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About sjk

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    Journeyman Poster

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    Carnation, WA
  • Woodworking Interests
    designing & building furniture

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  1. You use different speeds based on the type of bit, size of bit and material you're drilling into. There are a ton of "drill press speed chart" available on the web. ("Drill bit speed" is another good search phrase)
  2. Have you seen the Renaissance Woodworker's "joinery bench"?
  3. I haven't gotten anything from them, so I can't give you firsthand experience. But I did a reverse lookup on the phone number and found
  4. I'd consider that a plus. I don't have my Rigid on a stand yet, and it seems that all I have to do is walk within five feet of the thing and it launches all those bits all over my shop. A minimum of two will roll under things so that it takes 20 minutes to get them recovered and my shop put back together. And then what do I do? I put the Rigid parts back in their little holder-notches so I can experience that joy again in the future. Every. Single. Time.
  5. Don't forget that you don't need the whole board to be flat, just the pieces you need. Say that you need an 18 inch chair leg. If you rough cut the leg from the board (say a 24 inch oversized piece), then you are only trying to straighten/flatten that 2 ft piece, which is much easier and will waste less material than straightening/flattening an 8 footer.
  6. I don't think we should lump SketchUp and CNC together. If we want to do something with the SketchUp subforum, I would suggest making it part of a Design subforum. (and then add in other CAD topics, drafting topics, design principles, etc.) I think there are enough folks using or curious about CNC (and lasers, etc) to warrant a space. The skill set, technique, troubleshooting, recommendations, etc are different enough that I think there's value in being able to find stuff more quickly. My $0.02
  7. Good call stopping when things didn't feel safe. That's always the right thing to do. Don't try to cut the full profile in one go. Lower your bit so that you're only taking a small bite, take a pass, raise the bit some, take another pass, etc until you get to your final profile.
  8. I'm also a member of the Hand Tool School, and this question comes up over there a bunch. A popular source is He's a hand tool woodworker who does a great job of restoring bits (and other tools).
  9. Great job on the bookshelf! Are the sections anchored to each other and the wall? What keeps it from tipping when someone is on the ladder?
  10. I'd say keep your planer, bandsaw and some form of dust collection. Milling a small amount by hand is fun and satisfying. Milling a lot by hand is suddenly having to train to compete in American Ninja Warrior next week. Like @RenaissanceWW's video posted by @SawDustB above shows, you can spot plane a board enough to run it through your planer and get great results. I don't think you *need* a jointer if space is at a premium. For flattening faces you can use the planer and a sled. For truing edges, a #7 or #8 and a little practice and you're good. Shannon had a video from his intermediate days of switching to hand tools, where he explained why he hung on to his bandsaw (hint, a lot of ripping becomes unfun for many people). He has since gotten rid of it (or at least moved it out of his shop and doesn't use it any more). And if you have a planer, a bandsaw and a bunch of smaller power tools (maybe even a router table), then dust collection is a must.
  11. When I added the camber roller to my kit, I also bought the narrow blade head (it was around when that head came out). I put the straight roller on the narrow blade head and the camber on the wide blade head. They stay that way like 95% of the time. The narrow blade head with straight roller gets used on chisels and plane blades that need square corners. The wide blade head with camber roller gets anything that gets anything with a camber or where I "clip" the corners. If I have a situation where I need to change things (skewed chisels where I don't want any camber, I'm looking at you), it's just 30 seconds to swap rollers. I've been very happy with this setup.
  12. The Paul Sellers video above is a good one, as is @Lester Burnham's advice about trying the existing blades. My rehabbed Stanley #4 with what appears to be an era appropriate blade works great.
  13. I have that model and am very happy with how it works. I still always use the poor dust collection that I have and a mask, but the Jet AFS does a great job cleaning the air in the shop afterwards. Mine is mounted near a side wall like @SplinteredDave, for exactly the same reason - to try to create a circular air flow. When I first got it, I made some cuts on the table saw without dust collection and then turned off all the lights in my shop except for a small task light. You could see tons of dust in the air. I turned on the Jet and checked back like 20 minutes later. Zero dust in the air. In my 3-car garage which is half-shop, with definitely sub-optimal air flow possibilities (lots of tall things in the garage, like my mobile clamp / lumber rack which effectively puts a wall in a weird place. I use the Jet AFS whenever I use power tools and use the timer to let it run afterwards. I use it before I apply any finish. I've noticed a real reduction in dust nibs in my finish. My dust collection setup is totally insufficient, so I had a lot more airborne junk than I should have. The Jet AFS cleans up afterwards, not during. I haven't had it long enough to have to change the filters yet.
  14. sjk

    Spring Joint

    In the current Popular Woodworking, there's an article by Christopher Schwarz on spring joints. He talks about how it causes the ends of the joint to be under compression and how that is reported to help with seasonal movement. Here's the description of the article from their website:
  15. Here's their links: