sjk

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Everything posted by sjk

  1. You use different speeds based on the type of bit, size of bit and material you're drilling into. There are a ton of "drill press speed chart" available on the web. ("Drill bit speed" is another good search phrase)
  2. Have you seen the Renaissance Woodworker's "joinery bench"? https://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/rww190-the-joinery-bench/
  3. I haven't gotten anything from them, so I can't give you firsthand experience. But I did a reverse lookup on the phone number and found https://www.equipmentsalesandsurplus.com/aboutus.asp
  4. Congrats Steve and not-Boozer!
  5. I'd consider that a plus. I don't have my Rigid on a stand yet, and it seems that all I have to do is walk within five feet of the thing and it launches all those bits all over my shop. A minimum of two will roll under things so that it takes 20 minutes to get them recovered and my shop put back together. And then what do I do? I put the Rigid parts back in their little holder-notches so I can experience that joy again in the future. Every. Single. Time.
  6. Don't forget that you don't need the whole board to be flat, just the pieces you need. Say that you need an 18 inch chair leg. If you rough cut the leg from the board (say a 24 inch oversized piece), then you are only trying to straighten/flatten that 2 ft piece, which is much easier and will waste less material than straightening/flattening an 8 footer.
  7. I don't think we should lump SketchUp and CNC together. If we want to do something with the SketchUp subforum, I would suggest making it part of a Design subforum. (and then add in other CAD topics, drafting topics, design principles, etc.) I think there are enough folks using or curious about CNC (and lasers, etc) to warrant a space. The skill set, technique, troubleshooting, recommendations, etc are different enough that I think there's value in being able to find stuff more quickly. My $0.02
  8. Good call stopping when things didn't feel safe. That's always the right thing to do. Don't try to cut the full profile in one go. Lower your bit so that you're only taking a small bite, take a pass, raise the bit some, take another pass, etc until you get to your final profile.
  9. I'm also a member of the Hand Tool School, and this question comes up over there a bunch. A popular source is http://www.grandpaslittlefarm.com/drillbits.html. He's a hand tool woodworker who does a great job of restoring bits (and other tools).
  10. Very sorry to hear of both of your losses. It's a very painful time for sure.
  11. Great job on the bookshelf! Are the sections anchored to each other and the wall? What keeps it from tipping when someone is on the ladder?
  12. I'd say keep your planer, bandsaw and some form of dust collection. Milling a small amount by hand is fun and satisfying. Milling a lot by hand is suddenly having to train to compete in American Ninja Warrior next week. Like @RenaissanceWW's video posted by @SawDustB above shows, you can spot plane a board enough to run it through your planer and get great results. I don't think you *need* a jointer if space is at a premium. For flattening faces you can use the planer and a sled. For truing edges, a #7 or #8 and a little practice and you're good. Shannon had a video from his intermediate days of switching to hand tools, where he explained why he hung on to his bandsaw (hint, a lot of ripping becomes unfun for many people). http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/neanderthals-apprentice/ He has since gotten rid of it (or at least moved it out of his shop and doesn't use it any more). And if you have a planer, a bandsaw and a bunch of smaller power tools (maybe even a router table), then dust collection is a must.
  13. With his known fondness for certain things, his new dog's name might be Miss Bubinga Festool Barkypants
  14. Very sorry to hear that Shane. Condolences to you and your family. 3 years is far too short.
  15. sjk

    Hijack!

    But will they bring a bass or a BCTW plane?
  16. sjk

    Hijack!

    Coop, it's all about supporting the fibers. You can work from the ends into the middle, that way they're supported. You can bevel/chamfer the edge and work from the middle to the edge taking light passes. (Who am I kidding, it's end grain, you're taking light passes already). You can clamp something against that edge and work off the edge. I generally work from the ends to the middle.
  17. When I added the camber roller to my kit, I also bought the narrow blade head (it was around when that head came out). I put the straight roller on the narrow blade head and the camber on the wide blade head. They stay that way like 95% of the time. The narrow blade head with straight roller gets used on chisels and plane blades that need square corners. The wide blade head with camber roller gets anything that gets anything with a camber or where I "clip" the corners. If I have a situation where I need to change things (skewed chisels where I don't want any camber, I'm looking at you), it's just 30 seconds to swap rollers. I've been very happy with this setup.
  18. The Paul Sellers video above is a good one, as is @Lester Burnham's advice about trying the existing blades. My rehabbed Stanley #4 with what appears to be an era appropriate blade works great.
  19. I have that model and am very happy with how it works. I still always use the poor dust collection that I have and a mask, but the Jet AFS does a great job cleaning the air in the shop afterwards. Mine is mounted near a side wall like @SplinteredDave, for exactly the same reason - to try to create a circular air flow. When I first got it, I made some cuts on the table saw without dust collection and then turned off all the lights in my shop except for a small task light. You could see tons of dust in the air. I turned on the Jet and checked back like 20 minutes later. Zero dust in the air. In my 3-car garage which is half-shop, with definitely sub-optimal air flow possibilities (lots of tall things in the garage, like my mobile clamp / lumber rack which effectively puts a wall in a weird place. I use the Jet AFS whenever I use power tools and use the timer to let it run afterwards. I use it before I apply any finish. I've noticed a real reduction in dust nibs in my finish. My dust collection setup is totally insufficient, so I had a lot more airborne junk than I should have. The Jet AFS cleans up afterwards, not during. I haven't had it long enough to have to change the filters yet.
  20. sjk

    Spring Joint

    In the current Popular Woodworking, there's an article by Christopher Schwarz on spring joints. He talks about how it causes the ends of the joint to be under compression and how that is reported to help with seasonal movement. Here's the description of the article from their website: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/how-why-of-spring-joints
  21. Here's their links: http://www.comptonlbr.com/ http://www.crosscutseattle.com/
  22. Derek, have you found a hardwood dealer yet? (other than Home Depot) You'll find much better selection and prices at places like Compton Lumber and Crosscut Hardwoods, both in Seattle.
  23. If you go the power tool route - don't forget the appropriate safety equipment (safety glasses for a scroll saw, full face shield for a lathe, hearing protection if you get a saws or routers, etc)
  24. you'll have to make the boxes bigger if they're going to be throwing their smartphones...
  25. I used to have a desk setup like that at work. It was 3 different pieces, the curved/triangular middle and then two squares on the sides. There was no front apron (this was heavy duty commercial furniture), and it was plenty sturdy. I'm sure it was some flavor of particle board covered by the thick grey laminate. It had a solid oak front edge, which I'm sure some designer thought would make us all love the desks. I frequently hit my knees on the supports under the pieces. If your friend is having you make this at an ergonomic height for him - be sure to measure the height of his legs when he's seated in the chair he's going to use. Having my old desk be three pieces meant I had two gaps that I regularly dealt with. I tended to work in the corner and towards the left side. It would have been better if there wasn't a gap there. The gap on the right side didn't phase me - I used that part of the desk for different tasks, so it was a shift for me, I didn't move back and forth from the middle to the right. If you decide to split the top - I'd suggest doing a similar split - keep the middle and one of the sides as one piece. Your friend's work habits could help decide which side could be the separable one. Make sure you can remove the top from the base. Several times coworkers and I had to move some desks around (in and out of offices with normal doors). Those things were heavy and didn't come apart. So it was always the "no, you pivot it around the door to YOUR left and lower it while I raise it and we should clear the doorknob and the desk center support" game. For the supports, you might look at cantilevered designs, with the posts in the back.