which should I go with? Is Enduro Var really more durable? Thanks for the help. Josh
  23. I've always printed things to scale using regular 8.5x11 paper that ends up getting taped together. Tried doing this today and no matter what I do, it will only output the image fit to a single page. Any thoughts? I saw the "Big Image" post but I'm on a mac, so no luck there.
  24. After some more fiddling I think I've narrowed the problem to the top wheel. Measuring vibration with a dial indicator, I get maybe 0.001 running the saw with the bottom wheel only. Adding the blade and the top wheel into the equation, the indicator measures 0.005. The blade is new and not stock. Neither of the wheels appear to be out of round or warped, again measuring with the dial indicator, so I think it's just a matter of balancing? In any event, I'm a lot more familiar with my bandsaw now! Thanks for reading.
  25. I'll call rikon on Mon. but thought I might get help here in the meantime. This is the 18" model and there just seems to be a lot of vibration. Here's what I've tried so far: Flimsy mobile base removed = no change in vibration Ran with blade removed = less vibration but won't pass nickel test Checked both wheels for balance by spinning by hand and marking resting locations with white chalk (see pics). When checking the balance, I also noticed that the bottom wheel spun with less resistance than the top. No idea if this is normal or not. Any thoughts are appreciated. Not sure if I really have a problem or just over analyzing.